• 제목/요약/키워드: Average wave height

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Freak Wave 발생의 통계적 특성에 대하여 (On the Statistical Characteristics of Freak Wave Occurrence)

  • 김도영
    • 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
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    • 제14권2호
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    • pp.138-145
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    • 2011
  • 이 논문에서는 Monte Carlo method를 이용하여 주어진 파랑스펙트럼에서 위상차를 임의의 수 (random number)를 발생시켜 파형의 시계열 자료를 시뮬레이션하여 freak wave의 발생 특성을 살펴보았다. 여러 가지 상태의 해상상태를 스펙트럼법에서 정의한 유의파고 $H_s$와 유의파첨도 $S_s$의 조합을 이용해서 표시하였다. 유의파첨도가 동일한 경우에는 $H_s$가 커질수록 freak wave 발생 확률이 낮아지며 $H_s$가 동일한 경우 유의파첨도가 커질수록 freak wave 발생확률이 높아진다. 주어진 해상상태에서 최대파고 $H_{max}$의 평균은 $S_s$의 값이 증가함에 따라 조금씩 증가한다. 그러나 freak wave의 평균파고는 $S_s$에 관계없이 일정한 값을 가지며 freak wave 파고의 평균은 $H_s$의 2배가 된다. $S_s$가 일정한 경우 $H_s$가 증가하면 파형의 평균 첨도(kurtosis)가 증가한다. 그러나 $H_s$가 일정한 경우 $S_s$가 증가하면 첨도의 평균은 감소한다. Freak wave 발생 기준인 이상지수(Abnormality index, AI)의 평균값은 $H_s$$S_s$에 관계없이 2.11 정도의 값을 가지며 AI의 최대값은 2.5-3.0 사이의 값을 가진다. 따라서 Linear focusing에 의해서 발생한 freak wave의 AI의 상한 값은 3.0 정도라고 추정할 수 있다.

Boussinesq 모델을 이용한 제주 차귀도 해역의 다방향 불규칙파 시뮬레이션 (A Simulation of Directional Irregular Waves at Chagui-Do Sea Area in Jeju Using the Boussinesq Wave Model)

  • 류황진;신승호;홍기용;홍석원;김도영
    • 한국해양공학회지
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    • 제21권1호
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    • pp.7-17
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    • 2007
  • Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.

대진폭 해양파의 특성에 대한 연구 (A Study on the Characteristics of Large Amplitude Ocean Waves)

  • 김도영
    • 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
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    • 제12권2호
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    • pp.61-67
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    • 2009
  • 이 논문에서는 freak wave가 포함된 시계열 파랑자료를 분석하였다. freak wave가 포함된 자료와 포함되지 않은 자료에 대하여 여러 가지 파랑 특성을 비교하였다. 파랑 자료는 Yura 해역에서 24시간 연속으로 측정된 자료를 분석하였고, 그 중에서 freak wave가 발생한 30분 동안 파랑과 인접한 30분간의 파랑자료를 집중적으로 분석하였다. 최대파의 파주기가 가장 긴 주기가 아닌 것을 볼 수 있다. 최대파의 파주기는 평균파주기보다 약간 길며, 유의파의 파주기보다는 짧은 것을 볼 수 있었다. 비록 해상 상태는 높지만, 레일리분포로 파고의 확률분포를 잘 표시할 수 있었다. Freak wave의 발생 전후의 파랑자료를 비교해 보면, 파랑스펙트럼의 특성은 큰 차이를 보이지 않으며, 발생한 경우에 비선형성이 증가한 것을 볼 수 있다. 그리고 freak wave 발생 직 후에 오히려 유의파고의 크기가 크게 나타났다. 따라서 유의 파고가 높은 것이 항상 freak wave의 발생확률을 높이지는 않는 것을 볼 수 있다.

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CFD를 이용한 부양식 파력발전 장치의 성능해석 (Performance Analysis of Floating Wave Energy Converter by Using CFD)

  • 최용석;임태우;김유택
    • 수산해양교육연구
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    • 제27권5호
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    • pp.1303-1309
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    • 2015
  • The behavior and flow characteristics of the floating wave energy converter were analyzed by using CFD in this study. The average significant wave height was confirmed as 0.5~2.0m from the Korean coastal sea area. This study was carried out by selecting a range of 1.0~1.6m in the wave height to simulate the operations of realistic wave energy converter system. The principle of a piston wave maker was applied in order to produce periodic wave. The behavior of the wave energy converter and the state of the wave overtopping according to the generated periodic wave were confirmed through the unsteady three-dimensional flow analysis. It was found that the wave overtopping rate according to the generated periodic wave was in range of the 11.6~30.0 kg/s.

고파랑 해안 침식폭 예측모델을 이용한 침식한계선(ECL) 설정 (Erosion Control Line (ECL) Establishment Using Coastal Erosion Width Prediction Model by High Wave Height)

  • 박승민;박설화;이정렬;김태곤
    • 한국해양공학회지
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    • 제33권6호
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    • pp.526-534
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    • 2019
  • The average coastline and the erosion control line introduced as the management coastline, and the average shoreline (MSL) was established from the observed coastline. Also, the median grain size and the wave height of 30-years return period were applied. The erosion control line (ECL) was established through the model, HaeSaBeeN. These two lines set the coastline for evaluation. Based on the observed monitoring data along the coastline, the 1-day variation according to the normal distribution was used to estimate the regional variation, and the width of the erosion was calculated by applying the median grain size (D50) and the wave height of 30-years return period through the high-wave coastal erosion width model, i.e., HaeSaBeeN.

Numerical study on supercavitating flow in free stream with regular waves

  • Li, Da;Lyu, Xujian
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • 제12권1호
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    • pp.799-809
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    • 2020
  • In this study, the supercavitating flow of a high-velocity moving body near air-water surface is calculated and analyzed based on a commercial CFD software ANSYS Fluent. The effect of regular wave parameters including both wave height and wavelength on the cavitating flow and force characteristics of a body at different velocities is investigated. It is found that the cavity shape, lift coefficient and drag coefficient of the body vary periodically with wave fluctuation, and the variation period is basically consistent with wave period. When the wavelength is much greater than the cavity length, the effect of wave on supercavitation is the alternating effect of axial compression and radial compression. However, when the wavelength varies around the cavity length, the cavity often crosses two adjacent troughs and is compressed periodically by the two wave troughs. With the variation of wavelength, the average area of cavity shows a different trend with the change of wave height.

장기실측 파랑자료 분석을 통한 동해안 폭풍파 출현 추세 (Trends of the Storm Wave Appearance on the East Coast Analyzed by using Long-term Wave Observation Data)

  • 정원무;류경호;오상호;백원대
    • 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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    • 제28권2호
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    • pp.109-115
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    • 2016
  • 우리나라 동해안 6개 관측점에서 장기간 관측된 파랑자료를 이용하여 폭풍파의 출현 추세를 검토하였다. 한국해양과학기술원의 4개 정점(속초, 묵호, 후포, 진하)에서는 관측기간 동안 유의파고의 연별 평균값과 최대값의 주목할 만한 추세가 나타나지 않았다. 또한, 폭풍파의 연별 출현 횟수는 진하에서만 완만한 증가 추세가 나타났고 나머지 세 정점에서는 감소 추세를 보였다. 그러나 기상청 동해부이의 경우 유의파고의 연별 평균값과 최대값 및 폭풍파 연별 출현횟수가 2009년 이후로 매우 급격하게 증가하는 경향이 나타났으며 해당 자료의 연속성이 확보되지 않은 것으로 확인되었다.

Effects of floating wave barriers on wave-induced forces exerted to offshore-jacket structure

  • Osgouei, Arash Dalili;Poursorkhabi, Ramin Vafaei;Hosseini, Hamed;Qader, Diyar N.;Maleki, Ahmad;Ahmadi, Hamid
    • Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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    • 제83권1호
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    • pp.53-66
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    • 2022
  • The main objective of the present research was investigating the effects of a floating wave barrier installed in front of an offshore jacket structure on the wave height, base shear, and overturning moment. A jacket model with the height of 4.55 m was fabricated and tested in the 402 m-long wave flume of NIMALA marine laboratory. The jacket was tested at the water depth of 4 m subjected to the random waves with a JONSWAP energy spectrum. Three input wave heights were chosen for the tests: 20 cm, 23 cm, and 28 cm. Two different cross sections with the same area were selected for the wave barrier: square and rhombus. Results showed that the average decrease in the jacket's base shear due to the presence of a floating wave barrier with square and rhombus cross section was 24.67% and 34.29%, respectively. The use of wave barriers with square and rhombus cross sections also resulted in 19.78% and 33.11% decrease in the jacket's overturning moment, respectively. Hence, it can be concluded that a floating wave barrier can significantly reduce the base shear and overturning moment in an offshore jacket structure; and a rhombus cross section is more effective than an equivalent square section.

2006-2007년 한반도 인근 해양기상 특성 : 파랑 (Marine Meteorological Characteristics in 2006-2007 year near the Korean Peninsular : Wind Waves)

  • 유승협
    • 대기
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    • 제19권1호
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    • pp.93-106
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    • 2009
  • Analysis has been made on the wind wave characteristics in terms of significant wave height ($H_s$) near the Korean marginal seas in the 2006 - 2007 year using the third generation wave model, WAVEWATCH - III model. In order to evaluate its performance, its results were compared with the observed data using KMA ocean buoy. The two year average RMSE between modeled and observed Hs shows reasonably small value of about 0.37 m. The accuracy of predicted values in the year 2007 is increased mainly due to finer model grid size and better accurate wind field. The model used in this study predicts very well the characteristics ($H_s$) of wind waves near the Korean Peninsular. Simulated monthly wind waves show the evident seasonal variations due to Typhoons in summer season. When Typhoons approach to Korean Peninsular, the accuracy of wind waves predictions is lower than that of annual mean value.