• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.79-96
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• 2012

Creativity is a rising topic in the current society. The emphasis on creativity is valued as a key factor for success in all areas including but not limited to politics, economy, culture, arts and design. The field of Fashion design is probably one of the few areas that talk about creativity as a necessary quality to survive. The purpose of this study is to introduce TRIZ(Teoriya Reshniya Izobretatelsskikh Sadatch) as a theoretical tool to generate creativity in fashion design. TRIZ is a creative method of problem solving based on data analysis of outcomes invented by engineering. The fundamental concept of TRIZ has been researched through documentary studies, and practical case studies of product designs are used. Fashion design cases from Comme des Garcons by Rei Kawakubo are used to apply TRIZ in fashion design. Rei Kawakubo's design philosophy has been studied through fashion writings and visual sources in books, exhibition catalog, www. style. com and online shopping mall sites. This study has selected four principles among forty inventive theories of TRIZ: segmentation; asymmetry; consolidation; and preliminary action to apply to Rei Kawakubo's fashion design. As a result, TRIZ can be applicable to fashion design as a creative thinking methodology. By using the four principles of TRIZ, this study shows how Rei Kawakubo's design enhanced its efficiency and aesthetics of the products and was distinguished from existing items. It is meaningful to demonstrate a possibility of adopting engineering based creative methodology in fashion design to widen the perspective and to raise a question for the need of interdisciplinary creative methodology with traditional aesthetic approach in fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.57-66
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• 2003

With the occurrence of interest in image-presentation that helps express one's individuality in several place in our society, it has affected make-up field. Now, make-up is getting to be recognized as a key role player that reflects our social and cultural concerns not only by presenting a appropriate one that is proper when to use and what for, but also presenting individualistic images that are able to express one's attractiveness free from a last plain concept that meant merely applying cosmetics to one's face is makeup. Like above, the reason that a change for consciousness of the function of make-up was possible is a noticeable outcome that results from the difference before and after make-up. In other word, with the help of Corrective Make-up that makes use of optical illusion, the analytic research for features could have been carried out systematically, therefore, women get to present their beauty of innate facial shape and features at their pleasure. The basic principles of the Corrective Make-up, which was introduced to satisfy the purpose of the existing make-up take advantage of lines and colors that are part of the optical illusion. The nature of direction and movement was expressed by the direction and angle of lines and the colors are also able to induce the variation of images depend on the whole color around them or contrastive color around. This thesis is mainly about optical illusion through lines that are part of elements that induce the optical illusion and deals with phenomena that occur when we apply lines that are part of design into the make-up. And this is written for the purpose of establishing the last basis of make-up more scientifically and systematically through the research for the variation when we apply the nature of lines into our features and deriving facial image variation from it. This is also for study into the role of make-up as for psychological effect that is able to make facial images look different when the optical illusion with possible visual errors is applied into it. In conclusion, we can say "Make-up is optical illusion through visual elements such as lines, surfaces, books, touch and so on."

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.157-175
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to establish a theoretical concept of nudism from sociocultural context, to examine its formative characteristics, to analyze the cultural meaning of nudism style showing in the 2000's fashion world, and to analyze and examine its aesthetic qualities. The way of a study was based on analysis and review on philosophy, aesthetics, sociology, popular culture and various documents at home and abroad and previous study and research materials about art and clothes for theoretical study. Also, we carried out a case study by analyzing photo data from fashion books, magazines and internet websites, considering the body and dress as visual objects. The summary and conclusions of this study are as follows: 1. Nudism of the sociocultural context was divided into change of understanding of the body and liberation of the body; naturalism; resistant culture; psychoanalysis context. 2. The formative characteristics of nudism style in fashion are classified in Exposure, Transparency and Body Conscious. 3. The cultural meaning of nudism style expressed in the 2000's fashion are sexual opening, surfeit of mass media, pursuit of naturalism, lookism, and individualism. 4. Nudism style expressed in 2000's fashion is drawn as three aesthetic qualities: Eroticism, Primitivism and Futurism. First, Eroticism of nudism style fashion which seeks for sexual stimulus is classified in Sensualism, Provocation and Innocence. Second, Primitivism of nudism style fashion which tends towards naturalism objecting to mechanic and digital civilization and hoping for return to the origin is classified in Primitivism, Naturalism and Sensualism as per aesthetics qualities. Futurism which is the nudism style presenting futuristic expression through using a new material is analyzed as High Technology, Cyber Sexism and functional Future.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.12 no.11
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• pp.617-623
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• 2014

This study aims to organize the pharmacological component of native chicken(NC) by analyzing the bill presented in traditional medicine NC relevant literature. And the analyze the heterogeneity and the common prescription of chicken that a variety of traditional technologies to existing treatment books private data to organize information about the scientific verification. After the analysis by building a DB and want a prescription to traditional book, herbal medicine usability throughout the assessment of the special treatment provided the basis for further product and a variety of functional food development. In addition, the continued expansion of the country and future growth engine industry related businesses through added value of cultural knowledge resources. NC of the relevant search and information system for prescription knowledge. so standardized, conceptualization, formalization is to build a knowledge of traditional medicine NC recipe DB assess the usefulness of medical literature through interdisciplinary research systems to suggest practical ways of alternative medicine and functional food development.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.441-456
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• 2016

This study considers the modern expression of oriental esthetics by analyzing the fashion design with the Chinese ink technique based on the concept of Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, which was regarded as the best rule of art creation in oriental history. This study was performed by conducting a literature review of related books and advanced studies, and then, collection analysis was done with photos derived from fashion websites (seoulfashionweek.org, chinafashionweek.org, vogue.com, firstview. com) from 2010 S/S to 2016 S/S. A total of 317 fashion photos of designs created using the Chinese ink technique by Korean designers at Seoul Fashion Week and Chinese designers at China Fashion Week were analyzed. The contemporary fashions created with the Chinese ink technique were characterized by, first, the bold brush strokes and natural spreading effects of Chinese ink, second, the emphasis of empty space by taking essential elements, and third, the coexistence of deep Chinese ink colors with modern primary colors. The formativeness of the contemporary fashions created with Chinese ink technique based on Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung were as follows: first, temperance, pursuing spiritual and minimal expression, second, empty space, making design elements interact and pursue harmony, third, changeable rhythm, symbolizing the growth and variation revealing the power of life, and fourth, vitality, represented in the rhythmical movement of the brush. This study was based on the oriental esthetics inherent in Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, and it attempted to analyze contemporary fashion design. The aim was to show the possibility of modern applications to traditional values, and it can be a meaningful case in design planning based on culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.991-1002
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• 2010

Nowadays, personal media is a new tool for communication as digital cameras and mobile phones are developing rapidly. We are concerned over Cyworld users who could have different personal characteristics which will influence on buying patterns in on line shopping behaviors. The purpose of this research was to observe fashion attitudes and purchase behavior of Cyworld mini homepage users, for establishing marketing strategies by understanding consumers. For this study, one line survey was used for 500 male and female subjects who are 20 to 40 years old. Only reliable 441 questionnaires were used for analysis. The SPSS program was used for frequency, K-means cluster, t test, and chi-square test. A total of 441 respondents were clustered on the basis of 8 item self-disclosure scale, using the K-means procedures. The results indicated that respondents were clustered into two segments; 267 respondents(active attitude towards self-disclosure) and 164 ones(not active). We examined fashion attitudes in mini home page and buying behavior by self-disclosed variable. Those who are involved actively in self expression and self-disclosure considered more fashion style and trend. The major motivates of web surfing was finding a good design, and good price. High self-disclosure group tends to search many shopping mall for right design and low self disclosure group tends to search them for the right price. High self-disclosure group tend to shop the fashion products more, while low self disclosure group tend to purchase books more through the internet. We realized that active group in self-disclosure purchased their clothing accidently when they visit Cyworld.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.147-156
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• 2015

Lately, unique hats, which worn by iconic figures in fashion industry, like Anna Piaggi and Isabella Blow to express the originality and self-awareness, received attention from the mass media along with their styles. The purpose of this research is to investigate, analyze, and media-specific characteristics of objet hats which are used to show various items, shape up targets, and express the concept of attires. In order to fulfill this, this study focuses on objet hat designers who have been influential from the 1980's to recent years. As for the research methodologies, this study conducts investigating examples from fashion related books, research papers, and websites along with literary research. Study of objet hat is based on cases and works of designer in objet hat in contemporary fashion expression shape. As a result, objet hat, First, the experimental work to maximize the effectiveness as a fashion objet containing the concept of designer in the runway shows. Second, as pieces displayed on art galleries and museums, objet hats are recognized as artistically defined world of conceptual designers' imaginations. Third, objet hats function as ways of celebrities' expression, who affects the public as fashion leaders. Lastly, objet hat designers's activities operate the story and notion contained in the work through a variety of genres. Objet hats, an independent fashion genre, which symbolize creativity and freedom, influenced the fashion industry with astonishing materials, forms, and decorations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.3 s.162
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• pp.451-462
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is 1) to find out the dominant clothing ornaments in Europe in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, 2) to examine the changes of such clothing details as neckline and collar, sleeve and stomacher from 16th to 18th century 3) and to classify the ornaments of these 3 centuries according to Yin and Yang's traits. An analysis was conducted of 405 pieces of art out of 10 books of costume history. Of these pieces, 121 were from the Renaissance era, 107 were Baraque and 177 were Rococo. The analysis found that the distinctive ornaments in 16th century were ruff, slash, chain and girdle decoration. The distinctive ornaments of Baroque period were tassel, fringe, loop and binding. The Rococo period were distinguished by falbala, sash belt and fabric necklace. With regard to the changes over the 3 centuries necklines changed from high to lower. Sleeves became shorter. Stomacher which was long and sharp became wider and shorter. As to the Yin and Yang's traits there was also an evolution. Renaissance costume with Yang's style was decorated mostly Yang influenced ornaments. Baroque clothing was a mixed of Yin and Yang, as were the ornaments. By Rococo both clothing and ornaments reflected Yin's traits.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Library and Information Science
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.185-208
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to understand the value of Fahrenheit 451 by Ray Bradbury as the second most favored 'One Book', and the goals of the communities which selected this particular book. A total of 53 'One Book' programs from 2001 through 2014 and 136 TBR programs from 2007 through 2015 selected this book as 'One Book' to read. In this study, 270 programs in TBR 2008/09, and more than 240 programs in TBR 2014/15 and several 'One Book' projects were analyzed. The results confirm the significance of book discussions and movie showing, the focus on such subjects as censorship, banned books, and freedom of expression, etc., and a close relationship between the diversity of programs and cooperation with community members.