• Title/Summary/Keyword: 화장품원료

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LC/ESI/MS 와 기능성 화장품 관련 분석에의 응용

  • 이명희
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.25 no.3
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    • pp.23-46
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    • 1999
  • LC/MS는 HPLC의 분리능과 질량분석기의 화합물의 확인 능력을 결합시킨 기기이다. 여기서 사용되는 이온화 방법은 GCJMS에서 사용되어지는 전자이온화법(electron ionization, EI)이나, 화학이온화법(chemical ionization, CI)은 부적당하기 때문에 최근 개발되어진 연성 이온화법의 대표적인 고속원자폭격식(Fast atom bombardment, FAB)이나 전기분무이온화식 (electrospray ionization, ESI) 등이 사용되고 있다. 이중 전기분무이온화법은 고속원자폭격법에서 사용되는 매트릭스를 사용하지 않기 때문에 매트릭스 이온의 부재로 인한 낮은 바탕 신호, 오래 지속되면서 안정된 초기 이온 전류, 샘플링의 용이성, HPLC와의 더 좋은 호환성 등의 장점을 제공한다. 이러한 전기분무이온화 방법은 극성이 매우 크거나 휘발성이 낮은 물질로 보통의 EI나 CI 이온화 방법으로 분석이 어려운 물질들을 분석할 수 있다. 또한 열에 불안정하거나 분자의 분자량이 다른 단백질 등의 분석도 가능하다. 이러한 LC/ESI/MS 방법을 이용하여 열에 불안정하고 극성이면서 분자량이 커서 GC/MS 펄의 분석이 어려운 기능성 화장품 원료로 주목받고 있고 생체에 존재하는 지질 성분으로 알려진 레시틴과 세라마이드의 분석이 가능함을 소개하고 분리와 동시에 그 분자량과 구조에 대한 정보를 빠르게 얻을 수 있음을 소개하였다.

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반응표면분석을 이용한 참치껍질로부터 젤라틴 제조 최적화

  • 조승목;최주현;박현덕;김성구;지청일;이양봉;김선봉
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Fisheries Technology Conference
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    • 2003.05a
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    • pp.103-104
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    • 2003
  • 젤라틴은 콜라겐의 열변성에 의해 유도되는 단백질로써 열가역적으로 sol-gel로의 전환이 가능한 유동특성을 가지고 있다. 이러한 특성으로 인해 젤라틴은 식품, 의약품, 화장품 및 광학용품 등의 원료로써 널리 사용되고 있으며 산업적으로 매우 중요한 biopolymer중 하나로 자리잡고 있다. 현재 상업적으로 이용되고 있는 젤라틴의 원료로는 대부분 소와 돼지의 가공부산물인 껍질과 뼈가 이용되고 있다. (중략)

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The Development of Whitening Cosmetic Ingredient Having Activity of Melanin Degradation (멜라닌 분해능을 지닌 미백용 기능성 화장품원료의 개발)

  • Kang, Whan-Koo;Hwang, Sun-Duk;Kim, Hyoung-Sik;Jeung, Jong-Sik;Lee, Bheong-Uk
    • KSBB Journal
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.7-15
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    • 2007
  • Extensive research was carried out for inhibition of melanin formation as development of whitening cosmetic ingredients. But degradation of melanin itself was not intensively pursued as development of cosmetics. In this study, novel melanin degradation enzyme was developed and characterized. Also this enzyme production process was optimized and formulation was tried using micro encapsulation technique.

Simultaneous Determination of Heavy Metals in Cosmetic Products by Ion Chromatography (이온 크로마토그래피를 이용한 화장품 중 중금속 동시분석)

  • Lee, So-Mi;Jeong, Hye-Jin;Kim, Han-Kon
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.34 no.1
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    • pp.57-62
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    • 2008
  • No matter how small amount of heavy metals it may be cause skin allergies through percutaneous adsorption when existing in cosmetic products as impurities. In order to develop a highly sensitive method for simultaneous determination of $Pb^{2+},\;Fe^{2+},\;Cu^{2+},\;Ni^{2+},\;Zn^{2+},\;Co^{2+},\;Cd^{2+},\;and\;Mn^{2+}$ in coloring agents and cosmetic products with rapidity and accuracy, we carried out the determination on ion chromatography. All of these metals are well separated through a bifunctional ion-exchange column(IonPac CS5A) and detected by post-column reaction and spectrophotometric detection. The calibration graphs are linear($r^2>0.999$) in the range $0.1{\sim}1000{\mu}g/mL$. Detection limits for 200 ${\mu}L$ of sample solution are at the level of ${\mu}g/L$, which is sufficient for judging whether the product is safe or not. The relative standard deviations(RSDs) of the retention time and the peak area are less than 0.21 and 1.24%, respectively. The recovery rates are $97{\sim}104%$. The new method was applied to analyze the amount of heavy metals which were contained in 22 cosmetic products and 11 coloring agents.

Anti-wrinkle Effect of N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine (NAG) (N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine (NAG)의 피부주름 개선 효과)

  • Kim Kwang Soo;Choi Gun Ho;Choi Jang Woo;Choi Jun Hak;Han Song Hee;Nam Sang Yun;Lee Seung Hwa
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.30 no.4 s.48
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    • pp.457-462
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    • 2004
  • Anti-wrinkle effect of N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine (NAG) was evaluated by collagen synthesis and proliferation of normal human fibroblast. NAG was obtained by purifying deacetylated chitin which can be derived from chitin-rich crab shell. We studied in in-vitro cultures of human normal fibroblast, whether synthesis of collagens and fibroblast growth activation in these cells can be enhanced in the presence of NAG. It 야d not show any adverse effects in human shin irritation patch test. In in-vivo mouse test, it showed anti-wrinkle effect in hairless mouse (6W/F). From the HPLC analysis, the stability of NAG in the cosmetics product could be maintained for a long time. These results demonstrated that NAS can be useful anti-wrinkle cosmetic ingredient.

Study on Effect of Skin Elasticity by Polar Low Molecular Weight Keratin Peptide (극성 저분자 케라틴 펩타이드에 의한 피부 탄력 변화 연구)

  • Maeng, Jihye;Nam, Gaewon
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.46 no.3
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    • pp.243-252
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    • 2020
  • Using Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, polar low molecular weight keratin peptides were produced and confirmed through factors related to the skin elasticity. As a result of confirming the cytotoxicity and collagen synthesis ability according to the concentration of the polar low molecular weight keratin peptide in human fibroblasts, it was confirmed that the cytotoxicity did not appear and the collagen synthesis in human fibroblasts was increased. A mask pack containing a polar low-molecular weight keratin peptide was used, and a test product was used for 4 weeks in 22 healthy women subjects. As a result, it showed statistically significant effects on skin elasticity, skin torsion elasticity, skin color and moisture improvement. Through this test, it was confirmed that the polar low-molecular keratin peptide can be used as a cosmetic ingredient that helps improve skin elasticity.

Extraction of Glycosaminoglycans from Styela clava Tunic (미더덕 껍질로부터 Glycosaminoglycans의 추출)

  • 안삼환;정성훈;강석중;정태성;최병대
    • KSBB Journal
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.180-185
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    • 2003
  • Glycosaminoglycans (GAGS was extracted from sea squirt, Styela clava with sodium phosphate at 105$^{\circ}C$ for 2 hr and deproteinized with trichloroacetic acid or hydrochloride. The GAGs obtained from tunic consist 41.7% crude carbohydrates, 31.8% crude protein, and 31.2% sulfate. It was mainly constituted of galactose, glucosamine, glucose, mannose, and glacrosamine. The prominent amino acid were phenylalanine, threonine, glutamic acid, and aspartic acid. Mineral contents was mainly constituted 3.0 mg% sodium, 1.6 mg% potassium, and 1.2 mg% phosphorus. Trichloroacetic acid, hydrochloride and 5-sulfosalicylic acid were used for deprotein of the GAGs. Effective volume for deprotein of crude GAGs were 5.0% trichloroacetic acid (w/v) and 10.0% HCI (v/v) treatment. The deproteinized GAGs contained 35.1%, 35.4% of protein and 22.0%, 18.5% of sulfate, respectively.

Inhibitory Effect of Melanogenesis and Anti-inflammatory Effect of Elsholtzia ciliata Extract and Its Application as a Cosmeceutical Ingredient (향유의 멜라닌 생성 억제효과 및 항염효과와 화장품 원료로서의 특성)

  • Lee, Dae-Woo;Kim, Young-Jin;Kim, Young-Sil;Eom, Sang-Yong;Kim, Jong-Heon
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.32 no.4 s.59
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    • pp.219-225
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    • 2006
  • In this study, we evaluated anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-inflammatory effects of Elsholtzia ciliata extract for use as the cosmeceuticals. Elsholtzia ciliata extracts (30, 70 and 100% methanol extract) exhibited a significant tree radical scavenging effect (up to 80% over 0.025% concentration of 30 and 70% methanol extract, over 0.01% concentration of 100% methanol extract) against DPPH radical generation and showed a significant inhibitory effect (up to 80% over 0.1% concentration) on melanin synthesis in B-16 Melanoma cells. We separated 4 fractions from Elsholtzia ciliata extract (70% methanol extract) by MPLC. The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd fractions showed anti-oxidation (DPPH radical scavenging activity and suppressive effect on Mn-SOD), whitening(inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis) and anti-inflammatory (suppressive effects on $IL-1{\alpha}$, IL-6, COX-2, and total NO synthesis) effects.

Application as a Cosmeceutical Ingredient of Methanolic Extract from Ardisia crenata (백량금의 화장품 원료로서의 특성)

  • Lee, Dae-Woo;Kim, Young-Jin;Kim, Young-Sil;Eom, Sang-Yong;Kim, Jong-Heon
    • Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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    • v.32 no.4 s.59
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    • pp.249-255
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    • 2006
  • In this study, we evaluated anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-inflammatory effects of Ardisia crenata for use as the cosmeceuticals. Ardisia crenata extract (70% MeOH) showed a significant free-radical scavenging effect (up to 90% over at the concentration of 0.01 %) against DPPH radical generation and showed a significant inhibitory effect (up to 50% over at the concentration of 0.05 %) on melanin synthesis in B16 meanoma cells. We separated 5 fractions from Ardisia crenata extract (70% MeOH) by MPLC. The 3rd, 4th, and 5th fractions showed the anti-oxidation (DPPH radical scavenging activity and supressive effect on Mn-SOD), whitening (inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis) and anti-inflammatory (supressive effects on $IL-1{\alpha}$, IL-6, COX-2 and total NO synthesis) effects.