• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.199-206
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• 2004

Construction of a large offshore structure in coastal area may cause serious morphological changes for a wide region ranging from shoreline to offshore behind the structure. Shin et at. [2000] and Shin and Hong [2004] identified the sediment transport patterns behind the large offshore structure through a series of three dimensional movable bed experiments. In present study, a hybrid three dimensional beach deformation model was suggested based on those sediment transport mechanisms revealed by experimental results of the preceding studies. The model was verified by the results of the three dimensional moveable bed experiments and they agreed well not only in reappeared tombolo in shoreline side but also in the erosion and deposition region behind offshore structure. In addition, the model was applied to real beach deformation problem, which was occurred by construction of artificial offshore islands, and it validates the applicability of the model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.151-160
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• 2002

A modeling system for three-dimensional flow (FEMOS) has been developed and applied to simulate the tidal currents of Asan Bay. The system can consider tidal flats changing with time and uses a finite element method that can adapt coastline change effectively. The simulation results for Asan Bay with large tidal flats, shallow water depth and high tidal range showed good agreements with the observed currents of long-term variations at the medium layer and short-term variations of vertical profiles. Based on the simulated tidal currents, the horizontal distributions of bottom shear stress were calculated and showed close relation with the change of bottom topography. The system can be used widely to study coastal circulation in the coastal region with complex geography.

• Journal of the Korean Association of Geographic Information Studies
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.54-63
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• 2009

Various methods have been employed for acquiring beach surface data, which are used to monitor shoreline changes due to beach erosion. This study explores the possibility of constructing and implementing a surface model of beach using data acquired with a terrestrial laser scanner and RTK-GPS. Digital images and three-dimensional data of beach areas acquired at 20 cm intervals using a laser scanner were used to create a digital surface model covered with digital image. Seven months later, the beach area was surveyed using an RTK-GPS, and another beach model was constructed using the data collected with an accuracy of 1.9 cm. The use of a terrestrial laser scanner is expected to ensure acquisition of good quality results and help deal with seasonal changes in beach areas. Because readings obtained with the RTK-GPS are dependent on the number of sampling points in beach model, difficulties are encountered when fixing the survey points. However, RTK-GPS could be used to implement a three-dimensional model by correcting the hidden parts in images obtained using a terrestrial laser scanner. Therefore, an RTK-GPS and a terrestrial laser scanner can be used in combination to obtain more precise data for the construction of beach model data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.408-415
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• 2016

Small fishing ports and coastal structures installed in a relatively low sea water depth disturb the wave induced current and cause the collapse of equilibrium state of sediment transport. These structures creates diffracted waves and matter the concentration of waves to cause the beach erosion. In order to mitigate these eroding problems on the beach, many counter measurements were proposed such as detached breakwater, groin or headland; however, these methods interrupt the aesthetic view of sandy beach due to the exposed structures above the sea level and have difficulty of applying to those beaches with the good scenery. Furthermore, some of these methods create secondary environmental problems after the installations. To eliminate these problems, one of the countermeasures, artificial reefs have been selected and used worldwide to minimize the disturbance of the scenery and secondary effects on the environment. Meanwhile, it is important to set the design elements for installing the artificial reefs such as that of length, opening width, clearing distances from the shoreline and more. Nevertheless, there are no construction manuals or standards for designing the artificial reefs with these important design elements yet. In this study, different conditions of artificial reefs were used with various cases throughout hydraulic model test to precisely analyze the changes of waves and currents to propose the standards of design elements to install the artificial reefs.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.116-122
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• 2018

Dean's equilibrium beach profile formula was used to investigate the correlation between the static shoreline position and the incident wave energy. The effect of the longshore sediment transport was neglected, and the results showed the reasonable agreement compared with the field observations of Yates et al.(2009), which were conducted for almost 5 years on southern California beaches, USA. The shoreline response varies with the scale factor of Dean's equilibrium beach profile. This implies that the shoreline response could be simply estimated using the sampled grain size without laborious long-term field work. Therefore, the present study results are expected to be practically used for the layout design of submerged or exposed detached breakwaters although the further work is required for performance verification. In addition, after laborous mathematical reviews, the linear relation between incident energy and shoreline response, which was obtained from Yates's field study, yielded a clear mathematical equation showing how the beach slope is related to the grain size.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2002

In a physically realistic but simplified manner, an attempt is made in this study to develop a predictive model for swash hydrodynamics across the shore due to the storm waves on an arbitrary beach profile. Date from the SUPERTANK laboratory Data Collection Project are used for the model development, in which experiments were designed to simulate dune erosion under storm conditions at a prototype scale. The model predicts variations of swash height, velocity and period across the beach face in a swash zone. In general, the model proves to be capable of predicting variations of swash height, velocity and period across the shore. Quantitatively better predictions for the swash parameters could be achieved by improving the prediction of the beach face elevation, ymax, where the significant swash height becomes zero.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.95-102
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• 1996

The skewness of near-bottom velocity distribution caused by the nonlinear interaction of the second order waves proposed by Wells (1967) has been re-evaluated. The direction of cross-shore sediment transport was related to the sign of the third moment (skewness) of velocity distribution, and a new concept of neutral depth which can explain the recovery of beach equilibrium after a disturbance is suggested. The seasonal change of beach profile due to the change of wave condition (storm-swell profile) is interpreted in terms of nonlinear interaction of the waves rather than the conventional wave steepness. The beach is eroded (storm profile) when the nonlinear interaction of the waves is strong (storm wave), whereas the beach is accreted (swell profile) when the nonlinear interaction is weak (swell wave).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.506-515
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• 2020

Surfing is a sport sensitive to changes in the natural environment, using naturally occurring waves. In other words, factors such as the construction of coastal structures, coastal erosion, and sediment transportation could cause the wave to change into a direction inappropriate for surfing at the shore where surfable waves were reaching. In this study, we call the characteristics of the coastal environment that affect the formation of surfable waves as surfing resources, which is subsequently analyzed by coastal engineering methodologies. Also, using Delft3D-WAVE module (SWAN model), a way to evaluate sustainability of surfable wave is suggested through analysis of surfing resources at Jukdo, Yangyang, Gangwon Province, Republic of Korea.