• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.30-49
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• 2009

This study was intended to research how such Japonisme affected the western fashion and to consider that the unique Japanese fashion was implemented in the western mode as the traditional aesthetic sense got jointed with the western culture together and was expressed as the modern Japonisme beauty. The beauty of 'Date' was the aesthetic sense created focused on the noble culture of public family. On the contrary, 'Iki', 'Wabi', 'Sabi' and 'Shibusa' is the Japanese lower middle class's universal living aesthetics. 'Kawaii' is influence on an animation, cartoon and character industry as well as the whole world’s fashion style as one of the common aesthetic sense of the world people in the modern time. That is, Japanese fashion designers expressed the human body with such the aesthetic sense by the design of shape, space, fusion, amusement through clothes. It could be concluded that they created an autonomous amusement’s design world over the visual beauty of human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1737-1746
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to present a concrete image of the ideal beauty as shown in era preceding 1945 that effects the shaping of our aesthetic values; by analyzing its characteristics through the covers of women's magazines of that period, this research aims to promote the understanding of beauty of the human body. The scope of my research extends throughout the collection of women's magazines stored in the National Library and the Korea Magazine Information Center. The gathered research materials are: 5 kinds of Shin-Yeo-Sung (신여성), 51 kinds Yeo-Sung(여성) and 30 kinds of Ga-Jung-Ji-Woo(가정지우). The result of the research could be summarized as the followings. Before the 1920's in response to the violent opening, there was a trend of sticking to the traditional standard. In the 1920's, the prevalent images of women were meek and fragile. Japanese standard of beauty was explicitly indicated. In the 1930s, as Western movies started to be shown to the general public, western features were idealized and furthermore intelligence was required as a further condition. In the 1940s, preparation of the war led to encouragement of images of motherhood and natural beauty, and resistant to this trend led to pseudoclassicism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.14-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.173-188
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the collaboration and artification of the Issey Miyake fashion brand and to suggest the best course of artification that can secure the brand's value. The research methods are as follows: i) identifying the companies' strategy and flow through collaboration concepts and examples from Issey Miyake; ii) selecting Issey Miyake fashion brands and carrying out a literature review through websites, articles, and books; and iii) examining prior studies on the relationship between fashion and art. Results are as follows. The exhibition is divided into spaces for brand intangible assets, artistic collaboration with partners, art co-creation, and the aesthetics and tradition of the brand. Using exhibitions to share the artistic work of collaboration partners is expected to positively affect the brand's likability. The exhibit shares art collaborations in display cases for clothes and photographs. Artists and brands appear as an extension of the creative space and convergence design area. The artist's improvisation forms the creative space that communicates with the audience, and the convergence design area is expanded through the unifying organic connection between the various media in the fashion brand. The photographers and brands section displays the nature images of Pleats Please, as well as human and prism garment images. In these images, the viewer can perceive a story in the interplay between the human body and nature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.106-119
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• 2008

This study explores grotesque characteristics that were raised as the Aesthetics of the Ugly and how it was featured in Alexander McQueen's arts. In a methodological approach, the study attempted the analysis of historical literature that was published both nationally and internationally, along with justifiable investigation using fashion/collection magazines such as Vogue, Gap and Internet search. The scope of this study ranges from 1996's Haute Couture and Pret-a-porter collection pieces modern, to date The results of this study are summarized as follows: The first grotesque characteristic present throughout Alexander Mcqueen's arts is that it featured horrifying images or evil motives with pointy heads or horns, dark colored dresses, silver accessories, Dracula, witches, skulls, soldiers of evil, death and sickness. Second, aversion was realistically portrayed by frightening objects, extreme intimacy and motives that signify death and closely relative to cruelty to human bodies. It also became visible with physical destruction of the bodies and dissecting of internal organs, etc. Thirdly, its expression of humor is out of common sense with distorted human bodies by intentionally overemphasizing certain portion of the clothes or body parts. It also featured strangely deformed bodies by ignoring the typical shapes of clothes, vague definition of gender and using of unusual objects. Forth, half-man and half-beast images are portrayed using various types of bird species or animals to Identify disparity. It further defined this image in the form of non-human cyborg by incorporating technology.

• Journal of the Daesoon Academy of Sciences
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• v.37
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• pp.191-227
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• 2021

In this study, values of truth and good are expressed in the form of beauty, and truth and good are analyzed from an aesthetic point of view. This enables an assessment of how truth is expressed and presented as an "aesthetic" in Daesoon Thought. Therefore, an approach to faith in Daesoon Jinrihoe (大巡眞理會) can be presented via traditional aesthetics or theological aesthetics that reflect on sense experience, feelings, and beauty. The concept of beauty in Daesoon Thought which focuses on The Canonical Scripture appears in keywords used in Daesoon Thought such as divine nature (神性), the pattern of Dao (道理), the singularly-focused mind (一心), and relationships (關係). Therein, one can find sublimation, symmetry, moderation, and harmony. The aesthetic features of Daesoon Thought, when considered as an aesthetic system can formulate thinking regarding the aesthetics of 'Reordering Works of Heaven and Earth' (天地公事), the aesthetics of Mutual Beneficence (相生), and the aesthetics of healing. The Reordering Works of Heaven and Earth contain a record of the Supreme God visiting the world as a human being. The realization that the human figure, Kang Jeungsan (1871-1909), is the Supreme God, Sangje (上帝), is the shocking aesthetic motif and theological starting point of the Reordering Works of Heaven and Earth. Mutual Beneficence can be seen aesthetically as indicating the sociality of mutual relations, and there is an aesthetic structure of Mutual Beneficence in the harmony and unification of those relations. Healing can be said to contain the sacred sublimation of Sangje, and moderation is a form of beauty that makes humans move toward Quieting the mind and Quieting the body (安心·安身), the Dharma of Presiding over Cures (醫統), and the ultimate value of healing, which is the end point of the Cultivation (修道) wherein one realizes that the ideals of humankind and the aesthetics of healing bestow the spiritual pleasures of a beautiful and valuable life. The aesthetic characteristics of Daesoon Thought demonstrate an aesthetic attitude that leads to healing through Sangje's Holy Works and the practice of Mutual Beneficence (相生) which were performed when He stayed with us to vastly save all beings throughout the Three Realms that teetered on the brink of extinction. It is not uncommon to see a beautiful woman and remark she is like a goddess (女神) or female immortal (仙女). Likewise, beautiful music is often praised as "the sound of heaven." That which fills us with joy is spoken of as "divine beings (神明)" of God. God is a symbol of beauty, and the world of God can be said to be the archetype of beauty. Experience of beauty guides our souls to God. The aesthetic experience of Daesoon Thought is a religious experience that culminates in emotional, intellectual, and spiritual joy, and it is an aesthetic experience that recognizes transcendent beauty.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2002

The chairs are one of the most important furniture in this modern society, as we know that history of furniture is made of history of the chairs. Among the chairs, the stool, which made by only sit and legs, forms the basis of the chairs. The stool plays an important part in the human body to support and also help to make an agile movement In a short period of time. The stool is the minimum unit of chair, which made of least size and simple structure; therefore it fits to study basic knowledge of furniture making. For that reason, we can see occasionally the schools of furniture design departments have chosen the stool making course in their foundation students' studio classes. However, the professional study on the stool, such as the study on the posture for designing stool, has not been developed yet. This study presents basic Information of design for stool by analyzing various stools formatively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.84-103
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• 1998

The purpose of this study si focused on Futurism style and contemporary fashion in the 20th century, by researching the Giacomo Balla, Fortunato Depero, Tullio Crali, Erenesto Thayate characteristics fashion design. The results of this study are following as : The general traits of Futurism style are classified with aesthetics, formative characteristics. First, aesthetic characteristics are based on H. Bergson's life-phylosophy and F. Nietzche's art theory. Second, formative characteristics is Dynamism. Futurism Dynamism are classified with psychological Dynamism and physical Dynamism. Futurism trends in the costume : first, dynamism in fashion design, second, asymmetrical balance, third, formativeness, forth, technology, fifth, anti-traditionalism. Dynamism are expressed textile, pattern and costuem shape in contemporary dress. Asymmetrical balance are expressed costume silhouette shape and framework through the geometrical asymmetrical balance. Formativeness are agree with Paco Rabanne's fashion design expressed body and movement and phychological world of human through the secondly fabric. Technology are expressed new mechanical dynamism in used technology art and new fashion material by metal. The last, anti-traditionalism is recognized new value and idea in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.35-50
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• 2011

In this study, repression of the body is defined as a restriction on natural developments or movements and a modification either temporarily or permanently of the human body in shape, color, texture and odor. In addition, it involves physical and (or) mental pain. Chinese foot-binding and the Western corset are extreme examples of female body's being repressed in the history of fashion. The analysis of this type of repression will be based on historical research and theoretical concepts such as Darwin's (1809-1882) survival condition, Freud's (1856-1939) renunciation of desire, Weil's (1909-1943) privilege, and Foucault's (1926-1984) L'Usage des Plaisirs(the use of pleasure). Chinese foot-binding symbolically represents ideal beauty, the distinction of an ethnic group, and a desire for improved social status in the struggle for political power. It also represents psychology and a esthetics of eroticism and fetishism that originate from a man's desire and his individual taste. Symbolically, the Western corset represents abundance and fecundity, obedience and devotion to religion, the sanctity of God and ideal beauty as defined by political power. It also represents psychology and aesthetics of eroticism and fetishism as man's desire and a fashion icon. In conclusion, Chinese foot-binding was pursuit of power in male ideology but Western corset was a power struggle between God and mankind.