• Title/Summary/Keyword: Anti Couture

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A Study on Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion (현대패션에 나타난 Anti Couture 경향 연구)

  • Byun, Young-Hee;Chae, Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.7
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    • pp.1098-1108
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    • 2009
  • This study finds the meaning of Anti Couture in the examination of the tendency and characteristics of aesthetics sense of Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion. Anti Couture disregards the traditional composition and takes some subcultural elements, moreover, have the Anti-decoration characteristics of disproportion, disharmony, asymmetry, inperfection, and irregularity such as Japanese fashion. This study analyzed 600 works from 2000 S/S to 2008 S/S to figure out the Anti Couture to summarize the eclectic, humorous, avant-garde, poor, and minimal tendencies. The characteristics of the aesthetics sense of Anti Couture according to the tendency are analyzed into ambiguity, deformation, eclecticism, deconstruction, and artless art.

The Aesthetic Qualities Featured in Vivienne Westwood's Works (비비안 웨스트우드(Vivienne Westwood)의 작품세계와 미적특성)

  • 염혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.71-88
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    • 1998
  • This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

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The Social Aspects and Costumes of the 1980's Expressed in the Movie 'American Psycho' (영화 '아메리칸 사이코'에 나타난 1980년대의 사회상과 복식에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Hye-Jeong;Park, Ji-Hoon
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.44 no.12
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    • pp.117-126
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    • 2006
  • A movie's fashion style delivers the overall atmosphere of the scene including the characters's class, personality, spiritual world and inner thinking and even their conflicts in the story. The movie 'American Psycho' directed by Mary Harron and based on from Bret Easton Ellis's original novel ridicules the American yuppie culture of the 1980's through the behavior of the hero Patrick Bateman. The life style of the yuppie sees itself as the high-class embodiment of a particular culture, but the various subcultures such as Glam and Punk show that it is merely a two-faced culture suffering from hypocrisy and mammonism. An analysis of the costumes found in the movie indicated an exhibition of the 1980's Haute Couture fashion, which was mainly occupied by the mainstream social class and of the social phenomenon of post-modernism. The anti-fashion presented in the movie as the resistance culture formed by the subculture was in extreme contrast with the expression of self-actualization.

A Study on the Military Fashion - Focusing on the Women's Fashion After the 1960s- (밀리터리 패션에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 1960연대(年代) 이후(以後) 여성(女性)패션을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kim, Ji-Young;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.3
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    • pp.45-59
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    • 1997
  • This study, on the military fashion which has been inspired by the men's military uniform, is composed of an examination of the following; the aspect on the women's hi-fashion and the street fashion and the analysis of it's intention. On hi-fashion, from the 1960s to the early half of the 1970s, by the influence of the minimalism, maintained it's couture style, which is the formal image as well as moderating the line and simplifying the details, From the latter part of the 1970s to the 1980s, mannish image was sensed greatly by the wide shoulders with pads and large silhouette. The 1990's theme was the retro. Many different expression techniques appeared, but the trend was the retro. However, on the streets, young generation and hippies wore unisex army mode because of the influence of anti-war movement. Also, Hell's Angels, punks used black leather jacket with Nazi symbol, badge and eyelet expressed to show their aggressiveness as an avantgarde fashion. The intentions of military fashion can be analyzed as women's amazon need, the feeling of movement, and the spirit of rebellion.

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The Comparative Study of the First Ladies' Fashion Style from a Perspective of Modernism and Postmodernism - Centering around Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama - (모더니즘과 포스트모더니즘 관점에서 본 퍼스트레이디 패션 스타일 비교연구 - 재클린 케네디와 미셸 오바마를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Misuk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.8
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    • pp.14-26
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama's fashion style from a perspective of modernism and postmodernism. The method utilized in this study was first, to examine the properties of modernism and postmodernism. Next, we explored the types of role performance of the first ladies and the application of their fashion as an aid to their roles through the precedents of the research concerning modernism and postmodernism. The results of the study are as follows. First, there was a trend of formalism and anti-formalism. Jacqueline Kennedy made her public appearances wearing a formal dress in order to express the first lady's authoritarian figure of restrained elegance. The fashion of the first lady aspired to formalism. Meanwhile, Michelle Obama followed more of a free style by eschewing the typical formality of the first lady. She created diverse styles utilizing a variety of items, which were not interrupted by form or by using heterogeneous items. Second, there is a trend of elitism and populism. While Jacqueline Kennedy preferred only haute couture designers' costume in order to show the prestige and dignity of the upper class, Michelle Obama patronized unknown designers' clothing or mid-level casual brand goods that the public favors in order to interact with the public through her fashion. Third, while modernism regards totality or unity to be important, postmodernism puts an emphasis on the eclecticism by pursuing complexity and diversity through the deconstruction of an indigenous genre. In case of Jacqueline Kennedy, this tendency featured monotone clothing color, which presented a unified full set dress that excluded decoration. Michelle Obama, in contrast, mixed and matched formal dresses and a casual cardigan or felicitously mixed luxury brand or low to middle priced brand goods.