• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1365-1375
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• 1997

Jacket is the basic formal dress for working women, and one of the most frequently worn by them. It has, however, some problems caused by movement, depending on how well it fits. To improve fitness of jacket, this study compared and evaluated the state of fitness objectively by employing a numerical system in relation with clothing and body. We made three experimental jackets based on the previous jacket patterns and used Moire Photo-graphy to measure the amounts of space between clothes and body from the overlap cross section map. The results obtained from this study were summarized as follows; 1. According to the measurement result of the pattern by using the One-dimension measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern B was larger than the other two patterns. The amounts of space of each part showed the difference of the positions of princess lines, and the different sizes of the darts. 2. From the result of Moire Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of somatotype. In addition, we could analyze the differences of the patterns with Moire Photography. 3. The amounts of space for waist part was larger than those for other parts. Pattern B scored the largest amount of space for all parts compared with pattern A and C. 4. For only waist part, there existed a significant difference in the average amount of space for the three patterns.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.661-671
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• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.407-412
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• 2005

This study is to establish the pattern for one piece dress which fits well to the women somatotype with different drop value and is functional and has high body fitness. Selected 2 testers from classified 4 types who were close to the average value and took twice dressing test. After successive correction and revision, patterns of one piece dress for each somatotype were established. M type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm(dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+0.8 cm for front and H/4+0.8 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.5 cm. A type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1.5 cm for front and H/4+1 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.2 cm. X type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2 cm for back. Waist line is W/4+2+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+1+2+1.4 cm(for two darts amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1 cm for front and H/4+1.3cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. H type; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2cm for back. Waist line is W/4+1.7+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+2 cm for front and H/4+1.5 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. In order to achieve the objective evaluation on a new pattern in this study, the sensory evaluation for both Imwonja pattern and a new pattern in this study was completed. As a result of sensory evaluation, a new pattern of this study could accomplished a good appearance in reflecting characteristics of each types and could achieved the functional superiority than comparison pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.183-195
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• 1990

The author has studied the effect of clothes design to mask the dorsal curvature that is one of the commonest changes in elderly women. Body measurements including the body type and the status of dorsal curvature were perfor-med on 153 women of over 60 years of age, and then a body form to fit to the mean measure-ments was made to evaluate the effects of various designs to it. With 31 pattern designs modified by changing in their slash lines and gathers using darts, the diminishing effect of the rounded back were evaluated by means of sensory test. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: I . Results from the body measurements 1) The mean body type in elderly women was that of obesity. 2) With the advancement of age, the angle to indicate the degree of dorsal curvature as well as the angle to indicate the posture are increased. II . Concerning to the clothes design to diminish the shape of dorsal curvature 1) Among the designs by the position of darts, the basic pattern (Fig. 5-1-(1)) showed the best effect to mask the shape of dorsal curvature. 2) Out of the applied designs of princess lines, that in which the slash line is pointing toward the shoulder point (Fig. 5-2-(1)) seemed to be most effective. 3) What has angled princess line (Fig. 5-3-(1)) had the most diminishing effect among the waist darts and armhole princess lines. 4) Among the V-shaped designs, the slashed at the shoulder point (Fig. 5-4-(1)) had the best effect to lessen the shape of the dorsal cuuature. 5) Wider angle yoke had better effect to the narrow angle one among the designs with straight yoke, and that with downward direction (Fig. 5-5-(1)) showed the best effect. 6) Between straight wide angle yoke and curved yoke, that of curved one with downward direction (Fig. 5-6-(1)) had better effect as far as the masking effect of dorsal curvature is concerned. 7) Gathers around the neck showed better effect to those around the shoulder, and the more amount of gathers (Fig. 5-7-(1)), there was better effect. 8) The design with midline gathers at the level of horizontal slash line of armhole (Fig. 5-8-(1)) showed better effect to that with seperated gathers. 9) In case of design with gathers at the horizontal line of armhole, it showed the better effect with less amount of gathers in midline ones, but with more amount in the side ones. 10) Considering all 7 different designs with better effect in covering the shape of dorsal curvature, it was evident that the design with gathers was far better than the design with application of slash lines.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제12권9호
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• pp.136-145
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• 2012

다양한 체형을 지니고 있는 소비자들에게 만족스러운 착용감을 주는 기성복 생산을 위해서는 체형 특성이 반영된 원형 제작이 필요하다. 인체는 체형에 따라 곡면의 형태가 달라지므로, 인체의 곡면 형태를 세분화하여 그 특성을 원형 설계에 반영할 필요가 있다. 그러나 기성복에서는 개인의 체형별 특징을 일일이 반영하기 힘드므로, 기성복 원형 제작에 활용 가능한 체형별 인대 모형이 요구되고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 삼차원 인체스캔 데이터를 활용하여 체형을 분석하고 각 체형에 따른 인대모형 개발 방법을 제시하였다. 30대 성인 여성의 상반신 삼차원 인체 형상 자료를 분석한 결과, 체형 특성은 보통체형, 비만체형, 마른체형으로 분류되었다. 상반신을 기준선을 두어 나누어 계측한 결과, 체형에 따라 유의적인 차이가 나타났다. 계측된 각 부위별 삼차원 인체 치수를 기본 원형 설계 시 허리다트 위치 및 분량 설정에 반영하여 체형별 상반신 기본 원형을 제작하였으며, 이를 바탕으로 입체모형을 제작하여 스캔, 모델링 작업을 거쳐 체형에 맞는 원형 인대 모형을 제시하였다. 인대 모형은 인체의 입체 형상을 만들기 위한 다트선을 포함하고 있어 기본 원형 제작 및 원형 활용에 도움이 될 것으로 사료된다.