• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.301-314
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• 2017

This study focused on the movement adaptability of $19^{th}$ century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic $19^{th}$ century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments' silhouettes and the $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the $19^{th}$ century western women's jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.15 no.10
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• pp.2157-2163
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• 2011

In this paper, we designed 2D, 2.5D cloth design system and a 3D cloth animation system. They make the 3D cloth animation possible by using coordinate points extracted from 2D and 2.5D cloth design system in order to realize a system that allows customers to wear clothes in the virtual space. To make natural draping, it uses for description the mesh creation and transformation algorithms, path extraction algorithm, warp algorithm, and brightness extraction and application algorithms. The coordinate points extracted here are received as text format data and inputted as clothing information in the cloth file. Moreover, the cloth file has a 2D pattern and is realized to be used in the 3D cloth animation system. The 3D cloth animation system generated in this way builds a web-based fashion mall using ISB (Internet Space Builder) and lets customers view the clothing animation on the web by adding the animation process to the simulation result.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.15-32
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• 2024

Modern fashion manifests in forms that mirror the diverse lifestyles and personalities of consumers. It transcends mere aesthetic designs and embodyies practicality. There is a preference for comfortable, highly functional attire, leaning towards easy wear. Casual wear, in particular, embraces a sense of freedom not found in standard business attire. It seeks a comfortable, natural silhouette through tactile fabrics rather than sportswear. Loose, drop shoulder sleeves enhance comfort and mobility and often become key elements in casual wear designs. Given that clothing must balance aesthetics with functionality, especially across various activities, it is natural to prioritize functional design. Research on patterns suited for dynamic conditions is imperative. The rise of drop shoulder styles necessitates the development of corresponding sleeve patterns. It is crucial to differentiate pattern drafting methods due to the resulting silhouette variations. This study aims to categorize drop shoulder pattern drafting techniques based on shoulder extension and angle dimensions. Each method will be examined, and drop shoulder sleeve patterns and wear forms will be studied using a 3D virtual system. This research holds significance in providing valuable insights and foundational data for designing diverse drop shoulder sleeve patterns, contributing to their practical development and advancement.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.137-151
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• 2012

This study aims to use the avatar sizing system of the 3D apparel CAD program instead of the existing 3D body scanners, and to commercialize 3D personal avatars. Towards these ends, the study examined a difference between a 3D avatar and actual body was determined to verify the 3D avatar sizing system. For the experiment, three subjects were selected, were measured as they were, and were made to undergo 3D body scanning and photographing. Then, using avatar sizing system on the 3D apparel CAD program, three types of virtual bodies, namely 3D avatars. The 3D avatar and actual body measurements were compared, and 3D avatars and 3D body-scanned shapes were likewise compared. As a result, the three types of actual bodies and their 3D avatars that were created based on the sizing system of the 3D apparel CAD program were overall similar. but, the thin body-YY type and the normal body-A type were different from their avatars. In the case of type B, who had a bulging abdomen, the 3D avatar was bigger than the actual body as measured. Also, in all body shapes, the girths around the chest, waist and abdomen were produced with exaggerated muscular amounts compared to their actual muscular amounts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.583-589
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• 2022

Due to COVID-19, which has thrown the whole world into chaos, it has become an era where many technologies and contents are made non-face-to-face. At the same time, the popularity of the metaverse service is also increasing day by day, and the virtual costume (avatar) industry, one of the sub-industries, is also growing. In this study, we designed and developed a system for creating virtual costumes to be uploaded to ZEPETO, a mobile metaverse service. Unlike the existing service that requires a program that operates in a PC environment, it can be produced only by shooting and simple operation through a mobile device. With the advantage of being able to process all tasks of this system in a mobile environment, small businesses and individual operators who are not familiar with external programs will be able to more easily access the 3D virtual clothing industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.157-175
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• 2015

The study was aimed to develop a torso-type dress form representing body features of the female fashion models in Korea. To fulfill this purpose, 5 female fashion models aged between 20 and 26 having the average body measurements of professional fashion models in Korea were selected and their 3-D whole body scanned data were analysed. The 3-D whole body scanning method enabled to generate a virtual female fashion model within the CAD system by measuring the subjects' body shapes and sizes. In addition, the virtual model's body data led the development of a standard female fashion model dress form for the efficient fashion show preparation. In order to manufacture the real dress form for female fashion models, 3-D printing technology was adopted. The consequent results are as follows: (1) the body measurements (unit: cm) of the developed dress form were: biacromion length, 36.0, bust point to bust point, 16.6, front/back interscye lengths, 32.0/33.0, neck point to breast point, 26.0, neck point to breast point to waist line, 41.5, waist front/back lengths, 34.5/38.5, waist to hip length, 24.0, bust circumference, 85.0, underbust circumference, 75.0, waist circumference, 65.0, hip circumference, 92.0. (2) the body measurements differences between the developed and existing dress forms were highlighted with the body measurements of neck point to breast point and waist to hip length. (3) the body shape features of the developed dress form showed that bust, shoulder blade, shoulder slope, abdomen and back waist line to hip line parts were more realistically manufactured.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.102-114
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to enable a scientific and rational approach for future research agenda setting in the clothing construction field. Through analysis of research papers on clothing construction published in domestic academic journals during the recent decade, the research trend of clothing construction in respective academic journals, research subjects, and research contents were grasped thoroughly. From all domestic academic associations' publication on garment/clothing and textiles/fashion, 7 academic journals were selected as subjects of research, in order to compare and analyze the research trend in the last ten years. The ten-year period ranged from April 2006 to March 2016, and a total of 735 papers published on clothing construction were used for analysis. The number of publications in the clothing construction area during the last decade has decreased, which is due to the increase in the number of clothing and textiles fashion-related academic journals, other than the 7 journals analyzed, and since the number of papers published in international academic journals has also increased. Body type, patterns, fitting test, and functional clothing accounted for the highest proportion of research themes in clothing construction. In terms of body type, there was an increasing tendency towards usage of 3D body measurement. In the patterns area, the 3D virtual dressing system was actively used. For functional clothing, sportswear, protective clothes, and innerwear were most widely researched, and ergonomic design together with smartwear was actively studied.