• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.147-162
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• 2011

The performance-art costume is a tool for expression that can dynamically display the intention of a production. The purpose of this study is to examine the whole costume for performance arts targeting musical works, to which were added such elements as music, dance, and drama, among performance arts in several genres. This study aims to consider how the symbol contained in the costume was intended to be expressed by inferring a change in performance costume and character as the stage costume. Accordingly, the following research problems were established in this study. First, Which role does the costume play in performance art? Second, into which types can the performance-art costume be classified depending on the kind of performance art? Third, what is the expressive method for the performance-art costume? To examine the types of performance-art costume, the acting costume, the singing costume, the dancing costume and the rhythmic performance costume were considered. As a result, the performance costume can be seen to have been designed through the effect of a change in color by lighting, through the differentiation of character caused by excessive decoration, through the differentiation in material for free movement, and through symbolic expression.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.599-613
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• 2004

The purpose for this paper is to find the common characteristics of Korean traditional clothing, which is largely affected by Chinese arts and culture. There are many different theories about Faking Opera＇s orgine but an established character is an ensemble song and dance. It virtually represent overall Chinese arts. There are four characters in the Peking Opera ; Sheng, Dan, Jing, and Chuck. Sheng is divided into Nosheng, Sosheng, Musheng and Hongsheng based on their dramatic skills. Also, Sheng requires various acting skills : song, dance, dialogue, act and fighting skill. Peking Opera＇s stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though it＇s style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty＇s clothing style. The rankings and personalties of the role are strictly applied to decide what to wear. Artistic exaggeration, symbol and transfiguration, use of colors are equally important in planning the stage costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.99-113
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• 2007

The performing art represents joy, anger, sorrow and pleasure through acting and dance, and is told to be a composite art represented by make-up, setting, costume and props. Therefore, it can be said that make-up is an important medium of stage art. Make-up in stage art is a kind of communication with audiences through understanding personalities of characters as demanded by scenarios. Due to the creative stage make-up which meets the character in the play relevant to these contents of the play, the conceptual study on stage make-up design for visual expression coincide with the intended character is needed. In this study, I investigate theoretical, universal, and psychological personality types by analyzing basic appearance features based on the physiognomy(face-reading) related from the psychological theories. And visualized through illustration according to personality types to apply for the characters in the play.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.136-148
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• 1998

A apparel retail buyer played an important role in the market by providing apparel products for consumers and acting as an specialist who selected the vendor and decided the apparel product assortment. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships among the vendor selection criteria and information sources used by retailers and the satisfaction with store performance. A questionnaire was developed based on the previous studies and pretest. Data were collected from 237 retailers for women's apparel living in Pusan. Results indicated that they didn't significantly relate among the vendor selection criteria, information sources and the satisfaction with store performance except the harmony of buying products and existing products. Only the age and the buying experience showed significance in relation to demographics of apparel retailers among the vendor selection criteria, information sources and the satisfaction with store performance. The information source affected the vendor selection criteria was the street fashion, the apparel of entertainers, the other apparel buyer, and the owner of production. The findings had implications for retailers as well as for researchers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.199-214
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• 2012

$21^{st}$ century customer is voluntary actor, who has hegemony of communication based on digital surrounding. They are co-creator dismantling boundary between production and spending, and digital homonarrance of digital storyteller acting on the emotion. What is more, they prove the utility of 5 sense, value, experience, and story in market. 20th century Me generation is changing into We generation, who overcomes a sense of alienation and aim at smart life style for harmonious symbiosis with earth environments. Customer cultural trends are as follow as that 1) personalization of taste and experience, 2) spreading and sharing about personal use and experience, 3) consumption centered the value, 4) retreat and healthcare, 5) counter trend comes into the reaction about the forceful major trend. Contemporary customer changes essence of the life on the ground of emotion, symbol, image, and value not a commodity, function, and logos, and demands into change about direction of business to mostly enterprises. Customer's need and desire are on the increase as various emotion and value. Therefore, change of customer cultural trend is barometers for the growth and development of new fashion industry in $21^{st}$ century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.42-53
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• 2008

This study is about the development of Fashion Design using of Korean Motive applied Digital Medium. With rapid change during the 21st century, digital media has emerged as the most important communication tool to facilitate speedy and interactive conversation. The recent emergence of 'Mass Customization' is a good reflection of digital transition's interactive features, realizing product variation and customization through flexibility and immediate responsiveness. In this so-called digital era, fashion is a tool that facilitates the use of digital media, while acting as the object, or the purpose, where digital media can be applied. This study looked at the development situations and future utilization method regarding digital fashion, which was recreated through digital media. In this study, a new design process was developed through digital media and actually manufactured Korean image clothing to reflect the motif of plant found in Korean folk paintings. Three-Dimensional(3D) digital shape was dressed in virtual clothing for comparison, thereby adding some features of textile design to three-Dimensional(3D) shape. Through the process, the study can provide various potential accesses to future development of fashion design utilizing digital media.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.134-148
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• 2008

Methods of delivering products to consumers do not act as less important factor than creative activities to create new product designs. Mobilizing various psychological elements based on human instinct and desire, fashion industry presents a product as an object of envy, gaining viewers' attention. Here, the viewer does not simply take the product as an object to view, but also imagine transformation it will bring. The study of the cause and effects of the interaction, which is found in the relationship between "the viewer" and "what is viewed" is an important factor that needs to be identified in the phase of creation as well as in the aspect of delivery. The relationship between the perceiver and what is perceived features in designs, product advertisements, related articles, and fashion shows in modern fashion, serving as a medium that enables the humans, who must inevitably exist between the two poles such as mind and body, the subject and the object, the ego and non-ego, and the reality and an ideal, to communicate between the poles. Humans cannot do arbitrary acts or make arbitrary selections only as they access to foreign things through instinct, desire, or experienced perception, and they are sometimes positioned passive by things. In the background, as there are human dual characteristics in which they are expressed as the ego and another ego who exists inside of the ego, they not only view an object, but also become an object to be viewed. Many products in modern fashion, as the objects of reciprocal transposition, grow giving illusions to humans. Having a desire for such objects is human's instinct and normal act to keep the life balanced between the reality and an ideal, which is based on the activation of reality function. Furthermore, freely acting rather than ignoring or overcoming the desire may be the act of retrieving one's ownership to the ego.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.213-231
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to find a root from naturalism to contribute the identity of Korean fashion design in the world which has universality and particularity. The beauty of nature has accumulated in our unconscious-ness, influenced to our unconsciousness, and contributed to make the formative sense. Our consciousness influenced by climate, for example, the sense of softness from soft curve which can feel from the sight of Korean mountain, land the sense of comfort and security from round rock formed by weathering, the sense of thick-ness from cotton to endure cold winter etc. has a tendency to thick and act by nature's law. This tendency made naturalism by Korean climate and linked to the sense of natural-istic beauty and became a important part forming the Korean fashion design. In this study, the researcher found Korean climate is a important factor acting in our consciousness, and influenced the formative sense. The concept of climate which is made our formative sense include topography, climate, soil, plant and so on. This influenced a lot to set up a foundation of Korean fashion design. And the naturalism by Korean climate newly created and developed shape, color, material and design. It is our duty to develope design based on naturalism to secure the competitive power against the world in this period of information and this design is getting important as a high value added method put into Korean culture. Therefore, developing Korean design which shapes the beauty of Korean nature and traditional culture will have a important competitive power in the world. Moreover, it will make a new tradition of Korean fashion culture stagnated by internationally universalized western fashion after the modernization. Also, it will be needed to develop a common design which can be agreed not only us but all the world for the request of these days of international. Therefore, this study contributed to find definite ours and found centripetal point to find the direction of Korean's philosophy and ideology. But this approach, we could secure the competitive power in this period of international and information and determine and develope the Korean fashion as a culture base, leading the world.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.450-467
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• 2014

Modern society attaches great important to state of the technology, but, unconscious desire and subconscious are also discussed in an important value. In the social background of such madness is acting as an artistic inspirational to the many people. At such a time, fashion photographs also being used medium which speak for people's desire. Editorial fashion photographs with unusual stories or including experimental visual elements unlike fashion advertising have increasing. The subject of this study is the formative characteristics in recognition of madness from ancient times until now and find out new meaning of the unusual and informal form of editorial fashion photographs showed in Vogue Italia since 2000. The analysis data of this study, we used 36 photographs of editorial fashion photographs taken by Steven Meisel, Tim Walker and Miles Aldriege. The final process of analysis made in with agreement of 10 major people. We used photograph's basic visual elements as analysis to avoid arbitrary interpretations. The content of this study is drawing in editorial fashion photographs from the viewpoint of Michael Foucault's Madness theory, Deleuze and Felix Guattari's Madness as the aspects of desire. The madness images in the editorial fashion photographs were showed as Decadence, Blindness, Violence and Grotesque based on the analysis results from above. The formative characteristics of editorial fashion photographs enabled the awareness on the value and importance of madness in modern society. These editorial fashion photographs can be the source of our wider perspectives for changing recognition of madness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.86-99
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• 2009

The audience of the performing arts enacted on the stage appreciate acting of the characters in a play to understand its plot, identify with the characters, and comprehend the message and subject matters of the play. Stage make-up in particular should assist audience in comprehending the story without overpowering or distracting the script. Stage make-up is a crucial means to visualize occupation, class, personality, and age of the characters. Thus it is an essential means in producing a high quality performance. The aim of the study is to examine character-emphasis make-up for a play by reviewing theories on the concepts and methods of the stage make-up. The methodology of the study was to analyze character make-up of the adopted play The Madwoman of Chaillot (La Folle de Chaillot) translated from the original French, as a case study. The technique and features of the character make-up of the play were examined, and functions of each factor of the character make-up depending on a role were also examined. The results of the study are as follows. The stage make-up for creating and expressing a distinctive personality of the characters in a play must integrate environmental factors external to a performance such as lighting and scale of a venue. Moreover the stage make-up must adopt and reconstruct internal factors of the play such as interpretation of the original work, subject matters, interpretation of the script, character analysis based on the discussion with a director, and design setting.