• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제23권11호
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• pp.111-122
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the bodice prototype method suitable for the upper body shape of old-old aged women using the 3D anthropometric data. And it was to provide the basic data for the upper body garments of old-old aged women. In the overall appearance evaluation, the B pattern was rated as 4.00, and it was evaluated as the most suitable for the bodice prototype of the old-old aged woman. The E pattern was rated lower than normal, and the L pattern and the S pattern were found to be inadequate for older female bodice prototypes. As a result of the measurement of the waist and bust air gap of bodice prototype, the air gap of the bust was not significantly different between the patterns. But the waist air gap showed the largest difference between the L pattern and the S pattern. As a result of evaluating the appearance, the amount of space in the state of 3D simulation, and the air gap, the pattern B appeared to be the most appropriate prototype for the old-old aged women's body shape. However, there is a tendency that the shoulder end point is biased toward the back, so it is necessary to set the inclination of the back shoulder line to be more gentle. Conversely, the front shoulder should be more inclined. In the case of the 3D simulation, the B pattern showed that the other parts generally fit well. In the case of the 3D simulation program used in this study, it was evaluated that it is suitable only for the normal body shape because it is impossible to set the isometric angle which is one of the characteristics of the older female body shape. A study on the bodice prototype suitable for the bent body shape should be carried out through experiments on the actual body shape of various elderly women. In order to cope with the increase of elderly people who are familiar with digital, I think it is necessary to develop an avatar that reflects the old female body shape.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.690-701
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• 2008

Fashion illustration as conversational pattern which is made up of human and daily story creates brand image and new cultural value in textile design. The purpose of this study is to analyze an expressive characteristics focused on human body in conversational pattern illustration. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion web site. The results were as follows: The category of body expression was classified as the head, the bust, the whole body, and the others. Most of all, the head is higher frequency than any other part. The category of body type was classified as iconic reappearance and surreal fantasy. The former expressed gender images of woman and man in reality and showed high frequency of 90.41%. Above all, two types were to show the organic correlation between fashion illustration body and brand concept. The construction method of motif was classified as singleness of body, repetition of body, singleness of body and non-body mixed, and repetition of body and non-body mixed. The repetition of body showed low frequency and it was composed of regular repetition construction and irregular construction. The singleness of body and non-body mixed, showed the highest frequency and it was definitely to communicate fashion concept. In these days, conversational pattern illustration in modern fashion pattern strengthens brand identity and informs the fashion image as creative commercial art. And also, it satisfies cultural sensibility of consumer and categorizes public phenomenons in our times.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권11호
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• pp.1550-1559
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to measure middle aged men's bodies around the ages of thirty-five through filly-five, whose age-group undergoes drastic changes on their body shapes. Further, body shapes are grouped based on the measurements, and pattern making methods are presented in order to effectively make up for the undesirable body features of middle-aged men. In order to develop patterns fit for middle aged men's body shapes, the regression which reflects physical characteristics was applied for the experimental shirts pattern, instead of comparative patterns which applies the same equation. For the two body types classified above(Bend-forward Type and Lean-back Type), correlation among the factors necessary for pattern design was considered and the regression was formularized accordingly. To validate the regression, the same amount of ease as in the comparative patterns was applied to the chest girth, and reasonable ease to the armhole depth and neck girth. In this way, experimental shirts patterns fit for the body types were developed. After the modification through the wearing test, the experimental shirts pattern was completed as herein.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.140-146
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• 2009

In this study, the ideal human body of adult woman is to express, and the body dimension of the woman model is produced and compared in doll model with the bodily dimension by presenting the body pattern to produce the dolls with the ideal body proportion visually. For the research process, by collecting, comparing and analyzing the body pattern of the currently used embroidery fashion doll, the pattern of body suit that displays the body of women is designed with the size of model with the height of 168cm. This is scaled for 1/4 of its entirety to make the doll of around 40cm and produced the research doll with two revisions. When compared with the ratio of each part of the body for the height of the produced research doll with the bodily ration of the major ratio of the height of the standard bodily size of Size Korea 2004, the ratio of the category of the height is almost consistent, and the width category is shown approximately 80~85%, waist for 75%, thickness category for approximately 90% as the ideal ratio.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.48-59
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to develop a basic pattern of corset look taking into consideration characteristics of human body and fit, by transforming 3 dimensional information obtained from draping of standard body type of women in their 20s, which constitute the biggest consumer group of corset look in Korea, on the basis of body shape of women best reflecting 3 dimensional characteristics. In order to develop a corset look pattern suitable for standard body type of women in their 20s, wear tests of A, B, and C types of patterns in terms of the bust in the standard body type that bust circumference 86.7cm and chest circumference 87.0cm were evaluated best. Taking into consideration above findings, fer the purpose of developing a corset look pattern having an excellent fit and reflecting characteristics of Korean women in their 20s with standard body type, a corset look pattern was designed with proper ease calculated by draping incorporated, and through alteration and complementation of such a pattern, a study pattern was produced. This study is expected to provide tips for standard body type women in their 20s with smaller bust circumference to choose clothing allowing for a better fit able to make up for weakness of their body, while presenting to clothing makers ways of designing and size-setting in terms of characteristics of body type of these consumers.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.97-104
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• 2005

In this research, the fit of basic dresses was examined, by analyzing and comparing the satisfaction of fitness of basic dresses made by the draping method on a custom-made replica body form and that of a basic dress made by the flat pattern method. Basis dresses were produced by the draping method for each 52 subjects using custom-made body forms, and another kind basic dresses for each subjects were produced by the flat pattern method using measurements of body sizes. Both basic dresses received high scores for the satisfaction of fit, but the basic dresses produced by draping method received higher scores. Thus it is expected to produce a more successful fit by draping a basic dress on a custom-made body form. Future research using more subjects might confirm these results. A more concrete analysis through using additional satisfaction tests could be conducted. For example, each subject might also serve as an evaluator to rate her satisfaction of fit wearing each of the two custom-made dresses. Finally, examining various body forms is suggested.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.491-503
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern that is suitable for the lower body of upper grade elementary school girls, who are beginning to show gender differences in body shape. Four age groups of two years each were considered for girls 7 to 14 years old. The mean and standard deviation of body measurements were calculated for each age group to analyze body shape variation, and hence the body characteristics of upper grade elementary school girls were identified. The high-frequency measurements of stature-waist circumference and waist circumference-hip circumference combinations were analyzed. In order to determine the size of each part of the jeans pattern and derive the drafting formula, the pattern sizes of brand A jeans, which had received a high score in the evaluation for ready-to-wear jeans(Kim & Lee, 2020), were used as the base criteria. In addition, the body sizes observed and calculated in the study were applied. Additionally, the requirements for better fit of ready-to-wear jeans, found in the survey on jeans wearing conditions and size dissatisfaction(Kim & Lee, 2019), were taken into consideration. Based on this research, a model set of jeans was prepared with the pattern developed and its fit evaluation was conducted. Thus, a slim-fit jeans pattern suitable for the lower body of upper grade elementary school girls was finalized. The pattern proposed in this study has excellent appearance and motion functionality, and is expected to contribute to reduce the fit dissatisfaction.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1109-1120
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• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.397-406
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• 2009

A Study on the Development of Brassiere Pattern for Elderly Women The purpose of this study is to develop functional and sensible brassiere for elderly women. For this purpose, 6 elderly women(aged between 65 and 69) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their bressiere wearing. he results were as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of elderly women's bressieres, 90B size was selected and then, their bressiere fitting was tested. The foundation pattern of the size 90A was proved for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the basic line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plastic mold(photo.2), the cup of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell(photo.4), and full side stretch-wings were applied to 13% reduced body size. The design pattern of elderly women's brassiers were characterized by a round wired as well as a full cup(3piece) embracing the entire breasts. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items(fig. 6). The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts loosing. It was designed to support the breasts firmly.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.582-590
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• 2010

Garment design needs an iterative manipulation of 2D patterns to generate a final sloper. Traditionally there have been two kinds of design methodologies such as the flat pattern method and the pattern draping method. But today, it is possible to combine the advantages from the two methods due to the realistic cloth simulation techniques. We devised a new garment design system which starts from 3D initial drape simulation result and then modifies the garment by editing the 2D flat patterns synchronously. With this interactive methodology using real-time pattern deformation technique, the designer can freely change a pattern shape by watching its 3D outlook in real-time. Also the final garment data were given relative coordinates with respect to the human anthropometric feature points detected by an automatic body feature detection algorithm. Using the relative human body coordinate system, the final garments can be re-used to an arbitrary body data without repositioning in the drape simulation. A female shirt was used for an example and a 3D body scan data was used for an illustration of the feature point detection algorithm.