• Title/Summary/Keyword: Buddhist costume

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Study on the Costume of Early Joseon Dynasty Appearing in 16th Century Taenghwa (16세기 탱화에 나타난 조선전기 복식연구)

  • Kim, Soh Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.1
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    • pp.45-63
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    • 2014
  • In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong (관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.38
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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A Classification of the Types of Seon Expressed in Costume of Worldly Figures Illustrated in Koryo Buddhist Paintings (고려불화를 통해 본 현실세계 인물의 복식에 표현된 선의 유형분류)

  • Ok, Myung-Sun;Park, Ok-Lyun;Lee, Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.1 s.110
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    • pp.39-49
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze characteristics of each of the types of Seon which was expressed in costume of worldly figures illustrated in Koryo Buddhist paintings. The types of 'Seon' are largely classified into Standard and Application types. Among these types, standard type are reclassified into the types of same color and no pattern, different color and no pattern, same color and pattern and different color and pattern. And Application type is reclassified into the types of Buseon, wrinkle, feather and leaf, Regarding styles of Seon, most costumes for men and women used Seon of Standard style, especially that of different color and no pattern style. In addition, costumes for men more often used Seon of Standard style, especially that of different color and pattern style. While, costumes far women more often used Seon of application style, especially that of feather or wrinkle style. Seon was practically used to reinforce the edge of clothes, whether for men or women, and at the same time, and at the same time decorated the clothes brilliantly. In regard to aesthetic qualities of clothes in accordance with types of Seon, clothes having Seon of same color and no pattern type was natural and simple and different color and no pattern type, artificial and simple, same color and pattern type, natural and brilliant and different color and pattern type, artificial and brilliant. And costumes having Seon of Buseon type was decorative and simple, wrinkle type, sophisticated and dynamic, feather type, voluminous and dynamic and leaf type, brilliant and dynamic.

A Study ont the Kasaya in relation to Buddhist Thought (불교사상을 중심으로 살펴본 가사)

  • Kim, Kyung-Sook;An, Myung-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.46
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    • pp.17-30
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the philosophy behind the Kasaya and its evolution through its clothing material colour structure and sewing. According to the study the results were as follows. 1. The philosophy behind the dressing of the Kasaya can be found in the Therefore wearing the Kasaya symbolizes the Buddhist philosophy of Jat'ailshisongbul ("Simultaneous attaining of Buddhahood for Everyone") 2. The material symbolizes endurance and contentiment by being satisfied with any kind of clothes may they be good or bad. The material of the kasaya comes to signify the harmony among the monk's community 3. The Kasaya uses peculiar colours and the prohibits the use of the five primary and seconary colous. This is to symbolize equality wherein there is no distinction between the noble and the mean. 4. The structure of the Kasaya according the takes the form of a field The Jo is cut lengthwise and divided in nine grades following the Mahayana tradition as written in the This idea reflects the philosophy of salvation of the Pure land thought. The Je has many Jang('long') and fex Dan('short') The meaning of this is that all living beings by self-cultivation can overcome the dirty law of the secular world and follow the way of the sage who have attained their Buddha nature. 5. With respect to the sewing after finishin the sewing the Jang and the Dan are combined together representing the interdependence between the holy person and the common person. Therefore the sewing ssymbolizes the interconnection among all living beings as it arise from the "conditional causation" law. As I have shown above the philosophy behind of the Kasaya developed and was enriched as it cross over China from India to the Original Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Mahayana buddhist thought. As I have shown above the philosophy behind of the Kasaya developed and was enriched as it cross over China from India to the Original Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Nahayana Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Mahayana buddhist thought. As a result the Dasaya came to signify the "field image". The field-image symbolized by the kasaya came to signify the "heart-field" of all living beings. The "heart-field" by its cultivation is field with blessings. Therefore from the sanghati the Nine Grade the evolution and changes in the designs of the kasaya through the different periods of history became clearly an expression how it is possible for anybody to attend the Buddha nature. This changes also show how the Buddhist precepts became reformed from the original Buddhism.ecepts became reformed from the original Buddhism.

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A Study on the Characteristics of the Fabric inside the Vairochana Buddhas in Haeinsa Temple (해인사 비로자나불복장 섬유류 유물에 관한 고찰)

  • Park, Yoon-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.5
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    • pp.141-153
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    • 2014
  • Buddhist articles from various periods in the Vairochana Buddha statues, which are currently housed in the Haeinsa Temple's Supreme Buddha Hall and Beopbojeon Hall. This research concentrates on the artifacts found inside the storage boxes, which was placed inside the Buddha statues in 1490. A total of 24 pieces of fabric articles found inside the Virochana Buddha in Beopbojeon and 213 pieces from the Supreme Buddha Hall were examined. The types of textiles are as follows: bast fiber, silk, cotton, and union cloth. Bast fiber consisted of ramie and hemp. For silk, tabby woven with plain weave, spun silk, and thin tabby were found. And twill damask made with twill, Sa and Ra with the leno weave, and satin damask made with the satin weave were also found. Also the two Jeogoris and three Jogakbos were found, the one Jeogori was made with Hwan. The Buddhist articles in the Vairochana Buddha of Haeinsa have been preserved well and its colors have remained virtually the same from the time of its original placement. Therefore these articles are very important in understanding the textile characteristics, weaving techniques, dying techniques as well as traditional colors.

The Types and Transition of Kasaya since the Mid Joseon Dynasty (조선중기 이후 가사(袈裟)의 유형과 변천)

  • Kang, Sun Jung;Cho, Woo Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.2
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    • pp.17-34
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    • 2014
  • This is a theoretical and empirical study on Kasaya, the Buddhist monk's robe, which is one of the traditional Korean costumes that has kept it original form, as well as it being the most symbolic ritual costume in Buddhism. The purpose of the study is to see the different types of Kasaya, and the transitions it has gone through since Mid Joseon Dynasty. The analysis was performed after categorizing Kasaya in the following manner: layers, the way to wear, symbolism in construction, sewing, etc. Having a variety of Ilwolguangcheop(日月光貼) is a feature of Korean Red Kasaya. In the beginning, Its shape was very similar to shape of Hyungbae(胸背), and this was a royal gift and had the same meaning as an official uniform for a Buddhist monk. So designs of the Cheop(貼) could have been transformed from those of Hyungbae with a Buddhist twist. The conclusion of the study is as follows: Double layered Kasaya shows its transition from double layer to single layer. The fastening ornaments have been simplified in all materials from Yeongja(纓子). The latch type and three-paired Yeongja type transformed into hook type and one-paired Yeongja type. Color is the most common feature above all, and it is mainly in red. The form of Korean Kasaya has a significant relation with development of Buddhism. The integration of the Zen sect would have influenced the integration of Kasaya, which shows diversity throughout the period.

Analysis of Color and Color Differences of Dyed Articles According to the Traditional Techniques of Dyeing Buddhist Priests' Robes (재래 묵염방법에 따른 피염물의 색상과 색차 분석)

  • Kim, Chong-Tai;Hwang, Choon-Sup;Park, Mee-Gee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.2
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    • pp.68-80
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    • 2010
  • In order to get the information needed for the preservation and application of Korean traditional dyeing techniques to modern textiles products, the present study analyzed the color and color differences of dyed goods according to the contents of fabrics and the traditional techniques of dyeing the Buddhist priests' robes. A spectrophotometer was used to measure the differences in achromatic color according to dyeing techniques, dyestuff, kinds of dyed fabrics, and after-treatment methods. Through experiments based on the traditional dyeing techniques used by Korean Buddhist priests, a total of 144 pieces of dyed fabrics were made and all the colors of those 144 pieces were analyzed. Among three dyeing techniques tested; (1) dyeing with a dye-bath made of ink stick that was ground down with water, (2) dyeing with a dye-bath made by shaking a bag containing ink powder in water, and (3) dyeing with a dye-bath made by rubbing a boiled ink stick on a fabric, dyeing with a dye-bath made of ink stick that was ground down with water was shown to be the best technique in terms of coloring. For fabrics, ramie was the best of all three techniques in terms of making achromatic color. Starching and rubbing was the most effective after-treatment method used on both fabrics dyed with a grounded ink stick and on fabrics dyed by rubbing a boiled ink stick on them. As a whole, yangyeonmook, made from minerals' soot, is better than songyeonmook, which is made by burning old pine trees or yooyeonmook, which is made by burning oils from seeds. Therefore, yangyeonmook could help to preserve and utilize the traditional dyeing techniques of Korea in a practical way in modern life.

A Study on the Dancing Costumes for the Buddhist Ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak' (한국 불교 영산재 -무복에 관한 연구-)

  • 이초연
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.19
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    • pp.141-155
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    • 1992
  • The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.

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Factors relating to Changes in Costume Style of Stone Statues at Tombs of the Emerging Gentry (Sadaebu) in the Joseon Dynasty (사대부 묘 석인상 복식의 양식변화 요인에 관한 고찰)

  • Lee, Eun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.6
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    • pp.12-23
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    • 2008
  • This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.

History and Design of Nineteenth-Century Minpos, Korean Commoner's Wrapping Cloths - Focused on Supo -

  • Im, Sung-Kyung
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.42-52
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this research is to survey minpo(the nations pojagi), especially supo(the embroidered pojagi), of the Yi Chosun of Korea during the nineteenth century. This study explores the history and background of minpo, its characteristics, including forms, designs, materials, and how they related to women's daily life during the Yi Chosun in social and cultural aspects. There were minpos for use in everyday life as well as for special occasions such as weddings, funerals and religions rites, including Buddhist and other services. The research undertaken here is done by classifying minpos according to composition, design, pattern and motif.

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