• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1109-1120
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• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.211-228
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• 1994

We consider the irrational part of the basic pattern drafting of the Geo-Ko-ri so that we want to design it more scientically. So there are problems which is found after we considered with comparison about the existingly basic pattern drafting of Geo-go-ri. (1) there is a difference between the practical and Calculation. (2) The part of the curved line was mad indistinctly There is a difference betweence the calculating expression and calculating value. (4) There are some parts which lack objectivity about the reference size. (5) The calculating method of Collar-width and Neck-Nidth are not formative and rational. These are items that we must consider and study further. Especially if we can make up of the scientific form in consideration of the formativeness focused on "git" I think it will make a great contribution to not only the standardization of the basic pattern of Geo-go-ri and the use of the use of education but also the manufacture of individual clothing the production by Auto CAD. Auto CAD.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.345-356
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• 1994

The Shirts Blouse was produced through the process of shirts Blouse pattern making by utilizing CAD System developed by PAD Sys-tem Techologies Co. Ltd that is suitable to educational use or industrial use. The purpose of this study was to provide the basic data for the development of efficient and various design patterns by applying this pro-cess to the actual business of apparel making. The results were as follows: 1. The applicable range of CAD system 1) The repeated work can be avoided by thansforming and developing the basic pattern stored and the storage and remodification were easy. 2) The deletion duplication movement and copy of all points and lines in the pattern can be made freely and measurement of all lengths and angles the attachment of two patterns were possible. 3) The grading Library of the basic pattern was applied as it was and the time was curtailed by adding only several grading points with the change of design. 2. The problem in the use of the CAD System 1) Through the input of basic pattern by the digitizer the minute size difference was generated as each point on the curve came to be designated. 3) In grading the line of neck girth there was inconveniences to go to the plan view in order find out deviation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.57-67
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to improve the clothing life of the children between the nine to twelve by making a scientific and rational basic bodice pattern. The comparison of the eight pattern drafting currently used in Korea was referred in order to make new basic pattern. Three hundred fifty-two subjects from 9 to 12 years old in Seoul area were measured on 19 items. The measurements (24 items including 19 measured items and 5 drafted items that were difficult to measure) were analyzed by mean values and correlation coefficients between each item. This new pattern attempted to set the ease for clothing from experiments of the changes of body surface in motion. On the basis of the above results, a new bodice basic pattern was developed and tested with wearing three times. Through the experiments in measuring the changes of the body surface in motion, it was concluded that it desirable to set a standard of 12cm clothing ease on the bust circumference and 4cm on the waist circumference. The correlation coefficient of the tack width to across back was relatively high (r= .677), therefore, the latter measuring items were eliminated. A grading method was adopted to determine the width and depth of neckline and shoulder slope.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.571-578
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• 2009

This study was to apply the measurement variations of each region of the body to the basic bodice pattern grading and to provide the clothing pattern fit for the human body. Grading variation used in the apparel industry was researched and new grading variation was proposed by analyzing the statistical data of body measurements. The statistical variation in body measurements was applied to set the optimum grading region and variation. Five sizes were used by split grading method and drawn with Bust Circumference and waist length based on the middle size. Differences between the grading pattern and the drawing pattern were analyzed by overlapping them and measuring each region. The measurement variations of drawing patterns between the sizes were very different from those of statistical data. On the other hand, the measurement variations of grading patterns between the sizes and those of statistical data were similar. In summary, the grading pattern by applying the measurement variations to the region of the body was superior to the drawing pattern drawn by the basic measurements for clothing fitness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.59-72
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• 2004

The objectives of this study were to investigate the perceptions of Korean female university students for clothing pattern tendency and structural element of clothing pattern image dimension and to find how individual personality type influence the preferred clothing pattern characteristics. For this study, a questionnaire was designed and sent to 600 female university students of Daejeon, Seoul and metropolitan area. The tool used in this study was MBTI(The Myers-Briggs Type Indicator) Form G Korean version and for the analysis of data SPSS 10.0 package were used. 10 representative patterns for this study were floral, dot, stripe, check, animal, abstract & artistic, geometric, vegetable & leaf, paisely, patchwork pattern. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, arithmetic mean, One-Way ANOVA, x²-test. The major findings were as follows: Clothing pattern image dimension perceived by Korean female university students for 10 representative patterns were basic form, deluxe, specialty, and cultural dimension. Among them, basic form and deluxe dimension were major dimensions. In basic form dimension, dot pattern score was high indicating female students perceive it as light, comfortable, clean, cool and simple pattern image. In deluxe dimension, floral pattern scored high and in specialty dimension, abstract and artistic pattern scored high among other pattern image. In cultural dimension, geometric pattern and check pattern scored high. Based on other detailed analysis results, It is concluded that the personality type greatly influence clothing pattern evaluation. For example, in case of color combination of patchwork pattern, there was a difference in color preference depend on a personality type such as sensing(S) or intuition(N). Therefore, sensing personality type preferred adjacent color combination than contrast color combination. Detailed marketing strategy is necessary in planning textile design of merchandise plan.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2018

This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.157-164
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze bust point information presented in literature and the 8th Korean Anthropometric Survey (Size Korea 2021) as a basis for pattern making for Korean adult women. Therefore, the the bust point position was analyzed through the length from the side neckline to the bust point and the horizontal length from the bust point to the chest. The results are as follows. First, Size Korea's population shows an increase in bust circumference and Side Neck Point to Bust Point with age, with the largest Bust-Point Breadth in the 30s, followed by the 20s, 40s, 60s, and 50s. Second, the Bust-Point Breadth in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created from the bust circumference measurements of Size Korea's population, was wider than the measurements, and the difference was verified as a highly significant. Third, in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee created with the bust circumference dimensions of Size Korea's population, the length of Neck Point to Bust Point was shorter than the measured value, and the difference was highly significant. Fourth, the Bust-Point Breadth and Neck Point to Bust Point in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created with the bust circumference of the population of Size Korea by age, were analyzed in different age groups and showed significant differences from the measurements of Size Korea.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.239-245
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was for analysis of ease about basic bodice pattern, as the first step of the research process for the drawing method of basic bodice for women in their twenties. The five selected basic bodice were made and they were worn by FRP body The garment space of each bodice was measured by analysis of the garment space of each section in figure of polymerization of cross section by a 3-D measuring instrument. The research suggests that this compared analysis is an objective reference. This analysis not only of the area of cross section of garment space and ease but also of the girth of the body shape and wearing shape, using the PAD system and 3-D measuring instrument, can be helpful in making garment patterns.