• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.129-141
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of historical costume style and painting on Vivienne Westwood design. For this purpose, the costume style after 16C and the rococo painting of 18C are researched. And through Westwood's recent designs, the external form and internal symbol are compared. The results of this study were as follows : 1. From Renaissance, Rococo, Crinoline, Bustle, S style were showed on Westwood design. 2. In external method, historical costume styles were expressed by silhouette, detail, costume item, textile and various cuttings. 3. In the case of painting, it focused on Rococo painting of 18C. Costumes in painting were realized or painting itself were used for textile. 4. Most of her design was cut in the round rather than in the flat, bold cutting and slash were employed. 5. These works are symbolizing the harmony of tradition and future, at the same time through the transformation of orthodox style, containing ridicule to the authority and a challenge to society as well as sex. These results let us know that Westwood is versatile to transform the history and harmonize the tradition and 20C Fashion successfully. (Korean J Human Ecology 2(1):129∼141, 1999)

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.11-20
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• 1989

Teen-agers are much concerned for their appearances. Their clothes reflect their living conditions and serve as a means to represents themselves as well. They also show great concern for the clothes of students of an age. So to guide their clothing behaviours in school plays a very important role in the living guidance of students. From this point, this study was aimed at examing closely the differences of recations as to the girl students' clothing behaviours between boy students and girl students of high school, and the correlation between environment condition and reaction upon the clothing behaviours of girl students. To check the physical environment condition of the family, the family circumstances test, made and standardized by Jung Won Sik, was used. To check the clothing behaviours of girl students, four items-modesty, fashion and esthetics were made and each item had five questions, wihich comprised fifteen questons all told. The subjects of this study included students in eight high schools located in Incheon, totaling 930 boys and girls. The results of this study were summarized as follows: 1. There are great differences in students' reaction upon girl students' clothing behaviours according to their physical circumstances level, sex, grade years and the degree of concern for other sex. (A) The correlation between students' physical circumstances level and their reaction upon the girl students' clothing behaviours is high in all the three items. The higher the students' circumstancses level is, the lower their reaction upon modesty is, and the higher their reaction upon fashion. In case of esthetics, only girl students show great concern for it. (B) As to the reaction upon the girls students' clothing behaviours by sex, girls show higher concern for modesty, fashion and esthetics than boys. (C) As to the reaction upon the girl students' clothing behaviours by the grade years, the first year students as a whole show higher concern for modesty than second grade year students. (D) As to the reaction upon the girl students' clothing behaviours by the degree of concern for other six, the more concern both the boy and the girl students have for other sex, the higher their reactions are upon fashion and esthetics, but the lower upon modesty. 2. From the point of reactions upon the girl students' clothing behaviours, (A) as to fashion, free variables can explain by 7.8 percent the degree of concern for other sex, physicial circumstances level, and sex in that order. (B) as to fashion, free variables can explain by 5.4 persent the concern for other sex, physicial circumstances level, and sex in that order. (C) as to esthetics, free variables can explain by 4.8 percent the concern for other sex, physicial circumstances level, and sex in that order. From the above analysis, the following are included: The concern for other sex has the greatest influence on the girl students clothing behaviours, the physicial circumstances level the nest, sex the third and the grade year the last.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.985-992
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• 2013

Polytrimethylene terephthalate(PTT) offers several advantageous properties such as good tensile strength, uniformity, stiffness, toughness, UV stability, resilience, stain resistance, outstanding elastic recovery, and dyeability. The effects of annealing temperature on physical properties and the structure of PTT filaments and yarn were investigated by measuring wide-angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD), density, optical birefringence, dynamic visco elasticity, and tensile testing. The intensity of maximum tan ${\delta}$ decreased and the temperature of maximum tan ${\delta}$ shifted to a higher temperature as the annealing temperature of filaments increased; however, it shifted to a lower temperature when the annealing temperature exceeded $130^{\circ}C$. In addition, crystallinity, density and D-spacing of (010) crystal face increased as the annealing temperature increased. Optical birefringence and specific stress were almost constant up to $100^{\circ}C$ and then decreased above $130^{\circ}C$. The shrinkage of PTT filament is 0 in boiling water when annealed above $130^{\circ}C$; consequently, the use of annealed fiber above $130^{\circ}C$ can remove thermal instability when dyeing PTT fiber. In the case of yarns, the thermal stability and physical properties of yarns showed the best effect when the ply number is less than 5, twist number is less than 400tpm, and the annealing time is 20minutes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.621-632
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyze the physical characteristic of the wheelchair users by directly measuring the disabled men who use a wheelchair and to classify body types. The subjects were 178 male wheelchair users 20-69 years range of age. The results of this study were as follows. The cause of disability was classified into four groups; Poliomyelitis(P), Spinal Cord Injury(S), Cerebral Palsy(C), Amputee(A). There was a remarkable difference in the physical characteristic of the wheelchair users due to their cause of disability. A have greater values in all the dimensions. P have the largest drop values and smaller values in the lower body dimensions. S have greater values in the height of upper body trunk, back interscye length, and chest circumference, whereas smaller values in waist front length and thigh circumference. C have smaller values in most body dimensions except circumference of lower limb. By the factor analysis on the anthropometric data came out the result to be eight factors. The result of cluster analysis using factor scores shows the body types of wheelchair users can be divided into four body types; PY, RBB, TBP, RA. PY type is short and has the largest drop values, whereas RBB type tends to have the smallest drop values. TBP type is tall and the torso tends to be larger than those of the other types. RA type has smaller values in front body dimensions and moderate values in other dimensions. The diversity in body types should be considered among the wheelchair users.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.173-180
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• 2008

Cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended (80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen plasma, enzymes (cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and they were examined for dyeing and handling properties for environment friendly finishing. The appropriate conditions for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of 3g/l, pH of 5, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour, and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of 4g/l, pH of 8, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour. The equilibrium uptake of a direct dye on cotton changed with plasma treatment and plasma-cellulase treatment, and the rate of dyeing slightly decreased. When wool was dyed with acid dye, the equilibrium dye uptake did not change with plasma, protease treatment nor plasma-protease treatment, however, the rate of dyeing had increased with plasma-protease treatment. From these results, it is assumed that plasma attacks the surface of the fiber, and enzyme mainly affects the inner part of the fiber. Plasma treatment did not affect mechanical properties related to the handling of fabrics. The handling test showed increased extension at maxmum load(EM), tensile energy(WT) with decreased tensile resilience (RT), and the fabrics became softer but resilience decreased slightly with enzyme treatment. The bending recidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB), and hysteresis of shear force at five degrees(2HG5) decreased, however, shear stiffness(G) increased. I knew the plasma pre-treatment made fabrics softer with lower koshi(stiffness). The handling of plasma pre-treated fabrics was better than that of enzyme-treated fabrics. When we pre-treated fabrics, the handling test showed decreased coefficient of friction(MIU), geometrical roughness(SMD), while the surface of fabrics became smoother and numeri increased. Even though compression resilience(RC) increased, fukurami(bulky property) and compressive elasticity, decreased due to the linearity of compression-thickness curve(LC) and compression energy(WC).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.135-141
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• 2009

In this paper, Tagetes extracts were extracted from leave, root, stem and flower at $100^{\circ}C$ for 20 minutes. Silk fabrics were dyed with Tatetes Patula L. to investigate the dyeing properties in accordance with dye concentration, pH, temperature, time of pre-, simul- and post-treatment of mordants using the three types of mordants. As a result, the surface color of the silk fabrics was yellowish regardless of the types of mordants. However, the a values were decreased and b values were increased in the order of the dyeing using Al>Cu>Fe: Al mordanted silk fabrics were appeared in greenish yellow and Fe mordanted silk fabrics were done in redish yellow. K/S values of the silk fabrics treated with Fe mordant were 3 times higher than those of Al and Cu mordants according to the increase in dye concentration. This behaviour was shown even in the increase of mordant concentration due to the interaction of mordant and pigments of Tatetes Patula L. But, the types of mordants did not affect because the equilibrium was obtained in 20 minutes in a similar way. And it showed that the highest K/S value of the silk fabrics studied was pH 4 and $80^{\circ}C$ regardless of the types of mordants.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.293-296
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• 2014

This study was conducted to investigate the effect of culture temperature on the growth rate and protease activity of Antarctic microorganisms. The Antarctic microorganisms PAMC 25641, 25614, 25719 and 25617 were obtained from the Polar and Alpine Microbial Collection (PAMC) at the Korea Polar Research Institute. These microorganisms were confirmed for the excretion of protease on a plate with skim milk. The identification of microorganisms was carried out using the 16S rDNA sequencing method. PAMC 25641 showed the highest protease activity among the subjects tested, and PAMC 25617 exhibited the highest growth rate. The growth rates of the microorganisms were not affected by temperature, except for PAMC 25617. However, protease activities were increased for all strains in a temperature dependent fashion. These results suggest the possible application of Antarctic microorganisms for the efficient production of low temperature proteases.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.28-28
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 한국 특산종으로 남해안 섬에서만 자라는 황칠나무(Dendropanax morbifera Lev., 황칠이라고 함)를 사용하여 염색하였다. 황칠나무는 면역력 증진, 신경 안정, 항균, 항산화에 효능이 있는 것으로 알려져 있다. 황칠염색은 $60^{\circ}C$에서 이루어졌으며, 발효한 액체 황칠을 염료로 사용하였다. 매염제에 따른 염색을 실시하고 CCM을 사용하여 색발현 특성을 알아보았다. 면직물의 경우 대조직물의 K/S값이 0.13에 비해 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 동시매염, 고백반 선매염, 황수(영천지역의 약수) 후매염은 각각 1.53, 0.99, 1.62, 1.65, 2.21로 차이가 있었다. 울직물의 경우 대조직물의 K/S값이 0.48에 비해 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 동시매염, 고백반 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 선매염, 황수 후매염은 각각 2.61, 1.97, 3.20, 3.07, 4,59로 차이가 있었다. 견직물의 경우 대조직물의 K/S값이 0.30에 비해 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 동시매염, 고백반 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 선매염, 황수 후매염은 각각 2.06, 1.21, 1,77, 1.80, 3.23로 차이가 있었다. 황수 매염이 식소다나 백반 매염보다 효과가 있는 것을 알 수 있었으며, 매염의 순서에 따라서도 차이가 나는 것을 알 수 있었다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.343-348
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• 2006

This study aims to attain gray tone dyed goods by using tannin that is contained in green tea. Tannin is given general name of polyphenol, which has a characteristic that bonds with protein and it is used for food preservative that protects against bacteria, as well as its purpose of black tone dye for silk treatment that has been processed since its early ages. In particular, as tannin reacts with all kinds of metallic mordant and changes to various colors, when tannin acid is combined with iron, it becomes tannin steel and produces gray tone color. Tannin that is contained in green tea is condensed tannins and its structure does not hydrolyze, thus having flavan type structure. In order to find the suitable condition for processing tannin, UV-Vis part absorption spectrum of green tea tannin, dye ability based on temperature and time, reflection rate based on concentration, color changes based on acid treatment and alkali treatment, changes on surface based on concentration or metal mordant condition, and lightfastness were measured. Maximum absorption wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of green tea tannin was at around 273nm, while strong absorption was also observed at below 350 nm. Dye ability of green tea tannin is done more easily on silk rather than cellulose fibers such as cotton, while the optimum condition for dyeing was observed to be at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 minutes. As a result of acid treatment, the color of dye material consisted highly of gray tones and showed overall gray tone with the combined color of yellow and red after the alkali treatment. While it was observed that as dye concentration and metal mordant concentration increased, the color changed at counter-clockwise direction on the Y-scale of Munsell's scale of colors. Additionally, lightfastness was more on a normal fading.