Black froak coat, white shirts, top hat and cane has been the symbol of gentlemen in 19th and early of 20th century. The pattern invented by Savile Row in London prevailed whole England. Such a pattern has been the standard form for two hundred years all over the word, although it was replaced with a functionalism which developed in Italy and America at the end of 20th century. The clothes of gentlemen was developed by several factors ; English people respect a tradition. The clothes was practical, since the weather in England was bad. The success of Industrial Revolution made England wealthy. Various special clothes in sports, for example, riding, criket, golf and tennis also contribute the modern gentlemen clothes with advance tailoring technique. The change of gentlemenship with social environment, from Regency dandy, Romantic gentlemen to Muscular Christianity, was studied. Idial gentlemenship and development its clothes which is now the standard of modern men's wear also studied.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.13
no.4
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pp.93-110
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2011
This study investigates the analysis on the acceptance of Foreign Fashion trends in Korean Fashion Collection by collections, years, season, and designers. The purpose of this study is Korean collection's degree to adopt and receive foreign collections, by comparative analysis of design features between Seoul and foreign collections. For such purpose, from 2006 S/S to 2011 F/W, 5185 pictures were collected from designer's photos of Seoul, Paris, Milan, NY, and London collections. The content analysis and statistical analysis using SPSS will be conducted for data analysis. The results of the research are as follows. First, regarding the design features, square-form silhouette, achromatic colors, and none pattern were presented as well. Second, there were significant differences in the design characteristics of each year. Particularly, in 2008, X-form silhouette, Yellow and Green color, and flower pattern were emphasized. Third, the design features by season were significant differences. In S/S season, square-form and X-form silhouette, achromatic colors of white and gray color, none pattern were evident while in F/W season, square-form Silhouette, achromatic colors of black and gray, and none pattern were emphasized. Fourth, the design features by designer are as follows. In terms of form, Seoul collection was influenced by Paris collection. In terms of colors, it was influenced by NY and London collections.
Leong, Lester Chee Hao;Sim, Llewellyn Shao-Jen;Jara-Lazaro, Ana Richelia;Tan, Puay Hoon
Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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v.17
no.5
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pp.2673-2678
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2016
Background: It is unclear as to whether the size ratio elastographic technique is useful for assessing ultrasound-detected ductal carcinoma-in-situ (DCIS) masses since they commonly lack a significant desmoplastic reaction. The objectives of this study were to determine the accuracy of this elastographic technique in DCIS and examine if there was any histopathological correlation with the grey-scale strain patterns. Materials and Methods: Female patients referred to the radiology department for image-guided breast biopsy were prospectively evaluated by ultrasound elastography prior to biopsy. Histological diagnosis was the gold standard. An elastographic size ratio of more than 1.1 was considered malignant. Elastographic strain patterns were assessed for correlation with the DCIS histological architectural patterns and nuclear grade. Results: There were 30 DCIS cases. Elastographic sensitivity for detection of malignancy was 86.7% (26/30). 10/30 (33.3%) DCIS masses demonstrated predominantly white elastographic strain patterns while 20/30 (66.7%) were predominantly black. There were 3 (10.0%) DCIS masses that showed had a co-existent bull's-eye sign and 7 (23.3%) other masses had a co-existent toothpaste sign, a strain pattern that has never been reported in the literature. Four out of 4/5 comedo DCIS showed a predominantly white strain pattern (p=0.031) while 6/7 cases with the toothpaste sign were papillary DCIS (p=0.031). There was no relationship between the strain pattern and the DCIS nuclear grade. Conclusions: The size ratio elastographic technique was found to be very sensitive for ultrasound-detected DCIS masses. While the elastographic grey-scale strain pattern should not be used for diagnostic purposes, it correlated well with the DCIS architecture.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the actual wearing conditions and the preferences of knit wear school uniforms. The subjects were 480 high school girls from 6 high schools placed in Daejeon. The method of study is a survey consisted of actual wearing conditions questionnaires, preferences questionnaires, and demographic attribution. Data was analyzed by frequency, variance, crosstabs, and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0 program. The results of study are as follows. First, high school girls over 90% wearing knit wear school uniforms were satisfied with current knit wear school uniforms(navy color, V-neck, and wool mixed). Second, high school girls preferred 100% cotton material and black/white/gray color group. The style of knit wear school uniforms was most preferred monochrome cardigan with cable pattern. High school girls wanted to show neat image by knit wear school uniforms and to diversify the style of them. Third, the differences of preferences between groups, they were wearing knit wear school uniforms(A group) or not(B group), were about pattern and improvement. A group preferred school mark pattern, and wanted to improve the quality and after service. B group preferred monochrome cable pattern, and wanted to diversify the style. Both groups wanted to wear knit wear school uniforms because knit wear was 'warm' and 'comfort'. Consequently, knit wear school uniforms will help high school girls express individuality and beauty.
Najang was the central Seori, affiliated to the Ministry of War during the Joseon dynasty. The objective of this study is to research the existing authentic Najang costumes from the late-Joseon dynasty by examining factors, such as the composition of the costume, size, and method of creation, and attempt to replicate it. The Leipzig Grassi Museum in Germany possesses an official uniform of Najang from the late-Joseon dynasty, and we visited the museum in May of 2013 to examine it for the study. Written records, or Uigwe, and other pictorial data from the Joseon Dynastry describe the Najang wearing black or navy clothing with white decoration and pointy hats. The most notable characteristic of the Najang uniform is that it has the cotton cords pattern. The hat has a brass ball attached, which was worn with the ball facing the front in the early Joseon Dynasty, and was worn facing the back in the later years. They usually wore black head cloths (Heuk-geon), but would attach feathers on the black hats (Heuk-rip) for special occasions. The Najang uniform preserved in the Leipsiz Grassi Muesim does not exist in Korea. It is made of cotton. The cotton cord pattern of the uniform of Najang was made using single-ply cords and double-ply cords. The hat worn by Najang is in a form of a cone that becomes narrower towards the top or is in a form with wide and open end. It was made of oiled paper covered with hemp, and two circular metal disks were attatched at the rear.
This study examined the growth characteristics and carbonization pattern when a fire occurs due to a flammable liquid sprinkled on a vinyl floor. When acetone was sprinkled on a floor, the flame reached its peak in approximately 0.2 s after it was ignited. The lower part of the flame showed a laminar pattern while the upper part showed a turbulent pattern. The pattern showed a turbulent pattern and generated white smoke. The combustion completed floor surface showed carbonization of a dim pore pattern. In the case of benzene, an intense flame was formed in approximately 0.6 s after ignition. The flame length was measured to be approximately 50 mm. When the flame became weak, a significant amount of black smoke was generated due to incomplete combustion. The combustion completed floor surface showed carbonization of a pour pattern and splash pattern. In the case of alcohol, an intense flame was formed in approximately 1.1 s after ignition. In addition, the depth of carbonization was significant where the flammable liquid was collected and a trace of carbonization was observed at the boundary of the flow path of the flammable liquid.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.11
no.2
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pp.85-98
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2009
The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yo tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yo tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and design patterns through related books, research papers, internet sites, and etc. The results of the paper are as follows. The Yo tribe's costumes consist of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the color of the costumes is all black, there are splendid embroidery decorations with the colors of red, orange, yellow, green and white on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs, or a part of a trousers and aprons. The types of the patterns represented in the Yo tribe's traditional costumes are related to nature, ancestor worship, ethnic legends, history, religion, and agricultural lives. The method by which the Yo tribe expressed on their costumes is a "peach-blossom" technique, which uses cross-shaped embroidery with wrap and woof threads. Because it is not apt to express delicate and detailed patterns, the Yo tribe's patterns tend to show abstract and geometrical forms.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.16
no.2
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pp.71-80
/
2014
The purpose of this study was to investigate consumer evaluation on visual sensibility of stripe pattern shirts for separation coloration. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of clothing stimuli and response scales. The clothing stimuli were 27 color pictures, in which separation color(white: W, gray: G, black: B), separation width(small: S, medium: M, large: L), and combination color(magenta and yellow: MY, magenta and cyan: MC, yellow and cyan: YC) were manipulated. The subjects of this research were female in their 20s to 30s living in Seoul, Gwangju, Daegu, Busan, and Changwon. The investigation was carried out at December 2013. The data were analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were factor analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan-test. Results of this study were as follow.; The factors of visual sensibility according to separation color, separation width, and combination color consisted of four dimensions of attractiveness, appeal, individuality freshness, and grace. Separation color showed an independent effect on appeal and individuality freshness. Combination color showed an independent effect on individuality freshness. Interaction effects of separation color and separation width on appeal were found. Interaction effects of separation color and combination color on individuality freshness and grace were found. The study results are highly expected to be used as useful sources in a fashion product.
The taxonomic list of specific features in external and internal shape and the pattern analysis of Aconitum carmichalei $D_{EBX}$ as the original plant of Aconiti Lateralis Radix Preparata and Aconitum cliiare Dc as the original plant of Aconiti Ciliare Tuber are as follows. 1. Aconitum carmichalei $D_{EBX}$ has tri-palmately parted leaves, petiole in lower leaves, and its ovary has short hair. Whereas Aconitum cliare Dc has $3{\sim}4$ parted leaves, long petiole, and its ovary has not hair. 2. Aconitum carmichalei $D_{EBX}$ has cylinder shape is relatively small in length and diameter, is greyish brown blacky brown in outer surface, greyish $white{\sim}dark$ gray in section. 3. According to the collection place, there is a remarkable difference in the physical shape of herbal states. Aconiti Lateralis Radix Preparate(medicated in Korea) is more transparent blacky brown color than Aconiti Lateralis Fadix Preparata(medicated in Chian). Also Black Aconi Radix(墨附片) has exodermis and White Aconi Radix(白附片) has not. 4. The internal characteristics entirely correspond to in internal shape described in the literatures, Only it is possible to discriminate between black Aconi Radix(墨附片) and White Aconi Radix(白附片) by the existence of cork layer. The classification between Aconiti Lateralis Radix Preparata and Aconiti Ciliare Tuber makes entirely Tuber makes entirely remarkable difference in the physical shape of cambium layer Namely, in shape of cambium layer the kinds of Aconiti lateralis Radix Prepala has horn-like shape and the kinds of Aconiti Ciliare Tuber has circle-like shape. 5. In the peak of examination substance in comparison to Rt of the index material diterpene alkaloid mesaconitine, aconitine, hypaconitine chromatogram Aconiti Ciliare Tuber is higher than in Aconiti Lateralis Radix Preparata This explain that the component changes after the process of medicine. 6. In the Content of mesaconitine, aconitine and hypaconitime Aconiti Ciliare Tuber is higher than Aconiti Lateralis Radix Preparata. 7. In Aconiti Lateralis Radix Preparata, aconitine, hypaconitine and mesaconitine each appears in Rf 0.46, 0.54, 0.32. But except Aconiti Ciliare Tuber the band does not appear. For the future, such results will be used as the basic source of additional research, and a far-reaching comparative study is needed to distinguish between many kinds of same genus-degree of relatedness.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.35
no.6
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pp.687-699
/
2011
Folk costumes in East Asia are characteristic in their colors of the five-element colors based on natural colors or achromatic colors (such as white or black) that imply the beauty of nature or the beauty of naivety. The Asian look adopts forms of Asian costumes into western costumes in terms of structure, silhouette, ornament, pattern, and color; in particular, color had very limited attributes. This study is a comparative study on colors, shown in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look. It discovered the differences of color in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look to discuss the backgrounds of difference. For research, it simultaneously conducted literary reviews and empirical research based on the Asian look. Asian colors that appeared in some costumes of the Asian look were influenced by East Asian costumes, while the primary color of playfulness or color for low chroma or black exuding a contemporary nuance (common in the western fashion) were prevalent. This revealed that the costume that had the attribute of playfulness in terms of structure, ornament, or patterns is adopted in western fashion through the fusion of eastern forms and pastiche. Colors of the Asian look are different from those of East Asia with superficial imitation, in which all the East Asian spirits and symbolism are lost. While folk costumes of East Asia hold symbolism derived from Asian spirits, the Asian look disintegrates the ideology of East Asian costumes and replaces it with a Postmodern playfulness.
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