• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.340-355
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• 1995

purpose of this study was to trace historically the causes of the visual inconsistency of seXual ilT'age in dress with versatile perspectives. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of sexuality in dress were precceded. To trace the factors of the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress, historical studies from ancient Egypt to modern ages were done. And then, the factors of the visual inconsist\ulcornerency of sexual image in dress were identified. The synthetic results were as follows; L The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress shows the phenomena that men introduce the traditional feminine image in dress (ex. X silhouette, skirts), whereas women do the traditional masculine image (ex. Y silhouette, pants), which arouse androgynous image in appearance. And, it also indicates that men or women wear the dress excluded the traditional masculine image as well as the traditional feminine image, which arouse neutral image in appearance. 2. The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress have been existed historically, from Egypt to modern ages. 3. The visual inconsistency of sexual image III dress was caus~d by various factors as follows; First, ideal beauty of the times which did not distinguish between masculinity and femininity resulted in the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress. Second, as a means of seeking pleasure, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was used. Third, as a means of expressing ideology, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was selected. Forth,in religious meaning,the visual inconsistency ofl sexual image in dress was appeared. Fifth,popularization of sports and occupational role made woman adopt the masculine image in dress in view of the aspects of functionalism. Sixth,Undevelopment of taloring contributed to generate androgenous image in dress.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.290-299
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• 2014

This research sought to analyze the characteristics of breast movement at the treadmill activity levels. It also examined the effect of wearing a sports bra in reducing breast displacement. The subjects for the data collection were females in their 20s (n=2) with C-cup size breast. The experimental conditions were three different moving speeds (4 km/h, jogging: 7 km/h, and sprinting: 10 km/h) and two types of sports bras. Three dimensional breast displacement was measured. The displacement of the right nipple point was measured with a 3D motion analyzer. The results show that the breasts were greatly displaced from the walking speed (4 km/h) when subjects did not wear any bra. Whereas their breast displacement distance decreased remarkably when they wore sports bras. The nipple point moved 42~44 mm in the vertical direction at walking speed with naked condition. But it was reduced by 80% after wearing sports bras. When subjects running (7 km/h, 10 km/h) without any bra, the nipple point moved 122~141 mm. However it was reduced by 60~70% when they wore sports bras. The apartment time (time delay) between at the highest point of the upper body and the nipple was 0.25 seconds at the running speeds (7 km/h, 10 km/h) without wearing any bra. After wearing sports bras, the time delay was cut to 0.06~0.12 seconds. These results implies that without wearing any bra the skin surrounding the breasts might be seriously pulled at running activity. The functional sports bra suppress breast movement. It might prevent the sagging of breasts by preventing the damage of the Cooper's ligaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.485-495
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• 2003

This study was to compare and analyze the clothing pressure according to arms movements of 4 brands jacket for middle-aged women group by measuring clothing pressure of each brand. The results were as follows: 1. According to the analysis of jackets of 4 brands, in general, jacket C had the largest ease amount. while jacket A had a large ease amount in waist, hip areas compared with bust area. Also jacket B had a small ease amount in bust, waist areas and jacket D had a small ease amount in hip areas. Therefore the ease amount is different between each brand, each size even though jacket designs are similar. 2. It was found that clothing pressure was affected by arm movements than jackets. Since this study was limited to the arm movement for motion variation, it was recognized that a significant difference among each jacket and each movement at shoulder, waist parts existed with relation to this motion. 3. Parts showing a significant difference among each size were bust point, abdomen point, center back point of abdomen level, angulus superior scapulae point and center back point of waist level. Also clothing pressure of size B91 was bigger than size B88 except Center back point of waist level. 4. Clothing pressure in shoulder point, front armpit point, back armpit point, upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arms movement increased. Also, individual variation of clothing pressure in front armpit point, back armpit point, armpit point and upper arm point was large, and clothing pressure in abdomen point was high in M5(sitting posture).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1454-1465
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• 2011

Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.585-602
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao's Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao's traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.348-354
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• 1994

Chitin and chitosan samples prepared from crab's shells under different conditions were compared for their physicochemical properties; and functionality in gastrointestinal tract by in vitro test. Their bulk density was in the range of $127{\sim}208\;mg/ml$, and their viscosity was $80{\sim}581\;cP$ in 0.1 chitin and $80{\sim}3,670\;cP$ in 0.5% chitosan solution, showing a wide variation. The degree of deacetylation in chitosan samples as determined by IR spectral analysis was relatively high, showing $81{\sim}93%$. At the same alkali concentration and reaction temperature, a longer reaction period gave an increased degree of deacetylation and lower viscosity. The water holding capacity of chitic substance became greater at higher soaking temperature; chitosan D at $37^{\circ}C$ showed the greatest value. Chitic substance with lower bulk density showed the higher water holding capacity. The retardation effect toward glucose absorption was higher in critic substances of lower density and higher water holding capacity; chitosan D showed the highest value of 38%. The retardation index toward bile acid absorption after 1 hour dialysis was $15{\sim}34%$ in chitic substances, 39% in pectin and 9% in cellulose. The retarding effect showed the highest value of 34% in chitosan D at 3% concentration.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.95-108
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• 2018

This study analyzed the body shape of the body of 17~19 years old female students using the SPSS 20.0 statistical program according to the 7th Korea Human Body Survey. Factor analysis was based on six factors including body size, body height, shoulder length, and width, upper body length, hip length, and shoulder inclination related factors. Through this cluster analysis, the body shape of late adolescent female student was classified into four types. Body type 1 was the highest body height factor, and the upper body length and the hip length factor were lower. It was analyzed as 'Long leg in the body'. Body type 2 is the 'narrow shoulder skinny type' with high hip and shoulder slope factors and low body size, body height, shoulder length, and width factor. Body type 3 showed body size, shoulder length, height and hip length factor, and body height factor was rather low 'low hip obese body shape'. Body type 4 was analyzed as 'lower shoulder long upper body type' with higher upper body length factor and lower body size and shoulder slope factor. It is thought that when the pattern is made, it is possible to produce excellent patterns by fitting the dimensions of the body, as well as the dimensions of the shoulder width, the slope, and the hip length.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.812-820
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• 2010

The objectives of this study were to classify the head shapes of Korean men and to suggest computer tomography as a new body measurement method. The 23 head measurement items of 760 men, aged more than 18 in Sizekorea 2004 database were used to analyze, measured by using statistical methods. Factor analysis, cluster analysis and duncan test were performed using these data. Through factor analysis, 5 factors were extracted upon factor scores and those factors comprised 70.91% for the total variances. The head and face shapes were categorized as 5 types-triangle, round, oval, long, rectangle. We decided for the type 1(triangle) to standard head shape since this type was the most observed. 21 participants were measured using computed tomography(CT). The measured data of skin and skeleton and the standard head shapes were illustrated.