• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.30 no.3B
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• pp.325-335
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to survey the effects of laying drainage layer in sandy beach on beach stabilization. At first, the numerical model developed by Hur and Lee (2007), which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertia, laminar and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction and can determine the eddy viscosity with LES turbulent model in 3-D wave field (LES-WASS-3D), is validated by comparing with existing experimental data. And then, numerical simulation is carried out to examine the characteristics of wave-sandy beach interaction for a beach with/without drainage layer. From the numerical results, it is shown that mean ground-water level around a foreshore decreases and offshore-ward flow over a seabed reduces in case of a beach with drainage layer. Moreover, the effects of cross profile of drainage layer and incident wave condition on mean ground-water level around a foreshore are also discussed as well the distribution of wave setup around the foreshore.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.180-201
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• 2020

It has been widely known that the effect of diffracted waves at the tip of composite breakwater with finite length causes the change of standing wave height along the length of breakwater, the spatial change of wave pressure on caisson, and the occurrence of meandering damage on the different sliding distance in sequence. It is hard to deal with the spatial change of wave force on trunk of breakwater through the two-dimensional experiment and/or numerical analysis. In this study, two and three-dimensional numerical techniques with olaFlow model are used to approach the spatial change of wave force including the impulsive breaking wave pressure applied to trunk of breakwater, the effect of rear region, and the occurrence of diffracted waves at the tip of caisson located on the high crested rubble mound. In addition, it is thoroughly studied the mean wave height, mean horizontal velocity, and mean turbulent kinetic energy through the numerical analysis. In conclusion, it is confirmed that the larger wave pressure occurs at the front wall of caisson around the still water level than the original design conditions when it generates the shock-crushing wave pressure checked by not two-dimensional analysis, but three-dimensional analysis through the change of wave pressure applied to the caisson along the length of breakwater.

• Journal of Aquaculture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.24-30
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• 2003

Studies of the seed production of Urechis unicinctus were conducted under the laboratory conditions to obtain some information for the U.unicinitus culture. The experiment included developmental studies of the egg development, larval culture, sediment preference and growth of young U.unicinctus. The experiment were conducted from March to August, 2000. The adults of U.unicinctus collected in Namhae-do, Korea. The developments of the fertilized eggs were observed under a light-microscope at intervals of one hour after containing with density of one individual per 1 $m\ell$. The larvae were fed with Phaeodactylum tricornutum cultured at the laboratory. The concentration of the phytoplankton for the feed was 30,000 cells per individual larva. With progress of development, the food concentration was gradually increased, up to 10,000 cells per individual for the young U.unicinctus. Trochophore larvae appeared on the 68 hours after hatching. On the 32 days after hatching, over 50% of fertilized eggs developed into young U.unicinctus. In order to investigate the effect of sediment on the growth and burrowing of U.unicinctus, the young worms were reared in tanks with different grain sizes. The highest value of sediment preference and survival rate of U.unicinctus was shown in the mixture sediment group with below 0.10 mm, 1.01∼12.00 mm, over 3.01 mm and shell. The lowest value in both sediment preference and survival rate of U.unicinctus was observed in 1.0l∼2.00 mm grain size.

• Journal of the Korean GEO-environmental Society
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.71-79
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• 2002

A numerical simulation has been performed on the generation of the coastal cliff which lies as the distinct boundary between the beach and the hinterland. As a result of storm surge, it is known that the steeper the initial beach slope, the larger the generation of the coastal cliff. The rise of water level added the mean water level accelerates the generation of the coastal cliff. In addition, the longshore distribution of the incident wave height is one factor that bring about the generation of the non-uniform coastal cliff in longshore direction. Therefore this study will be able to use for expecting the formation and erosion of coastal cliff in sand beach.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.599-606
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• 1988

Structures of interfacial waves in nearly-horizontal countercurrent stratified air-water flow have been measured by means of a needle contact method. Based upon a statistical analysis for the liquid film distribution, statistical properties of the waves such as mean film thickness, mean wave amplitude and rms value of the wave fluctuation have been calculated. The results show that the film distribution can be described by a Gaussian probability density function for the three-dimensional wave regime. It is also indicated that the mean film thick ness and the rms value of the wave fluctuation increase as gas and liquid flow rates are increased in countercurrent two-phase flow. The dimensionless intensity of the wave fluctuation may be regarded as a function of the Froude number and the dimensionless mean film thickness.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.150-156
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• 1994

Shoreline change due to the littoral drift in Suyeong bay, especially the Gwanganri and Haeundae beaches, was investigated. Average monthly frequency. speed. and direction of winds blowing from between east and south for the last 15 years were analysed, and offshore significant waves were hindcasted using the JONSWAP model. Wave refractions, shoaling, and breaking weir also investigated for the calculation of littoral drift. At the Gwanganri beach major longshore transport of sands occurs from the southwest to the northeast and the shoreline seems to advance in the northeast while it recedes in the southwest. At the Haeundae beach the sands mainly move from the east to the west and the shoreline retreats in the east and advances in the west.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.46-56
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• 1995

Three Pressure type wave gauges were installed for about 10 days for the analysis of long wave agitations in Mukho Harbor. Helmholtz and second resonant periods of seiche in Mukho Harbor are shown to be approximately 10.0-14.3 and 3.3 minutes from the spectral analysis of measured wave data. Amplification ratio at Helmholtz period reaches about 6.8 and the wave amplitudes in the harbor were in the range of 5-10 cm during the measurement period. Helmholtz and second resonant periods of seiche in Mukho Harbor agree very well with those computed using Jeong dt al. (1993b)'s model. The model gives rise to the first and third resonant peaks at 7.5 and 1.9 minutes, respectively.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.67-75
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• 1986

This paper introduces the nonlinear Stream Function Wave Theory for design waves efficiently to compute the wave energy and energy transport quantities and to analyze the effects of nonlinearities on them. The Stream Function Wave Theory was developed by Dean for case of the observed waves with assymmetric wave profiles and of the design waves with symmetric theoretical wave profiles. Dalrymple later improved the computational procedure by adding two Lagrangian constraints so that more efficient convergence of the iterative numerical method to a specified wave height and to a zero mean free surface displacement resulted. And the Stream Function coefficients are computed numerically by the improved Marquardt algorithm developed for this study. As the result of this study the effects of nonlinearities on the wave quantities of the average potential energy density, the average kinetic energy density result in overestimation by linear wave theory compared to the Stream Function Wave Theory and increase monotonically with decreasing $L^*/L_O$ and with increasing $H/H_B$. The effects of nonlinearities on the group velocity and the wavelength quantities result in underestimation by linear wave theory and increase monotonically with increasing $H/H_B$. Finally the effect of nonlinearity on the average total energy flux results in overestimation for shallow water waves and underestimation for deep water waves by linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.267-275
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• 2013

This study projected the future ocean wave climate changes based on global climate change scenario using the coupled climate model HadGEM2-AO according to the emission scenarios and using regional wave model. Annual mean significant wave height (SWH) is linked closely to annual mean wind speed during the forthcoming 21st Century. Because annual mean speed decreased in the western North Pacific, annual mean SWH is projected to decrease in the future. The annual mean SWH decreases for the last 30 years of the 21st century relative to the period 1971-2000 are 2~7% for RCP4.5 and 4~11% for RCP8.5, respectively. Also, extreme SWH and wind speed are projected to decrease in the future. In terms of seasonal mean, winter extreme SWH shows similar trend with annual extreme SWH; however, that of summer shows large increasing tendency compared with current climate in the western North Pacific. Therefore, typhoon intensity in the future might be more severe in the future climate.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.363-371
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to compare the numerical results obtained by 2-D and 3-D models which are used to examine the wave field around a permeable submerged breakwater. At first, the numerical model, which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar and turbulent resistance terms and determine the eddy viscosity with LES turbulent model, is used and validated by comparing with existing experimental data. And then, the numerical test on the wave field around a permeable submerged breakwater is performed. It is revealed from the numerical results that, at the onshore side of the submerged breakwater, the wave height by 2-D analysis is higher than that by 3-D analysis. Also, the time-averaged mean flow around a submerged breakwater is discussed in detail.