• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.10
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2011

This research compares the change in berberine content in liquid dye and the color and dye uptake of amur cork tree dyed silk upon thermal degradation treatment. Thermal degradation of amur cork tree extract and liquid dye of standard berberine was carried out at room temperature, $4^{\circ}C$ refrigeration, and $100^{\circ}C$ oven conditions for 0-192 hours. Amur cork tree dyed silk was treated in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven for 0-240 hours. The berberine content in liquid dye was measured by the relative abundance of the berberine peak in the HPLC-MS chromatograms. The color and dye uptake of dyed silk was measured using K/S value and colorimetric data. The berberine content in standard berberine dye was 2.4 times that of the amur cork tree extract. A similar result was observed between the K/S value of standard berberine dyed silk and that of amur cork tree dyed silk. The berberine dyed silk showed the highest dye uptake after 120 hours in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven. This result was similar to the change in a berberine content in liquid dye in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven treatment. The change of the K/S value of amur cork tree dyed silk and berberine content of amur cork tree extract was similar up to 24 hours. The result suggests that there is a direct relationship between the color change of amur cork tree dyed silk and the berberine content in amur cork tree dye.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.239-247
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• 2000

The coloring matter was extracted from the heartwood of Amur cork tree by distilled water. Change of UV-Visible spectra of coloring matter solution by extraction condition and stability for irradiation were determined, and the effect of repeated dyeing with condition of dyebath and mordanting method on shade depth and lightfastness were also investigated. The results are as follows : 1) Absorbance of Amur cork tree extract increased with the lapse of extraction time. λmax of color solution extracted from Amur cork tree was found at 420, 333, and 262nm. 2) Absorbance of Amur cork tree extract decreased remarkably after 2hr irradiation. 3) The K/S of silk fabrics increased with the increase of dyeing temperature, time, amounts of Amur cork tree for extraction, and pH of color solution. 4) K/S of silk fabrics dyed by repeated dyeing method was affected by pH and concentration of color solution. 5) Lightfastness of silk twice dyed with Amur cork tree extract after pre-mordanted by 8%(o.w.f) chromium acetate was moderately improved.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.8-18
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• 2004

In order to study on the color change of silk dyed with natural colorant due to light fading, and find out the effect of combination dyeing, colorant extracts of safflower red, safflower yellow and amur cork tree were used, either singly or in combination. In combination dyeing, safflower yellow or amur cork tree dyeing process was added on the top of the silk fabric was dyed with safflower red. Color change and light fastness were investigated by $L^*,\; a^*,\; b^*$ H, V/C, and Color difference. Brightness of silk fabric dyed with safflower red and safflower yellow increased gradually with increasing the radiation time of UV light, but amur cork tree was decreased and turned to dull. Color difference of dyed with Amur cork tree showed higher than the others. Combination dyeing of safflower red and amur cork tree provided better light fastness than the one of safflower red and safflower yellow.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.9-15
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• 1999

Using water and methanol, the colorant components were extracted from the heartwood of amor cork tree which is known as the oldest natural yellow dye. The dyeabilities of the colorant on cotton and the fastness of cotton fabrics dyed with amur cork tree extracts were investigated. According to the dye uptake and mordant concentration, antibacterial activities and deodorization properties of dyed fabrics were also investigated. As a results, K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased with concentrations of mordants and amur cork tree extracts. Washing fastness of dyed fabrics was very low, light fastness was fair and the other fastness were good. Deodorization rates of dyed fabrics were increased in proportion to concentrations of amur cork tree extracts. The reduction rates of bacteria measured by Bioassay tests were also increased in proportion to concentrations of mordants and amur cork tree extracts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1051-1057
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• 2008

Safflower red and Amur Cork Tree dyes have used for dyeing on cotton fabrics largely. But they have low degree of lightfastness, So this study investigated the effect of BTCA pre-treatment on lightfastness of cotton fabrics dyed with Safflower red and Amur Cork Tree. The result is as the following; By FT-IR spectra, crosslingking was proved in cotton fabric pre treated with BTCA. K/S value of Safflower red dyed cotton fabric pretreated with BTCA was much more decreased than untreated cotton fabric with BTCA. It showed that the hue of the Safflower red dyed cotton fabric changed from reddish purple to red. However, K/S value of Amur Cork Tree dyed cotton fabric pre treated with BTCA was much more increased than untreated cotton fabric with BTCA. It showed that the hue of the Amur Cork Tree dyed cotton fabric changed from green yellow to yellow. For K/S value of Combination dyed cotton fabric pre treated with BTCA, Safflower red color was much more decreased than untreated cotton fabric. But Amur Cork Tree color was much more increased than untreated cotton fabric. It changed from reddish purple, red, yellowe red, to yellow in hue. ${{\Delta}E^*}_{ab}$ of Combination dyed cotton fabric in 40 hours irradiation was 15.7, however ${{\Delta}E^*}_{ab}$ of Combination dyed cotton fabric treated with 2% BTCA was 8.0, and that treated with 3% BTCA was 9.8. So, pre-treatment with BTCA to combination dyed cotton fabric with Safflower red and Amur Cork Tree showed more effective improvement of Lightfastness than untreated cotton fabric with BTCA.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2001

Amur cork tree is natural basic and yellow dye largely used for dyeing on cotton. The most effective solvent for extract of berberine from amur cork tree was methanol. The dyeabilities of the colorant on cotton and the fastness of cotton fabrics dyed with amur cork tree extract were investigated. And according to the concentration, temperature and time of pre-treatment, K/S values, wash fastness and Hand Value of cotton fabrics dyed with amur cork tree extract were investigated. As a results, K/S values of dyed cotton fabrics were increased by Pre-treatment with chinese gallotannin and the optimum condition of chinese gallotannin treatment was 15%owf concentration at $60^\circ{C}$, 30min. The wash fastness was enhanced to 3.5 grades. There was no degradations of Hand Value of cotton fabrics treated with chinese gallotannin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.868-876
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• 2005

Silk fabrics were dyed with yellow natural materials. Gardenia, turmeric, amur cork tree, safflower, Japanese pagoda tree, and onion were used as natural materials. Color image of natural dyed silk fabrics was classified by 4 factors(Cheerfulness, Comfortness, Pastrol, Revealation). Cheerfulness factor affected significantly with color image. Amur cork tree or turmeric dyed fabrics were shown as light and cute, safflower or gardenia dyed fabric shown as comfort, and onion dyed fabrics shown as mature and simple. Color image with specialty was significant difference in Preference and Revelation factor. Preference was appeared as amur cork tree>turmeric>gardenia>safflower>Japanese pagoda tree>onion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.1042-1052
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• 2010

The Degradation of amur cork tree extract is investigated by GC-MS after treating the dye with three thermal degradation systems of, room temperature (RT), $4^{\circ}C$ refrigeration (LT), $100^{\circ}C$ oven (OV), and $H_2O_2$/UV/$O_2$ (PER) degradation system for 0-24 days. It was found that PER degradation system represented the highest intensity of degradation treatment followed by OV treatment among the four degradation parameters. The possible fingerprint products of amur cork tree dye, that yielded 68% (or higher) reliability in the NIST spectral match, were isobenzofuran-1,3-dione,4,5-dimethoxy- (8.37 min, PER only), 1,3-dioxolo[4,5-g]isoquinolin-5(6H)-one,7,8-dihydro (9.41 min, PER only), canthine-6-one (10.24 min, RT, LT, OV only), and dihydroberberine (15.05 min, RT, LT, OV, PER) in the order of higher to lower possibility of detection. Unknown products 7 (13.43 min) and 8 (16.35 min) are two other possible fingerprint products of amur cork tree dye that require future identification.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.544-551
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• 2008

In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.276-283
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.