• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.626-634
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• 2017

This study investigated garment formability of the 73 breathable fabrics for sports-wear garment and their fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Predicted garment formability from the mechanical properties measured using KES-FB and FAST systems was compared and discussed with fabric structural parameters. In addition, virtual 3D simulation silhouette by I-designer CAD system wear appearance by simulation using 3D CAD system. And compared with FAST finger chart by mechanical properties of FAST system. The correlation coefficients of extensibility and shear modulus between KES-FB and FAST systems were high, however, bending rigidity and compressibility showed relatively low correlation coefficients. The correlation coefficient of garment formability of breathable fabrics between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.82. It revealed that garment formability can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties by KES-FB and FAST systems. The garment formability of nylon breathable fabric was higher than that of PET one, and the garment formability of laminated breathable fabric showed the highest value compared to coated, dot and hot melt laminated breathable fabrics. It revealed that garment formability of breathable fabrics for sports-wear can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties and garment formability was dependent on the materials, finishing method and fabric structural parameters.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1009-1018
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks patterns for middle-aged abdomen-obese adult males by using the 3D virtual-twin and virtual-garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were males who had over $25kg/m^2$ of BMI, over 90cm of waist, and over 0.90 of WHR. A total of 211 adult males who met these criteria were enrolled. The results were as follows: first, a new slacks pattern considerate of abdomen-obese men was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows: front and back hip girth H/4+3.5, front waist girth W/4+1+0.5, back waist girth W/4+1-0.5, front crotch extension H/16, back crotch extension H/8-0.5, front pleats amount 2.7, and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks patterns appearance evaluation, the new slacks pattern scored more highly than the existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the new slacks pattern is appropriate for the abdomen-obese men. Also, the new slacks pattern was evaluated allowing proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models of production through data from a 3D body scan, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to a prototypic design method in order to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.9 no.4 s.32
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• pp.109-116
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• 2004

This paper describes a cloth simulation system for dressing 3D virtual human model with different pieces of clothing. The garments are constructed of cutting patterns seamed together. The system reads a body file and a cutting pattern file and produces a new model dressed with the specified garment by using a physical simulation based on a mass-spring model. For the realistic cloth simulation, it performs collision detection and response between triangles of the 3D human model and the garment. Because the number of triangles of a human model is very large. the collision detection and response requires a lot of time. To overcome this problem, we propose a pruning method which decreases the number of collision detection and response by a space-subdivision method. Experimental results show that the system produces realistic images and makes it possible to sew a garment around a virtual human body in several seconds.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.36-51
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• 2012

Quilting, a technique to join two or more layers of fabrics, has long been used in the textile and fashion sectors. To evaluate dimensional effect of quilting that changes according to the characteristics of fabrics, 3D scanning method is employed in this study. Goal of this study is to interpret how fabric's composition, stiffness, thickness, and weight affect the appearance when quilted fabrics are used in a garment. Surface reconstruction method based on 3D scanning is used as a research method to evaluate the changing appearance depending on the material properties quantitatively with the quilting method. Besides, exemplary virtual clothing is realized through a virtual quilting method in 3D digital clothing system based on the properties of fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.613-625
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• 2015

This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts $\times$ KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.

• The KIPS Transactions:PartB
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• v.11B no.6
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• pp.683-690
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• 2004

Garment modeling and simulation is now one of the important elements in broad range of digital contents. Though there have been recent products on garment simulation, general users do not know well enough how to design a virtual costume that meets some requirements about its specific clothing pattern. In particular, Hanbok - the Korean traditional costume - has many different characteristics against western ones in the aspect of its pattern design and of draping. This paper presents a knowledge-driven approach for virtual Hanbok modeling without knowing how to make real Hanbok. First, parameterized knowledge for several fabric types art solicited using visual similarity assessment from simulated and real cloth. Secondly, based on the analysis of designer's knowledge, we defined multi-level adjustment processes of Hanbok measurements with regard to body shape features for different virtual actors. An experimental system is developed as the form of a Maya plug-in and the result shows the applicability of the proposed method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.122-142
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• 2018

In the virtual fitting system, the use of a 3D avatar is not a simple garment model, but it should be able to reproduce the size and shape of the customer using a fitting system. Although various virtual fitting systems have their own 3D avatar sizing systems and provide 3D avatars that match the size of the customer, there are limitations in realizing the actual body shape in actual use by the consumer. The purpose of this study is to realize a 3D avatar with excellent size and conformity for customer use. Therefore, this study aims to provide basic data for the formation of a 3D standard avatar of Korean women aged in their 20's, by comparing and analyzing the degree of the consumer user friendly system change of a body type, and the consumer's ability in selecting a consumer representative body type. Based on the survey data of 'Size Korea' conducted from 2004 to 2015 at three times, we examined the change of body shape over 10 years. Then, based on the results of 6th and 7th data, 4 factors of the concurrent body shape change of women of the consumer demographic studied were selected through the use of a factor analysis. Following this analysis, the 4 extracted factors were clustered again and finally released 7 representative body types, which were obtained based on height and weight. The size of each representative figure is derived by the use of a regression analysis, and it is used as a basic data for 3D avatar formation of the virtual fitting system.