• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the style of Marlene Dietrich who was a Hollywood legend in 1930s and has influenced on modern fashion. The characteristics of Dietrich style showed androgyny, sensualism and exoticism. Dietrich has been famous for wearing tailored pantsuit on and off-screen with mannish gesture and had great effect on women's wearing pants. Her confident, sexy mannish style represented her androgyny glamourously and proved she had a taste for a classic. Her sensualism focused on her famous legs because she understood the sex appeal of woman's legs. She showed her legs by wearing pants and decorative stockings, or matching colors of stockings and shoes to make her legs look longer and sexier by illusion. Her exoticism against a backdrop of black and white image, was presented with luxurious, sensual fabrics such as furs, feathers and velvet, along with dazzling accessaries. Also she didn't forget to manipulate angles of camera and lights for the engraving figure of her own. Her charisma directed her fashion image in detail and made herself a fashion icon in 1930s.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
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• 통권11호
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• pp.137-151
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• 2007

본 연구에서는 크리스마스의 악몽을 중심으로 팀 버튼이 조명을 어떻게 사용하였는지를 분석하여 그의 독특한 컬러 비주얼 스토리텔링 스타일은 어떤 것인지 연구해 보았다. 분석결과 팀 버튼은 $1930{\sim}60$년대 B급 헐리우드 영화와 고전주의적 조명을 사용하였다. 그는 크리스마스의 악몽에서 조명을 이용하여 칼라를 강한 비주얼 스트럭쳐로서 사용하였고 이것은 작품의 일관된 몽환적 분위기를 유지하는데 상당한 기여를 하였음을 알 수 있었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.763-776
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.

• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristic of modern Tap dance costume according to its origin and kinds. For this purpose, the study explored the review of literature focusing on the historical back ground of Tap dance and investigated into the kinds of modern tap dance and the formative feature of the tap dance costume. Costumes of leading tap dancers in representative performances and movies are analyzed. The results are summarized as follows: The kinds of current tap dance could be categorized as three types of Jazz Tap Dance, Rhythm & Funk Tap Dance, Irish tap Dance as their development origin. The Tap dance widely distributed through the U.S. Hollywood movie, The Jazz Tap Dance costume was composed of magnificent and luxurious design applying the high fashion of the 1930s and 1950s in the male and female costumes. The U.S. Blacks' tap dance, Rhythm & Funk Tap costume had a close relation with resistant blacks' culture, and showing the type of free dressing not bound by previous tap dance dress. The Irish Tap Dance originated from Irish folk dance displayed the tap dance embroidered costume using the Irish traditional pattern. This study systemized the characteristic of the tap dance costume by kind, and explored the dress revealed at the tap dance as a symbolic system to the cultural zone where the dance is made.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.173-187
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.151-166
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• 2013

In order to create a national myth and be able to control international society, America with her short national history, used popular culture to accomplish these goals. The medium fit this purpose the best was the use of superhero characters based on comics. Born and developed from the 1930s through the 1960s, which could be seen as America's national crisis era, superhero characters were thorough advocates of American justice and was perfect for the role of spreading the legitimacy of American ideology. From the 1970s, superhero characters became part of movies and became even more influential through the Hollywood's massive film industry and the box office success. American ideology in superhero characters symbolically appeared in movie costumes. Starting with Superman and Batman, the very first and typical superhero characters' costumes work as metaphors for realization of American justice. After the 1980s, superheroes were newly developed through a genre called graphic novel and the most representative piece of this genre is Alan Moore's Watchmen. In the Watchmen, which was also turn into a movie in 2009, six changed superhero characters appear ranging from a non-human superhero, villain superhero, superhero with mental disorder and superhero with sexual impotency, the characters were never-seen-before superheroes with different aspects that connote introspection and philosophical ideology. The changed type of heroes and ideology became another form of heroes, and this brought changes to character costumes that were never considered before. The superhero costumes that used to symbolize America now express different types of superhero by borrowing exotic mythical elements, undressing, pastiche and daily life clothes. The superhero characters and their changes in costumes from Watchmen imply American popular culture's introspective tendency. Amongst these changes, we need to raise our critical vision towards popular culture.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
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• 통권51호
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• pp.159-179
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• 2018

디지털 미디어의 발전에 따라 이미지의 변화가 2D에서 3D로 발전해 왔다. 1930년대 말 미국이 경제 위기를 극복하고 2차 세계대전을 맞이할 시기에 사람들은 현실도피를 위해 히어로가 필요했다. DC(Detective Comics)에서는 이미 슈퍼맨(Super Man), 배트맨(Bat Man)을 위주로 슈퍼 히어로 시리즈를 제작하여 슈퍼 히어로 만화가 유행하기 시작하였다. 마틴 굿맨(Martin Goodman)이 1939년에 창립한 타임리 코믹스(Timely Comics)도 같은 해 10월 1일에 시대 만화에서 첫 번째 만화 '마블'코믹스(Marvel Comics)를 출판하였다. 이 시점으로부터 마블은 만화산업을 위주로 발전해 왔다. 하지만 시대의 발전과 미디어의 변화 속에서 마블은 만화 중심의 발전 체계로부터 대담하게 할리우드 영화의 영향력을 파악하고 만화시장으로부터 영화시장으로 전향하게 된다. 특히 트랜스미디어 스토리텔링전략은 마블이 디즈니와 합병 후 제작한 영화 <어벤져스> 시리즈에서 잘 반영되었다. 본 논문에서는 마블의 히어로물 만화가 합병 전 만화산업을 위주로 발전해 왔던 시기와 디즈니와 합병 후 영화산업을 위주로 한 시기를 비교해 보았을 때 어떠한 변화와 발전을 가져왔는지, 그리고 이러한 변화를 가져오게 된 원인을 연구하는데 목적을 둔다.