• Title/Summary/Keyword: 포(袍)

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A Study on the spiritual Shaman(Gangsin-mu)'s Po -in Seoul-gut Shaman's Costume- (降神巫服의 袍에 관한 연구 - 서울굿 무복을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Eun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.41 no.9
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    • pp.43-54
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of study is to survey the system of the Korean Gangsin-mu shaman costume and its formative character and to fine out the traditional follow patterns of government officials' attires and Po's meaning of it. The overall shape of variety 'Po's in modern times are similar to the traditional ones, but they differ greatly in size, detail color, and ornamental design. The sleeves have slits in the armholes, which can allow the hands to be drawn out easily. In addition, the knot buttons are used in the modern costumes. They are based on different formation skills from those of the traditional The original color of the shaman's costume is not their taste in color but symbolic, modern costumes color show the shaman's taste in color. This change mean a more accentuated visual effect than incantatory meaning. Another reason for color change is also the costume's material. A kind of constituent element uses synthetic fiber in modern times.

A Study on the Costume of Kumseong-li Fresco, North Korea (함경북도 화대군 금성리 발해 벽화 고분의 복식)

  • Kim, Min-Jee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.9
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    • pp.16-31
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    • 2007
  • This study is about the costume depicted upon the fraction of fresco which was excavated from Kumseong-li, Hwadae-Gun, Hamkyungbuk-Do, North Korea in 2004. According to the characteristics of its relics, this tomb was reported to belong to Parhae Dynasty(698-926). The fraction of fresco only shows below part of the knees of a man. A light red colored robe reaches down to his ankles on the back, whereas front part of it looks tucked up, which is likely to have slits on both side seams. Although tightly wrapped shins were reported as a pair of gaiters, there is no decisive evidence on the fresco. I suggest another possibility that this man wore slim pants. Also in order to figure out if these shins are considered as gaiters, I proceed comparative research on the historical sources about gaiters of countries and eras adjacent to Parhae. Consequently the idea that people of Parhae might have used gaiters turned out to be acceptable. The black boots show rather basic style: the toe tips are not pointed up, boot leg doesn't look either wide or long. These boots can not be identified with Ammohwa(暗摸靴) which the envoy Yang(楊) gave the protocol Miyakoyoshika(都良香) at his official visit to Japan, because Ammohwa has not yet been properly defined.

A Study on the Historical Research of Indigo Clothing Gifts of Early Joseon -Focusing on the Po and Ieom of King Seongjong's Reign- (조선 전기 아청사여복식(鴉靑賜與服飾)의 고증적 분석 -성종 재위기의 포 류와 이엄을 중심으로-)

  • Choi, Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.44 no.1
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    • pp.107-125
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    • 2020
  • Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

A Study on Excavated Costume of the Bae's Clan of Seong-san - Focused on Analysis on Features of Sewing Observed in Po(Coat in Korea in the Past) - (성산 배씨 문중 출토복식에 관한 연구 - 포(袍)에 나타난 봉제구성법의 특징 분석을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Sang-Eun;Lee, Dong-A
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.133-153
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    • 2009
  • Clothing was excavated when the Bae's clan of Seong-san, Yeong-dong, Chung-buk in Sep. 2, 2004. The tombs that the clothing could be restored were the tombs of Bae Cheon-jo(10th generation) and the tomb of Mrs. Nam of Go-seong, the wife of Bae Sang-gyeong(1lth generation). For identifying the features and methods of sewing used for the clothing of man and woman around Po(coat in Korea in the past) in the 16th to 17th century, this study investigated 12 items from Bae Cheon-jo's tomb(Sibok, Dopo(robe), Jungchimak(outer coat with large sleeves) and Gwa-du and 5 items(Jangok(lady's cloak) and Jungchimak) from Mrs. Nam's tomb of Go-seong. For sewing, broad-stitching, hemming and even-back-stitching were used the most in that order. Furthermore, various kinds of sophisticated stitching including old flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching and buttonhole stitch, clothing made roughly as a shroud and fabric attached on the clothing were also observed. We may not have many opportunities to understand the change of clothing in Korea from mid 16th century to mid 17th century through the clothing of father-in-law and daughter-in-law in a family. As a result, we will be able to understand the features of sewing in a family and from the 16th century to the 17th century.

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A Study of Shilla(新羅)′s Naeoe(內衣), Danoe(短衣)

  • 권준희;조우현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.2
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    • pp.103-113
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    • 2002
  • Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

A Study on the Development of the Nightgown Considering the Construction Features of the Cheolik and the Shimui (심의와 철릭을 활용한 나이트가운 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Hyun-Jeong;Cho, Oh-Soon;Kim, Yeo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.6 s.115
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2007
  • The study aimed to develop the nightgown considering the construction and design features of the Shimui and the Cheolik. The analysis on the construction features of the Korean traditional costume and the physiological and motional attributes while sleeping resulted into the construction factors of the nightgown developed in the study. Consequently, the nightgown having these traditional Korean costume features were made for the evaluation. 4 different types of nightgowns were designed to be constructed. 20 professional clothing staff evaluated these 4 nightgowns developed and the existing nightgown used in the hotel industry. The results from the wearing test evaluation were: (1) to consider the stable closure of the gowns while wearing, the scores of the gowns developed were higher than the existing one. (2) the evaluations of the wearing comfort of the standing posture for the gowns developed and the existed were more or less similar but considering the lying down posture, the scores of the developed ones were significantly higher. (3) the gowns developed to have the wide-ham lines were considered more appropriate to the leg movement compared to the existing gown. The results from the fit and appearance test evaluation were: (1) throughout the all hight levels, the means of the gowns developed were higher than the existing gown's means in the most of the evaluation questions. (2) in the evaluation of the Korean traditional features, the gowns developed were more appropriate than the existing one. Consequently, the gowns developed were considered better to compare to the existing one in the context of postures, movements, comfort, appearance, fit, and design features.

A study on ceremonial costume and Confucianism is Chosun Dynasty - Focusing on Men's Po - (조선시대(朝鮮時代) 유교사상(儒敎思想)과 의예복연구(儀禮服硏究) - 남자(男子) 포(袍)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Lee, Sun-Jae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.16
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    • pp.221-229
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    • 1991
  • This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

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