• Title/Summary/Keyword: 한국 복식미

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The Research of Pin-up Style's Influence on Fashion (핀업스타일이 패션에 미친 영향에 관한 연구)

  • Young-Sam Kim;Heungsook Chung;Sun-Hwa Kim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.1
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    • pp.159-170
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    • 2003
  • 핀업은 제2차 세계대전기간동안 매력적인 여성들의 성적인 사진들을 군일들이 그들의 숙소 벽에 부착함으로서 생겨난 신조어이다. 이러한 핀업들은 영화의 발달로 인하여 헐리우드 스타들과 같은 발전된 형태로서 나타나게 됐으며, 그들의 스타일은 하나의 패션 트랜드를 만들었다. 본 연구의 목적은 핀업의 스타일을 역사적 관점에서 고찰하여 특성을 분석하며 핀업 스타일이 역사적으로 어떠한 변화를 통하여 오늘날의 현대패션까지 영향을 미치게 되었는가를 연구하는 것이다. 연구방법은 관련된 문헌고찰을 통한 역사학적 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 핀업의 범주를 설정하고 관련자료를 수집하였다. 그리고 핀업 스타일의 공시적, 통시적 고찰, 역사적 변천과 특성을 분석하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치가 패션에 어떠한 영향을 미치고 있는지를 연구해보았다. 연구 결과 핀업 그 스스로는 역사적 고찰을 통하여 그 가치를 지니며, 핀업 스타일의 변화는 구조적으로 이루어지며, 구조는 세대와 취향에 따라 변화하며 패션에 지속적으로 영향을 미치고 있었다.

A Study on Aesthetic Traits of Japanese Traditional Costumes in Rei Kawakubo's Fashion - Focused on Comme des Garḉons' F/W 2011~S/S 2016 Men's Collections - (레이 카와쿠보의 패션에 나타난 일본 전통복식 미학 특성 연구 - 꼼 데 가르송 2011 F/W ~ 2016 S/S 맨즈컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Li, Aizhen;Choi, Sooah
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.8
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    • pp.125-135
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    • 2015
  • This study is a theoretical research based on previous domestic and international researches. The case study proceeded by collecting images from periodicals such as International Men's magazine GQ, First of all website(www.style.com) and Vogue website(www.vogue.com) were viewed. The images were selected had shapes, colors, and motives with Japanese aesthetic traits from Comme des Garçons' men's Collections of 2011 F/W to 2016 S/S. The purpose of this study is to find out the possible sources of forms and expressive methods of future fashion through Japanese traditional aesthetics of Rai Kawakubo's fashion world. Designers are expected to continue on using traditional aesthetic beauties of other countries as sources of modern fashion.

A Study on the Expression of a Trance Aesthetic Consciousness of Continuity in Contemporary Fashion (현대 패션에 나타난 연속성의 트랜스 미의식에 관한 연구)

  • Yang, Hee-Young;Lee, Kyung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.8
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    • pp.74-90
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    • 2008
  • Since the late of 20th Century, philosophy, art, and aesthetics have attention to the movement of object that persue the dynamics and qualitative change, not existing fixed and quantitative object. Qualitative continuity, including discontinuity of specific spot and surface that occurs sudden change, is distinct characteristics considered in contemporary logo civilization, which combines and disperses according as various purpose among the different elements and objects. Therefore, I studied about the characteristics of qualitative continuity that creates the change and the differentiation continuously through the "formative characteristics of the continuity expressed in contemporary fashion" of my preceding paper. This paper is the following study of above mentioned paper, and Investigates about aesthetic consciousness leading to the various change. This is intends to consider the trans-aesthetic consciousness that accepts dynamic movement and change the different object and reforms new relationship continuously. This studies' conclusion is as follows; 1) sublimity-Infinity, de-constructive, excessive 2) jouissance - functional, structural 3) paradox-perceptual, spatial. A study about the trans-aesthetic consciousness would help to offer philosophical basis, and make a change building aesthetic foundation in explaining various relationship like as phenomenon of the retro, neo, post, fusion expressed since the late of 20th Century.

A Study on Fashion Design Using Geometric Pattern (기하학적 패턴을 활용한 패션디자인 연구)

  • 김신우;금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.1
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    • pp.53-67
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    • 2002
  • 자연을 분석함으로써, 얻어진 기하학적 패턴은 이미 자연의 질서를 포함하고 있는 논리적이고 합리적인 기본형이기 때문에 간결하며 시각적으로 명쾌감을 준다. 이러한 기하학적 패턴은 복식 디자인에 있어서 20 세기 이후 여러 디자이너의 작품을 통해 재구성되어 현대적 이미지를 나타내는 중요한 모티브가 되고 있으며, 다양한 기법과 재료로 형성화하여 도입되고 있다. 이에 본 연구는 복식의 문양, 실루엣, 디테일에 사용되고 있는 기하학적 패턴을 연구함으로써 기하학적 패턴의 새로운 조형가치를 고찰하였다. 먼저 기하학의 용어 정의를 하였고 기하학적 패턴의 유형과 표현 기법을 분석하고 정리하여 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학적 패턴의 조형미와 그것을 바탕으로 패션 이미지를 추론해 보았다. 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학 패턴을 분석해 보면 유형으로는 첫째, 기하하적 문양으로 복식디자인에 있어서 주로 평면적인 형태로 많이 나타나지만, 크기가 다르고 동일한 기하학적 패턴을 조합시킴으로서 평면적인 형태에 공간감을 부여하기도 하며, 같은 기하학적 패턴의 표면이라도 배치구조에 의해 직선 혹은 사선으로 지각되므로 전혀 다른 이미지를 주었다. 또한 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학적 패턴이 종류는 세로 스트라이프, 가로 스트라이프, 격자 문양, 원, 사선 스트라이프, 마름모, 사각형, 삼각형 등의 순서로 많이 나타났다. 둘째, 색채는 단색의 복식에 강한 대비가 이루어지는 색상으로 표현되어 역동감과 유연한 운동감을 나타났다. 셋째, 기하학적 실루엣으로 단순한 라인의 형태를 나타내거나 입체적이고 부조적인 형태로 구성되어 전체적인 실루엣으로 사용되어 강한 조형감각을 보여주는데 원형을 이용한 실루엣이 가장 많았으며 사각형을 이용한 실루엣, 삼각형을 이용한 실루엣 순서로 나타났다. 넷째, 기하학적인 디테일로 복식의 어느 한 부분에 장식적으로 사용되거나 입체적 형태로 부출 되어 부조적인 느낌을 주는데 소매에 가장 많이 나타났으며 앞여밈, 칼라, 밑단, 주머니 순서로 장식되었다. 다섯째, 현대 패션에 표현된 기하학적 패턴의 표현기법으로는 프린팅, 퀼팅, piece기법, 패치워크, 엮기, 꼴라쥬, 아플리케 순서로 많이 나타났다. 위의 분석을 토대로 기하학 패턴을 활용한 디자인에 내재된 조형의지는 다음과 같이 정리되었다. 첫째, 기하학적 패턴이 지닌 단순성과 경직성을 완화하기 위하여 여러 가지 패브릭을 조합시켜 입체적인 표면효과로 시각적인 착시효과를 극대화하였다. 둘째, 표현기법은 입체파적 표현주의의 특성의 하나로 복시에 사용되는 소재의 왜곡으로 설명할 수 있으며, 새롭고 실험적인 소재의 도입으로 인해 의외성과 부조화를 유발시키는 통시에 유희직인 일면도 지니는 일종의 그로테스크를 나타냈다. 이상에서 정립된 조형의지를 바탕으로 현대 패션에 나타란 기하학 패턴은 절제된 단순함과 명확성으로 단순미가 유추되었고 강한 색상대비로 인한 시각적 집중효과로 주목성을 가지며 재현이 가능하므로 반복성이 유추되었다. 그리고 표준영역이 없는 창의적 표현으로 풍부한 독창성을 보여주고 있다. 또한 내재된 패션 이미지를 분석해 보면 정확함과 차가움의 의미를 지닌 이지적 이미지와 우주의 질서를 반영하는 상징적 이미지, 복잡한 자연으로부터 간결한 형태로의 경향성이 이루어낸 인공적 이미지를 느낄 수 있었으며, 미래적 이미지와 전통적 이미지의 상반된 개념의 이미지를 같이 내포하고 있음을 추론할 수 있었다. 이와 같이 현대 패션에 표현된 기하학적 패턴은 복식을 조형예술 분야로 확실히 인식시키고 발전시키는 데 중요한 촉매제 역할을 담당하고 있으며 또한 많은 디자이너들에게 창조적 욕구를 불러일으키고 영감을 주는데 중요한 모티브를 제공하고 있다.

한국복식(韓國服飾)에 표현(表現)된 흔들림과 떨림의 미(美)

  • Geum, Gi-Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.15
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    • pp.121-130
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    • 1990
  • This study is focused on the swinging and trembling effect expressed in Korean costume from ancient days to the present. The swinging is a term standing for gentle movements that are created and implied by the long ties, strings, tassels, pendants and hanging ornamentations. These attatched elements of the costume move as the wearer moves. Trembling is a term expressing small vibrating movement which is created by the tiny decorative motifs attatched to Korean costume. This little decorative elements were attatched to the royal crown, earings, necklaces even the sole of the metalic shoes for a change and to draw viewers attention. The Swinging and Trembling have been used mainly to express the decorative desires. The Swinging on shaman costume is a expression of the aesthetics of evil's eye, while the Swinging shown on the costume of a schalor is expressing the beauty of personality and nature. In General during the Choson Period, the Swinging of the tassels, ribbons, string belts is a expression of the beauty of nature. Consequently the Swinging and the Trembling are the typical examples of the "Meot"(멋), Korean traditional aesthetics.

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Optical illusions in Clothing Form Designs for the Ideal Beauty of Human bodies - from the Ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period - (이상적인 인체미 구현을 위한 복식 디자인의 착시효과 - 고대 이집트 시대부터 낭만주의 시대까지 -)

  • 이옥희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.4
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    • pp.15-30
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    • 2001
  • The purpose 7f this study is to investigate the change of the ideal beauty of human bodies and the related clothing form designs from the ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period in the aspect of optical illusions effects to achieve the ideal beauty so that we can accumulate the knowledges for the modern clothing form design and the related optical illusion effects. The scope of this study is limited to the female body forms and female dress forms. The analysis on the optical illusions in the dress forms of the various period relied on the literatures and some representative photographs and figures. The important results are as follows : 1. In the body Priority type designs of Egypt, Greece and Rome, the natural Beauty of human bodies was represented by H type silhouett, the smooth and transparent drapery materials were used with radiant line pleats resulting in slant optical illusions. 2. In the clothing priority type designs of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Romantic Period, manteau, cotehardie, hennin and poulain were used to emphasize long arms and legs, high waists, belly curves and large heads resulting in optical illusions of vertical emphasize. Also long train, farthingale and panier were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in the optical illusions of Titchener alld Lipps. Large and complex patterns showed the optical illusions of Aubert. 3. In the clothing priority/body concealment type of Byzantine period, thick materials with precious gems and voluminous silhouettes were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in optical illusions of materials.

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The Aesthtic Consciousness of Voluminous Enlargement in the Western Costume - From Ancient to the Modern Times - (서양복식에 나타난 양적과장의 미의식에 관한 연구(I) -고대부터 근대복식을 중심으로-)

  • 성광숙;이순홍
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.6
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    • pp.101-117
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    • 2004
  • Opposed to following the contours of the human body, the voluminous enlargement in costume, which characterizes the distinguished enlargement in space rather than the contour of human body, mean the enlargement aspect involving the vertical protrusion and the expansion of shape and volume as well as the extension of length. The costume enlargement as a different method of expression is a symbol showing a meaning of something and an aesthetic expression containing man's will. This voluminous enlargement of costume, as an aesthetic expression, has different formative characteristicsand immanent meanings according to ideals and thoughts as well as social and cultural background of each age Accordingly, the aesthetic consciousness also differaccording to the change of the times. To study the aesthetic consciousness of costume's voluminous enlargement, focous had been given to milieus that show comparatively conspicuous voluminous enlargement Periods that have been subjected to this study include costumes of the ancient Egypt, the Gothic period in the Middle age, the Renaissance, the Baroque Rococo of the recent times, and the modern era (Empire, Romantic, Art Nouveau. etc) With focus given to the principle of design obtained through this study were used to analyze the aesthetic characteristics, Futhermore, based on the spirit of the times and the socio-cultural symbolism, research on immanent meanings, as supported by objectivity and universal validity, was also made, the enlargement beauty of costume had been placed under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness, the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To Conclude, the aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costumes in history was found to have following characteristics: (l) Metaphorical (2) Unlooked-for irregularity (3) feeling of satisfaction driven by self-enlargement (4) Dignified sublimity (5) Symbol of wealth and class (6) Ceremonial dignity (7) Tradition of the nobility (8) Aesthetic ornament (9) Ideal contour of the body

A Study on the Kingdom of KokuRyo, King's Costumes, MyunRyu Kwan Bok (중국 남북조시대 고구려 국왕 사여복식과 고구려 면류관에 관한 연구)

  • Im Myung-Mi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.5 s.95
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2005
  • The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Kokuryo has been the exchange foreign relationship with the Han dynasty era, from king DaiMuSin 25 years to Bojang 27 years. 2 King of Kokuryo, from The North-Wei-dynasty has been received ceremonial costumes, first-third class of China's official rank. After unification of China, Su, Dang dynasty's envoy and missionary and many commercial men and artist come from China to Kokuryo, therefore, influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peoples costumes, without concern of that one's social position. 3. Kokuryo King's ceremonial costumes are not the same as the China. Kokuryo performed a religious service an emperor's ceremony. And the Kokuryo King's religious mind was the Budism and Daoism. So that mural painting just showing the symbolic of the king's costumes , Myunryukwanbok.

A Study on Modern Costume Design applied the Formativity of Korean Traditional Cloth Wrappers (전통조각보를 응용한 현대 의상 디자인 연구 - 면 구성적 특징을 중심으로-)

  • 조해정;김정희
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.7-18
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    • 2000
  • Study of Costume Design Applied The Formativity of Korean Traditional Cloth Wrappers Costume has been coexistion with man ever sine human history began, and in modem society its role in man's living, culture and art has become so great that It is now an object most refreshing and of extensive concern to man. This study, based on the expressive quality and purity of Korean traditional cloth wrappers which have the formativity continuously pursueing new visual inspirations, is to seek new expressional diversities and rediscover our traditional beauty and at the same time to present possibilities of reflecting more unique, new spirit of the times inherent in our culture and of creating certain formative world of design value. In studying, literary reference as atheoretical background, analysis of the formative characteristics of traditional cloth wrappers through corrobcrative data preserved as a cultural asset at museums, and actual making of eight works in total based on the results of analysis have been paralled.

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The Functions and Meanings of Korea Ancient Gagye (한국(韓國) 고대(古代) 가계의 기능(機能)과 의미(意味))

  • Yim, Lynn;Kim, Eun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.2
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    • pp.18-28
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    • 2009
  • Korea Ancient Gagye in Clothing history has the following meanings with ceremonial, social, and aesthetic aspects, related to symbolism of its formality and procedures, flexibility about social aspects, and clothing beauty. First, Gagye must be worn in formal ceremonies with its clothes. Different Gagye in different time and place means the symbolism of its formality and ceremonies. Gagye played a big role as a means to carry out national ceremonies In diplomatic relationship with China. Second, Korea Ancient Gagye had been worn in every class irrespective of social status. Because it could be worn reflecting personal preferences even in old communities. Additionally Gagye had flexibility to reflect the historical aspects and improved various Gagye types reflecting Buddhism and practical science. So Gagye becomes significant sharing the common value with Korea Clothing culture. Third, Korea Ancient Gagye developed aesthetic spirit concerning beauty of Clothing. In the Age of the Three States, Clothing and Gagye types kept balanced and made good harmony. Gagye had gotten little exaggerated and expanded and become changed into loaded hair type.