• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2015

The purpose of this research is to analyze the morphological relationship between changes hair styles and changes in necklines and collars in 20th century fashion. After selecting the representative plate by each age for this study, the neckline, collar, and formative relevancy of hair style according to it have been analyzed by measuring the neckline, collar, and the width and height item of each hair style. The results of this study show- that the width changes of necklines and collars were mostly proportional in relation to each other, but the width changes of collars and hair styles were inversely proportional. While the amplitude of necklines and collars' width change was very broad, the amplitude of some hair style's height change was very broad. Regarding width, this result had similar results of the researcher's former research, the relation according to the width of necklines, collars and hair style from 16th century to 19th century. However, regarding height, this result was different from the preceding research in that the amplitude of hair style and collars' height change was very broad between 16th and 19th centuries, but the amplitude of neckline's height change is relatively small. This means various heights of necklines appeared in the 20th century, but more various heights of collars were shown between the 16th and 19th centuries. This research hopes to be helpful by predicting trends in fashion, and to be basic resources to understand the systemic relationship of these factors.

• Sijohaknonchong
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• v.26
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• pp.125-149
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• 2007

Until the late 19th century, $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu(歌曲源流)$\lrcorner$ was a collection of songs which had powerful influence on Gagog tradition. However, its role on Gagog(歌曲) tradition since then is less well known. Generally, it is presumed that Gagog tradition might disappeared by giving way to modern song genre. So this article question that $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu$\lrcorner$ became extinct rapidly between the late 19th century and early 20th century, and follow $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu$\lrcorner$ tradition of early 20th century. Gagog instruction for beginner had a clue to answer this question. This instruction was written by Ha Son-il(河順一) who was a teacher and singer in a private music institute. named 'ChoyangGurakbu(調陽俱樂部). Accordingly, this article has processed two phases in order to find out this question. First of all, this article analyzed Gagog instruction that Ha soon-il edited. As a result, it found out that Gagog instruction included the whole $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu$\lrcorner$'s contents in the 19th century and was transmitted actively until the early 20th century. Second, this article found out $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu$\lrcorner$ tradition of the early 20th century by analyzing character of ChoyangGurakbu. And also this article discovered ChoyangGurakbu had been managed by an vigorous aid association. Gagog instruction for beginner written by Ha Son-il had spreaded from strength to strength in the early 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.10
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• pp.1619-1628
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• 2008

The aim of this study was to compare and contrast the changes in wedding coordination between the end of 20th and the beginning 21st centuries. one wedding magazine was selected and used to supply data. four hundred and thirty one wedding photos were examined from a popular wedding magazine called "My Wedding", issued between 1993 and 2007. the results are described below. First, changes in make-up and hair style: from the end of 20th to the beginning of 21 st centuries, the style of make-up changed from being exaggerated with strong colors which made the typical brides make-up to utilizing the minimal color selection which made natural-looking. the hair style has also changed from up style to natural hair style. Second, changes in wedding gowns: the style of wedding gowns changed from the shapes of X line which was to cover the body figure of bride to simple shapes such as an strapless and fish-tail style of gowns. Third, changes in wedding jewelry and accessories: hair pieces consisted of large flower crowns and hair bands with flowers in the end of 20th century. the various sizes and colors of tiaras and crowns were popular in the beginning of 21 st century. for wedding accessories, large shapes of earrings and necklaces were popular at the end of 20th century, whereas various size and styles were more fashionable later on. in conclusion, brides in the beginning of 21 st century prefer to wear sexy or alluring dresses with natural hair styles and make-up, in contrast to the classic or traditional wedding outfits that were more popular at the end of 20th century.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.231-241
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• 2009

Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.3-10
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• 2008

This study is concerned with the process of development and architectural characteristics of secular stained glass in the 20th century. Stained glass had been architectural art from the origin. But it had declined since the Renaissance era, and began to revive in the early 20th century. Stained glass work is very flourish in Korea today, but it is still treated as simple decoration or 2-dimensional mosaic. Architect and interior designer even have little understanding of architectural character of stained glass. In order to recover the architectural nature of stained glass, I have considered the process of development of secular stained glass in the 20th century, and analysed the works of Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists, Georg Meistermann, Ludwig Schaffrath, Johannes Schreiter, and English artist, Brian Clarke. Major findings of the study are as followings : First, stained glass has come to life again from the secular glass painting decoration in the end of the 19th century, through Art-Nouveau, De Stil, Bauhaus in the beginning of the 20th century, and L'Art $Sacr\acute{e}$. Second, Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists and Brian Clarke have established the architectural concept and potentiality of the modem stained glass in the secular field. Third, They have done by coming back to the basic creative method by traditional lead-came technique in spite of the development of various materials and techniques. Forth, stained glass fundamentally has architectural characteristics as the characters of Space, Time, Place, Context, and they have showed the new possibility of stained glass by recovery of these characters.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.1-7
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• 2013

There are three kinds of books written by different authors in different regions in the 19th century. These books include "BonChoYuHam (本草類函)" (1833), "BonChoBuBangPyeonRam (本草附方便覽)" (1855) and "BonChoBang (本草方)" (1860?). However, these books are very similar in terms of content and format. They were written in the format of large medical books and they contained prescriptions made up with 1-2 kinds of herbals depending on diseases. These three books which could not affect each other appear to have these commons. The reason is that these books were newly edited based on Bubang (附方) in "BenChaoGangMu" depending on diseases and "BenChaoWanFangZhenXien" (1712) written by Cai, lie Xian (蔡烈先) was used as the reference. Woodblock printed book of "BenChaoGangMu" viewed by medical practitioners in Joseon Dynasty in the 19th century mostly had "BonChoManBangChimSun" which could be called '"BenChaoGangMu" Bubang index' as the appendix. All authors of three books tried to make 'reorganization of "BenChaoGangMu"' by using "BonChoManBangChimSun" as the important reference. Work of 'reorganization of "BenChaoGangMu"' focusing on symptoms being made in the 19th century was made a few times in the 20th century. "YangMuSinPyeon" and "SuSeBiGyeol" published in 1928 were outcomes of these works in the 20th century. 'Reorganization of "BenChaoGangMu"' being made in 19th-20th centuries showed great interest for "BenChaoGangMu" in the medical community in the late Joseon Dynasty. In addition, the practical scholarship of Joseon Dynasty gave "BenChaoGangMu" the value as the collection of prescriptions rather than the concept of book for herbal medicine. Prescriptions of reorganized "BenChaoGangMu" have been spread out to many books in the late Joseon Dynasty. Thus, the impact of "BenChaoGangMu" on society in the late Joseon Dynasty seems to be much larger than what has been known so far.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.124-134
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• 2011

The space has been interpreted from various perspectives, such as hierarchical, cultural, economic, political factors, etc. So we can see the space as a social existence. Space is now being formed through the dialectical relations of these elements. From this point of view, this study started to research the spatial practice of morden people through the case in the early 20th century film. With the discourse of Henri Lefebvre and David Harvey, and Michel de Certeau's theory, this research tried to find the mechanisms of spatial practice. Also Benjamin is a philosopher who intervenes the relationship between modernity and cultural production and his way of reading cultural phenomena seems to serve as the useful methodology of cultural studies. Modern people were individual unawared of the era, awakened to the ego. They were wandering the room and the street, private and public places. They were city dwellers walking around, collecting goods, and living of everyday life. Spatial practice is a fixed activity and have continuity. spatial practice appeared in the early 20th century film is at the intersection of social practices and the practice of everyday life. Social practices are a fixed practice and continuous practice. The practices of everyday life are nomadic practice and amusable practice. Modern people accommodate and adapt to a given space of the city through fixed practice. They realizes the access and the distance from spaces through continuous practice. They select and approved the spaces through nomadic practice. And they possess exclusively and utilize the spaces through amusable practice. Through These research spatial practices, it could easily found similarities and differences between modern space on the early 20th century and contemporary space of 21st century. True modern is not the past but the present.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.45-45
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to find out megatrends and design trend through the analysis of the influential factors on trend and various fields of design trend in the late 20th century. Further, it is to establish database to prospect the design trends of the 21th century by analyzing and estimating the design color trend.

• KIEAE Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.55-62
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• 2016

Purpose: Since the 19th century many concrete models and theories for the ideal city had been proposed and in some way had affected on the ideal urban plans in the 20th century. Modern cities in the 20th century faced a total chaos, due to the world war and new social paradigm came from the development of technology. These social context leads us to be interested in ideal city. And two planned cities; Chandigarh, India and Brasilia, Brasil, are meaningful as the result of the modern ideal city in the early 20th century even though they completed just in part. Method: This study is focused on the characteristics of the modern ideal city in the early 20th century based on comparison with two realized cities. There are similarities and differences in their background, concept, and the characteristics of form and space. Result: First, both cities are required to make monumental and symbolic images by political issues. For this, Le Corbusier proposed the grid system for a metaphorical city and L. Costa defined the urban form with abstract axis for a mythological city. Second, the administrative districts in both cities are planned as symbolic places by formative buildings and their hierarchical arrangement. For neighbourhood unit 'Sector' in Chandigarh and 'Superquadras' in Brasilia are used for the neighbourhood unit respectively. Third, the car-oriented road system and urban environment by population overcrowding in tow cities are criticized in common. Consequently, as we can see, the modern ideal city in the early 20th century succeeds in making symbolic urban image, but exposes the limitation of sustainability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.89-107
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• 2000

Underwear has undertaken the auxiliary role of outwear also. Thus, as outwear has changed forming the characteristic mode in every period, underwear has changed endlessly, so that it may match the form and function of outwear, in accordance with the stream of period. In this study, this researcher examined hoop and petticoat which were used for widening the skirt which is female clothes with diverse names in every period. under one name which is farthingale, centering around the West and korea, from 16th century to 20th century(the first term). In addition, it examined by comparison the relevancy between to the history and change factor of underwear which was used for swelling the skirt in Korean clothes. The result to have studied on the history and change factor about the farthingale of West and Korea is as follows: This study found that the silhouette of women's clothing has a strong relationship with underwear. Also The result to compare the underskirt of the West with that of Korea is as follows : They has other character, but in 18th century, being compared the underskirt of the West with that of Korea, for the swelling of skirt, this study found that they had something in common with the underskirt of the West and Korea.