• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.37-52
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• 2011

The purpose of this thesis is to study how Physical Distortion has been developed on the fashion from a surrealistic point of view and how it could be contributed to development of clothing design. This body distortion phenomenon has been started from primitivism times and it is still going on with various ways. Each era's distortion has been changed due to social cultural and environment matters. Especially influences of surrealism on the 20th century art transcended the limit of thought. Since appearance of surrealism 21th century fashion design has been opened up for new possibilities. There are no stereotypes no boundaries and our society is getting increasingly diversified. People in those society is longing to have another esthetic requirements. Also surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion has been produced unique design with new technology and new material. Physical distortion in fashion possess an infinite possibilities that could concoct the most amazing clothes. Also it has another strong potential that conducting us the way to produce design in novel ways. There is no doubt that surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion is absolute necessity to continue on evolution of clothing design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.145-159
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• 2007

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. As the 20th century art put premium on self-expression, the body itself became a powerful medium of expression in fashion. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the fragmentation of the body in fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in fragmentation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century, The results of the study are as follows. Fragmentation of the body in fashion means the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. The formative aspects of fragmentation are achieved through body casting, displacement, and deconstruction. The absence of physicality in fashion opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\tilde{e}}$ of clothing. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze fragmentation of the body in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.145-159
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• 1996

Surrealism was originated from the influence of dadaism as one of the new movement in the 20th C. That movement denied the traditional art form, searched the man's inner consciousness and subconsciousness, and discovered automatism as a means to realize this. In this paper, 1 studied the relationship between fashion and art trend, investigating the influence which surrealistic idea and its expression made on modern fashion. Surrealism has expanded and developed the creation of fashion for the 20th century, by supplying a new and good idea th fashion design, and in the coming 21th C., it will greatly contribute to the development for future form of clothes, carrying out the essential function of clothes, which is called the expression of human nature in the harmonization with man.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.87-100
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• 2009

This study examines black images as 'the other' in history and aims to analyze images of black female fashion models which have been changed in modern society, particularly in $21^{st}$ century post-modern world. Black images, established historically as illustrated on the paintings in $19^{th}$ century, were disseminated in $20^{th}$ century throughout the world especially by way of TV and movies as several typical images such as 'Coon' the clown as the object of entertainment, 'Buck' wild and resistant black rascal, and 'Mammy' obedient and fat black woman servant. The result of image analysis of black female fashion models, can be summarized as following five images. The first is the image of 'powerful'. Black female models frequently represent healthy image which reflects black people's excellence in sports and also the traditional Image of black skin color as strength. The second is the image of 'sexy'. They are adored as having perfect ideal body shape. They show off their sex appeal with their body. The third image is 'multicultural'. Black models represent cultures besides the western. The fourth is the image of 'fantastic'. In contrast to the real, resonable things, black female models represent wild, fancy, ghost things. The fifth is the image of 'racial discrimination' By arranging them in contrast to whites, a metaphoric image of racial discrimination can be displayed. The result shows that tome of racial images still remain on the other way.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.199-214
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• 2012

$21^{st}$ century customer is voluntary actor, who has hegemony of communication based on digital surrounding. They are co-creator dismantling boundary between production and spending, and digital homonarrance of digital storyteller acting on the emotion. What is more, they prove the utility of 5 sense, value, experience, and story in market. 20th century Me generation is changing into We generation, who overcomes a sense of alienation and aim at smart life style for harmonious symbiosis with earth environments. Customer cultural trends are as follow as that 1) personalization of taste and experience, 2) spreading and sharing about personal use and experience, 3) consumption centered the value, 4) retreat and healthcare, 5) counter trend comes into the reaction about the forceful major trend. Contemporary customer changes essence of the life on the ground of emotion, symbol, image, and value not a commodity, function, and logos, and demands into change about direction of business to mostly enterprises. Customer's need and desire are on the increase as various emotion and value. Therefore, change of customer cultural trend is barometers for the growth and development of new fashion industry in $21^{st}$ century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.209-221
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• 2013

This study has attempted to investigate the effect of cubism on fashion and figure out how its formative characteristics have been expressed in contemporary fashion in the 21st century, focusing on the period since 2010. The propose of the study is to broaden research scope in fashion design through analysis and inspection on formative aspects among the cases which have proposed brand - new fashion designs by adapting cubism in fashion. To find out the characteristics of cubism in painting and formative characteristics of contemporary fashion in which the characteristics of cubism are reflected, a literature review has been conducted by referring to domestic and foreign books, previous papers, academic journals and Internet resources on cubism. For an empirical study, in addition, photos of cubism-applied modern fashion have been collected and analyzed through http://www. samsungdesign.net. The following results have been obtained: First, the formative characteristics of cubism were obtained in following categories; character of figure, simultaneity, reiteration and facticity. Second, according to analysis on cases after applying the formative characteristics on contemporary fashion design, the character of figure by the geometric shape of cubism was observed in fashion as well. After dismantling and reconfiguring garments, simultaneity has been expressed in an exaggerated and distorted manner through regular and repetitive overlapping or overlapping of irregular shapes. In terms of facticity, novelty has been delivered with the use of heterogeneous materials, using collage and patchwork techniques. Third, simplicity and functionality in cubism - style garments in the early 20th century have disappeared in contemporary design in the 21st century. Now, a dynamic aspect is only found. Fourth, unlike common paintings, 2D textiles are added to a 3D body in fashion design. In addition, it can be observed from multiple angles depending on the movement so that it can display more diverse shapes. Therefore, it could be the origin of inspiration to many designers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.427-445
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• 1996

According as the fashion at the latter half part of the 20th century is diversified and made into high-class gradually, it is demanding the individuality of each one. Especially, since the beginning of 1980s, fashion came to represent the restoration mood in a modern style because of the popularization of post-modernism. And with this, it came to result in the reappearance of minimalism which was one of anti-culture in 1960s. In this study, this researcher grasped the appearance background, concept and structural concept of minimalism, and tried to study the influence that he minimalism had on fashion in the flow of fashion over the first half period of the 20th century. Minimalism is the fine art trend of American characteristic which quicked by the meeting of European culture and American culture, according as the new avant-grade art of Europe moved to America after World War II Minimalism which appeared, refusing the mechanisation, industrialization and mass production of America and the falsehood of consciousness and sensitivity under existing system remained obscure by the pop art which is the commercial fine art of same period, but it came to expand the domain of work possibility of modern fine art, and it became the basis of appearance of post-modernism. Minimalism has 4 kinds of structural features which are nonside nature, repetitiousness and environment nature with 3 dimensional feature which is issue nature. Minimalism is appearing in the exfcellent and future-oriented fashon of Andre Kureju t the time of 1960 well. Then science revolution and minimalism aroused the mini-revolution, and they made the compact radio in electric home appliances and the miniskirt in fashion appear. The features of minimal fashion as Retro '60' which appeared in the decedent mood with the 21st century just before on are as follows: First, the are the pursuit of concise plastic line. Second, it is the use of high tech material Third, the miniaturization in size amy be enumerated. Minimal fashion will appear s the positive confrontation from of mankind as the optimistic viewpoint about feature in the situation hat environment was destroyed and the resources were exhausted.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.89-97
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• 2003

This study is to review the development of calico printing pattern design for fabric through historical perspective. Calico is a cotton cloth named from Calicut, a city of India. It was first brought to England by the East India company in 1621. Although the name is generally given and plain white cotton cloth, and in America it is applied to small-scale printed cottons, today it applies to indian cotton cloth, coarse or fine, woven with colored geometrical large-scale and small-scale patterns, painted or printed. Therefore this paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of calico printing pattern from the early of 16th century to 21th century. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive calico pattern design in domestic cotton textile industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.21-39
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• 1995

By 1980, there are two main flows in the world fashion. One is the traditional Paris fashion by Houte Couture, and the other is the American casual fashion by mass production. However, the appearance of Japanese designers and their new styles on the stage of Paris fashion have had a strong influence on the change of the world fashion since 1980s. So, the purposes of this study were first to research the process, the background and the power which let the Japanese stand and suc-ceed in the stage of Paris fashion, second to research on the Fashion World and Fashion Trend from the beginning of 1980s to present (1994). The results were as follow ; Hanae Mori and Kenzo were the pioneers who let the West know the existence and the level of Japanese fashion. Issey Miyake was the new innovator in the 20th century Fashion. and became the foundation of the New Wave Fashion in 1980s. Rei kawakubo completed the philosophy of beauty by the imperfection and has led the Postmodernism in the Fashion. The constant efforts of the these Japanese designers have inspired the orientalism and Art-to Wear, showed up the new construction and material in clothing by layering and drap-ing and stimulated the traditional Paris fashion to become popular, casual and diverse. The success of Japanese designers and the boom of Japanese fashion were not only the effort of individuality but also the power of economics, the spirit of cooperation and the affection to the culture and tradition on the background. The New Wave fashion by Japanese designers in the beginning of 1980s have promoted the appearance of Avant-garde fashion in London, the new fashion spirit in Milano, and the various fashion styles of different sections in the West and East. Finally, it becomes popular in 1990s and leads the fashion spirit in the end of 20th century.