• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1128-1139
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• 2009

This study is on the works of Hussein Chalayan that is an expression of his idea and abstract concepts such as culture, history, time, space, nature, and humanity. The perspective of E. H. Gombrich is studied to understand the works of Chalayan who is the one of representative fashion designers in the present age. The 'schema and correction' process of E. H. Gombrich provides a suitable interpretation frame that considers the variety of works of art and the deconstruction of genre in the after 20th century. Hussein Chalayan attempts to combine clothes with other territories to show the spirit as materiality. He expresses the clothes that speaks the form of nature, symbolizes the combination of culture, visualizes time and space, and investigates the existence of human beings. Hussein Chalayan poses an endless question about the existence of human beings. He has put a question about the relationship of the human being and time, space, history, and nature. His trial to visualize the metaphysical conception of 'ego' and 'self' through his works makes him the representative designer of the 21st century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.325-332
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• 1997

The purpose of the research was influential in the fashionable dacolleta of women's costume in the mid-l5th century. The results were as follow: A variation of social environment and an aesthetic sense brought on desires to express human nature. Especially, the importance for costume of the appearance of a new spirit, confirmed and developed on the contemporary. The first symptoms of humanism were leaning towards secular art, an ideal of man at once more independent and avid for action, and an interesting applied to the individual and particularity. In addition, love affairs between the ladies and knights led to increasing interest in the beauty of weakness and tenderness in the women's body Sorel Agnas who was a lover of Charles VII, France king, had a great influence on the fashion of decollette in women's costume. It was just a dacolletta to express an ideal of beauty to neckline in women's dress in contemporary.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the Art-Deco style art and hair-style. Art-deco design, which was popular in the 20th century, especially in the 1920s and 1930s, actively absorbed new forms, materials, and aesthetic values that come from technological developments and bridged the tradition to new pupblic culture. Art-Deco style art showed and geometrical decoration tendency to meet modem concept and sense. The over all study on back grounds of Art-Deco style and its art works made possible to figure out the summary on formative characteristics of the style such as simplicity, exoticism, vivid colors, and functionalism. These findings suggest that hair styles borrow its characteristics or image from the past style to create new styles. It was found in the development of new hair styles that patterns or geometric motive appearing the Art-D$\acute{e}$eco style are the source of rich design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.559-573
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• 2008

Internet apparel businesses are required to provide various kinds of consumer information which includes both product information and customer service information. "New Age Elderly" who become an aged man in 21th century are familiar with internet and other high technological tools from their life time experience with technological development and ready to enjoy the convenience the technology offers. As a preliminary step to develop internet consumer information model for elderly consumers, this study examines the US and Korea apparel e-tailing sites targeting elderly consumers. Ten Korean sites and nine US sites were selected and compared for their provision of consumer information in terms of contents, ease to access, and the completeness of the information. Results of data analysis indicate that elderly market in Korea is not yet clearly defined compared to the US. In Korea, elderly consumer market is considered as a part of middle-aged market, and there was no unique target marketing efforts observed. Korean sites are better than the US's sites in terms of shopping information, while the US sites offer detailed information about the company, and customer service information. In both countries, fashion related information is lacking and failing to satisfy fashion conscious elderly consumers. Managerial implications were discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.299-303
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• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.579-594
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• 2014

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late $20^{th}$ century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.181-188
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• 2005

This study attempted to investigate the plastic characteristics of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion in the cyber punk movies in order to inquire into how the influence of the cyber punk taking the lead in the spiritual culture and way of life of the humankind in the 21th century would be expressed in fashion. For this purpose, it sought to analyze the beauty of new fashion creating the cyber environment and identify its contemporary meaning. An attempt was made to investigate the image of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies. As a result, the following findings were obtained: First, the image of cyber punk fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies was simplicity, which was to express the modest silhouette and details exclusive of decoration. In addition to clean and smooth gloss, it contained the modest image of resistance', not 'revolt' by borrowing the partial motive and image from existing punk fashion. The change of cyber punk fashion into the characteristic of concise, smooth external appearance brought about the restraint of its image and symbolism as well as its plastic characteristic. Second, it was characterized by the Eroticism nature of emphasizing the body line while expressing the future and modest image or exposing the body. Cyber punk fashion expressed the avant-garde image by using materials that gave a mysterious and future feelings, as well as unsymmetrical silhouette, the slit of body-conscious line, coarse cutting, the method of do-constructing and reconstructing the silhouette, the method of applying diverse underwears such as corset, brassiere and the like. Third, cyber punk fashion was marked by the nature of mined sex. It had the masculine image by using the black color containing the image of masculinity and resistance in female clothing and expressing the suit, coat and military looks giving an masculine impression. And it expressed the image of mixed sexes with the masculine image in male clothing by borrowing feminine images such as body-conscious line, widely cut neckline, floral decoration, leggings and the like. Fourth, cyber punk fashion was marked by naturalness. It was expressed as clothing made from silhouette, knit, cotton and the like in the atmosphere expressing love, comfortableness and truth. This contained the image of naturalness, a return to the primitive, that human being wanted to return to their original figure in the future element. The cyber punk movie may contain a dismal, gloomy future image on the whole, which can be overcome, and shows the possibility that it may grow into the alternative culture, not the revolting culture. The movie of 'The Fifth Element' demonstrates the meaning and role that shows the bright future image. It is thought that designers should make efforts for cyber punk fashion to perform its role in changing the gloomy future image into the bright image of society

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.4
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• pp.21-45
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• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.11
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• pp.5-35
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• 2007

When it comes to art, the two conflicting themes of 'scientific progress' and the 'nature' have often motivated the advent of the new mode of arts. By the late 20th century, uniform and simplified mode of arts, inspired by scientific and technological progress of that time, was gradually disillusioned by the contemporaries due to the adverse effect of science on human life. In this context, naturalism pursuing for harmony of human and the nature came up as an alternative to those living in the 21st century. The pendulum has swung from minimalism to naturalism. Though the quantitative improvement of human life cannot be denied, the uprise of such problems as environmental pollution and exhaustion of natural resources degraded the quality of human life, which, eventually, shifted the attention to the theme - 'revival of naturality.' Therefore, this thesis intends to represent the modem interpretation of the 'revival of naturality' by applying the major expressions of Art Nouveau that also emphasized naturalism. Art Nouveau found its motifs from organic figures of natural beings and put them to designs of decorative arts. This carries a historical significance in that Art Nouveau boldly revolutionized historicism, which only repeated adoption and modification of the existing modes of arts, and opened it to the modem design with new attempts to practical applications of the arts. Art Nouveau, which means 'new art', prospered from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, and even after one century, it is highly appreciated, reviving as novel and vivid forms in this contemporary art. Art Nouveau based on naturalism has revisited our contemporary period when naturalism and feminized romanticism came into fashion and its common motifs revive in different jenre of arts such as fashion, furniture, glass works, and jewelry works. This study illustrates and analyzes the works of four major artists who gave a specific attention to botanical motifs of Art Nouveau and applies decorative beauty of highly sophisticated and organic curved lines and the expressional forms of botanical figures to design. Art Nouveau proved this; the nature herself is as beautiful as she can be. Within Art Nouveau, the true humanism can be revitalized with the 'revival of naturality'. This study rediscovered the boundless potential of modern interpretation and application of Art Nouveau in decorative art and design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.101-112
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• 2005

21th is the century of culture. So each country create new culture from tradition, and at the hub, there is Rapid development of network which makes these things to be able. Also, Korea selected Han-Bok as a symbol of Korea culture, and also Han-Bok internationally. Han-Bok expresses our nation's emotion very well, and also, Han-Bok has universality that can stimulate on world's sensitivity. Consequently, this study will arrange and analyze the records of foreigners' feeling who visited in the period of the opening of a port as a target of our study. This study will offer materials for study in the period of the opening of a port. Also, this study will discover the significance and organization of our clothes. Way to wear it and the beauty of our clothes that we didn't even realize or not mentioned on the record because we were too accustomed to our beauty from the ancient time. So, we would like to be basic study that can make our clothes globally and appeal to world's sensitivity by finding the universality. The result of this study is as follows. First, the items of hat made us be called as a 'world of hat' so, Gat, Galmo(갈모), a women's winter hat(조바위), a fur-lined hood(남바위) and Ayam(아얌) will be obtained the world's focus. Secondly, we checked Belt, breast-tie, rainbow striped sleeves and Pocket which append vitality and movement arrested the foreigners' attention. Thirdly, foreigner's were interested with straw shoes and paper shoes.