• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.110-127
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• 2015

This study probed into the fashion styling of modern girls who led fashion and revealed power of woman as the center of modernization in Korea. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data, expert evaluation, and styling development and presentation. The image of Korean modern girl analysis found in the order of modern image, elegant image, classic image, mannish image, romantic image. The aesthetic characteristics could be classified into sensual classicism, modern elegance, feminist epicenism, and romantic simplicity. The theme was 'Retro Modern' and a total of 4 styles were applied. 'Progressive Tradition' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of sensual classicism and it gave a modern reinterpretation of the seamless one-piece skirt which is the modified Korean clothes of Korean modern girls. 'Luxe Beauty' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of modern elegance, and it developed the long and slim style which was popular in the 1930's in a trendy way. 'Dressy Avant-garde' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of feminist epicenism, and it suggested the mannish style Western clothes that Korean modern girls wore by following recent fashion trend. 'Minimal Couture' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic simplicity and it presented the garçonne look which was popular in the 1920's by following recent trend.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2023

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.703-714
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to acquire various methods for the fashion image coordination and to examine common features of variation of coordination methods according to the trend. It has attained by investigating Men's fashion image coordination through trend analysis in terms of its coordination features and its variety aspects. For this study, it has classified into twelve typical Men's fashion images in collecting 1,291 pieces of photographs on the subject of jackets and pants from Men's fashion collection$(1995\~2002)$. The study has examined methods and features of fashion image coordination by year according to design elements and the harmony between items. In addition, it has drawn common factors in the image coordination. The summary and conclusion are as follows. A year of 1995, it has presented as the essential code of the variation that morphologic aspects of a design in the fashion image coordination. Various designs have developed through the variation of shapes such as shoulder width, shoulder pad, jacket width and its length and so on. In the initial stage, the width of shoulder and jacket has fitted into large pattern and then adjusted elegantly to make fit the body that indicates a dissolution according to an avant-garde image. At the time that over-measurement of the shape has reduced and high quality and variation of materials has gradually become significant. Those are often used that high-quality glossy materials or other materials which are opposite to the basic code of the original fashion image materials and qualities regardless of images. On the pattern and color, in addition, have represented neat and elegant impression with moderate applications rather than quantitative abundance that have used opposite elements to the basic code f3r the change code like materials. Furthermore, before and after 1999, ' it shows that a concept of the total coordination has arisen that increased coordination methods to strengthen and affluent its images for the whole with wearing accessaries such as hats, gloves, sunglasses, mufflers, bags, belts and so on.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.50-68
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• 2016

The objectives of this study are to identify the self-image and preferred fashion styles that Korean career women seek in different daily situations, and to propose a positioning map in accords with the findings. The study conducted a survey and in-depth interviews. The study used twenty items of self-image adjectives extracted from existing studies, and eighteen fashion style stimuli collected by examining women's wear brands. The study surveyed 329 career women. Their daily situation was classified into five situations; external meeting and presentation, ordinary work, wedding and family gathering, blind date or date, and meeting with friends and acquaintances. The analysis results of this study showed that self-image and fashion style preferences are relevant to daily situation. The image most sought in external meetings and presentation was the 'Elegant' image, and the image most sought in meetings with friends and acquaintances was the 'active' image. Women on dates or blind dates sought the 'feminine' image the most, however they preferred to avoid this image during external meetings and presentations. Among fashion styles, the 'elegant/classic' style was most preferred, and the 'sexy/avant-garde' style had the lowest preference among all the styles. 'Mannish' was preferred in ordinary work and meeting with friends and acquaintances, however, it was shown as having the lowest preference level in blind dates or dates. The 'romantic/natural' style was highly preferred in meeting with friends and acquaintances, however it had a low level of preference for external meetings and presentations. This study has significance in providing practical information to utilize in fashion industry by identifying the relationship between self-image and preferred fashion style sought by career women according to daily situation, and using the results to propose a positioning map.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.123-130
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• 2008

Symbolizing holiness, wealth and power, golden color was most effective to express the absolute power of royal family and aristocratic society as well as the beauty of magnificent and brilliant authority. Such golden color was understood as the artistic color formed in the dictatorial society as well as the society under the rule of absolute monarch. Thus, it has been used in the costume that symbolizes nobleness, holiness, brilliancy, ethnicity and future-oriented property. In this sense, the image of golden color shown in contemporary fashion was analyzed as follows in this research: First, showing the future-oriented image, golden color expresses avant-garde, cyber and cosmic future-oriented image by using diverse new materials which introduce the state-of-the-art technology sense in addition to metallic textile. Second, getting hint from the ethnic costume of many countries around the world such as brilliant embroidery using golden-thread, ornament with exaggerated technique such as gold foil, mark and character in peculiar tint, the ethnic image of golden color expressed the peculiar color or materials of ethnic costume, handicraft details, etc in golden color. Third, since golden color is expressed in ostentatious image to which elegance and luxuriousness that looks like the work of haute-couture costume of royal family or sensuality that voluptuously expresses the beautiful body line of women are added, the viewers are enchanted or attracted.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.101-117
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• 2001

Artist's creative works is accomplished in the very complicated network being in fluenced each other, getting celebrate from surround and center, and showing repetition and change. It took an important role of 1920's culture with new social and mental feature generated by revolution. It also has been influenced on an intellectual paradigm and artistic tendency. According to the feather the Art to Wear of Constructivism, at first, design as absolution of folk art in Russia prior to the concept is coming up to systematic design and useful article's performance. Courageous arrangement of color and rhythm is unique. The second is a tendency clothing design of productirism. It is connected with material culture and artists insisted creature of productive material that is a essential in life than Arts in museum. The third, tendency clothing design of minimalism emphasis functional aspect that is produced industrial aesthetics. The examples are simply designed and functional cloths for sorking uniform. This thesis is studied about clothing and textiles of major artists, formative property, and international reflection from October revolution in 1917 that is strengthen a system by introducing a new economic policy to a five year plan.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1021-1033
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• 2009

This study aimed to analyze the expression of Hybrid in Contemporary Hair Design that is one kind of total fashion. In this research, by background of the hybrid characteristics of the messes culture art, the hybrid characteristics of the hair design has been defined as characters which is the mixture of timeless spaces, styles, sexes, unsuitable elements and cultures. The results of analysis by the expression of the hybrid hair design after 2000 is like this. As the researching, the hybrid characteristics of the hair design by the mixture of unsuitable elements and styles have been presented the highest. The result of the frequency of the apparition in the hair design molding elements according to the expression of the hybrid hair design, the hybrid characteristics of the unsuitable elements and style has been presented ideological form and the artificial form was the highest. The case of the hybrid of the activated texture, the unsuitable elements, style and timeless space has been presented excellently one after another. In the color tone, the mixture of the style, the unsuitable elements and timeless space has been presented one by one. The case of the hybrid of the image, the unsuitable elements that is the highest the frequency of the apparition was presented the image of the avant-garde, the fantastic and humor one after another.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.127-137
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• 2014

The following are summary and result of this study. The purpose of this study was to research into TV makeup types focusing on Korean aesthetics with recognizing importance of Korean thought amid what the global interest pays attention to South Korea thanks to the recent influence of Hanryu(Korean wave). The humorous beauty reflects Korean people's optimistic attitude dubbed the realization of joy, anger, sorrow, and pleasure through opposition and convergence in ambivalent emotion with the superb attitude available for escaping from a stoic life. This is being indicated in the shocking form of embracing the avant-garde experiment through transforming and distorting by positively accepting humor and ugliness, which are the form of distortion and exaggeration, which strive for departing from sorrow through TV entertainment programs. This trend is being shown similarly to the tendency of giving mental satisfaction to human being with amusement while accepting ugliness as new beauty with the de-centralized recognition in the late 20th century. Accordingly, as the makeup of focusing on presenting character begins to be noted even in makeup, the similarity was being shown to the recent trend. This study is expected to contribute to continuous development in our country's makeup and TV broadcasting art field by being expanded the atmosphere of more systematic and in-depth research.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.41-51
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• 2018

Cable knitting, one of the most representative structures of knitwear has been applied to a number of knit items in a variety of expressions every season. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various types of expressions applied with cable knitting techniques to make the necessary data for planning cable knit designs. The types of cable knitting were devide into two categories which are based on the cable knitting pattern and structure. Based on the pattern, firstly, formal type is a reproduction of traditional Aran knit style and is usually applied to a practical and comfortable timeless knit product. Secondly, informal type is irregular applied to patterns and directions to highlight the dynamics of cable patterns. Thirdly, contrasting type emphasizes the cable pattern by contrasting the color of the part of the cable pattern. Fourthly, figurative type is the expression of the conceptual motifs and using the cable knit pattern itself as motif. Based on the structure, firstly, open type is to emphasize patterns and spaces by utilizing open spaces created by the intersection of cabling stitches. Secondly, decorative type is to enhance the ornamental effect of cable knitting by various methods and other subsidiary materials. Thirdly, avant-garde type is applied in various ways with exaggerated volumes or textures using the three-dimensional effects of cable knitting. Through this study, we look forward to the possibility of expressing the unique aesthetic characteristics of each of the various knitting techniques.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.1-18
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.