• Title/Summary/Keyword: Boussinesq wave theory

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Shoreline Changes due to the Construction of Offshore Structure and its Numerical Calculation (이안 구조물 건설에 따른 해안선의 변화와 수치계산)

  • 신승호
    • Journal of Korean Port Research
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.47-56
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    • 2001
  • A numerical model for practical use based on the 1-line theory is presented to simulate shoreline changes due to construction of offshore structures. The shoreline change model calculates the longshore sediment transport rate using breaking waves. Before the shoreline change model execution, a wave model, adopting the modified Boussinesq equation including the breaking parameters and bottom friction term, was used to provide the longshore distribution of the breaking waves. The contents of present model are outlined first. Then to examine the characteristics of this model, the effects of the parameters contained in this model are clarified through the calculations of shoreline changes for simple cases. Finally, as the guides for practical application of this model, several comments are made on the parameters used in the model, such as transport parameter, average beach slope, breaking height variation alongshore, depth of closure, etc. with the presentation of typical examples of 3-dimensional movable bed experimental results for application of this model. Here, beach change behind the offshore structures is represented by the movement of the shoreline position. Analysis gives that the transport parameters should be taken as site specific parameters in terms of time scale for the shoreline change and adjusted to achieve the best agreement between the calculated and the observed near the structures.

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Characteristic of Wave Diffraction and Reflection for Irregular Waves in SWASH Model Around Small Port Structures (소규모 항만 구조물 주변에서 불규칙파에 대한 SWASH 모형의 반사 및 회절)

  • Kwon, Kyong Hwan;Park, Chang Wook;Park, Il Heum;Kim, Jong Hoon
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.6
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    • pp.468-477
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    • 2019
  • The numerical model of Boussinesq approximation, which is mainly used for evaluating the port calmness due to the irregular waves, has a limit of applicability of lattice size in ports such as marinas with narrow port openings of around 30m. The SWASH model controls the partial reflection according to the depth, porosity coefficient and structure size when applying the reflected wave incident on the structure and terrain. In this study, the partial reflection evaluation at the front of the structure according to the bottom shape and the shape of the structure are examined. In order to evaluate the reproducibility of the model due to the diffraction waves entering the term, the area of incidence at right angles and inclination of the structure is constructed and compared with the diffraction theory suggested by Goda et al. (1978). The experimental results of the sectional structure reflectances calculated as the depth mean show reflectances similar to the approximate values of the reflectances presented by Stelling and Ahrens (1981). It is considered that the reflected wave is well reproduced according to the control of the reflected wave at the boundary and the shape and topography of the structure. Compared with previous studies to examine the diffraction of the wave incident from the breakwater opening, the wave incidence angle and the shape of the diffraction wave are very similar to the theoretical values, but both oblique and rectangular incidence In the case where the direction concentration is small, the diffraction degree is underestimated in some sections with the crest ratio of 0.5 to 0.6.

A Development of Method for Surface and Subsurface Runoff Analysis in Urban Composite Watershed (I) - Theory and Development of Module - (대도시 복합유역의 지표 및 지표하 유출해석기법 개발 (I)- 이론 및 모듈의 개발 -)

  • Kwak, Chang-Jae;Lee, Jae-Joon
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.45 no.1
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    • pp.39-52
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    • 2012
  • Surface-subsurface interactions are an intrinsic component of the hydrologic response within a watershed. In general, these interactions are considered to be one of the most difficult areas of the discipline, particularly for the modeler who intends simulate the dynamic relations between these two major domains of the hydrological cycle. In essence, one major complexity is the spatial and temporal variations in the dynamically interacting system behavior. The proper simulation of these variations requires the need for providing an appropriate coupling mechanism between the surface and subsurface components of the system. In this study, an approach for modelling surface-subsurface flow and transport in a fully intergrated way is presented. The model uses the 2-dimensional diffusion wave equation for sheet surface water flow, and the Boussinesq equation with the Darcy's law and Dupuit-Forchheimer's assumption for variably saturated subsurface water flow. The coupled system of equations governing surface and subsurface flows is discretized using the finite volume method with central differencing in space and the Crank-Nicolson method in time. The interactions between surface and subsurface flows are considered mass balance based on the continuity conditions of pressure head and exchange flux. The major module consists of four sub-module (SUBFA, SFA, IA and NS module) is developed.