• 보존과학연구
• /
• s.34
• /
• pp.50-61
• /
• 2013

The Grave encapsulated by lime soil mixture were excavated with clothing and hemp shoes from the Choseon Dynasty in Gooam, Sacheon. Hemp shoes have wood in the center and their surroundings were made of complex materials including herbaceous ones but the front part was lost or became very fragile. We analyzed the hemp shoes and pre-test of consolidant for conservation treatment of hemp shoes. As a result of analyzing, three kinds of plants were identified. For hemp shoes, Oryza spp, hemp, and one kind of dicotyledones were used and it was analyzed that fabrics attached to the back of Dogaengi was cotton. Conservation methods for pre-test of consolidant, Polyethylene Glycol, Paraloid-B72, Dammar gum, Methyl Cellulose and Silicone resin was selected. The solution was sprayed twice in a 24-hour duration. Properties of consolidant was measured; color difference, glossiness difference, folding streangth and tensile streangth. By comparing the results, PEG was confirmed to the most suitable as consolidant. For the conservation treatment, cleaning and strengthening was conducted. For strengthening treatment, PEG 4000 was selected given that the shoes were made of complex materials. The PEG impregnation method was applied with the PEG 4000 concentration gradually changing from 5% to 80% for reinforcement. Then humidity- controlled drying in order to avoid any rapid environment change.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
• /
• v.31 no.1
• /
• pp.42-45
• /
• 2003

A Trichoderma sp. SO-571 producing cellulase was isolated from soil, and a pilot-scale cultivation and separation of cellulase were conducted. The cellulase activity was about 14.5 unit/ml after 112 hr of cultivation in a 301 fermenter containing 3.0% cellulose, 4.0% soybean powder, 3.0% wheat bran, 0.5% ($NH_4$)$_2$$SO_4$0.2% urea, 1.0% CSL, 0.5% $KH_2$PO$_4$, and 0.2% Tween 80. The cellulase was purified over 4.6 folds in three steps with 47.86% yield. The optimum pH of cellulase was pH 5.0 and optimum temperature was $60^{\circ}C$. To investigate the effect of the cellulase-treated cellulosic fabric, the weight loss was compared. The weight loss of denim treated with cellulase from Trichoderma sp.SO-571 was 2.9% and that with Celluclast 1.5L was 2.2%. In tencel treatement with enzyme, cellulase showed 0.7% higer weight loss than that with Celluclast 1.5L.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.263-268
• /
• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• 보존과학연구
• /
• s.6
• /
• pp.96-110
• /
• 1985

This report is briefly thied to introduce the kinds of clothes for the body of deceased and special features of remains in the era of the middle of Yidynasty found in Changheung IM's tomb, and some remarks related to the conservation treatment for shrouds as well. The contents of this report are summed up as follows:1. Included with the clothes of dead body of IM's clan were 2 pcs. Of woman's jacket, 2 pcs. of underpants, 1pcs. of single layered overcoat twithout cotton, 1pcs.of women's overcoat with a single layered thin cotton inside, women's socks, cushoned mattress, straw shoes and other hemp fabrics etc. By the observation of these remains, it is considered that they dressed the deceased with new cloth taken from the unsuals not prepared specially and stored beforehand for such as occasion as does it nowadays.2. As to the conservation treatment, the materials were comparatively good and so they employed general tank washing method with special neutrality liquid soap(made by Lab, of Household Products, Pacific R & D Center) for cleaning imbrued matrials on the clothes. After cleaning and drying naturally at a shade place, remains put into apaulowania tree box were fumigated by mixed gas (M. B. + E. O.) for prevention of damages from fungi and insects.3. Desirable environment control for scientific conservation of such kinds of cellulose textiles is to be illuminated at below 50Lux, temperature 16-18℃, relative humidity 45-60%($\pm$4%) and removed the dust. For the prevention of the damaging fungi and insects, it is desirable to fumigate by mixed gas (M.B.+E.O.) once a year.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.11-17
• /
• 1983

There have been two supposition that the decrement of fatty soil removal at high temperature was caused by surfactants and by the structure of fibers and Fabrics. To study the effect of temperature on the removal of fatty soil, the following variables were selected: Sodium n-alkylsulfates having various chain lengths of alkyl groups as surfactants, cotton and cuprammonium rayon as cellulose fibers having different fiber structure, and two types of soil having different melting points. Experiment was carried out with radiotagged soil and detergency was estimated by liquid scintillation counting. The results were as following: the detergency of tripalmitin on cotton was increased with elevating temperature up to $60\~70^{\circ}C$ and decreased above $70^{\circ}C$ regardless of alkyl chain length of sodium n-alkylsulfates. In distilled water without surfactant, the detergency of tripalmitin on cotton was also decreased above $70^{\circ}C$, but the detergency of tripalmitin on cuprammonium rayon was not decreased above $70^{\circ}C$. effects seemed to be caused by fiber structure. Though the melting point of mixture of tripalmitin and dodecane was lower than that of tripalmitin, the optimum and decrement temperature of detergency were not altered. Finally the results of this study were shown that the surfactant and characteristics of soil did not affect on the mode of detergency vs temperature, but the fiber structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.12
• /
• pp.1477-1485
• /
• 2011

Dyeability and colorfastness of the blended knits of cotton/rayon (40/60; C/R) and wool/tencel (10/90; W/T) are examined using the natural dyestuff ($Pinux^{TM}$) manufactured from Pinus radiata pine bark extract. In addition, pre-treatments (such as bleaching, mercerization and cationization) are performed to improve dyeability and colorfastness. The $Pinux^{TM}$ powder dyestuffs produced by Pinux Co., Ltd. are used as dyestuffs and their properties are examined for dyeing concentration (0.5-2% (owb)), dyeing time (30-120 minutes) and dyeing temperature (30-$90^{\circ}C$). Dyeability is evaluated with K/S value at 400nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength for $Pinux^{TM}$. The results show the dyeability of W/T sample containing protein fiber with $Pinux^{TM}$ is superior to all cellulose fiber C/R. A concentration of dyestuff greater than 1.5% (owb), dyeing time 120 minutes and dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ are the most optimized conditions. It shows that the dyeability of C/R and W/T samples are high in the condition of an acid-dyeing bath and that dyeability highly declined in alkaline bath due to the instability of the proanthocyanidin pigment. After analyzing the effect of bleaching, mercerizing and cationizing (as pre-treatments on dyeability) it was concluded that the dyeability of the C/R sample was enhanced by mercerization but no significant effect by cationization. However, the simultaneous treatment of cationizing and dyeing resulted in far improved dyeability compared to dyeing after cationizing pre-treatment. As for the W/T sample, the effect of cationization was more prominent than the C/R sample. Colorfastness to color changes in the control W/T sample was higher than that of C/R's level 1-2, and it increased to Level 2 when bleaching pre-treatment was given and when a simultaneous cationizing treatment was adopted to the dyeing process. Colorfastness to light in W/T control sample resulted in Level 3 and further increased to an excellent Level of 4 with bleaching and simultaneous cationizing during dyeing process.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.31 no.2
• /
• pp.161-172
• /
• 2023

In this study, natural dyeing using Polygonum tinctoria was performed with linen, ramie, and hemp, which are biodegradable cellulose fibers, considering environmental aspects. In particular, the impacts of alkali NaOH and reducing agent Na₂S₂O₄ were examined, and the possibilities of minimizing the use and reusing the dye were explored. The surface dye concentrations were found to be in the following order: hemp>linen>ramie. With the increase in all additives, the L^* value decreased, and the ⊿E and K/S values increased gradually. When Na₂S₂O₄ was 1g/L, the surface color of the dye appeared uniformly from the NaOH concentration of 0.4g/L (pH 10.84). When NaOH was 0.4g/L, the K/S values of linen and ramie increased rapidly after 0.4g/L of Na₂S₂O₄, and hemp maintained a stable color from 0.6g/L of Na₂S₂O₄. With the increase in the dye concentration from 1 to 6g/L, all the fibers were dyed uniformly. The K/S value increased or higher doubled upon repeated dyeing six times for 5 min than when dyed only once for 30 min. Therefore, the linen, ramie, and hemp fibers dyed repeatedly exhibited good washing, rubbing, and colorfastness to perspiration, which was rated between 4 and 4-5, and that to light was rated as 5. Moreover, no discoloration due to sunlight was observed. Finally, linen exhibited a bacterial reduction of 99.9%, thereby indicating its excellent antibacterial property.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.29 no.2
• /
• pp.161-170
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to find the reasonable plan for the restoration method through the practical repair of excavated costume. The minimal repair only without adding the physical force as far as possible after investigating the state of excavated costume has been progressed in case of excavated costume since it is already degraded and weak due to the characteristics of organic matter at the moment when it is excavated. Moreover, it has been restored as the following course; The restoration has been applied according to the state of excavated costume with the maximum stability by classifying items capable of being restored considering the fabric state of excavated costume. The drawn thread from the weak in strength and the refined thread of the Juasa(simple gauze) or the light degraded silk thread has been used in case of thread for restoration. The cotton fabrics has been used in the fabric of cellulose system, the Juasa or the silk has been used in the silk depending on the kind of fabric in connection with the support fabric, some parts have been dyed with Alnus firma fruit and the persimmon, has been repaired by using the dyed fabric with the clove for the purpose of mothproof-antibacterial treatment. The method to repair has been carried out by classifying according to the state of damage and the way of formation of costume. The needlework method suitable for the part and state of damage by using the basting, the broad-stitching, backstitch, the blind stitch and the hemming stitch in connection with the needlework method for restoration.