• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.5-22
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• 1996

the present thesis aims to contribute to the further development of the men's wear indus-try in Korea which now confronts the need to adjust itself more actively to the conditions of the coming age of internationalization and free trade. To achieve this this thesis suggests the trade should provide for the changing domestic needs on theone hand and refine its wares as high value-added products in compe-tition with those from the advanced countries in fashion industry on the other, The history of the 'suit' the standard men's attire dates back to 1850 when the 'Ditto suit' was introduced composed of coat waist coat vest and trousers to remain virtually unchanged till the end of the nineteenth cen-tury and the modern men's wear originated in Britain. In Korea since the introduction of western clothes from 1876 custom-made suits had been dominant until 1944 while western clothes earned popular currency between 1945 and 1964 and ready-made suits began to spread with their advantages recognized in terms of practicality convenience and functionality The next phase from 1965 to 1985 witnessed the establishment of a number of ready-made brands although custom-made suits stayed in their height of prosperity until 1975. The turn-ing point for the men's wear industry came in 1975 when high-calss ready-made brands be-gan to turn up with the arrival of large companies in the market matching the change in consumers' life style. The men's wear market went through further diversification and specialization dur-ing the years between 1985. and 1990. Around the year 1990 however the expansion of the business suit industry came to slow down ac-companied by an oversupplied market. The fashion of pragmatism in the 1990s called for the growth of the casual wear department and as consumers' life style became more and more individualized conscious dressing in accord ance with T.P.O established itself as an important branch of culture, Such casual boom is likely to aid in promoting Korea's men's wear indus-try to peer with that of advanced countries. Consumers' fashion sense is now ahead of the trade's as well as being shortcycled highly individualized stylized and diversified. To meet consumers' demands under such circum-stances each company is required to develop its unique soft Know How based on accurate information and strategically specialized plan-ning. The trade should convert its hithero producer-oriented strategy to a new consumer oriented one and actively lead the needs and purchasin g pattern of consumers by providing an efficient and reasonable price policy with optimum supply of merchandise and also by presenting 'our' trend suited to our circum-stances.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.73-84
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• 2015

Analysis of design preference to Korean and Chinese casual style were made targeting Chinese female students in Korea. The following conclusion was derived from the result of final 300-copy survey data, using SPSS 18.0 program. The data were analyzed by frequency, t-test, chi-squre independence test, ANOVA and Scheffe test. Firstly, when comparing change of design preference before the stay in Korea with after the stay in Korea, the biggest change in their preference was character casual style, while the least change was easy casual wear. In terms of duration of stay in Korea, the biggest change was from the group of over 3 years, and in the order of the group of 1-3years, and then lastly less than 1 year, which suggests that the longer the duration of stay, the bigger the change. When comparing preferred clothing color before the stay in Korea with after the stay in Korea, both before and after the stay in Korea had the highest preference for achromatic colors. The frequency of change was mostly from achromatic color to other colors. In the preferred clothing pattern, 'plain' was their favorite one before the stay in Korea, while it turned to 'nature pattern' after the stay in Korea, followed by 'plain' one. In the textiles, the most preferred one was 'cotton', before and after the stay in Korea. However, their preference for cotton was lower after their stay in Korea than before the stay in Korea, and instead there was more preference for 'silk', 'synthetic fiber', and 'other' sources.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.605-612
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• 2004

This is a study which evaluates the brand personality on casual brands according to the sensibilities of consumers. Focus is placed on classifying the sensibilities of consumers through G sensibilities developed by the Fuji Research Institute in Japan, and then on investigating brand personality of casual wear, Levi's in particular. The subjects are 187 male and female college students living in the Busan area. Data were, using SPSS 10. 0 for Window, statistically analyzed by frequency and factor analysis for VARIMAX, Cronbach's coefficient, and ANOVA. The results of data analysis are as follow; First, in the distribution of G sensibility type, the majority of the respondents have G3(whimsical) type, and then followed by G1(my pace) type, G4(active) type, G2 type(active) type and then G5(sensualist) type. Second, as a result of brand personality evaluation on the casual brands, it has been represented by the following 5 factors; passion, competence, honesty, sophistication, and sentiment. Third, the brand personalities according to G sensibilities showed significant differences among respondents; G5 type(sensualist) especially showed the highest brand personality in the passion and sentiment factors, which are distinctive in the brand personality of Levi's. Consumers of G1 type, G2 type, G3 type, and G4 type showed high brand personality in the competence and honesty factors. The evaluation of brand personality, case study for products development and application, and application of the results need to be continued for follow-up study.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.143-152
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• 2005

Stepping in the 1990s, we has lived under the time of co-existence of diverse culture as well as faced the diffusion of pop-culture. The border between subculture style and hi-fashion has been blurred since beginning of 1990s. By this reason, recognizing the power of influence and importance of subculture style, we will try to provide the comprehensive vision reflecting the cultural background to analyze the subculture style. We will conclude this article with discussing the club-culture which is settle as one type of culture. Enjoying the club-culture, clubber tries to escape from the structural estrangement putting by the magical and symbolic meaning through creating their own style, and endowing their life the meaning. They make liquid club wear targeting at general young culture, pop culture, and subculture as well as hippies, Mods, funk. The Club wear around University sort out Hiphop Style, Casual Style, Mix and Match style. As at the club the hiphop music was played, the hiphop style dress becomes the club ware. Especially, training style clothes which is easy to dance has become the everyday dress, not just restricted in the indoor dress.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.68-79
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• 1997

In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• 복식
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• 제60권6호
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• pp.62-73
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• 2010

The purpose of this thesis is to make an effective Korean Hip Hop culture and suggest a new style direction in classifying the types of fashion styles of the Hip Hop musicians and studying their features. They are surveyed in stage costumes, hair styles, make-ups, accessaries, and total fashion styles, and then classified into Normal Hip Hop Style, Casual Hip Hop Style, Sporty Hip Hop Style, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style, and Classical Hip Hop Style. The results of the study are as follows: First, Normal Hip Hop Style is the most general and universal Hip Hop fashion type. They wear clothes in bigger sizes and exaggeratively. And also a cornrow hair style, a tattoo, and a piercing represent marked individualities. Second, Casual Hip Hop Style is more active and practical than Normal Hip Hop Style. Their blue jeans and T-shirts express more simple and polished style. And also they make variable fashion styles and hair styles such as a cornrow hair and a buzz cut. Third, Sporty Hip Hop Style is from B-boy's clothes when they do active and violent break dancing. As NBA basketball games are popular, they wear training clothes, breeches, big T-shirts, and jumpers & caps on embroidered sport team's names. Their hair style is short or natural and also they have caps or hoods to present active mood. Fourth, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style is existed variable elements in one style. The typical type of this style is jacket & blue jean. It is characterized by dress shirts, neck ties, blue jeans, sneakers, beards, and moustaches. Fifth, Classical Hip Hop Style is from African Americans. They try to express assimilated appearance of Anglo-Saxons. They wear black suits, shoes, hats, and sunglasses to represent formality and elegance. In the above results, there are variable fashion styles in one Hip Hop music genre and also fashion style is changed with musical inclination. This thesis is an important guide to produce variable and creative Hip Hop fashion styles in Korean Hip Hop culture.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.450-456
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• 2016

This study examines the wearing conditions of tight-fit pants of men in their 30's in order to develop patterns for tight-fit pants. Tight-fits are loved by the young generation. This fashion has established a notable trend and demand in the casual clothing market as well as in the men's wear market. The study conducted a survey targeting Korean males in their thirties, and a total of 76 samples were used for the final analysis. The study survey showed that a growing number of men wear tight-fit pants in their daily life and prefer brands that feel more casual when it comes to expressing themselves with fashion. The men indicated a desire to look slim; however, they also wanted their clothes to be wearable and not interrupted them while moving. Sales of men's wear targeting the thirties age group have increased every year; consequently, this will study suggests that any relevant fields should first have a good understanding on men in the thirties and their needs before designing any clothes. Discussions that this study developed will be applied as a basic reference to design patterns for functionally-efficient tight-fit pants. Those pants will correspond to the physical characteristics of the thirties who transition with changes in every body part that would not occur when they are in their twenties while not disrupting.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.149-157
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• 2016

Research on changes of Chinese women's fashion styles was conducted through analysis of fashion images and articles in Chinese fashion magazines since 1980s. Through the fashion magazine research centered on Shanghai, the most developed commercial city having a great influence on the entire fashion industry in China, it examined Chinese fashion styles by period so identified a developmental process of Chinese fashion styles. Based on general understanding of Chinese fashion magazine industry, case study was conducted on "Shanghai Style(上海服飾)". After analyzing 1100 fashion images by period derived from 245 volumes from 1985 to 2013, this study compared fashion styles in 4 periods and analyzed the developments of Chinese fashion styles. Findings from the case analysis based on the classification of fashion styles are as follows. In the early editions, images to give a visual stimulus and express styles more intuitively were frequently used with reported articles. As for the general change of the style in "Shanghai Style(上海服飾)", expression was done centered on casual wear with gradual disappearance of formal wear. There was a tendency entire atmosphere of the style became romantic. Through a comparative analysis between Chinese fashion styles having such developmental characteristic and the global fashion trends, this study identified special characteristics of Chinese fashion style changes. As for common characteristics, firstly, both have a tendency to change into the coexistence of various styles rather than popularity of certain style. Secondly, style was expressed gradually centered on casual wear.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.60-82
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to confirm and practical use the street fashion design analysis system(Web-SFAS) which was designed in preceding research. Web-SFAS was developed to analyze data fast, accurately, conveniently, and to provide them to related fields by using Information Technology (IT) in fashion design industry. By inputting, sorting and analyzing actual image data into this system, it purposes to check if it needs to be corrected and to verify its operation and application. For this study, 191 street fashion image and paper questionaries were collected on Oct. 16th from 4pm to 7pm in Gyeong-Nam area(4 markets), 2004. This study was processed basically cross research(real time research). The collected data and paper questionaries were analysed by 4 experts who had over Master Degrees, and the results were input to the Web-SFAS system. This system analyzed the results as follow ; First, Top is usually wear T-shirts, cardigan item of soft material, Bottom is usually wear Skirt, jean item of hard material. Second, As for shoes, pumps were the most popular, and as for accessories, diverse items such as shoulder bag, jewelry, and totebag were preferred. Third, fashion image, most people wear a sportive casual style with semi-casual in a close second. Therefore, We also expect that this data can be used a prediction for the next seasons design trends and needs, especially if we make an online database through this development system, then it will be easier to access faster and more accurate fashion information.