• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.179-192
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• 2024

In this study, six types of natural products, Prunus tomentosa (P. tomentosa), Akebia quinata (A. quinata), Prunus armeniaca (P. armeniaca), Smallanthus sonchifolius (S. sonchifolius), Citrus japonica (C. japonica), and Citrus australasica (C. australasica), were used to verify the effect of improving sleep and skin barriers by stress relief. As a result of the experiment, the production of cortisol, a stress hormone, was significantly inhibited by the P. tomentosa, C. australasica, A. quinata, and C. japonica among the six natural products. In addition, the expression of GAD67, a GABA-producing enzyme involved in sleep regulation, showed a significant increase in P. tomentosa purified water extract and C. australasica 50% ethanol extract, and the extract by each P. tomentosa solvent was found to have the highest total polyphenol content. Based on the results, the P. tomentosa extract with the highest activity was finally selected, and subsequent experiments were conducted. Among each P. tomentosa solvent extract, the DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in the 30% ethanol extract, and purified water extract increased GABA production and skin barrier factors filaggrin and claudin-1 expression the highest. HPLC analysis confirmed quercitrin as the main component of P. tomentosa extract, and quercitrin content by extraction solvent was high in the order of 30% ethanol > purified water > 70% ethanol > 50% ethanol. Quercitrin inhibited the production of cortisol in a concentration-dependent manner, significantly increasing GAD67 expression and GABA production, which had been reduced by cortisol. From the results of this study, it has been demonstrated that P. tomentosa can be used as a cosmetic material to help improve sleep and strengthen skin barriers by relieving stress.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.63-71
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• 2015

Moisturizers are the most prescribed products in dermatology. Treatment with moisturizers aims to maintain skin integrity and overall well-being by providing a healthy appearance. Moisturizers perform very important functions in baby care; however, there are few studies on the effects of moisturizers on the skin of infants. To investigate the effects of moisturizers on the skin of healthy full-term infants and toddlers, thirty-one healthy, full-term, 6- to 36-month-old infants and toddlers without any dermatologic conditions received moisturizer applied to the whole body except the eyes and diaper area after bathing twice daily for 4 weeks. Clinical assessments were conducted before treatment, immediately after the treatment period, and 1 and 4 weeks after treatment. At all visits, skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH, and skin roughness were measured, the skin surface was photographed, and any adverse events were recorded. After using moisturizer, skin hydration significantly increased and TEWL and roughness significantly decreased. The skin pH was modified to mildly acidic and the skin surface was visually smoother than before treatment. There were no statistical significant differences of effects of moisturizers according to age and sex, and adverse events were not observed. The results of moisturizer application on the skin were increased skin hydration, recovery of barrier function, balancing skin pH within a mildly acidic range, and increasing the smoothness of the skin surface for 4 weeks.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

• Journal of Veterinary Clinics
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.522-532
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• 2010

The aims of the present study were to characterize the effect of glucocorticosteroids (GCs) on the normal canine skin and to evaluate the effect of a lipid mixture (LM), containing cholesterol, pseudoceramide, and free fatty acid, on the steroid-induced damaged skin of dogs. Five beagles were involved and the skin of the back of each dog was topically applied with four kinds of GCs twice daily for 28 days. LM was applied after that period of GCs application. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, and skin pH were assessed during experimental periods and histopathological evaluation was performed. TEWL was significantly increased, with a maximum increase obtained on day 28 (p < 0.01). Skin pH was significantly decreased, with a maximum decrease obtained on day 28 (p < 0.01). Skin surface hydration was significantly increased on day 3, but values of skin hydration were progressively decreased and finally reached those of baseline. In histology, as results of steroid application, losses of keratin layers in the stratum corneum and edematous changes in the upper parts of dermis, and consequently, thickness of the epidermis and the stratum corneum were decreased. In addition, the numbers of hair follicles were markedly decreased in steroid control as compared to intact control. However, these skin atrophic changes were markedly inhibited by treatment of LM as compared with steroid control in the present study. Moreover, all biophysical parameters were reached to the baseline after LM treatment. These results showed that the topically applied GCs induced skin barrier impairment and a LM should be effective on repair of disturbed skin barrier function in dogs. Therefore, it is concluded that a LM tested in the present study is expected to treat the steroid-induced skin damages.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.345-352
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• 2004

There are two paradigms to explain the atopic dermatitis. The first is outside-inside paradigm and the second is inside-outside paradigm. According to the outside-inside paradigm the best way to treat the atopic dermatitis is recovery of skin barrier function. The barrier function is maintained by the specific structure of stratum corneum, which is constructed from corneocytes and intercellular lipids. In terms of lipid structures of SC in atopic dermatitis and lamellar ichthyosis, they contain more fluid hexagonal gel structures in SC and show deficiencies in free fatty acids, especially long chains and certain ceramides. With this reason, moisturizer which has the lamellar structure and restoring function of intrinsic intercellualr long periodicity phase can maintain and restore the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids in SC. The moisturizers containing ceramide or pseudoceramide also seem to be reasonable therapy for atopic dermatitis and several skin diseases, which interrelated with impaired skin harrier. By the way, according to the inside-outside paradigm, immune response including helper T cells, IgE, eosinophils is related. It is effective treatment of atopic dermititis to restore imbalance between Th1 and Th2 cells. Even though several kinds of immune-suppressor were introduced, these can affect the intrinsic immune function. SPC and S1P, metabolites of ceramide, would be interesting because they have the function of wound healing and immune modulating properties.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.15 no.2 s.69
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• pp.267-272
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• 2005

The objective of this study is to suggest the potentialities of nanoliposome composed of ceramide as an anti-irritant against various irritants used in cosmetics. Ceramides are major structural components of the epidermal permeability barrier, which is known to play an essential part in human physiology by not only preventing the loss of water from the body but also protecting the body from external physical, chemical, and microbial insults. According to the results, better effects on reinforcement of skin barrier function and anti-irritation were obtained with nanoliposome composed of ceramide than with dispersed ceramide. And, we performed in vitro skin penetration test using horizontal Franz diffusion cells with skin membrane prepared from hairless mouse to evaluate the influence of nanoliposome composed of ceramide on the skin penetration of lactic acid in formulations. From the results, we found that the anti-irritation effects of nanoliposome containing ceramide were due to reduced penetration rate of irritants. Conclusively, we could develop a new anti-irritation system and apply this nanoliposome composed of ceramide to the final cosmetic products successfully.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 2023

Lips have a unique desquamation process and moisturizing properties that are structurally different from ordinary skin. In particular, the turnover cycle of the stratum corneum is fast and the outermost stratum corneum is thin, so the amount of keratin is relatively high, and there are no skin appendages, so it is very vulnerable to maintaining moisture. In this study, we set three targets for lip care : stratum corneum, moisture, and barrier, and aimed to identify the potential of three target-specific ingredients for lips improvement. We confirmed the exfoliating, moisturizing, and barrier improvement efficacy of three target-specific ingredients which also have mild exfoliating effect. Specifically, we verified that Bacillus clausii extract improved skin exfoliation, gluconolactone improved skin moisture retention, and serine reinforced skin barrier function. To test the in vivo efficacy of the complex composed of three target-specific ingredients on the human lips, the lip balm manufactured with non-irritating range of concentration was applied, and we confirmed that it was effective in improving lip exfoliation·moisturizing·elasticity·wrinkles. Consequently, it was confirmed that the beauty and health indicators of the lips could be improved through the exfoliation-moisturization-barrier care of the lips and these ingredients were applied to LG H&H LIPCERIN products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.427-438
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• 2004

Cosmeceuticals products we not the products simply for moisturizing and protecting skin but the ones for encouraging to make improvements on wrinkles and helping to whiten, tan, and protect skin against ultraviolet light. In a broader sense, they refer to products with aiming to maintain healthy condition of skin such that skin troubles could be improved or aging of skin could be delayed. However, cosmeceuticals should not have any side effects because they are applied to the whole body for a long period of time differing from medical products which are used on specific areas for a short time. The number of such cosmeceuticals has increased from 500 in 2001 to 2300 in 2003. In order to develop and broaden the scope of cosmeceuticals, the concept of cosmetics needs to be changed from caring skin to delaying aging of the skin and reviving cells. For this purpose, high-valued materials should be developed through basic researches related to the biological function of skin, in vivo experiment and reaction of skin in response to various stimuli using biotechnologies and bioengineering methods. At the same time, it should be proceeded to develop new nano materials for overcoming skin barriers and transfer matericals for helping to absorb effective substances and maintaining stability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.113-119
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• 2015

The measurement of hydration level in the surface layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC), gives important information on the biophysical properties and function of the skin barrier such as softness, flexibility, and healthiness of the skin. But it is difficult to measure a consistent hydration level from a sample to another sample due to individual variations and environmental changes. The aim of this study was to evaluate objective hydration after using various products in the SC. The SC Hydration was measured by capacitance (Corneometer$^{(R)}$, C+K, Germany) on the ventral site of forearm from 40 healthy volunteers. The skin surface was chronologically measured immediately after application of the test products and 3 and 6 hours later. We analyzed the averages of five measurements of each site and used the hydration increase rate for correction on untreated site variation. We found that most polyols including glycerol and butylenes glycol influenced directly the hydration increase rate in the SC previously. In this study, glycerol was used to prepare the standard products from 0 to 20 percents and applied to the same volunteers. The individual standard curve showed linear relation to glycerol concentrations. Based on the the standard curve, hydration of SC was converted into hydration increase rate to glycerol concentrations. The converted glycerol concentrations of products were repetitive and reproducible. In addition, the individual standard curve was used to relate the skin type of each individual. These results suggest that the hydration of the SC standardized regardless of external variation and individual skin condition can explain detailed skin state variation. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with other methods for noninvasive measurement.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.78-95
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• 2023

목적 : 마이크로니들 패치는 피부장벽의 주요 구성성분인 각질층을 관통할 수 있어 일반적인 경피를 통한 약물 전달 수단보다 더 효율적으로 약물을 전달할 수 있다는 장점이 있어 다양한 분야에서 응용되고 있다. 본 임상연구는 아토피피부염 환자의 피부 건조 증상에 대하여 용해성 히알루론산 마이크로니들 패치와 외용제를 병행하여 용해성 마이크로니들 패치의 유효성과 안전성을 평가하였다. 방법 : 본 연구는 단일 기관, 연구자 주도, 평가자 눈가림, 인체 분할 연구로 설계된 무작위 배정 임상시험으로, 피부건조 증상이 있는 아토피피부염 환자 20명을 대상으로 임상연구를 수행하였다. 한 명의 피험자에서 2곳의 시험 병변을 선택한 후, 무작위 배정으로 각각 시험 병변과 대조 병변을 결정하여 2주 동안 매일 양측 병변에 모두 아로마 크림을 도포한 다음, 시험 병변에만 용해성 히알루론산 마이크로니들 패치를 추가로 부착하였다. 결과 : 1차 유효성 평가지표인 local scoring atopic dermatitis(L-SCORAD) index는 치료 후에 시험 병변이 대조 병변보다 유의성 있게 호전되었다. 2차 유효성 평가지표 중 피부 건조감 VAS와 피부 수분 함유량도 시험 병변이 대조 병변보다 유의성 있는 개선을 보였다. Investigator's Global Assessment scale, 소양감 VAS, 경피수분손실량에 있어서는 시험 병변과 대조 병변 모두 치료 후에 유의성 있게 호전되었으나, 두 병변 간의 차이에는 유의성이 없었다. 이상 반응은 나타나지 않았으므로 안전성도 확인되었다. 결론 : 용해성 히알루론산 마이크로니들 패치와 외용제 병행치료는 외용제만 사용하였을 때보다 L-SCORAD index 및 피부 건조감 VAS, 피부 수분 함유량에 있어서 아토피피부염의 증상을 유의성 있게 개선시켰다.