• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.431-446
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyze the gender role changes of Korean women reflected on their costumes during 20th century. To analyze the diachronic gender role changes, social environments(education, job, economy, family systems, mass-media) of 20 th century were inquired by 10 years and comparatively analyzed with 680 images of representative costumes each periods. The results are as followed. 1) $1900s{\sim}1910s$: The most representative women's gender role was a wise mother and good wife. Therefore the adopted western costume, a symbol of civilization, were represented women as a passive and sexual object of man. 2) $1920s{\sim}1930s$: 'Shin Yeosung(Modern Girl)' was the representative gender role of that time. They were the symbol of enlightenment and new education. Their costumes influenced to the changes of traditional Hanbok in functional side. 3) $1940s{\sim}1950s$: In World War II. a strong and stubborn women were wanted to support their family. They threw feminity and changed their costumes into an active and functional 'Mombbe'. 4) $1960s{\sim}1970s$: Women asserted Gender equality and resisted the traditional women's gender role. Mini Skirts and Unisex costumes were symbolic costumes reflecting the changes. 5) 1980s: The self confidence of women's gender role affected the androgynous look and body-conscious look in modern fashion. 6) $1990s{\sim}2000s$: Now, the dichotomy of gender role is not no longer effective way to understand the social changes and fashion trend rather than personal characteristics and lifestyle trends.

• 한국식품영양학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.75-85
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• 2009

In this study, a total of 70 seaweed names among various kinds of seaweeds, including dried and powdered foods, were investigated by examining Korean foods literature published during 1450${\sim}$1950. There were 14 kinds of sea mustard, 13 kinds of laver, 3 kinds of kerp, 6 kinds of sea staghorn, 15 kinds of green laver, 1 kind of Ecklonia cava, 11 kinds of agar and 7 seaweeds classified as other. It was also found that seaweed was used as a main ingredient, secondary ingredient, or a garnish in a total of 74 traditional Korean foods. The seaweed foods appearing in the literature were classified by a traditional Korean food classification system according to cooking method. These traditional seaweed foods were placed into 6 categories including main dishes, side dishes, tteok lyou and hangwa lyou. Finally, a database was established in order to provide a research basis for traditional Korean seaweed foods.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.97-106
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• 1996

A literature on Korean rice cakes by ingredients and preparation methods was reviewed with published literatures in Korea from 1950 to 1995. The result were as followed; 1. The 46 volumes about preparation of Korean rice cakes were reported. There were 32 steamed (Jeung-byung), 6 pounded (Do-byung), 4 fried (Yu-jeon-byung), and 4 boiled Korean rice cakes (Kyung-Dan). This result showed that steamed Korean rice cake was the most frequently studied among any other kinds of Korean rice cakes. 2. The reports on preparation of Korean rice cakes were rare during $1950's{\sim} 1960's$. In 1970's, there were few papers about basic study for Korean rice cakes. And it was reached 8 volumes of steamed, each 1 volume of fried or boiled Korean rice cakes. From 1990's, the more scientific researches were progressed vigorously so reached 11 volumes till 1995 but it was limited to Solgi and Jeungpyun etc. This result shows that the experiment for Korean rice cake was not various. 3. The preceded studies for Korean rice cake were investigated to see texture, sensory, quality characteristic and effect of substitutes added to original ingredients.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is for confirming the aesthetics of 'little black dress' as one of the important items in contemporary women's fashion lives. Through the work, what is the aesthetic value that women really needed can be found. This research was processed by literal material with fashion photos, fashion books and articles which were related fashion trend from 1920 to 1990. The results are as follows ; The birth period of little black dress was 1920s to 1930s. Freedom and modernity was represented by little black dress. European elegance and American smartness were expressed on this item through 1950s to 1960s. In the end of 20th century, 'little black dress' has diversity just like fashion trend. As the aesthetics characteristics of little black dress, (1) contemporary woman's identity through chic and modernity (2) strong power of passing image (3) dual values of temptation and tatoo were found. Therefore this research can be useful to extent the meaning of little black dress in fashion study and to recognize contemporary women's needs.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제40호
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• pp.37-69
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• 2020

이 연구는 한국 여성영화의 흐름을 통해, 그 특징과 미학 그리고 유사성과 차이점을 살피기 위해 구상된 연구이다. 이 연구를 시행하기 위해서 시대별 대표성을 간직한 네 편의 영화를 선택해야 했다. 일제 강점기에 제작된 영화 <미몽>, 1950년대 여성주의에 대한 논쟁을 대대적으로 촉발한 <자유부인>, 여성의 황폐해진 삶과 이율배반적 남성 시각을 결합한 1990년대 영화 <은마는 오지 않는다>, 그리고 한국 페미니즘 영화의 미래 전형을 제시한 <바람난 가족>이 그 대상 작품이다. 특히 이러한 작품들은 시대별 한국 영화의 전형성과 대표성을 담보하고 있다는 점에서 주목되는 대상작이 아닐 수 없다. 이를 바탕으로 이 작품들에 나타나는 두 개의 공통 모티프를 집중적으로 조명했다. 하나는 여성의 영어 된 처지를 상징적으로 보여주는 '새장' 모티프이고, 다른 하나는 여성들이 자신의 처지를 자각하고 현재 상황을 점검하는데 필요한 '거울' 모티프이다. 한국의 여성영화는 '새장'과 '거울'의 모티프를 일정 부분 공유하고 있을 뿐만 아니라, 이러한 모티프의 연계를 통해 궁극적으로 겨냥했던 작가적 전언을 전달하는 데에도 주력해왔다.

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.137-154
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.576-586
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• 2015

This study compared and analyzed the consumption and amount of red pepper used in Baechu Kimchi (cabbage Kimchi) especially the amounts used in Kimchi recipes with respect to the passage of time from the 1930s to the 2010s. In this analysis, 78 recipes for cabbage Kimchi were taken from books, daily newspapers and magazines from 1930 to 2014 and collected for comparison. The result of the study showed that the consumption and inclusion of dried red pepper powder in cabbage Kimchi increased. The average consumption of red pepper in the 1930s was 5.75 g, and the number went up to 8.83 g in the 1940s, to 13.8 g in the 1950s, and to 20.25 g in the 1960s. The amount dramatically increased from 1970 to 1980 (53.37 g) and kept rising until 2010 (71.26 g). The average consumption of red pepper in cabbage Kimchi in the 2010s is about 12 times that of the 1930s.

• 영미문화
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.1-25
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• 2017

This essay investigates how the industrialization of the US food system was closely linked to US foreign policy, gender issues, and the rise of consumerism in the Cold War era. While many scholars in American studies and women's studies over the past few decades have paid increasing attention to the interrelationship of gender politics and the media industry in shaping US domesticity, they have seldom studied how and why reading gender issues in relation to environmental discourse in general and the industrialized US food system in particular can help us better understand the complex relationship between environmental and social problems that we are facing today, both collectively and individually. In this context, this essay shows how US national politics have not only created the ideal of American domesticity that promotes traditional gender roles and consumerism at the expense of gender equality, but also negatively affected women's somatic and mental health writ large. By closely examining the cultural implications of Nixon's and Khrushchev's Kitchen Debate in the 1950s alongside newspapers, photographs, advertisements, and Sylvia Plath's The Bell Jar (1963), I argue that reading Cold War consumer culture in relation to the US food system leads readers to see the invisible links between gender politics and today's environmental and social problems in comparative and global contexts.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.47-65
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• 2000

The movie costume's function and the role can be defined by reflection of the society and the times, character portrayal, conveyance of image, and creation of fashion. Korean movie costumes have been differentiated from 1950s till 1990s in time period and the results of comparison between the times as follow : Movie and fashion hold same period in common so that sense of fashion is naturally contained in the movie costume. Therefore, excluding special movie that costumes are selected by designer, such kind of trend is notable in the times when costumes mostly selected by actors themselves. Most movie costumes are not designed after predicting up coming fashion by considering movie producing time so that notation between current fashion and fashion in the movie and mostly we see about one year behind fashion style. For FAD, fashion that quickly passes in each season can use costumes in fashion, considering movie producing time and time background, that it lack of trend of fashion in the movie. Korean movie industry lack of having perception of people who are in charge of taking care of movie so that costumes are not properly taken care of and uses only 5% of total movie producing cost. Such that kind having lack of preception and treatment of movie costumes can't expect development of movie costumes.