• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.74-81
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to review the relationship between modern homosexuals' costume tendency in socio-cultural terms and the garment tendency reflected as high fashion and thereby, determine the homosexualism being established as a recent fashion trend. The homosexualism shown in the fashion were categorized into three aspects; a resistant tendency departing from the conventional controlling culture, a fetishism or perversion tendency satisfying in sexual inclination by emphasizing certain physical parts or using certain items, and play to express a sexual identity departing from the fixed social view. The homosexualism being suggested as new fashion trend in this society dominated by the post-modernism art must mean an integrated sense of sex just beyond a simple perversion to express the self-identity in a natural way. It is conceived that the homosexualism would be expanded towards a new horizon of costumes as long as the division of sexes becomes more obscure and the decentralized bipolarization for mutual co-existence between two sexes continues to be main stream of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.37-56
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• 1999

In clothing, a tendency of Bisexuality is in case of wearing clothing of the opposite sex, the mixing of modeling principle and characteristic of man and woman, the exclusion characteristic of sexuality that present sexlessness-the third sex. They-Designer Gabrielle Chanel, YSL, Giorgio Armani-give characteristic of man's fashion to women's fashion. However, the consciousness in design is different. Chanel apply principle of man's suit to woman's wear to express authority and power about gender image, hereby she express women liberation and equality of man and woman based on social ideology through fashion especially, she express women's sexual independency and self assurance to her clothing. YSL express liberal and bold women that pursuit reasonal and liberal life in 1970. As he apply tailoed suit's rigidity to women's wear, he made 'pants look' universal in women's wear through“Dress for success”in modern life. Armani apply successful modern image to women's wear, so he express women's image of confident intellegent as well as feminine image. He focus women's new image as man living liberal and indivisual life excluding social category rather than will of equality of man and women. Gernreich break sexual prejudice and release women freely, furthermore, as he express concern of sexuality pursuit liberty of mankind surpassing sex distinction with women liberty. Gianni Versace pursuit mix and extinguishment of sexual image many-sided, and break fixed idea of sex, and reprovide feminine and masculine image. So his design tend homosexuality because he regard women's glamor and ostensible sexuality as standard of beauty, he apply this to man's wear as well as women's wear. With this, he expresses sensitive and liberal man's that break characteristic of Gender that symbolize power and authority in man's wear through 'Without ties'.