The purpose of this study is to examine the features of the curriculum of Chosun-Sanhak(朝鮮算學), the mathematics of Chosun Dynasty in the 17th to 18th century. The results of this study are as follows. First, the goal of education, teaching-learning method and assessment of Chosun-Sanhak in the 17th to 18th century had not changed since the 15th century. Second, the changes in the field of the organization of mathematical contents were observed. Chosun-Sanhak in that time was higher in the hierarchy than in the 15th to 16th century. The share of the equation and geometry had increased and various topics of mathematics had been studied as well. Third, in the field of the characteristics of mathematical contents, the influx of European mathematics and the uniqueness of Chosun-Sanhak had been observed. In conclusion, The 17th to 18th century was the time when Chosun-Sanhak had pursued the identity escaping from the effects of Chinese-Sanhak.
The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the underwear design shown in historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century, woman's bodies were highly restricted, in order to analyze the symbolism of the movie costume and provide basic data for the future education of the department of movie costume design. For a study method, literature relating to movie costumes and underwear as well as captured images from 29 historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century was reviewed. Among them, data from 17 movies where underwear and crinoline were observed was analyzed. Historical movies, set in the $18^{th}$ century Europe exposed underwear more frequently and decisively than movies set in the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ centuries. For the figure wearing underwear, its expression effect was maximized by the implication function of costumes. Underwear can easily express the time and space background and symbolize the character's social and economic position, attitudes, and values. In addition, the exposure of underwear can reveal characters' internal expressions, such as mental status, taste, temper, intention, mood, time and space display. The result of observing the underwear shown in movies reveals that underwear plays a subjective role in expressing ideal femininity as a woman of a particular age, modesty, social position symbolism and eroticism that depended on the situation. It is expected that the study will provide an opportunity to reconsider the function of underwear, which is different from the meaning of costume history, and its role as a means of communication by considering the change of underwear by age.
This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.
This study is focusing on anchogongs(按草工) in yeonggeonuigwes(營建儀軌), which were recorded with few details and in unsettled transcriptions. First, the positions and functions of anchogongs in $18^{th}$ censtury are analyzed by comparing to anchogongs in more detailed early $19^{th}$ century yeonggeonuigwes and those in extant buildings. Second, with the result, the historical significances are presumed in changing transcriptions of anchogong terms in those uigwes. In $18^{th}$ century uigwes, most of anchogongs are functioned as matbo-anchogongs and only four anchogongs in a gate building were used as jongryang-anchogongs. It is mainly because the sorts of buildings in $18^{th}$ century yeonggeonuigwes had only several varieties: most of the buildings belonging royal shrines. Transcriptions of anchogong terms had been changed for reflecting functional developments of anchogongs in $18^{th}$ century. However, reflections were much later than changes of actual functions.
This thesis aims to investigate the morphologic relationship among the neckline, collar, and hair style, in which the width and height were measured by selecting the representative costumes from 16th to 19th centuries. The pieces of 170 pictures selected by fashion experts were cut in the same condition, with the part of the end of shoulder, head, and chest all placed on the equal level. The products were directly measured by a team of 3 specialists for verification of this study, of which results were calculated into average. The values of output were categorized into the unit of decade and finally into a graph of variation, in which the trend and relationship were evaluated according to the width and height. In 16th century, the width and height of the neckline were inversely proportional to those of hair style, while those of collar were proportional to those of hair style. In 17th century, the width and height of the hair style were proportional to those of neckline and collar. In 18th century, those of the neckline were inversely proportional to the hair style, with no collar found. In 19th century, the width of the neckline and collar were proportional to that of the hair style, while the height of the neckline and collar were inversely proportional to that of the hair style. The analysis of the morphologic relationship among neckline, collar, and hair style resulting from this study revealed that the change of the hair style took place corresponding to those of neckline and collar. Generally, the width of the hair style was found to be more resistant to change, compared to those of neckline and collar that were more susceptible. The height of the neckline was more resistant to change, compared to those of the hair style and collar presenting their frequently fluctuating height. Conclusively, the factor of height rather than that of width showed more dominant proportions, because the various forms of the collar and hair style evolved in terms of the height rather that width, relative to that of the neckline.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.22
no.4
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pp.1-16
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2020
This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.
The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.
Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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v.34
no.5
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pp.79-88
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2018
The purpose of this study is to analyze the plan type of excavation remains during the Mid to Late Joseon period around Jong-ro area in Seoul. 523 building remains were selected in accordance with plan type could identified through the excavation investigation report. Among these, 276 building remains were verified to the $15-16^{th}$, 145 and 102 building were verified to the 17-18th and the $19^{th}$ century. By classifying excavation remains, four dominant plan type of the each century came out. First, -shape was the most common plan type took nearly 50 percent. In a considerable proportion of cases, this plan type seems an annex of main building. However, -shape plan type also seemed to be used for main building in some cases. ㄱ and ㄷshape plan type took the second and the third. In most cases, these types seemed typical plan used for a main housing building. For the last, ㅁshape plan type identified the most unusual. This plan type merely took under five percent but, these cases are meaningful because it shows the plan alteration from ㄷshape to ㅁshape plan type. Existence proportion between each plan types of the $15-16^{th}$ century were continued to the $18-19^{th}$century without small changes between -and ㄱ types in $17-18^h$ century. By examining selected excavation remains, installing front Toi space on ㄱ, ㄷ and ㅁshape plan type stand out clearly compared with -shape plan type. From this tendency, it could be considered that plan type became a significant factor influenced installing Toi space. Similar to periodical tendency of plan type was not changed dramatically, the rate of installing Toi space in the $15-16^{th}$ century was not changed much until the $18-19^{th}$ century. It also shows the close relation between plan type and installing Toi space. In some excavation remains, floor type in the $15-16^{th}$ century also verified. There are some points of similarities on installing typical location of On-dol, Ma-ru and Bu-eok in these excavation remains with later period housing type such as Ut-Bang-Gguk-Oem-Jib and Ddeul-Jib.
Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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v.37
no.3
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pp.49-61
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2019
This study aims to examine the spatial recognition of the characters who visited Anuisamdong(安義三洞) in the past and left it in the literature. Thus, the school's relationship between people identified in the relevant literature was analyzed and the elements of landscape were extracted. The results were as follows; First, The figures who authored the literature on Anuisamdong were related to scholars living in Anuihyun(安義縣), along with the Yeongnam confucian genealogy. Starting with Jung, Yeo-Chang(鄭汝昌) in the 15th century, a relationship centered on Nammyeong School(南溟學派) in the 16th century was formed. At that time, people had toured the Anuisamdong regardless of the academic background. In the 17th century, Nammyeong School were in conflict with Toegye School(退溪學派), so Toegye School's influence had no record. In the 18th century, the proportion of Nammyeong School, Toegye School, and Kiho School(畿湖學派) appeared similar as they evolved into the Yeongnam School(嶺南學派). After the 19th century, the proportion of patriots who participated in the anti-Japanese movement was higher than that of schools. Second, The main places used in the literature related to Anuisamdongwere the order of Wonhakdong(猿鶴洞), Hwrimdong(花林洞) and Simjindong(尋眞洞). There are a total of 21 major elements used for the related literature, of which Suseungdae Rock(搜勝臺), Morijae House(某里齋), Nongwaljeong Pavilion(弄月亭), Sasundae Rock(四仙臺) and Cheoksuam Rock(滌愁巖) were the main subjects. Elements of Wonhakdong have been in the spotlight since the 16th century, focusing on Suseungdae Rock. Although the elements of Hwarimdong have been increasing gradually since the 18th century, the ratio of Simjindong to Wonhakdong and Hwarimdong was relatively small. Third, The relationship between the figures who visited the Anuisamdong and the spatial recognition of the Anuisamdong was divided into landscape awareness, emotional awareness and symbolic recognition. The Anuisamdong's scenic view is mostly identified by its description of the waterscape and topographical landscape, which people may have perceived as a scenic site centered on the valley view at the time. The mutual influence of Nammyeong School and Toegye School in the 16th and 17th centuries led to a scene in which the major figures of each school recognized pleasure as a culture of training, and a feeling of longing for the traces of past ancestors as the 18th century travel culture and the 19th century chaotic situation. In addition, the symbolic expression that usually appears is likely to have been recognized as a unworldly place, as the location of the immortal world is confirmed.
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