• 대한가정학회지
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.161-171
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• 2013

The purpose of this research was to examine the subjective evaluation of sensory images and preferences according to the mechanical properties of linen and ramie fabrics for summer shirts. 54 male and female teachers evaluated the sensory images and preferences of 6 specimens of linen and ramie fabrics sold on the market. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, Mann-Whitney and Kruskal-Wallis test, Pearson correlation, and regression were used. The results were as follows: The sensory images of shirt fabrics were classified into 5 factors: 'smoothness', 'stiffness', 'elasticity', 'dry/coolness', and 'wetness'. There were partially significant differences by the gender and age in the sensory images for the shirt fabrics. Females were more sensitive than males for the 'stiffness', 'elasticity', and 'wetness' factor and the evaluators in their 20's felt fabrics were stiffer. The sensory images showed many correlations with the mechanical properties of fabric mostly. The preferences of tactile and purchase were no different according to the gender and age. They preferred a thin and soft sensory image as like ramie/cotton blended fabric and bamboo fabric for summer shirts. The significant sensory image factors affecting tactile preference were 'smoothness', 'dry/coolness', and 'elasticity', and the ones affecting purchase preference were 'smoothness', 'stiffness', 'dry/coolness', and 'elasticity'. W, WT, MMD, and G properties of the mechanical properties of fabrics affected the tactile preference for summer shirt fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.19-27
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• 2012

Shinyeojuryeom is a set of bamboo blinds[Juryeom] enclosing the Korean litter for transporting a mortuary tablet of royal family[Shinyeo] in Joseon dynasty. The blinds were made up of twigs laid horizontally which were joined together by vertical threading, then they were lined and backed with silk fabric. A number of historical documents such as Gukjosangryebopyeon(1758), JeongjoGukjangdogameuigwe(1800) and Gukjangdogam- myeongseseo(1905) provide information on material and structure of the litter and blinds. How- ever, detailed dimensions or specific ingredients of some of the materials were not clearly explained. In order to complement these missing or unclear parts, a close examination and scientific analysis of the litter's material was undertaken. The result newly identified materials of the gold tip tassels and pigments used on twigs as well as partly confirmed information on historical records. This new information will help further understanding and future production of a replica.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.4-21
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• 2018

국립고궁박물관에 소장되어 있는 16점의 '평정모' 유물에 대한 명칭을 검토하여 그간 사용해 온 '평정모'라는 명칭의 오류를 바로 잡고 유물을 토대로 제작방법을 제시함으로써 유물 재현에 활용하거나 궁중의례 재현용 관모 제작에 활용할 수 있도록 하였다. '평정모'라는 명칭은 '평정건'에서 유래되었다. "경국대전(經國大典)"에 녹사(錄事)는 유각평정건(有角平頂巾)을 쓰고, 서리(書吏)는 무각평정건(無角平頂巾)을 쓴다고 하였으나 국립고궁박물관에 소장되어 있는 평정모 유물은 녹사나 서리가 사용하였던 평정건과는 무관한 것으로 판명되었다. 오히려 세자궁 빈궁의 별감(別監)이나 수복(守僕) 등이 사용하던 흑주두건(黑紬頭巾), 또는 조건(?巾)에 해당하는 것임을 확인하였다. 유물 조사를 통해 재단 방법과 바느질 방법, 완성된 형태와 접어 보관하는 방법을 확인할 수 있었다. 평정모의 구조는 동일하나, 접었을 때 정면에 드러나는 형태에서 약간씩의 차이를 보이고 있어 이를 3가지 유형으로 분류하였다. 평정모는 한 조각으로 평면 재단하여 접는 방법으로 입체적인 모자로 만들었는데 앞이 낮고 뒤가 높은 구조를 이루었다. 머리둘레는 55~59cm이며, 높이는 19.4~21.5cm이다. 1장으로 재단하기 위하여 머리둘레에 해당하는 부분을 식서 방향으로 재단하였다. 유물 <창덕 23820>을 토대로 재료 준비, 배접하기, 중심 장식 만들기, 바느질하기, 접기 과정을 거쳐 완성된 재현품을 제시하였다. 미리 계산된 독특한 형태로 재단된 흑색 주(紬) 겉감에 삼베를 배접하여 재단을 마무리하였다. 머리 윗부분은 검정색 실로 징궈 주었고 뒤 중심선은 소색 면사를 사용하여 3.5~4cm 간격의 블랭킷스티치로 고정하여 형태가 완성되었다. 앞 중심의 접힌 부분 안쪽에는 착용 시 앞쪽 형태를 곧게 유지하기 위하여 대나무 심을 넣고 흰색 면사로 일정한 모양의 스티치를 해서 고정시켰으며 뒤쪽에는 망건에 고정할 수 있는 길이 2.5cm, 너비 0.6cm 크기의 대나무 첨자(籤子)를 달아 착용 시 벗겨지지 않도록 하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.143-157
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• 2005

This study aims to analyze functions and characteristics of 'Cha-il(遮日)' which was used at ritual events(宮中儀禮行事) in the Joseon dynasty, Joseon dynasty had many ritual events related with O-Rae(五禮). Cha-il was almost used at important ritual events, especially at the congratulatory events. The congratulatory events(宮中宴享) are the representative events were held with many temporary install facilities(假設施設) in a palace. Cha-il was a kind of Korean traditional membrane structures. Cha-il was set up for cutting off interior space from sunlight and rain. In general, Cha-il was Consisted of Cha-il-jang(遮日帳:woven fabric), Cha-il-jook(遮日竹:bamboo column), some ropes, and fixing wares. In the congratulatory events, three types of Cha-il. were set up. Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il(白木大遮日)was made of cotton cloth. Yu-Dun-Cha-Il(油芚遮日) was made of oiled paper or oiled cotton cloth. Man-Joen-Cha-Il(滿箭遮日) consisted of wooden structure. Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il(白木大遮日)was set up on the most important area of stage for protecting from sunlight. Yu-Dun-Cha-Il was set up on less important area of stage for protecting from sunlight and rain. Man-Joen-Cha-Il was set up below Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il for supporting and draining raindrops off. The results of this study were as follows; Functions of Cha-il were to protect ritually space from sunlight and rain, and to extend ritually space, and to reconstruct ritually space. Cha-il was the peculiar temporary install facility which differed from other countries.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1063-1070
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• 2010

This study examined 12 types of towels with differing fabric material, function, quality, printing, pile length, twist, etc. from a towel company which manufactures and distributes products domestically. After 3 months of use by consumers, a consumer satisfaction survey was administered and results analyzed. Four types of towels were assigned to each group and the towels were used every day for 3 months. Participant feelings after using the towel for the first time and after using it for three months were investigated. The questionnaire consisted of 26 questions on a 5-point Licket-type scale. The first 13 questions measured perceptions of absorption, touch, fine fiber loss, contamination, deformation, drying speed, and design. Other questions compared differences between the two towel types in terms of their material, function, quality, printing, pile length, and degree of twisting. Results showed that, with regards to weight, consumers preferred towels between 130~150g and a thickness of around 1.7~1.8mm. The bamboo towel was considered superior to the cotton towel in terms of sense of touch and did not happen linter after washing. The antibacterial towel was considered better than the cotton towel in terms of absorption but in terms of contamination, participants felt the antibacterial towel became dirty more easily than the cotton towel. We thought that it might be influence of the color of towel. Low-quality towels became stiffer and misshapen more easily than higher-quality towels. But the study showed that the consumers did not perceive significant differences in the towels' quality. Printed towels became thinner and their color changed more with washing. The consumers preferred the design of jacquard towels to printed towels. Towels with short piles was happened more linter than the towel with long pile after washing. Non-twisted towel were better than the highly-twisted towel in terms of sense of touch and absorption but the non-twisted towel happened more linter after washing and became dirty more easily.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.823-833
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• 2014

The objective of this study was to take a closer look at the clothing benefits sought by breast cancer survivors in Korea. A qualitative descriptive study was conducted, using the focus group interview. Data was collected from members of online breast cancer forum. 18 participants were breast cancer survivors who had mastectomy or lumpectomy in their 30s~50s. The data was analyzed using content analysis in order to identify significant themes. The analysis indicated that benefits were sought after functional/comfort, health, feminity, and compensation were found. First, breast cancer survivors considered functional/comfort to be most important benefit so as to keep the body comfortable from the weather. Second, participants put the healthy body as the first priority and chose a well-being lifestyle and were likely to wear clothes made in healthy fabric, such as organic, bamboo or charcoal. Also, they preferred to look active by wearing sport brands or outdoorwear brands. Third, after the surgery, they experienced the sense of femininity loss and the sense of crisis as a woman. Single women and married women in early 30s recognized more seriously, and they tried to recover feminity by wearing clothes with feminine details. Forth, breast cancer survivor consumers tended to shop for the psychological compensation. In summary, consumers with breast cancer surgery, unlike general healthy women, did not sought to be economic, fashion, self-expression benefits, rather they sought health, femininity, and compensation benefits. Therefore, it seems necessary to develop proper products and marketing strategy to meet the said consumer's special needs.