• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.40 no.1
• /
• pp.37-44
• /
• 2014

Preservatives such as paraben, phenoxyethanol, and chlorphene are commonly used in cosmetics thanks to cheap price and good antiseptic effect. Recently, consumers' concerns about their possible toxicity and skin irritation forced them to be replaced with straight 1,2-alkanediols. However, as the alkanediols may also irritate skin, limited amount of them should be used in cosmetics. Three 1,2-alkanediols including 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,2-octanediol in cosmetics were analyzed simultaneously by gas chromatogrphy with flame ionization detector. As a result of method validation, the specificity was confirmed by the calibration curves of 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,2-octanediol showing good linearity correlation coefficient of above 0.999 over the concentration range of $100{\sim}1,200{\mu}g/g$. The limit of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) of 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,2-octanediol were 31, 40, and $19{\mu}g/g$ and 98, 108, and $57{\mu}g/g$, respectively. The precision (Repeatability) of the amount in cosmetics showed less than 2.0%. Relative Standard Deviation (% RSD) and the Accuracy (% recovery) of the amount in cosmetics showed 99.3 ~ 103.3, 99.4 ~ 106.7, 97.5 ~ 107.3% respectively. As a result, simultaneous analysis of antimicrobial three 1,2-alkanediols in cosmetics were possible. This method can be utilized in accurate quantitative analysis of 1,2-alkanediols in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.23-46
• /
• 1999

LC/MS는 HPLC의 분리능과 질량분석기의 화합물의 확인 능력을 결합시킨 기기이다. 여기서 사용되는 이온화 방법은 GCJMS에서 사용되어지는 전자이온화법(electron ionization, EI)이나, 화학이온화법(chemical ionization, CI)은 부적당하기 때문에 최근 개발되어진 연성 이온화법의 대표적인 고속원자폭격식(Fast atom bombardment, FAB)이나 전기분무이온화식 (electrospray ionization, ESI) 등이 사용되고 있다. 이중 전기분무이온화법은 고속원자폭격법에서 사용되는 매트릭스를 사용하지 않기 때문에 매트릭스 이온의 부재로 인한 낮은 바탕 신호, 오래 지속되면서 안정된 초기 이온 전류, 샘플링의 용이성, HPLC와의 더 좋은 호환성 등의 장점을 제공한다. 이러한 전기분무이온화 방법은 극성이 매우 크거나 휘발성이 낮은 물질로 보통의 EI나 CI 이온화 방법으로 분석이 어려운 물질들을 분석할 수 있다. 또한 열에 불안정하거나 분자의 분자량이 다른 단백질 등의 분석도 가능하다. 이러한 LC/ESI/MS 방법을 이용하여 열에 불안정하고 극성이면서 분자량이 커서 GC/MS 펄의 분석이 어려운 기능성 화장품 원료로 주목받고 있고 생체에 존재하는 지질 성분으로 알려진 레시틴과 세라마이드의 분석이 가능함을 소개하고 분리와 동시에 그 분자량과 구조에 대한 정보를 빠르게 얻을 수 있음을 소개하였다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.46 no.4
• /
• pp.371-382
• /
• 2020

There have been continuous attempts to quantify sensory attributes of cosmetic products by measuring relevant physical properties. The most representative method to evaluate stickiness is to measure axial force using texture analyzer. Stickiness is known to correlate with AUC which abbreviates area under curve in the obtained axial force curve as a function of time. Recently, Normandie University research group developed in vivo stickiness evaluation method considering the characteristics of skin along with established evaluation method[8]. Based on the study, we tried to optimize in vivo stickiness evaluation method especially for cosmetic creams. The experiment was carried out on 5 different facial creams products by changing the amount and the times of rolling of creams, and the shape and material of probes. Based on the results of the sensory evaluation, the most consistent conditions were established as the optimal evaluation method. As a result, applying 70 μL of cream and rubbing 10 times for 7 s inside the 3.4 cm circle were judged to be suitable. As for the probes, spherical metallic probe was more proper due to its reproducibility. We conducted the settled method on 10 subjects to check its validity. Although the absolute values of AUC differed depending on the individuals, the AUC values were all ranked the same. Finally, for the standardization of stickiness of AUC, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) was set as a reference material and we measured AUC of its aqueous solution by changing concentration. Then, the degree of stickiness recognition for 5 different creams was surveyed to check the correlation between AUC and stickiness.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
• /
• v.8 no.6
• /
• pp.605-614
• /
• 2022

In this study, oregano was extracted by supercritical extraction and hydrothermal extraction method. In vitro experiments such as antimicrobial and antioxidant activity test were performed. As a result of the disc diffusion method, only the supercritical extracts formed a clear zone. The MIC for S. aureus was found only in the supercritical fluid extracts and it was 1000 ㎍/mL. The hydrothermal extract's MIC is 125 ㎍/mL for C. acnes. Through biofilm inhibition assay, we found that the supercritical fluid oregano extracts inhibit the biofilm of S. aureus by more than 70% even at low concentrations of 125 ㎍/mL. On the other hand, the antioxidant ability of the hydrothermal extract was better than that of the supercritical fluid extracts. Furthermore, we tried to make a skincare ingredient for atopic dermatitis by utilizing the S. aureus biofilm inhibitory ability of oregano supercritical fluid extracts. Liposome was used to overcome the low solubility of the oregano supercritical fluid extracts and increase stability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.129-138
• /
• 1999

피부 전용 제재 개발을 위해 요구되는 동물 대체 시험법 중 가장 적극적으로 연구가 행하여지곤 실제 실용화가 예상되는 것은 안점막 자극 시험으로 지금까지 여러 가지 방법이 개발되었지만 그 중 계란 유정란의 응모요막(CAM)을 이용한 방법이 현재 가장 활발히 진행되고 있다. 이 방법이 일부 국가에서 이미 안점막 자극 시험 동물 대체 시험법으로 공인되었으며 현재까지도 validation 연구를 활발히 진행하고 있다. 본 연구에서도 국내에 적합한 안점막 자극 시험 동물 대체 시험법의 공인 시험법 개발 및 validation study를 목표로 계란 유정란의 응모요막을 이용한 방법 중 HET-CAM 방법을 시행하였으며 안점막 동물 대체 시험법으로 확립하고자 하였다. 틴ET-CAM 방법의 보완을 위해 배양된 세포를 통해 자극도를 측정할 수 있는 방법인 Cytotoxicity test를 도입하여 시행하였으며 두 방법의 data들을 분석하여 validation study를 수행하였다. 국내 유수의 6개 장업사가 본 연구에 참가하여 20가지의 화장품 전용제재를 대상으로 1차, 2차 validation study 를 진행하였다. HET-CAM test, Draize eye irritation test, Cytotoxicity test 측정 결과 HET-CAM 의 “Q” 수치는 대부분 강자극 수치인 2 이상이었고 10% sodium hydroxide가 가장 높은 수치를 보였으며 Tween 20(sorbitanpolyoxyethylene monolaurate) 100%가 가장 낮은 수치를 보였다. In vi패의 경우 10% sodium hydroxide가 가장 높은 수치를 보였으며 30군 propylene glycol 이 가장 낮은 자극수치를 보였다. HET-CAM test 와 Draize eye irritation test, Cytotoxicity test 간의 상관성 분석은 linear correlation coefficient 와 rank correlation coefficient를 구하여 비교하였으며 6개 장업사(A-F)의 실험실에서의 HET-CAM test 결과를 취합하여 각각 두 실험실간의 상관관계(linear correlation)를 분석하였다. Linear correlation coefficient 분석 결과를 보면 전반적으로 상관관계가 0.589 - 0.954의 범위였으며, 특히 A사와 B사 사이의 경우 0.954이었으며, E사와 D사 사이의 경우 0.942로 높은 상관관계를 보였다. 그 외에도 A사와 D사 사이의 경우(0.589)와 B사와 D사 사이의 경우(0.638)를 제외하고는 대체로 높은 상관관계를 나타내었다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.28 no.3
• /
• pp.63-90
• /
• 2002

Quantitative measurement of melanin is the best method to evaluate whitening effect of cosmetics on human skin. However, non-invasive method to quantify human skin melanin with high precision has not been established. Whitening effect of cosmetics on the skin results in lightening of skin color. Therefore, it is reasonable to measure skin color in a reproducible manner for the assessment of whitening effect. Several Instruments or methods, such as colorimeter, mexameter, and visual assessments by experts , have been used for this purpose. In this lecture I will review the details of various assessment methods for the evaluation of whitening effect and discuss the pros and cons of each method. Then I will present briefly the results of clinical trial. Finally I will introduce new non-invasive modalities to quantify melanocytes.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
• /
• 2023.04a
• /
• pp.68-68
• /
• 2023

베리류 과수 가운데 블루베리, 아로니아, 복분자, 오디, 산딸기, 라즈베리 등 6종의 에탄올 추출물을 이용하여 총 폴리페놀 함량을 측정하고, DPPH법을 이용하여 항산화 활성을 측정하여 상호간 상관 관계를 분석하였다. 총 폴리페놀 함량은 아로니아> 복분자> 오디> 블루베리> 라즈베리> 산딸기 순으로 나타났으며, 항산화 활성은 아로니아> 라즈베리 >복분자> 블루베리> 오디> 산딸기 순으로 나타났다. 이러한 결과로 총폴리페놀 함량과 항산화 활성과의 상관관계가 있다는 것을 확인하였으며, 그 중에서도 아로니아와 복분자가 강력한 항산화 활성이 있는 것으로 나타났다. 그러나 라즈베리의 경우는 총폴리페놀 함량이 낮은데도 불구하고 항산화 활성이 높았다. 따라서 앞으로 라즈베리에 대한 선행연구가 필요하리라 생각된다. 이와 같은 결과들로 미루어 볼 때, 6종 베리류(블루베리, 아로니아, 복분자, 오디, 산딸기, 라즈베리) 에탄올 추출물은 농도 의존적으로 항산화 활성에 대한 효과가 양호하였으며, 이러한 연구결과들을 활용하여 트러블, 염증 억제제 및 항균활성으로 기능성 화장품의 신소재 개발이 가능하다고 판단된다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.48 no.4
• /
• pp.321-330
• /
• 2022

This study attempted to establish an optimal multi-compound simultaneous analysis method that can secure reliable results for 15 - preservatives, 2 - sun screens and 1 - antioxidants of cosmetics using HPLC-PDA. Since the potential of hydrogen (pH) in the mobile phase affects the acid dissociation constant (pKa) of the preservatives, and the peak retention time shift and area change were observed. The peak separation condition was established by adjusting the pH to 0.1% H₃PO₄ addition (mL) when preparing the mobile phase. As a results of method validation, the linearity correlation coefficient (R²) of above 0.999 were obtained, and accuracy 87.9 ~ 101.1%, 0.1 ~ 7.6% precision for two types of cosmetics (cream and shampoo). It was found that the limit of detection (LOD) was 0.1 ~ 0.2 mg/kg and the limit of quantitation (LOQ) was 2.0 ~ 4.0 mg/kg. In addition, it was possible to simultaneously separate p-anisic acid, a natural compound that was difficult to separate in HPLC due to the small difference from methylparaben, a synthetic preservatives. Through this study, it will be effectively used to secure quality control and safety for compound that need restrictions on use cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.31 no.4 s.54
• /
• pp.289-293
• /
• 2005

Nowadays there are many sun protection cosmetics including organic or inorganic UV filter as an active ingredient. Chemically stable inorganic sunsEreen agents, usually metal oxides, we widely employed in high SPF products. Titanium dioxide is one of the most frequently used inorganic UV filters. It has been used as pigments for a long period of cosmetic history. With the development of micronization techniques, it becomes possible to incorporate titanium dioxide in sunscreen formulations without whitening effect and it becomes an important research topic. However, there are very few works related to quantitations of titanium dioxide in sunscreen products. In this research, we analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide in sunscreen cosmetics by adapting redof titration, reduction of Ti(IV) to Ti(III) and reoxidation to Ti(IV). After calcification of other organic ingredients of cosmetics, titanium dioxide is dissolved by hot sulfuric acid. The dissolved Ti(IV) is reduced to the Ti(III) by adding aluminum metals. The reduced Ti(III) is titrated against a standard oxidizing agent, Fe(III) (ammonium iron(III) sulfate), with potassium thiocyanate as an indicator In order to test accuracy and applicability of the proposed method, we analyzed the amounts of titanium dioxide in four types of sunscreen cosmetics, such as cream, make-up base, foundation and powder, after adding known amounts of titanium dioxide $(1{\sim}25w/w%)$. The percent recoveries of the titanium dioxide in four types of formulations were in the range between 96 and 105%. We also analyzed 7 commercial cosmetic products labeled titanium dioxide as an ingredient and compared the results with those of obtained from ICP-AES (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Atomic Emission Spectrometry), one of the most powerful atomic analysis techniques. The results showed that the titrated amounts were well coincided with the analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide by ICP-AES. Although instrumental analytical methods, ICP-MS (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry) and ICP-AES, are the best for the analysis of titanium, it is hard to adopt because of their high prices for small cosmetic companies. It was found that the volumetric method presented here gat e quantitative and reliable results with routine lab-wares and chemicals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.40 no.3
• /
• pp.221-226
• /
• 2014

IIn this study, O/W type nano-emulsions were prepared by phospholipid-nonionic surfactant mixtures and octyldodecylmyristate using the phase transition low-energy emulsification method. The nano-emulsions were formed only in the very narrow area of the concentration of mixed surfactant and oil molar ratio of around 1 : 1. The particle size of the emulsions was decreased as adding the aqueous phase into the emulsions after phase inversion point unlike the emulsions formed only with nonionic surfactant. Nano-emulsion was stable at room temperature for more than a month. Thus, the nano-emulsions containing phospholipids can be widely used as a cosmetic formulations.