• 한국의사학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2018

As Korea's representative medical text, "Donguibogam" reveals Korean Medicine's unique perspective on the human body. The text also contains abundant resources related to skin, leading to diverse researches on the subject today. In this paper, authors tried to elicit values of "Donguibogam" in the general cosmetics field, through literature review. First, prescriptions related to main functions of modern cosmetics (anti-aging, whitening, and moisturizing) were classified. In relation to anti-aging, concepts such as 返老 (reversing aging), 還童 (to become young again), 皺 (wrinkle), and 皮急 (tense skin) were extracted and 69 examples of treatments were introduced. For whitening care, 41 treatments were mentioned on hyper-pigmentation and general complexion. Concepts related to moisturizing included expressions such as 潤肌膚 (hydration of skin) and 光澤 (glow), induced by 48 treatment prescriptions. Second, cosmetics related prescriptions were classified according to the application methods of modern cosmetics. 78 prescriptions of cleansing category included washing-off local area with herbal liquid, bathing, washing-off after steaming, and soaking the body in the herbal liquid. Total of 308 topical application prescriptions covered the conditions of various skin inflammations, scalp illnesses, and etc. In conclusion, this research examines the value of "Donguibogam" as a useful of skincare. Further studies are expected to extend our understanding of the field.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제15권7호
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• pp.4416-4422
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• 2014

오존층의 파괴와 증가하는 야외활동으로 인한 자외선의 노출을 최소화 하기위해 자외선 차단제는 필수적인 것이 되고 있다. 기존에 사용되는 자외선 차단제의 기능을 향상시키며 부작용을 줄이기 위해 천연식물과 같은 친환경적인 소재의 개발이 필요한 실정이다. 본 연구는 천연물을 활용한 자외선차단제 및 기능성 화장품 소재 개발을 위해 미세조류(Chlamydomonas hedleyi.)로부터 Mycosporine-like amino acid (MAA)를 분리 정제하고 그 효능을 평가하고자 하였다. 미세조류에서 분리 정제한 MAAs 중 shinorine을 분리하여 UV에 의한 피부세포의 손상을 막고, 염증과 관련 있는 단백질의 발현을 저해하는지를 평가하였다. 그 결과 shinorine이 피부세포가 UV에 의해 손상되는 것을 보호하여 cell viability가 10% 증가하였고, 염증관련 단백질인 COX2이 발현이 41%정도 감소하는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 콜라겐의 합성을 증가시켜 주름개선 효능을 확인하였다. 이에 shinorine은 자외선 차단용 소재뿐 아니라 항노화 관련 제품의 소재로 가능성을 확인하였다.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.352-373
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• 2003

Rhamnose-rich (RROP-s) and fucose-rich (FROP-s) oligo-and polysaccharides were prepared and extensively characterised by physical and chemical procedures [1,2] and compared to L-fucose. Their biological properties were then studied on human skin fibroblast cell cultures, human skin explant cultures and on hairless rat skin, using a variety of cell-biological, biochemical and computerised morphometrical procedures. Among the most important properties we could establish, the following are of particular interest for the tretment and prevention of age-dependent modifications of human skin (loss of skin-tissue, cells and matrix, wrinkle formation and others) : stimulation of cell proliferation (by $^3$[H]-thymidine incorporation and the MTT test), scavenging of reactive oxygen species (ROS) using several different procedures, and protease (MMP-2 and MMP-9) down-regulation. A topical preparation, using RROP-s and FROP-s, and/or L-fucose, was shown to increase cell proliferation, dermal matrix synthesis, efficient scavenging of ROS-s and to increase also the thickness of dermal tissue when applied for 4 weeks on hairless rat skin, accompanied by the densification of collagen bundles as well as by an increase of elastin synthesis. Using fluorescent labeled FROPs, it could be shown that these oligosaccharides react with cell-membrane receptors and especially with the elastin-laminin-receptor and the fucose-mannose receptor, but they penetrate also in the cell nucleus, suggesting the possibility of a direct action on the regulation of gene expression. When applied to the human skin of a team of voluntary women encompassing all age-groups, the efficiency of FROP-containing preparation could be confirmed using indentometry and computerised evaluation of skin micro-relief, as well as evaluation of periorbital wrinkles. It appears therefore that these preparations correspond to all the requirements of active anti-aging principles.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.61-72
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• 2003

In cosmetic area, retinol is prominent ingredient for anti-wrinkle but unstable against light, heat, oxygen and so on. Therefore the stabilization of retinol is required. Here, we capsulated doubly retinol in the SLM(Skin Lipid Matrix) that makes three dimensional lamellar structure similar to skin, after formation of primary liposome (retinol-nanoemulsion). First, we make primary liposome from retinol / hydrogenated lecithin / polysorbate20 / caprylic ＆ capric triglyceride / ethanol / and so on, and the mean diameter to 70 nm, using microfluidizer passed three times at 800 Bar, repeatedly. Then we produce DC-liposome (doubly capsulated-liposome) that was encapsulated primary liposome with SLM made of hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline / caprylic ＆ capric triglyceride / 1, 3-butylene glycol / ceramide3 / cholesterol /etc. We measured for color stability against light and heat with chromameter. As a result of this experiment, we observed DC-liposome was more than from 1.5 to 3 times as stable as general liposome. Livability of retinol has improved from 2 to 6 times when we analyzed it by HPLC. Also, penetration effect of DC-liposome has improved.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.125-136
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• 2019

The radish skin and radish greens are an edible part of the radish. But they are removed before eating the radish and used as a byproduct or an animal feed material because of their tough and rough texture. Melanin is a pigment that gives colour to our skin. But increased production of melanin can turn into benign or malignant tumours. These days due to global warming, the amount of Ultra violet (UVB) rays has been extensively increased with sunlight. Due to this, a phenomenon called exogenous photo aging is widely observed for all skin colour and types. As a result of this phenomenon, a set of enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases (MMP's) that serves as degradation enzymes for extracellular matrix proteins mainly collagen is increased, causing depletion in collagen and resulting in early wrinkles formation. Therefore in our study we used the murine melanoma cell line B16/F10 to study the melanogenesis inhibition by Heated radish extract (HRE) in vitro and we used HRM-2 hair less mice exposed to artificial UVB for checking the efficacy of Heated radish extract in vivo. Furthermore, we prepared a 3% Heated radish extract (HRE) cream and checked its effects on human skin. Our results have clearly demonstrated that Heated radish extract (HRE) have potently suppressed the tyrosinase activity and melanin production in B16/F10 cells. It had also reduced the expression of components involved in melanin production pathway both transcriptionally and transitionally. In in vivo studies, HRE had potently suppressed the expression of MMP's and reduced the wrinkle formation and inhibited collagen degradation. Moreover, on human skin, ginseng cream increased the resilience, skin moisture and enhanced the skin tone. Therefore in light of these findings, we conclude that HRE is an excellent skin whitening and antiaging product.

• 융합정보논문지
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• 제11권8호
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• pp.212-223
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• 2021

본 연구는 스피큘이 함유된 화장품을 피부에 적용하였을 때 안전한지를 평가하고, 기능성 활성 물질이 담지된 다이아몬드-스피큘이 경피흡수를 높이면서 피부에는 효율적으로 투과되어 그 효능이 잘 나타나는지 검토하는 데 목적을 두었다. 이를 위하여 30~60대 여성 30명을 대상으로 각 시험군에 따른 화장품을 4주간 피부에 적용하여 주관적으로 느끼는 피부 자극 및 피부 변화 여부를 설문지를 통하여 조사하였다. 그 결과 스피큘을 함유한 화장품이 일반 화장품과 비교하여 피부에 더 안전하였으며, 특히 다이아몬드-스피큘 함유화장품의 경우는 항주름, 탄력, 보습, 미백, 염증 완화 및 예민함 등이 시험 전과 비교하여 월등하게 개선되었다고 통계적으로도 유의미한 응답을 하였다(p<.001). 이로써 스피큘이 함유된 화장품이 피부에 안전하며, 기능성 활성 물질이 담지된 다이아몬드-스피큘이 경피전달시스템의 기능뿐 아니라 담지된 활성 물질이 피부에 효율적으로 투과될 수 있는 다기능성 화장품 소재로의 활용도 가능함을 확인하였다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.275-286
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• 2008

본 연구에서는 굴피나무 수피 추출물의 항산화, 미백 및 주름생성억제에 관한 효과를 측정하였다. 추출물의 free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) 소거활성($FSC_{50}$)은 50% 에탄올 추출물($6.75{\mu}g/mL$) < 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획(6.62) < ethyl acetate 분획(4.15) 순으로 증가하였다. Luminol-의존성 화학발광법을 이용한 $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ 계에서 생성된 활성산소종(reactive oxygen species, ROS)에 대한 총항산화능은 ethyl acetate 분획($OSC_{50}$, $0.56{\mu}g/mL$) < 50% 에탄올 추출물(0.02) < 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획(0.01) 순으로 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획에서 가장 큰 활성을 나타내었다. 굴피나무 추출물에 대하여 rose-bengal로 증감된 사람 적혈구의 광용혈에 대한 보호효과를 조사하였다. 50% 에탄올 추출물의 경우 농도 의존적($1{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$)으로 광용혈을 억제하였다. 특히 ethyl acetate 분획은 $10{\mu}g/mL$ 농도에서 ${\tau}_{50}$이 717.27 min으로 매우 큰 세포보호 활성을 나타내었다. 미백 및 주름억제 효과측정으로는 각각 tyrosinase와 elastase의 활성 저해 효과를 측정하였다. Tyrosinase의 활성 저해 효과($IC_{50}$)는 50% 에탄올 추출물 ($243.98{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate 분획(153.87) < 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획(137.53) 순으로 나타났고, elastase의 활성 저해 효과($IC_{50}$)도 50% 에탄올 추출물($31.01{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate 분획(14.42) < 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획(1.48) 순으로, aglycone 분획이 매우 큰 활성 저해 활성을 나타내었다. 또한 굴피나무 추출물 중 ethyl acetate 분획을 함유하는 크림을 제조하고, 이를 피부에 도포한 후, 피부 수분 보유량, 경표피 수분 손실량 그리고 미백효과를 측정하였다. 추출물 함유 크림은 대조군(placebo)보다 수분 보유량을 $2{\sim}8%$ 증가시켰고, 경표피 수분 손실량은 감소시켰다. 또한 추출물 함유 크림은 대조군에 비해 멜라닌 생성을 9.55% 감소시켰다. 이상의 결과들은 굴피나무 추출물이 항산화 활성과 더불어 ROS에 대항하여 세포막을 보호함으로써 생체계, 특히 태양 자외선에 노출된 피부에서 항산화제로서 작용할 수 있음을 가리키며, tyrosinase 및 elastase의 활성 저해 효과와 이를 통한 인체 시험의 결과로부터 미백 기능성 화장품 원료로서 응용 가능성이 있음을 시사한다.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.85-94
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• 2007

The objective of this study is to prepare a stable delivery systems containing polyethoxylated retinamide(PERA) - derivatives of retinoic acid, effective anti-wrinkle and anti-acne agent. Cubic liquid crystalline phase gel (CLCPG) and cubosomes containing various concentrations of PERA were prepared to investigate the physicochemical properties. Furthermore, stability and transdermal absorption efficacy of the CLCPG containing PERA were investigated in comparison with oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions which are predominantly used as a topical formulation. CLCPG increase the stability of PERA in comparison with O/W emulsion. For tropical application, CLCPG containing PERA shows higher moisturizing effect than that of O/W emulsion. In skin permeation test, CLCPG shows higher PERA deposit on epidermis. With its specific physicochemical property caused by the glyceryl oleate, CLCPG itself could be used for stabilizer of various actives and applied as an effective delivery system for topical application. Cubosome, nano-sized dispersed CLCPG, is also expected to be applied in a various field of industry like food, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

• 한국산림과학회지
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• 제110권3호
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• pp.431-439
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• 2021

본 연구에서 잣 구과피의 3가지 추출법(에탄올 추출, 초임계 추출, 에탄올과 초임계 추출물의 혼합)에 따른 항산화 활성, 주름개선 그리고 미백활성의 차이를 확인하였다. 그 결과, 총 폴리페놀 함량은 초임계 추출물이 11.03 mg/g GAE, 70% 에탄올 추출물이 33.79 mg/g GAE이었다. 전자공여능의 경우 1,000 ㎍/mL 농도에서 초임계 추출물은 13.60%, 70% 에탄올 추출물은 91.37%, 혼합물은 71.62%이었다. SOD 유사활성은 100 ㎍/mL 농도에서 초임계 추출물은 16.49%, 에탄올 추출물은 21.84%, 혼합물은 10.7%이었다. ABTS⁺ radical 소거능은 1,000 ㎍/mL 농도에서 초임계 추출물은 38.19%, 70% 에탄올 추출물은 80.23%, 혼합물은 78.72% 이었다. Tyrosinase 저해활성은 1,000 ㎍/mL 농도에서 초임계 추출물은 24.54%, 70% 에탄올 추출물은 36.55%, 혼합물은 15.23%이었다. Elastase 저해활성 측정은 1,000 ㎍/mL 농도에서 초임계 추출물은 15.62%, 70% 에탄올 추출물은 22.56%, 혼합물은 26.64%이었다. 피부수렴활성 결과는 70% 에탄올 추출물이 5000 ㎍/mL에서 81.23%이었고, 초임계 추출물과 혼합물은 활성을 나타내지 않았다. 본 연구에서 분석한 활성 결과는 잣구과피 70% 에탄올 추출물, 혼합물, 초임계 추출물 순으로 우수하게 측정되어 총 폴리페놀 함량 및 항산화 활성 모두 초임계 추출물이 높을 것으로 판단한 가설과 정반대의 결과를 나타내었다.

• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.604-614
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• 2020

Chronological aging and photoaging affect appearance, causing wrinkles, pigmentation, texture changes, and loss of elasticity in the skin. Phragmites communis is a tall perennial herb used for its high nutritional value and for medicinal purposes, such as relief from fever and vomiting and facilitation of diuresis. In this study, we investigated the effects of ethanol extract of P. communis rhizome (PCE) on skin aging. The total flavonoid and total phenolic content in PCE were 2.92 ± 0.007 ㎍ of quercetin equivalents (QE) and 231.8 ± 0.001 ㎍ of gallic acid equivalents (GAE) per 100 mg of dried extract (n = 3). The half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) values of PCE for 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH) and hydrogen peroxide scavenging activities were 0.96 and 0.97 mg/mL, respectively. PCE showed inhibitory effects on tyrosinase when L-tyrosine (IC50 = 1.25 mg/mL) and L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (IC50 = 0.92 mg/mL) were used as substrates. PCE treatment up to 200 ㎍/mL for 24 h did not cause any significant cytotoxicity in B16F10 melanocytes, human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), and HaCaT keratinocytes. In B16F10 melanocytes, PCE (25 and 50 ㎍ /mL) inhibited melanin production and cellular tyrosinase activity after challenge with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH; p < 0.05). In HDFs, PCE suppressed the mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and reduced the activity of elastase (p < 0.05). In addition, ultraviolet B (UVB)-mediated downregulation of hyaluronic acid synthase-2 gene expression in HaCaT keratinocytes was also effectively suppressed by PCE treatment. Overall, our results showed that PCE has potential anti-skin aging activity associated with the suppression of hyperpigmentation, wrinkle formation, and reduction in dryness. PCE is a promising candidate for the development of an anti-skin aging cosmetic ingredient.