• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.1243-1249
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• 2018

Ceramides are commonly studied and developed in the cosmetics industry as ingredients that help a moisturized skin and strengthen a skin barrier. In this study, we determined how much great effects the moisturing cream containing a ceramide, obtained from evening primrose oil instead of using a common synthetic ceramide, made on the changes in moisturizing and transdermal water loss of skin. The result showed that the cream with a ceramide showed much better results than the cream without a ceramide at the skin moisture resistance and transdermal water loss of skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.261-270
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• 2024

In this study, the effects of relieving itching and improving the barrier due to moisturizing human skin were evaluated for the cream containing Siraitia grosvenorii extract, which is effective in suppressing histamine and improving skin inflammation in the study subjects with itching. 43 female volunteers aged 21 ~ 59 years old (experimental group: 21 and control group 22) suitable for the purpose of the study were used for 4 weeks on the anterior gourd. The evaluation measured the amount of skin moisture and transepidermal moisture loss (TEWL) in the left or right anterior gourd before and after use of the product, and the visual analogue scale (VAS) evaluation due to skin drying, the efficacy and usability questionnaire evaluation of the product, and skin safety evaluation were conducted. As a result of the analysis, compared to before product use, both the experimental group and the control group showed significant improvement effects according to product use 4 weeks after use on the evaluation items of skin moisture and transepidermal moisture loss and the VAS due to skin dryness. In particular, the experimental group showed a significant improvement effect compared to the control group. As a result of the survey on the efficacy and usability of the product, the subjects of the study in the test group showed higher satisfaction than the control group in the case of the items "relieving itching (suitable)", "moisturizing" and "smoothing" after four weeks of use. In terms of usability, the subjects of the study in the experimental group showed higher satisfaction than the control group in the case of the "scent" and "feeling" items. Based on the above results, it is believed that "cream containing S. grosvenorii extract" has an itch relief (barrier improvement) effect due to skin moisturizing and can be used as a functional product for itching and barrier function improvement.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.49-56
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• 2021

In this study, a liquid crystal emulsion with a composition ratio similar to the skin lipid composition was manufactured using ceramide, glycolipids, cholesterol, and fatty acids, and a polarized microscope was used to identify liquid crystal particles in the formulation, and a cryso-SEM was used to confirm the formation of a multilayer structure. The above samples were stored at room temperature for one month and the liquid crystal structure was continuously maintained through microscopic observation. In addition, a cream composition containing liquid crystal emulsion was manufactured, and the efficiency of ceramide skin penetration was confirmed using three-dimensional artificial skin. Clinical trials were conducted using the cream composition and the results of clinical trials on skin barrier improvement were confirmed by measuring skin moisture retention (skin hydration) and transepidermal water loss (T EWL) of subjects compared to general emulsion.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2008

Ceramides, a constituent of stratum corneum lipids, play a crucial role in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier. As in many other skin disorders, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis show decrease and transformation of the ceramides. The application of ceramide has been demonstrated to be efficient in the repair of these skin disorders. Nevertheless, natural ceramides are still too expensive and small in quantity to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. Although a lot of pseudo-ceramides have been developed and on the market until now, those pseudo-ceramides did not fully meet the consumer's needs, therefore, there is still a demand for a novel pseudo-ceramides. We synthesized a novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 from 2-(2-amino-ethylamino)-ethanol(AEEA), which was characterized by structures having both amide bonds and hydroxyl groups as hydrophilic units, as well as two long alkyl chains. We formulated emulsion with BPC-16, cholesterol, stearic acid, and other components to make an emulsion. These emulsion showed a typical optical anisotropy on cross-polarized microscopy. This 'Maltese cross' appearance is a characteristic figure observed in concentric lamellar emulsion under cross-polarized microscopy. In cytotoxicity assay using MTT in monolayer and three dimension(3D) cell culture, a BPC-16 showed only negligible cytotoxicity up to the effective concentration for barrier repair and moisturization(less than 10 mM). In the measurement of TEWL, this BPC-16 showed significant recovery of water-retaining properties when it was topically applied to either SDS-induced dry skin or normal skin compared to that of base cream. This novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 showed as effective in skin barrier repair and moisturization as natural ceramides.

• Journal of Environmental Health Sciences
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.360-368
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• 2013

Objectives: Phthalates are used in a large variety of products including as coatings of pharmaceutical tablets, film formers, stabilizers, dispersants, emulsifying agents, and suspending agents. They have been the subject of great public concern in recent years. The extensive uses of this material have attracted attention and issues regarding its safety have been raised. Methods: In this study, three types of phthalate skin permeation were studied using matrixes such as ointments, creams and lotions in vitro. The absorption of phthalate diesters [Dimethyl phthalate (DMP), Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPP) and Di-n-pentyl phthalate (DNPP)] using film former has been measured in vitro through rat skin. Epidermal membranes were set up in Franz diffusion cells and their permeability to PBS measured in order to establish the integrity of the skin before the phthalates were applied to the epidermal surface. Results: Absorption rates for each phthalate ester were determined and permeability assessment made to quantify any irreversible alterations in barrier function due to contact with the esters. Types of phthalate in vitro experimental results quickly appeared in the following order DMP > DPP ${\geq}$ DNPP. Conclusions: In the experimental results, lotion> cream> ointment, and the permeation rate of lotion with a great amount of moisture was the fastest. Skin permeation rate is generally influenced by the chemical characteristics of a given chemical, such as molecular weight and lipophilicity. As the esters became more lipophilic and less hydrophilic, the rate of absorption decreased.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.533-541
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• 2004

Atopic dermatitis, also called congenital fever, is a allergic eczema of chronic itching disease. It is a recurrent and familial disease and appears on a wide age group from infant to adult. It is very common, and the ratio of occurrence is about $9{\~}l2\%$ of a child. However. it is showing trend of continuous increase by social and natural environment, food culture, and life style, recently. The human skin plays a barrier role against a physical and chemical stimulus from external environment. According to the latest study, the decreased amount of ceramide in horny layer impairs the bier function and moisture-maintaining function of skin in atopic dematitis patient. Ceramide is a kind of the sphingolipid in which a fatty acid is connected to sphingosin. Ceramide constitutes about $40\%$ of total lipid between keratinocytes and has the function of defense wall and building regular structure to suppress moisture vaporization in horny layer. In horny layer of skin a comified cell is composed of multi-layer structure of a brick shape, and, as for this cornified cell, it is strongly connected by ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acid. Here, we described the effects of a cream containing ceramide on the recovery of skin harrier function of atopic dermatitis patient. The safety and efficacy of latex and liquid formula were evaluated as cosmetics for atopic dermatitis. The latex products was composed of intercellular lipid components-ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acid-to restore skin barrier function in atopic dermatitis patients. The liquid one contained beta-glucan, magnolia extracts, and licolice extracts, which have skin immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory effects. It is also confirmed that their possibility on new cosmetic market of atopic dermatitis.