• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.681-706
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• 2000

This study is intended to understand an implication system and significance in the current community which a body image symbolizes by correlating it with fashion that is on the rise as a principal issue in various fields. For this study, the symbolism of the body image was contemplated in terms of philosophy and art, and then on the basis of it, the symbolism of the body image shown in modern fashion design was analyzed through fashion works. The research results are as follows, 1. The manifestation of sex can be taken as the symbolism of the body image which is expressed in modern fashion design. Recently sexual chaos and vagueness such as homosexuality and bisexuality are expressed through a dress and its ornaments. Though displaying sexual characteristics of male and female as they are exposing a sign or a diagram, decorating a part of body or representing sex in garments, uncertain sex identity in modern society is manifested in dress and its ornaments. It is to deny absoluteness regarding sex and emphasize diversity indwelt in human beings, and after all it shows to pursue the human essence. 2. Another symbolism of the body image is body expression as the human race and an ethnic group. The discriminating situations and the restoration of their status appeared in modern fashion too. Moreover, their cultures and issues came to alter the aesthetic standard of body made from a view of the Western white supremacist. Hereupon, fashion trends like ethnic fashion, Orientalism and African look etc. appear according to this tendency, which represents race and national identity and in addition, which signifies to present transcendental human conception embracing alienated human conception. 3. The symbolism of the body image expressed in a body, and a dress and its ornaments as nature can be considered in terms of the concern on environmental contamination and the respect of echo system. Getting away from reigning over, developing and stamping down nature at their will, the human beings pursue unity with nature, which is described in fashion. They are stressing that natural materials and objects such as animal, plant and soil etc. should activily be introduced into fashion and humans are a communal fate group and should reframe their status in nature at last. 4. The body image shown in a body, a dress and its ornaments as technology is transformed and recreated by modern scientific techniques and medical science to show post human conception namely, forthcoming future human conception as a cyborg which loses individual identity. This presents a perfect future human conception with high level of preternatural power but after all, leaves us a task to seek the meaning of human existence in alienation caused by the loss of human identity and existence. In this manner, the moderns crave for perceiving the identity of a natural human being in the current thoughts tendency of the modern times such as postmodernism, post structuralism, deconstructionism, feminism and so on, which build discussions affecting the art and fashion worlds. The categories, like sexual characteristics indwelt in a human body, racial classifications, the natural environment surrounding human beings and development of science, bring out the importance of the internal and external meaning in today's fashion which a human body contains, and present sew human conception in the coming future society.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.261-276
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• 2010

The analysis of an art trend in the principle dimension starts by observing the object of work in the perspective of formative composition and recognizing it as a universal system. It can be said that it is consistent with an interpretation method for a form theory of formal history by Heinrich W$\ddot{o}$lfflin, a leading form critic in art criticism. Hence, the purpose of this study was to find out what are the formative principles in Renaissance Classicism as a design principle to be applicable to modern fashion by reviewing the formative characteristics of Renaissance Classicism Architecture with which W$\ddot{o}$lfflin directly dealt. As for the theoretical literature review, I used W$\ddot{o}$lfflin's theoretical framework and looked at the Renaissance Classicism Architecture that he studied and examined the possibility of utilizing his theory as a layout principle and the characteristics. As for analysis of design cases, I applied the aforementioned architecture layout principle to modern fashion and conducted case study analysis to delve into distinctive layout principles found in fashion. The study showed that the Renaissance Classicism Architectural Style is marked by linearity, planarity, closing and multiple unity: linearity was expressed in the observation form in fixed frontal view and an emphasis on a tangible silhouette homeogenous and definite line structures; planarity was achieved in the form of paralleled layers of frontal view element, planarity style, and identical and proportional repetition of various sizes.; closing signified the pursuit of complete and clear regularity, and architecture developed in a constructive phase through organizational inevitability and absolute invariability.; multiple unity was expressed in self-completedness and independent parallel of discrete forms and harmony of emphasized individual elements in a totality. Applying these layout characteristics of the Renaissance Classicism Architectural style and to see their individual expressive features, I found out that in adopting layout principles of the Renaissance Classicism Architecture to modern fashion, it turned out to be an emphasis of individual silhouettes, a flattened space, completed objects, organic harmony among independent parts: the emphasis of individual silhouettes was expressed in individual definitiveness of formative lines of clothes in accordance with body joints and an emphasis on formative lines of clothes; the flattened space was marked by single layer structure, planarity of elements of clothes, and listing arrangement by appropriate proportion.; the completedness of the objects was expressed by the stationary state where overall image is fixed, the construction of homogeneous and complete space, and absolute inevitability of internal layout in proportion; lastly, organic harmony of independent parts was stressed in independent completedness of each detail, and organic harmony of the whole. The expressive features would lead to a unique expression style of linear emphasis, proportion, constructive forms, and two-dimensional arrangement. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.977-990
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• 2010

Today, as individuals show their social identities and reflect their being as the members of society with a culture, an art style and communication function are stood out in fashion photographs. Accordingly, the meanings of images into text are expanded in its interpretative width through the acceptor's various terms. This researcher looked into four theories of both positions on the textuality of language and image, and considered the point of discussion on image of each theory through modern fashion photographs. First, the theory which divides language and image as auditory and visual recognitions in the textuality of language and image is limited from the view it focuses on only one side without considering the ambivalent elements of each field. For the textuality in modern fashion photographs, the observer attempts to turn it into text to give meaning to it as the recognition through five senses conforming to the acceptor's condition. Second, the theory dividing language and image into the text of time properties and spacial properties has limitation in the text, for acceptor's experience of the object appears as the structured form in time and space rather than being defined as two things like time and space. Third, the theory classifying the language and image text into conventional taste and natural taste has limitation from the view that image text is hardly an object of consistent classification in ease of recognition by the code accepted in society. Thus, this can't be fundamental approach for the understanding of the text of decoding trend represented in modern fashion photographs. Fourth, accordingly, this researcher focussed on contextual and arbitrary text of fashion photographs through the theory of Nelson Goodman which discusses image text through the differences in textuality. Basic mechanism of perceiving and recognizing and distinguish image is closely related to habit and custom like language. So, each acceptor perceives the image as a text through arbitrary interpretation obtained by individual, empirical, historical, and educational viewpoints. The textuality of modern fashion photographs aims to widen the range of diverse knowledge and understanding, transcending the regulations of simple function of existing fashion photographs. Consequently, this researcher puts forward the opinion of consistent and diverse follow-up studies on instilling meaning into fashion photographs for the understanding de-regulatory and de-constructive through various senses by avoiding only one sense-dependent fixed and regulatory properties of it.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.83-90
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• 2023

최근 젊은 세대의 전통 복식 체험이나, 퓨전 한복의 일상복화 등의 추세에 따라 한복용 헤어 액세서리의 개발이 필요한 실정이다. 본 논문의 연구 목적은 왕실 여성의 머리 장식을 활용하여 한복과 어울리는 실용적이고 현대적인 헤어 액세서리 디자인을 개발하여 한복 문화를 활용한 패션 콘텐츠 개발의 영역을 확장시키고, 전통 문화의 다양한 경험에 대한 수요를 충족시키는 것이다. 연구 방법은 문헌연구를 통해서 전통 머리모양 및 영왕비의 전통 장신구들을 조사하였고, 실증연구로 실물을 제작하였다. 제작과정은 먼저 전통 머리모양을 응용하여 나일론 메쉬로 기본 형태를 만들었고, 그 위에 장엄하고 화려한 왕실 유물을 활용한 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅 원단을 접목하여 궁극적으로 전통 장신구를 착용한 듯한 트롱프뢰유 기법을 줄 수 있도록 디자인을 설계하였다. 결과적으로 총 6개의 헤어 액세서리 디자인이 완성되었으며, 헤어 밴드, 헤어 핀, 헤어 고무밴드의 구조로 제작하였다. 또한 착용자의 헤어 스타일에 관계 없이 간편하게 착용할 수 있도록 하였고 나일론 메쉬 소재의 특유의 빳빳하면서 유연한 재질을 이용하여 볼륨감 있는 머리 모양을 효과적으로 표현하였는데, 이는 마치 머리카락과도 같은 시각적인 착시 효과를 즐길 수 있다는 장점이 있다. 이러한 연구 결과를 통해 일상의 유희와 희소성 있는 가치를 추구하는 대중들에게도 독특한 미적, 문화적 경험을 제시할 수 있을 것으로 생각된다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제38권12호
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• pp.257-269
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• 2000

예술작품은 의상디자인에 영감 혹은 영향을 줌으로써 상업적 의상으로 재생산된다. 오늘날까지도 60년대의 많은 팝 아티스트 작품들이 그대로 T셔츠 등에 프린트되는 것을 쉽게 볼 수 있다. 이러한 직접적 영향에는 자주 맹목적 표절이라는 논란을 불러 일으켰으나 긍정적이든 부정적이든 예술작품과 의상 디자인은 20세기초부터 밀접한 관계를 가져왔다. Sonia Delaunay는 예술을 대중과 결합시키는 가장 좋은 방법은 의상을 통해서라고 생각하였다. 그녀는 "만일 예술작품을 생활 속에 들어가게 하려면 그건 여성들 자신이 입고 다니는 방법뿐이다". 라고 말하였다. 결국 이러한 예술의 대중화에 대한 이론은 60년대에 와서 팝 아트 패션의 출현으로 그 결실을 보게 된다. 상류층을 대상으로 한 의상이 대중화되는 과정에서 60년대 경제호황으로 인한 젊은이들의 소비자층 형성과 미술양식에서의 팝아트의 출현은 자연스러운 시대적 조류로 나타났다. 이러한 상황은 팝 아트가 이 시대의 미술 양식에 혁신적일 뿐 아니라, 사회 전반에 팝 아트의 특성(소비 문화적, 대중 문화적, 재현적, 통속적, 기계적, 획일적)을 유행시키고, 대중에게 순수 예술과 복식에 참여 할 수 있는 기회를 부여했다고 볼 수 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 가장 혁명적이고도 대중적이라고 할 수 있는 팝 아트 이미지의 작품 제작과 분석을 통하여 현재 논의되고 있는 전시회나 패션쇼에서만 볼 수 있다는 다소 아방가르드 적인 의상 작품들의 대중화 방안에 대한 해결책을 모색하고자 하였다. 실제 의상 디자인 창작에 초점을 맞추었으며, 제작을 위해서 팝 아트에서 주요 소재로 삼았고 대중적 이미지의 심볼이라고도 할 수 있는 Coca Cola label을 표현 모티브로 삼아 개성적이고도 독창적인 의상 디자인을 한 후 분석하였다. 또한 독특한 의상 표현의 개발을 위하여 표현 기법으로는 현대 미술에서 새로운 재료와 여러 가지 재료를 화면에 도입시키는 표현 방법으로서 사용된 콜라주 기법을 사용하였다. 본 연구를 통하여 의상 창작에 있어 조형예술과 연결하여 대중적인 이미지를 도입함으로써 착용자가 예술에 대한 친근하고 익숙한 느낌을 갖게 하며, 예술과 상품 그 자체에 대한 상업적 홍보 목적으로도 사용할 수 있으며, 대중적인 이미지를 표현함에 있어 콜라주 기법은 염색 기법을 사용하지 않고서도 작가가 원하는 표현 효과를 낼 수 있다는 측면을 발견할 수 있었다. 즉 사용된 대중적 상표 이미지는 주인에서 흔히 볼 수 있는 현대 도시의 인공적 환경들로, 의상을 독특하고 개성 있게 표현할 수 있는 모티브의 역할을 하면서 또한 그 예가 무한하여 다양한 디자인 창출의 가능성을 갖고 있으며, 의상을 통해 예술과 대중을 융합시켰다는 예술의 대중화, 민주화라는 중요한 역할을 하였다. 전시회나 패션쇼에서 만 볼 수 있는 예술적 성격을 띠는 아방가르드 작품의 대중 확산 방법으로 제시될 수 있는 이상적인 방법으로는 예술성이 짙은 도저히 입을 수 없다고 생각되어지는 아방가르드한 의상을 일반 대중 브랜드들이 단순한 모방이 아닌 새로운 패러디 작업으로 일반화시켜 상업성을 띤 의상으로 재조정되어 여성들의 몸에 걸치게 하는 것이다. 이와 같은 순환으로써, 조형예술 작품은 의상 디자인 참작에 영향, 영감을 주면서 여러 번의 형태 변화를 거치는 패러디를 통해 각 계층의 누구나가 좋아하고 접할 수 있는 또 다른 창조를 맞아 대중의 손까지 갈 수 있는 것이다.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.343-353
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• 2021

사극 드라마는 더욱 극적인 전개를 원하는 대중들의 취향에 따라 퓨전 형태로 변화하고 있으며, 고증 의상 또한 현대적인 감각으로 표현되고 있다. 본 연구는 사극 드라마에 나타난 고증 의상의 현대화의 사례 탐색 및 학습자의 인식을 조명해보고, 향후 사극 드라마에서 고증 의상의 현대화에 대한 함의점을 제시해보는데 목적이 있다. 연구 방법은 이론적 연구와 사례 연구 및 하브루타 학습법을 통한 서술형 설문지 응답법을 병행하였다. 본 연구의 결과로 첫째, 사극 드라마에서 고증의상의 현대화에 대한 본질적인 문제는 사극 드라마의 역사적 사실을 저해하는 고증의상의 과도한 현대적 변용으로 나타났다. 둘째, 사극 드라마에서 고증의상의 현대화에 대한 대학생들의 부정적인 인식으로는 한국 고유의 정체성 상실, 드라마의 몰입도 저하, 미디어가 갖는 교육적 영향력의 견해가 주를 이루었다. 긍정적인 인식으로는 전통 문화의 인식 제고를 통한 관심 증대, 시대적 흐름의 변화에 대한 절충, 대중들의 시각적 유희 증대의 견해가 주를 이루었다. 셋째, 사극 드라마에서 고증의상의 효과적인 연출 방향에 대한 함의점은 사극 드라마 관계자들의 인식개선과 고증의상에 대한 의상디자이너의 철저한 사전 조사, 전통복식에 대한 심층적인 연구와 체계적이고 명확한 교육적 접근, 정부의 노력과 시청자들의 관심이 필요하다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.280-291
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to research characteristics of costume which is expressed in Gustav Klimt's Paintings. In the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20century Vienna, considered to be the fashion Mecca after Paris, the creativity of such artists allowed the 'Anti-Fashion Movement' to set itself up against the frippery of the costume of the time. The Secession Movement received the effect of Art Nouveau and Symbolism and Klimt led of this movement as a forerunner in Vienna. Many women appealed in Klimt's Painting with unique costume which contrast to traditional fashion that period time. The characteristics of costume in his paintings are as follows. Firstly, Klimt drew in the women's costume which made by designers of Vienna Workshops, at one of motive of his work of art. Costume got a opportunity became a new art field, because there was no conceptual thinking of a fashion designer at that time. Secondly, the costume of Klimt' paintings had both anti-fashion design and elements of fashion, so he gained considerable support from leaders of high fashion who was the upper classes. Thirdly, both anti-fashion and fashion appeared in his painting at first period. Costume which made at the Vienne Workshop appealed portraits of Klimt paints at the second period. Klimt interested in Naturalism, Japonism, Orientalism and Greece style and expressed his characteristic techniques at the last period. Lastly, Klimt liberated the woman from a physical and spirit restriction through his various artistic presentations.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.104-113
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• 2015

적극적인 여가 시간의 활용으로 생활 스포츠와 관련된 스포츠 패션은 계속 발전되고 있다. 이에 비하여 국내 수영복 산업 분야는 특화된 트렌드 분석과 디자인 개발 등에서 타 영역에 비하여 앞서 가지 못하고 있는 실정이다. 본 연구는 국내 수영복 디자인의 사회 문화적 배경에 따른 디자인 트렌드를 고찰하여 현대복식사적인 흐름의 연구와 함께 패션 디자인 요소를 분석하여 수영복 디자인 개발을 위한 기초 연구 자료를 제공하는데 목적이 있다. 연구범위로는 1960년대부터 2014년 최근까지의 수집된 국내 수영복 브랜드의 상품 카탈로그 138권과 웹 사이트 8종의 1004스타일 자료에서 수영복 착장 사진 총 9,549개를 분석 대상으로 선정하여 이미지에 나타난 실루엣, 소재, 색상, 텍스타일 디자인 등의 조형적 특성을 분석하는 방법으로 진행하였다. 연구결과 사회 문화적 변화의 주기가 짧아지고, 트렌드가 다양화됨에 따라 수영복의 디자인도 변화의 폭이 커졌음을 알 수 있었다. 특히, 컬러와 텍스타일 디자인의 다양한 콘셉트 전개가 두드러졌다. 또한, 기술적으로는 신소재의 개발과 원단 프린팅 기술의 발전으로 착용감은 더욱 향상시키면서도 디자인의 구현이 용이한 방향으로 발전하고 있다고 할 수 있다. 이상 연구의 결과는 국내 시장에서의 수영복 디자인 개발에 기본 자료로서 활용 가능할 것이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2001

This study was intended to investigate the contemporary meaning of transparent design expressed in contemporary fashion by inquiring into its plasticity expressed in contemporary design and fashion and analyzing the association between them. It used the comparative anesthetic method widely used by H. W lfflin and other scholars in eliciting the differences and similarities in styles. It attempted to investigate the plasticity of transparent design expressed in contemporary design by dividing it into the epidermal, spatial and ideological effects. Contemporary design expressed the epidermal effects such as lightness(nimbleness), smoothness, contrast and stress It expressed the spatial effects such as spatial flexibility through the interpenetration of interior and exterior spaces, expansion of the space and the like. And it expressed ideological effects such as openness, pureness, playfulness and the like. In terms of lightness, contemporary design expressed actual or visual lightness by using transparent materials. In terms of the interpenetration of interior and exterior spaces, it expressed the interpenetration of the interior space into the exterior spaces and vice versa. In terms of spatial expansion, contemporary design expressed the infinite spatial connection by drawing the exterior space into the interior space. Contrast and stress were formed by imposing visual unity on contemporary fashion by using opaque and transparent materials. In terms of openness, contemporary design expressed contemporary people's candor and dependability by making the inside of the building or object look outward. To express pureness, contemporary design used the clear and transparent image by using the glass or translucent materials taking on the pure property. To express playfulness, contemporary made use of the vagueness of the spatial boundary, the locational switching of inner and outer spaces, and interesting external forms occurring when light pass through opaque and transparent materials.