• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.74-84
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• 2013

The purpose of this research is to provide useable data for application in American and Korean apparel company. This data was developed by analyzing information of Korean and American body sizes obtained from "Size USA Project" and "Size Korea Project". The Subjects were 6,306 American females and 1,988 Korean females over 18 years old. 30 measurements and 14 computed values were chosen that were considered critical in making garments. And descriptive analysis, percentile analysis and t-test were used as statistical methods for analyzing measurements and computed value between the two countries. The results were as follows. It was determined that American women were larger and bigger than Korean women in all measurements and computed values, except for Shoulder Slope. Based on BMI values, we determined that American women had a distinct tendency towards being overweight. Through the comparison of drop values (i.e. the difference between Hip and Bust Girths or Hip and Waist Girths), ratio values (i.e. waist height divided by height) and Body Mass Index (BMI) between the two countries, we determined that American women's figures were shapelier than Korean women's. American women had higher hip heights and longer leg lengths for their height compared to Korean woman. Furthermore, the back shapes of Korean women were flatter than American women and BMI values indicated American women were relatively more overweight than Korean women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.725-742
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• 2016

In the Korean fashion industry, 3D printing systems are considered as new technology and a new opportunity. With 3D printers, consumers can be manufacturers and individuals can develop businesses with little upfront capital. In this study, a dress form for the typical Korean women's body shape was developed using 3D technology (3D scanning, 3D modeling, and 3D printing). Ten women with apparel sizes 85-91-160 were selected from 3D body-scan data collected by SizeKorea of 201 women aged 25 to 34 (2010). First, 15 horizontal cross-sections were collected from the 3D scan data of the 10 subjects. Then, inside lines of those cross-sections were drawn at 15-degree intervals, and the lengths were measured. The average of the inside lines was connected to the internal spline curve, and the curves were used as the average cross-sections. The average torso body and the dress form of Korean women were developed into a 3D solid model using a 3D CAD program (Solidworks 2012). An output mockup was printed by the FDM type's 3D printing system (Bonbot 1200, Bonbot 3-H4) using PLA material. The dimensions comparing the 3D solid modeling to the 3D printed mockup of the dress form were measured, and minor differences were between 0.00cm and 0.40cm. In the future, 3D printing systems are expected to be in use for various personalized dress forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.68-79
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• 2009

It is inevitable to have cutting line to get the 2D pattern from 3D body surface. In this paper the efficiency of curvature plot as a cutting line in the process of flattening 3D surface was investigated. As reference, basic clothing construction line was adopted to divide the 3D surface into small blocks to make the flattening process easy. Female dummy as well as human body were scanned and surface of the upper body was segmented using curvature plot and basic constructing line. 2D tight-fit pattern was developed using three software, the RapidForm 2004, 2C-AN and Yuka CAD. Gap between clothes and body, and the clothing pressure on the body was observed to determine the fit of the clothes. As results, clothes constructed with blocks divided by curvature plot displayed a similar level of tight fit as compared with those by basic construction line. It was found that curvature plot is effective method as a segmentation of the 3D surface even for the actual body which does not have any previous reference line. It is expected that application of curvature plot will be expanded in 3D apparel technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.87-93
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• 2020

This study provide basic data to develop a dress form reflecting body shape characteristics by age and to produce a 3D body form in a virtual fitting program. A comparative analysis was conducted on the size, section shape, and slope of side shape of the modeling form by the sizing of the basic female avatar in CLO 3D, one of the 3D apparel CAD programs and the body form of women in their 20s-50s by body shape in the 6th Size Korea (2010). First, all the differences were formed similarly in the direct measurements between the 3D avatar and the body form were within 1 mm. Second, in a comparison of the section form of the avatar and body form in Size Korea, the avatar was formed in straight body shape and did not reflect a spinal curvature according to age. As a result of an examination of the items with a difference over 5° in the slope of side shape, there were angle differences in numerous body shapes in the angles of the side upper abdomen, side upper back, and side upper bust, and the avatar's bust shape was expressed more flatly compared to body form. It will be possible to produce an avatar that can adequately reflect body shape characteristics by adding detailed length and angle items by the region like waist back length and front length in producing the avatar reflecting body shape characteristics, instead of a standard body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.63-78
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to propose the scientific and rational establishment of research projects and directions for research by analyzing the research trends on clothing construction. The 689 papers in the field of clothing construction are selected among 5433 papers published within the recent ten years (1996-2005) in Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean society of costumes, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Industry and Journal of Fashion Business. The trend of researches on clothing construction is analyzed by classifying the topics by design, body type, pattern, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, and the others, and the results are as follows. The frequency order of the studies in the field of clothing construction is body type (32%) > pattern (24%) > size of apparel (13%) > protective clothing and functional clothing (10%) > the others (8%) > design-related clothing construction (6%) > fitting of clothing (4%) > sewing (3%). The major areas of research are body types, pattern, and sizes resulting from them. Most of researches are focused on women, and researches on men are relatively lacking. In addition to the deficiency of men-related research, Moreover, researches on characteristics of body types and on corresponding sizes of consumers in the target countries of export are necessary when the reality of Korean clothing and fashion industry that depends more on foreign demand than domestic demand is considered. For production of segmented and specialized results from clothing construction research, related tools such as CAD, 3D shape systems and dress form should be developed and utilized to contribute to precision of research results.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.105-125
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• 1992

The research, aiming an automatic pattern design of Korean Costume by utilizing CAD system, tried Grading, Seaming and Marking with a theme of girl's color-strip blouse & skirt. The content & conclusion of the research can be outlined as follows; 1) As we reviewed the current situation of Korean costume which becomes more likely celebrational or festival costume, while the demand of it is getting increase, it's being dealt mostly as ready-made dresses with different qualities & designs. Especially childrens ready-made ones were highly demanded to be picked up as the theme. 2) For the original drawing of children's color-strip blouse & skirt, Kyung-Ja Park's drawing method was used here, and for the substitute of particular body parts absolute size, Joo-Won Lee's standard size chart from a size-study by ages. 3) To work with CAD system we had input master pattern, drawn for age 5 as basic size, then graded six step-sizes for 1-11 years old. For add-subtract of particular body parts size, we graded through computing the standard variation among items to get the pattern developed into ready-made standard size, we can make precise plotting by grading wanted size very rapidly if we correct the rule of changed items different from standard size to make utilization possible enough with easy order method of ready-made Korean Dress. 4) We produced Marker after attaching a margin to seam accordingly by parts for each pattern using P/D/S to mark, In mass gament-cutting, the loss of time and material can minimized. In this research the apparel CAD system which has been utilized and only be western fashion industry was introduced for the design of ready-made Korean costume and utilized it in Grading, Marking which are critical steps to improve productivity and have reported the result in the research. Thus we expect that less cost, improved productivity and better quality with minimized loss of material from marking as well as from prompt and precise size-drawing. Furthermore the utilization of CAD system is considered as an effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove irrational elements in the design and production process of Korean costume as well as in terms of the study of Korean Costume development through creative works of Korean Costume.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.102-114
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• 2009

Chitosan is a polysaccharide with cationic amino groups in its structure and has useful properties as functional materials. Various end-use developments of chitosan are in progress. When the cotton fabric is pretreated with chitosan, the hand property of cotton fabric may be improved expecially for the summer apparel. In this study, as a cross-linking agent to introduce chitosan into cotton, BTCA(butane-1,2,3,4-tetracarboxylic acid) or CA(citric acid) was added in order to prevent detachment of chitosan by the cross-linking. During the cross-linking procedure, via the padding-drying-heat setting, amino groups of chitosan and hydroxyl groups of cotton, carboxyl groups of BTCA/CA are cross-linked by forming anhydrous cyclic rings. Since BTCA has four carboxyl groups, cross-linking by thermal treatment is easy, leading to the trials in wrinkle-recovery treatment of cotton fabrics. However, the high price of the BTCA reagent has been a shortcoming in the actual application for industrial use. Therefore, in this study, we tried the application of CA having three carboxyl groups, which is relatively low priced, as the substituting cross-linking agent. The hand of the treated fabrics were evaluated by measuring physical properties. In addition, based on the physical properties, three-dimensional images were introduced by using 3D CAD systems and results were compared.