• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.975-988
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• 2012

Although the pattern development for tight-fitting clothing has been carried out using 3D data on humans, the pattern development using 3D scan data obtained for various postures still remains an interesting subject. In this study, we have developed the 2D pattern using the 3D human body reflecting standing and cycling postures. The 3D scan data of a subject was obtained using Cyberware. 2C-AN program(Triangle simplification and the Runge-Kutta method) was used in the system to reduce the 3D scan data points and to make segmented triangular patches in a plane from 3D data. As results, surface distance and area of each body part of standing and cycling postures were also provided for the future application of the functional clothing construction. The area of center piece on the front (c.front) decreased by $106.45cm^2$(-13.08%) and that of lateral piece(s.back) on the back increased by $144.96cm^2$(18.69%) in the patterns of cycling posture. The girth of neck and waist for the cycling posture increased by 0.88cm (3.92%) and 1.56cm(4.40%) respectively, and the that of thigh decreased by 1.01cm(-2.24%). The differences between the area in the 2D pattern obtained from the 3D scan data and that in the 3D scan surface data for standing and cycling postures were very small($-10.34cm^2$(-0.32%) and $-44.33cm^2$(-1.32%)).

• Korean Journal of Computational Design and Engineering
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.266-275
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• 2004

In this paper, a method for generating the planar developments of three-dimensional shoe upper surfaces is proposed. This method is based on the optimization technique minimizing the geometric error occurred on the developed planar surface. Additionally, a rapid mapping algorithm to transform a curve on flattened plane to original surface (or vice versa) is proposed. These techniques are implemented on the 2D/3D integrated shoe design system. Using this system, a prototype running shoe can be designed more precisely and can be manufactured more quickly.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.255-266
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• 2015

In this study, we have developed the ergonomic pattern from the 3D human body reflecting cycling posture and extensibility of the stretch fabrics. Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athlete's tight-fitting stretch garments by reducing the original pattern is a challenging subject, which influence on the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationships between the reduction rates of the 2D pattern obtained from the 3D human scan and resultant clothing pressure were explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by reduced clothing pattern. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using a seven-point Likert scale on two consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were asked to take five different postures including waist flexion, sitting and others. A Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 points indicating the best fit in tight-fitting pants. Comparing 2/3T-pattern with T-pattern, the latter was superior to 2/3T-pattern in terms of adhere well to the waist and hip area in the 0.032 significance level. T-pattern was superior to 2/3T-pattern in terms of fitting and wear comfort. As results, the pattern obtained from the flexed body reflecting cycling posture already included the contraction and extension of the skin while cycling posture, so that the extra ease for movement and good fit was not need to be considered. The optimized reduction rates were determined with the proposed reduction rate, the resultant pressure range was within the range of $0.5{\sim}3.0gf/cm^2$ at eight locations on the body except front waist band and thigh band.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.157-166
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• 2006

The human body, which is composed of concave and convex curvatures, makes it difficult to transfer into 2D patterns directly from 3D data. In previous studies. Jeong, et al.(2004) suggested the block method was fester and easier when dealing with the triangular patches of male's upper dress form. Although the block method is useful to make a pattern, the information(area, length, etc.) from a 2D pattern would be different depending on the direction of the block method. As a result horizontal and diagonal block methods were suggested as optimal methods for 2D tight-fitting patterns. These block methods were closer to the original area of the 3D scan data than the vertical block method. The total area of the 2D pattern obtained by the horizontal and diagonal block methods showed little differences. In case of the horizontal and diagonal block methods, the total error of the 2D pattern area ranged from $0.01\%\~0.25\%$. In comparing the length of the 2D pattern with that of the 3D scan data, the obtained 2D pattern was $0.1\~0.2cm$ shorter than the 3D scan data, which was within the acceptable range of errors in making clothes. 3D space distribution images between the body surface and the experimental clothing were also measured and $3\%$ enlargement of the original pattern was verified as the adequate adjustment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.266-275
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• 2009

Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today's apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value($K_{sh}-K_{wsh}$). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1478-1486
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• 2008

The human body composed of concave and convex curvatures, and the current 3D scanning technology which involves inherent measurement errors make it difficult to extract distinct curvature plot directly. In this study, a method of extracting the clear curvature plot and its application to the cycling pants design were proposed. We have developed the ergonomic pattern from the 3D human body reflecting cycling posture. For the ergonomic design line on the 3D human body, the 3D information on the lower part of four male bodies with flexed posture was analyzed. The 3D scan data of four subjects were obtained using Cyberware. As results, the iteration of the tessellated shell was executed 100 times to obtain optimized curvature plots of the muscles on the body surface, and the boundaries of the curvature plots were applied to the design lines. Maximum(Max-pattern) and mean curvature plots(Mean-pattern) were adopted in the design line of the cycling pants, and performance of those lines was compared with that of conventional princess line(Con-pattern). The average error of total area and length in the 2D pattern developed from the 3D flexed body surface in this study were very minimal($4.58cm^2$(0.19%) and 0.15mm(0.46%)), which was within the range of tolerable limits in clothing production. The pattern obtained from the flexed body reflecting cycling posture already included the contraction and extension of the cycling skin, so that the extra ease for movement and good fit was not need to be considered.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.189-206
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• 2016

A breast model was for the human body was devised by studying a body scan and human body index of a desirable breast type. Thus, when manufacturing various 3D models, these results can accordingly become a fundamental basis for realizing a desirable breast model. This study aims to provide a basic data for designing the cup patterns of brassieres in order to improve the function and wearing comfort. The comfort of three kinds of brassieres were compared: one manufactured by the actual measured size; another manufactured as per the ratio of desirable upper and lower breast lengths; and the third manufactured by the 3D model attained by the desirable human body ratio. In this study, we suggest a process for realizing the desirable breast model using the ratio of bust breadth and waist front length, which are the components for deciding the appropriate position and size of breast, and which are easy to measure. The ideal breast shape is an equilateral triangle formed by connecting the nipple with the center of the clavicle. After deciding the interval between the nipples, this value can be used to configure the locations of nipples by drawing a tangent, with equal length, from the anterior neck point (which is the center of clavicle) to the nipple. Also, since inside points of breast do not exist, the outer point of breast, upper point of breast, and below point of breast on the same plane, and the depths from the nipple point to the respective points, are applied to simulate a 3D image, by modifications along the x, y, and z axes. Depending on the type of breast, the length from the center of shoulder to the nipple, the diameter of breast, upper length of breast, and the position of nipple, are different. In conical or protruding breast, the wearing sensation is better when the nipple point of brassiere was lifted, by modifying the upper and lower lengths of breast. Considering the wearing sensation and function of a brassiere, it was better to leave the wearer's size as it is and use a pad within the same cup, rather than increase the basal area of the breast in order to increase the volume.

• Journal of the Economic Geographical Society of Korea
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.465-481
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• 2014

This study is about an apparel industry in Guro-Gasan where is growing up to the one of the apparel industry cluster beyond an agglomeration in Seoul. The purpose of this study is twofold: (1) to define industrial functions and roles of Guro-Gasan in a value chain of the apparel industry; and (2) to understand whether an industrial cluster is built on the local networks. This study reviewed formation and transitions of its local industries and industrial size, characteristics, spatial distribution and spatial properties using GIS analysis and field surveys. Through in-depth interviews, it analyzed the production system and spatial dispersion of the value chain to understand its functions and roles.