• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.41
• /
• pp.5-21
• /
• 1998

This study aims to show how tradition and modernity has interacted to produce the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korea. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceeded. And photos of the modern Korean dress from 1980 to 1997 were analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the body form was studied in terms of exposure and concealment of the physical body parts and the perception of body was classified into two categories, the abstract and the realistic. And the dress form was studied in silhouette and the perception of dress was assorted as body priority and clothes priority. Second, the aesthetic values of body were categorized to divinity, humanity and sexuality. And the aesthetic values of dress were defined in relation to the aesthetic values of body as ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty. Third, while the traditional Korean costume (Hanbok) pursues the aesthetic values of divinity and humanity of human body and ascetic beauty, pure beauty and natural beauty on the aesthetic values of humanity of human body and the pure beauty and natural beauty of dress. The contemporary Korean fashion expresses the aesthetic values of divinity, humanity and sexuality of human body and the aesthetic values of ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty of dress. In conclusion, the emphasis of sexuality of body and erotic beauty of dress in the modern Korean dress can be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korean by the influence of the western modernity.

• Journal of Korean Philosophical Society
• /
• v.144
• /
• pp.113-140
• /
• 2017

In this work we start from the thesis that Schiller's Aesthetic Letters contains two different doctrines of aesthetic education. When Schiller first raised the need of aesthetic education in his 1793 letters to Friedrich Christian von Augustenburg, he wanted to show that the taste for beauty contributes to morality and emphasized that man could reach pure reason only by way of beauty. When he revised the original letters and published them in 1795, he added some important parts concerning beauty as the condition and idea of humanity and the following arguments about 'aesthetic condition.' These added parts emphasize the harmony of reason and sensibility in beauty and the restoration of totality in 'aesthetic condition.' We examine the meaning and implications of 'aesthetic condition' in comparison with Schiller's 1793 doctrine of 'three-phase development of humanity,' and explain the background of this thought and also how it developed before and after Aesthetic Letters.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.52-67
• /
• 1999

A Study on the Drapery Presented in Costume The purpose of this study is to find esthetic characteristic of a drapery costume throughout Greece costume and modern fashion. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceed. And photos of the drapery costume were analyzed. Drape is the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment is an important quality to consider indesigning. Fabric falling in folds in the garment as seen on statues of ancient Greece ; most outstanding modern versions made by designer Gres and Vionnet. Greek costume was in drapery types mostly and a feature created the vest esthetic effert on simplicity with ornament of drapery. Grecian were expressed pure beauty and natural beauty throughout their drapery costume. Madame Gres is widely considered one of the most talented greece for inspiration of the couture, ranked by many with Vionnet. They shows in their mastery of Greek draping -el-egance and simplicity- And also, they always implicity emphasized the relationship between clothing and the female body. Therefore drapery costume admired beauty of pure human body Clothing is expressed which wanted to get the nature and human, search for the losed nature of modern men. In conclusion, the characteristic of drapery costume from ancient greece to modern, timeless concerned human\`s lives and recurring humanity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.126-156
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze mechanical beauty of the art style represented on the second half of the 20th century fashion. From the early 20th century, when the mechanical civilization began to develop in full scale, various distinctive styles of art began to emerge by the denial of the traditional artistic style, which is said to be an inevitable consequence fo the 20th century's spirit. That is, the diversified styles of modern art, which has developed in line with the rapid growth of civilizations, experienced environmental pollution, non-humanization and un-individualization. Those phenomena became mental anguish for artists and designers, they have come to meet with changes, by their efforts to find new way. SO, the mechanical beauty is becoming a very important factor arts. Especially, the collage of the Cubism have used as art techniques of positive mechanical beauty. And in the transition from Dada to Surrealism, the objects provided an important harmony, suggesting that all things, even those achieved by chance or presented in new associations or radical dissociations, could be said to have meaning. Pop Art that expressed daily living of spending culture in the post industrial society, scaled up the induction of mass media which was much more realistic than Dada or Surrealism. According to the results of this study, the second half of the 20th century fashion has generated mechanical beauty was examined and plundered by modern art styles. The mechanical beauty of modern art was represented in the modern fashion as the positive and negative formativeness. Above all, the best way that the fashion design should take in the future, is in the search of ways how to restore humanity that was lost due to use of machine, how t develop its merits and how to harmonized with mechanical civilization.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
• /
• no.43
• /
• pp.183-207
• /
• 2011

This study finds aesthetic elements and examines their aesthetic sense focusing on the melody of the piri in the completed Jongmyojeryeak with various ideational backgrounds from the views different from the aesthetic sense of Jongmyojeryeak that has been conducted so far. Jongmyojeryeak is to hold a memorial service at the place where the godship of the line of kings and queens in Joseon is set. It is the crystal of Confucian memorial ritual and representative cultural heritage of ancestral ritual culture and is designated as No 1 of national chief, intangible cultural heritage in 1964. Also, on May 18th, 2001, it was registered first in Korea as 'Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity' designated by UNESCO and was recognized of its superiority. It is not only a representative cultural heritage of ancestral ritual culture having fate with Joseon Dynasty for a long period but also has been recognized as the essence of our music compiling the holistic beauty of artistic forms according to music, songs, and dance created by our ancestors. Also, it has as its background the traditional thoughts including the Confucian thought as well as Yeak thought, Yin-Yang School, Samjae thought (三才思想), and Palgoe thought (八卦思想). This Jongmyojeryeak internalizes landscape beauty, Yojang beauty, natural beauty, magnificent beauty, and harmonious beauty. Landscape beauty can be found in Huimun and Jeonpyehuimun. Yojang beauty is the figure that is only shown in Jeongdaeup. Natural beauty is the skilled performance technique shown in the melody of variations and is connected to natural creation. It is well shown in Huimun and Jeonpyehuimun. Magnificent beauty is well shown in the melody of Botaepyeong movement. And harmonious beauty is the harmonization of dischord in Jongmyojeryeak and is well shown in Jeongdaeup's Somu distinctively showing its aesthetic sense from the view of natural, harmonious beauty in its music.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.6 s.105
• /
• pp.114-131
• /
• 2006

An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.31-37
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the causes of clothes phenomenon of the ruling class women on the Heian period of Japan in the aspects of politics, economics, society, culture, and religion. The findings of the study are as follows. The main characteristics of the Heian period of Japan may include a rare sense of internationalism, low sense of nationalism, and frequent cases of political intrigue. However, noble culture, centered on royal court, was flourished and it enabled to develop sophisticated and graceful culture. During the Nara period and the Heian period (from $8^{th}$ to $12^{th}$ century), there were enormous changes in the clothes, starting from the mid $10^{th}$ century. The clothes of the ruling class in the Heian period underwent changes from the imitative clothes-imitating the clothes of the Tang age of China- to Japanesque clothes-adding the aesthetic consciousness of Japanese ruling class people. Particularly, the clothes of the ruling class women became massive, majestic, and decorative. The changed clothes had also features such as layered look, utilizing underwear as outer garments, using a wide variety of colors, and using hard and solid materials to make clothes. It can be concluded that the clothes of the ruling class people in the Heian period were affected by plural factors such as national and international political situation, economics, society, culture, and religion. The clothes were used by ruling class people as means of expressing their noble and sophisticated beauty, which led to produce humanistic beauty. The Heian period can be described as an era of the highest reach of humanity.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
• /
• v.5 no.2
• /
• pp.77-86
• /
• 1994

The attempts in pursuit of humanity in contemporary architecture brought about meaning to the 'Locality as a main conception which opens new potentiality at this confused period. Contemporary housing design should meet the indigenous ‘Locality’ of the building sites environment. An adequate adaptation to the ‘Locality’ will bring more efficient use, lower running-costs, and longer durability of original beauty of the houses. Our contemporary houses should admit general requirements at this time and they should be expressed through not only space but also form and design. Finally, we must find the direction of elevation planning of Korean contemporary houses, inquiring into design elements of ‘Locality’ in the view point of transformation and analyzing how the elements are represented in contemporary houses. This research was aimed to find how to optimize an elevation design of houses in adapting to the Korean indigenous ‘Locality’ in order to create a domestic housing design suitable for Korean life style, however, one cannot ignored elements of the Korean traditional mode of living.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.37-47
• /
• 1999

In the 17th century, Europe had changed from medieval feudalistic ages into an absolute monarchy taking Catholicism and absolute monarchism together. On the other hand, Holland achieved prosperity in economy, culture, and arts through gradual enlightment of the people by winning independence from Spain, and religious reformation. The culture dress and its ornaments at the time was led by the governing class such as royal families and its aristocracy in Europe, while Holland, united republic country at the time, brought civil costume nationwide wholly by civil class and its effect to other neighboring countries in Europe. In addition, the origin of modern dress and its ornaments dates back to that time. Moreover, civil-looking dutch paintings found its sources in routine daily life and became realistic. With this respect, in this research, we put our purpose of the research in making a better and more understanding of the modern costume and its ornaments and exploring the spirit of human beings by analyzing dutch civil costumes shown in these artistic works. It is very important that this research is rather renovational comparing with prior ones focused on those of ruling classes. As a result of the research, the distinguished parts of the civil costumes appeares as following beauties. First, functional beauty was respected such as natural waist line, peplum, gather of the skirt and sleeve, apron, head towel were some of the examples to those in their costumes and its ornaments. Second, with respect to humanity under rough natural surroundings and long struggle with outside tribes, humanity of costume was brought by optimistic and even free mind to them. The three quater sleeve showed wrist and deep-cut decollete in their dress and ornaments. Third, with respect to simplicity, religious effect on the leading civil class demanding self-abstinence, frugality, and thrift in their way of life resulted in black-tone simple costumes with white collar in their costumes and its ornaments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.8 no.6
• /
• pp.806-821
• /
• 2000

Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men'fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.