• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.85-95
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• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.123-130
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• 2008

Symbolizing holiness, wealth and power, golden color was most effective to express the absolute power of royal family and aristocratic society as well as the beauty of magnificent and brilliant authority. Such golden color was understood as the artistic color formed in the dictatorial society as well as the society under the rule of absolute monarch. Thus, it has been used in the costume that symbolizes nobleness, holiness, brilliancy, ethnicity and future-oriented property. In this sense, the image of golden color shown in contemporary fashion was analyzed as follows in this research: First, showing the future-oriented image, golden color expresses avant-garde, cyber and cosmic future-oriented image by using diverse new materials which introduce the state-of-the-art technology sense in addition to metallic textile. Second, getting hint from the ethnic costume of many countries around the world such as brilliant embroidery using golden-thread, ornament with exaggerated technique such as gold foil, mark and character in peculiar tint, the ethnic image of golden color expressed the peculiar color or materials of ethnic costume, handicraft details, etc in golden color. Third, since golden color is expressed in ostentatious image to which elegance and luxuriousness that looks like the work of haute-couture costume of royal family or sensuality that voluptuously expresses the beautiful body line of women are added, the viewers are enchanted or attracted.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.251-268
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• 2018

This study suggests a fashion design using aesthetic characteristics of works by Kate MccGwire, a modern sculptor paying attention to soft sculpture materials such as feathers. In this research on MccGwire works, their internal meanings may be derived as the dualism of familiarity, movement and consciousness. Works also have aesthetic characteristics of overlapping, fluidity and twist. Using such characteristics, 4 one piece dresses and 2 vest dresses were made. Research findings are as follows. First, aesthetic characteristics of MccGwire works could be expanded into expressive areas of silhouettes and details in fashion. Second, visual flow and concentration could be expressed by gradual coloration of feather colors. Third, dart manipulation could be applied naturally by details and curve silhouettes of fashion design. Fourth, touch of feather material could be expressed fully by leaving the edge of garments raw. Fifth, spatiality of fashion could be implemented partially by applying decorative saddle stitching to costume design details. This study explored a potential of soft sculpture occurred during a transitional process of objet pursued by 20th century's avant-garde artists applicable to fashion design ideas that suggested methods for contemporary creative design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.213-228
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.239-255
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• 1998

Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.143-157
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• 2000

The pastiche is one of the most unique characteristics in the post-modern period. The pastiche fashion design is an intentional imitation expressed by deconstructivity of the design. It has become the major creation method of post-modern fashion by expressing the image from the variety and creativity. The concept of imitation in pastiche is the important fashion subject which lead the dynamics and creativities of fashion when It has freshness and spiritual energy. The values of creative area of pastiche are as fellows - firstly, it provides the delightness through the disharmony by being released from the restraint and stress of the restricted society. Secondly, the characteristics of restoration generated by development and reproduced from imitation has become an origin of creation. Thirdly, the boundary between subculture and high-class culture would be dismantled and the elements of these culture are mixed to become a unique image through its abundance and compromise vague public culture. Fourthly, the pastiche fashion dismantles the basic structure of clothes to endow avant-garde esthetic appreciation. Fifthly, the folklore fashion representing the culture of minority and neighboring countries would become a new destroying the historically fixed clue. sixthly, the reinterpretation of pastiche fashion discovers the new regulations and beauties from Imitation to provides tow Important elements of post-capitalism fashion, dynamics and creativity. Lastly the consistent adaptation of image of fashion design with strong technical and theoretical basis can establish new fashions of this era with its unique creativeness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.904-912
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• 2003

This study for‘Head Image’, which is affected by individual Image, is via fashion collection to analyze formative feature, fashion emotion and meaning structure of emotion and to inquire into correlation. I will offer fundamental data, which is can use Image making from the state of thing. First, to make charm and personal image, if we consider Head image well, it will very effective by the reason that personality and charm operate as important factors in fashion sensibility of Head Image. Second, we can know Head Image has more strong influence the part of emotion than fashion sensibility by showing that the sense of emotion is higher than this point of view of fashion sensibility in Head Image. Third, As a result of the correlation of fashion sensibility and emotion in Head Image, personal Head Image is effective to attract public gaze by causing negative emotion, and attractive Head Image is effective to give pleasant feeling by causing positive emotion. Forth, Avant-garde, Punk, Kitsch Image were estimated as the most personal things and Romantic, Ethnic Image were estimated as the most attractive things of the type of Head Image. Natural Image was estimated as the most feminine thing, and Elegant Image was estimated as the most mature thing. Fifth, when we look into the different appraisals between experts and amateurs about fashion sensibility and emotion of Head Image, a selection of experts are used to peculiar and strong Head Image, so amateurs respond it more sensitively and highly evaluate.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.783-794
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• 2001

This research focuses its study on the expressions of the visual images of the fashion illustration as a part of visual art and utilizes it to formulate the theoretical basis. Main findings of our research are as follows: The structure of communications in the fashion illustration is based on the four elements. They are the expression of the texture, drawings, composition, and the human body and dress. The characteristics in expression of texture level in fashion illustration can be the expression of creative texture in pattern or crease, and also can be expressed as various collage and photomontage by computer graphics. Secondly, the analysis on the characteristics of the drawings show that the drawing skills are imagination and sequential drawings. Thirdly, the characteristics of composition method are mainly shown as the application of plane composition which was previously used in avant-garde arts. Fourthly, most of the human body in the fashion illustrations are shown as the results of simplification, exaggeration and deformation in human body and also expressed or analyzed by the method of the body modification. Based on the above findings of this research we conclude that the way of expression in the fashion illustration is very similar in its composition as in visual art. However, they also show differences between the two in expression method or the method for the image development in specific expressions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권8호
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• pp.1253-1261
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• 2009

The paper-folding effect of origami signifies a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in a more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, and an absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body. Origami inspiration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores a trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. This study inquires on the influence of origami as a method to create new vestmental space in contemporary fashion. The flat-plane clothes of origami-inspired design are no longer cut to the body and the clothes could be altered by the wearer. The space is introduced in between a three-dimensional dress-body and the body. Origami-inspired design in Japanese avant-garde fashion deconstructs the convention and promotes a symbiosis of body and clothing instead. The shape of the body is completely estranged by three-dimensional sculptures, alluding to the paper folds of origami and the movement of the body that are transmitted to the clothing through fine folding that transform into an unexpected event.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.25-32
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze formative features of women shoes, to develop distinctive shoes design for coming fashion trend. the methods of this study are documentary research and case study. In the theoretical study, this study has catched the origin of shoes and the changes of shoes design of each era. for the study of formative features of women shoes in 1990's, 215 kinds of pictures have been selected from in professional shoes magazines. The results of analysis are as follow. Woman shoes categorized the design factors into shape, material, decoration. Reformational shape that reconstructs old shape of shoes by comtemporary aesthetic, shape in that dual images were mixed, re-created shape that was constructed through the reconstruction of structures and shapes of shoes. Material image was strengthened by varying patterns of unburned calf, leopard and zebra. Avant-garde was appeared by using naturalistic material to represent natural beauty or using merry, daring material. Post-modern tendency was appeared like using brassiere strap instead of back strap or using round string in elegant shoes.