• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.14-28
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• 2014

This study analyzed the group of experts who were related to cubism, selected among the works of 2010~2013 Paris Collection based on F.G.R.(Focus Group Research). According to the results of this study, there were appeared first, 'a one-piece dress' second, 'H silhouette' third, 'cotton', in case of item distribution and frequency. The analysis was done by using the manner of expression, cubical expression, exaggeration, distortion, dismantlement, geometrical division of face, mix-match look, wraparound repetition, asymmetric structure, etc. Based on the outcomes of the analysis on figurative design elements, this study adjusted three manners appearing on cubism fashion style. First, it was 'avant garde manner' of constitution or 'dismantlement' which was compiled into multi-view representations of overlaps and viewpoints by repetitive use of color tone trimming detail. Second, it was 'geomagnetic block placement' which expresses cubism with geometric partitioning of surface and separation of panel by cutting disintegration. Finally, it was 'distortion and simplification of silhouette' which is a distortion created by constitution-line pressed thin with silhouette. It maximizes the beauty of human body outline, which was distorted by three-dimensional-manipulation, and simplified by ellipsis for another shape for the extension or expansion of detail trimming.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.158-175
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to Korean fashion designers who wish to advance to the overseas collection. This is done through analyzing the design characteristics of Japanese young fashion designers, Tsumori Chisato, Commuun, and Limi Feu, who have successfully launched their designs into the Paris collection and became global fashion brands. Collections of each brand were analyzed by the overall fashion style and design elements. For the overall fashion style, Tsumori Chisato used a romantic style using details with various ornaments, whereas Commuun shows minimal style with a simple silhouette. Limi Feu expressed avant-garde style with experimental patterns. Moreover, these brands expressed different style to other brands by applying Japanese traditional clothes, patterns, and Japanese techniques in modern view point. In terms of design elements, these three brands used the H-line silhouette. Tsumori Chisato used loose fit; Commuun, slim line; and Limi Feu, boxy silhouette. In the case of colors, materials, patterns and details, Tsumori Chisato showed mix & match with various colors, materials, patterns and details. Commuun used mono tone with black & white using only one or two materials. Limi Feu usually used the color black with cotton. According to the style of the brand and region of the collection, the main characteristics of the design and the application of Japanese traditional elements can be different.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.7-16
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• 2011

Maximalism is the code which has a power to interpret a fashion phenomenon expressed complexly and variously in the multicultural society. In the 21st century, maximalism which reappeared is not the expression by a method only. It is presenting the experimental design for the new pursuit through the mixture such as expansion, splendor, variety, decoration, distortion of configuration or transformation, and composition. Therefore, this study aims at analyzing expression of fashion design by four types(expansion, decoration, mixture, non-structure) materializing a feature of maximalism expressed in the domestic and foreign collection works from 2005 to 2010. The research results are as follows. 1. Expansion: It was showed artificial, formative, unique, and odd teatures through the expansion of the upper half of the body, the lower half of the body, and both of them. 2. Decoration: It was showed the actual decoration considering functionality and practicality and the decoration emphasizing and unique character and featuring domination and emphasis. 3. Mixture: It was showed through the mixture of the contrary textiles or the different sex image. 4. Non-structure: It showed the non-structure of the avant-garde trend and non-structure through decoration, detail, adjustment direction of a dress.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.139-148
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• 2020

This study classifies black fashion-mania by each type based on their motivation for wearing black fashion as well as verifies how they express their style. To achieve the objectives of this study, the research questions are as follows. First, the images of black fashion-manias are classified. Second, each type of black fashion enthusiasts' motivations for wearing black fashion are verified. Last, black fashion-mania style are analyzed according to image types. In order to answer the research questions, a literature review and in-depth interviews (total 30 respondents (male 15, female 15) were executed. As a result, black fashion-manias use black fashion for self protection, their self-images such as charismatic professional image, modern sophisticated image, body-conscious sexy image, avant garde image which is an anti-fashion norm and unique image. The strong reason why black fashion-manias insist on black fashion is to 'look cooler'. The expressions could be articulated from sophisticated styling techniques that appear to be undecorated rather than an overt decorated styling. It is helpful information to plan black fashion products and to establish a design direction that requires an understanding of why black fashion is pursued, while promoting an understanding of groups of black fashion-mania.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.101-117
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• 2001

Artist's creative works is accomplished in the very complicated network being in fluenced each other, getting celebrate from surround and center, and showing repetition and change. It took an important role of 1920's culture with new social and mental feature generated by revolution. It also has been influenced on an intellectual paradigm and artistic tendency. According to the feather the Art to Wear of Constructivism, at first, design as absolution of folk art in Russia prior to the concept is coming up to systematic design and useful article's performance. Courageous arrangement of color and rhythm is unique. The second is a tendency clothing design of productirism. It is connected with material culture and artists insisted creature of productive material that is a essential in life than Arts in museum. The third, tendency clothing design of minimalism emphasis functional aspect that is produced industrial aesthetics. The examples are simply designed and functional cloths for sorking uniform. This thesis is studied about clothing and textiles of major artists, formative property, and international reflection from October revolution in 1917 that is strengthen a system by introducing a new economic policy to a five year plan.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.50-65
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• 2009

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.59-77
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to use data from studies of headdresses which might be helpful for creating new fashion styles. Headdresses in 2010 S/S-2015 S/S Paris haute couture collections were analyzed in the following categories: years, season, brand, type, color, material, and image. The types of headdresses were categorized as hat, hood, decorative or complex types. The hat type was elegant with a modern style, and coexisted with an exaggerated avant garde style. The hood type wrapped around the head with many examples having a distinctive sculpture on top of the knot. The decorative type varied dramatically in form and materials. The complex type was a blend of all the other types with the designer's individuality being outstanding. The characteristics of headdresses were revealed first, as an enlargement of the materials category, second, as an expression of dramatic forms, and third, as complete coordination of the creative fashion image. The headdresses illustrate the designer's creativity in producing a variety of images. Henceforth they will be important as fashion items and independent designs in fashion styling.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.102-114
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• 2000

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing. Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in manifestos on clothes. Futurist fashion propagated in consummate Futurist style through the written manifesto. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Clothing, men's clothing is aggressive, agile, dynamic, simple and comfortable, hygienic, gay, luminous, volatile, asymmetric and variable. In Futurist Manifesto on Woman's Clothing, woman is now a principal agent of revolt, a walking synthesis of the audacious, performance-oriented aesthetic of the futurist universe. For Futurist woman's clothing they claimed ingenuity, daring, and economy. The Futurist Manifesto of Italian Hat was continued with their provocative style and radical ambition. Their innovation will rescue a lagging Italian expert and restore the Italian male to his former Iatin Vigor. Speed, dynamic, utility, and funtionality are the main characters. In Futurist Manifesto of Italian Cravat, Futurist cravat is called Anti-cravatta, which is anti-traditional style and made of unconventional materials. In general, the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. These Futurist fashion project were invention of the new style, avant-garde style, in daily wear and were realized for the renewal of taste in clothing design as a modernizing factors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1021-1033
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• 2009

This study aimed to analyze the expression of Hybrid in Contemporary Hair Design that is one kind of total fashion. In this research, by background of the hybrid characteristics of the messes culture art, the hybrid characteristics of the hair design has been defined as characters which is the mixture of timeless spaces, styles, sexes, unsuitable elements and cultures. The results of analysis by the expression of the hybrid hair design after 2000 is like this. As the researching, the hybrid characteristics of the hair design by the mixture of unsuitable elements and styles have been presented the highest. The result of the frequency of the apparition in the hair design molding elements according to the expression of the hybrid hair design, the hybrid characteristics of the unsuitable elements and style has been presented ideological form and the artificial form was the highest. The case of the hybrid of the activated texture, the unsuitable elements, style and timeless space has been presented excellently one after another. In the color tone, the mixture of the style, the unsuitable elements and timeless space has been presented one by one. The case of the hybrid of the image, the unsuitable elements that is the highest the frequency of the apparition was presented the image of the avant-garde, the fantastic and humor one after another.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.1 s.1
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• pp.65-74
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends and characteristics of the anti-aesthetic shapes have been expressed in Fashion Show Make-up from 1995 to 2003 and to enlarge the possibility of expressions through various formative elements and to anticipate the prospect of the Make-up in the future. Anti-aesthetics means the beginning of criticism that destroy the system of modernism and the anti-aesthetic shapes in Fashion Show Make-up have been distorted, deformed, destroyed through asymmetrical arrangement or abnormal transformation or extreme reduction or omission and so on. It means that is to enlarge the range of expressions through a new interpretation. The anti-aesthetic characteristics in Fashion Show Make-up can be summarized as Avant-garde, Satire, De-construction, Poverty, inhumanity and most of shapes show experimental techniques in unlimited method. The differences at the turning point in 21C is to increase the experimental attempts such as informal and collage and graphic Make-up and so forth.