• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.720-737
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• 2023

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.125-139
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• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1274-1290
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• 2010

This study analyzed the design elements and fashion images of women's knitwear in collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York between 2003 and 2008, and examined knitwear trends in an effort to verify whether knitwear trends are repeated in certain cycles, whether they show complicated patterns in cycles and yet occur in quasi cycles, or whether they occur non-periodically in complicated forms of chaotic cycles. Trend cycle analysis results are deemed to identify the time series attribute of knit fashions. It also sought to categorize the attribute of various factors influencing knitwear trends with a view to determining relevancy between design elements, and to present the direction of predicting knitwear fashion trends and the progression of short-term knitwear trends. This study reached the following conclusion. According to design elements or fashion images, knitwear fashion trends occur in cycles, quasi cycles, non-periodical cycles. These cyclic characteristics can be used as scientific data for planning knitwear products. The study confirmed close relevancy between fashion images and fashion elements. It identified close relevancy between designs with similar fashion elements and images through coordinates by year and season, and it is possible to make short-term prediction of trend direction through the flow of coordinates. Time series data were insufficient, thereby making it difficult to perfectly verify chaos indices and giving limitations to this study. A study with more time series data will produce a more effective method of predicting and using knitwear fashion trends.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.409-426
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• 2018

This study explores the effect of moral identity on attitude toward and purchase intention of upcycled fashion products by comparing purchasers and non-purchasers. Data from 127 purchasers and 307 non-purchasers collected through a survey was analyzed using descriptive statistics, confirmatory factor analysis, model invariance check, and multiple-group comparison tests using Amos 23.0. Results indicate consumers with purchase experiences of upcycled fashion products showed a higher level of moral identity (internalization and symbolization), positive attitude toward upcycled fashion products, and purchase intention than did consumers with no purchase experience. In model tests, internalization affected attitude toward purchasing upcycled fashion products, whereas symbolization affected purchase intention, regardless of purchase experience. The effect of symbolization on purchase intention was consistent with prior studies focusing on charity behaviors that are highly visible to others. These findings demonstrate that fashion products are visible and symbolic, so it should be carefully considered in ethical consumption studies. From these results, researchers may obtain insights on the process of how consumers apply moral identity to their purchase intention regarding upcycled fashion products. Likewise, marketers may enhance satisfaction of consumers with a high level of symbolization by putting special tags and logos that clearly highlight the products' upcycled nature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.192-208
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• 2016

Due to the paradigm shift in fashion industry, its contribution to social activities and social enterprises' practice of ethical fashion has been on the rise lately. The surveillance and regulations of international community have increased in light of the betterment of working conditions and protection of the rights, and corporate social responsibility has been emphasized through consumers' interest in ethical consumption. In this regard, the fashion social enterprises' responsible and ethical management can both boost the trust in business and value-added. The study aims to propose feasible methods by exploring ways to induce support from central and local governments, which will lead to the activation of future fashion social enterprises and paradigms shift of consumers's perception and value. The sustainability of social enterprises requires management line or policies that consider social, environmental, economic, and political aspects of virtuous cycle, differentiated internally or externally. Fashion social enterprises also need ethic management and social responsibility management that are distinctive from general fashion enterprises. Thus, they will not be sustainable or differentiated unless entrepreneurial faith and role is not clear. Education and continuous promotion including upcycling are critical to build consumer base as they can make consumers spend ethically and recognize social enterprises. In addition, social education and public relations need to take place in order to internalize consumer pattern. The goal of sustainable corporate social activity is to change the awareness and become social investment that returns some profits to the society as members in line with reviewing corporate image. This can lead to establishing the foundation of securing a big comsumer market and winning the trust of the consumer's through corporate social responsibility and investment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.13-23
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• 2012

"Sustainability" and buzzword as in many areas of products produced and studies in progress, in situations of domestic "green fashion" of the Progress and identify problems and advanced in value sustained growth that can be done fashion design, the future of the gauge view there is need. For the purpose of environmental protection and resource conservation of the eco-fashion trend, "recycling" of the low-growth, emphasizing the ethical responsibility to pursue by the aesthetics may be limited in terms of avoided. Environment, most notably an "issue" fashion emerged as a growing, destroying a temporary fashion trend as a "recycling" of the limitations and pro-technology and design of the added value of recombinant and advanced recycling design trends, attracting attention "upcycle" Case of the aesthetic value and spiritual value of the designer by giving understanding and a new aesthetic values to the area you want to raise the possibility of extension.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.12 no.12
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• pp.103-110
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• 2012

Various industrial sectors have formally turned to Green Development, practicing eco-design with the goal of saving the environment. Such trend can also be applied to jewelry design and production. Jewelry, which emerged with the birth of humankind, has been a contributing factor to environmental pollution and depletion of resources due to mass production and reckless consuming patterns of the 20th century. With the arrival of the World economic crises, however, the consumption of jewelry has dropped and now the industry desperately needs a boost for revival. In this paper, we propose a way to recycle waste materials and turn them into a new kind of jewelry. We introduce various junk materials that can be reused, and how to reuse them. The new type of jewelry we aim for is environment-friendly, low-cost, and unique as opposed to identical mass production of the past. The eco-design product will likely add new value to jewelry industry. The product targets sophisticated modern consumers with conscientious, environmentally aware consuming patterns. To fulfill the needs of these consumers, we propose methods of upcycling from junk to jewelry, by combining precious stones with waste materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.899-918
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• 2018

Upcycling is the process of repurposing abandoned resources or useless products into products of better quality or higher environmental value. Upcycling products are evaluated to be sustainable because they demonstrate environmental values. However, domestic upcycling companies are operating on a small scale with a slow growth rate. This study aims to examine the value and risk factors of upcycling products from previous literature and clarify the effect of these ambivalent characteristics on purchase intention. This provides direction regarding factors upcycling companies should focus on. The data were collected via an online experiment with women in their 20s and 30s residing in South Korea, nationwide. The data were statistically analyzed using SPSS 21.0 and AMOS 18.0. Analysis of this data suggests that environmental, design, and self-expression value positively affect purchase intention. This extends previous upcycling literature by identifying design and self-expression value as important antecedents of purchase intention. However, in contrast to previous literature, no significant effect of performance or diversity risk was found. These results indicate that ethical attitude has a moderating effect on the relationship between environmental value and purchase intention. This study confirms that consumers intend to purchase upcycling products when they possess not only environmental value but also design and self-expression value.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.133-148
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• 2021

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, many people started working from home while avoiding unnecessary going-outs. As the 'stay-at-home life' becomes standard daily life, the pajamas market is absorbing young consumers, especially targeting Generation MZ, by using one-mile fashion that breaks down the boundary with everyday clothes. Also, owing to the demand for environmentally-friendly textiles, based on the strengthened environmental regulations, the development of textiles considering the environment is expanding. Thus, the purpose of this study is to develop fashion pajamas using environmentally-friendly textiles targeting Generation MZ. After theoretically considering the current status of recycled PETs and the pajama market by referring to preceding research, relevant books, and Internet data, this study performed the process setting up the design concepts, developing textiles, developing textile designs, and developing pajamas designs. As a result, this study wove two kinds of mixed textiles using recycled PETs and silk with the concept of 'Going out pajamas', and designed a total four patterns to be applied to those textiles, then digitally printed them. Using the developed textiles, this study produced a total four kinds of pajamas that were practical, trendy, and also good to be used as clothes for going-out. The consumers who are exhausted from the limited environment of the COVID-19 pandemic, are requesting comfortable and trendy in & out door fashion. For this reason, the results of this study are significant in the aspect of suggesting the new-normal fashion trend for pajamas designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.40-57
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• 2018

This study investigated the design practice model based on the creative fashion designer's methodology in fashion education. 'The Design Cycle' was the criterion used to analyze the design method of Demna Gvasalia who is one of the outstanding contemporary designers. After that, this study's practice model was then developed and experimented to verify its effectiveness in design practice as based on Gvasalia's method where ready-to-wear products were firstly dissembled then re-constructed with new designs created based on re-constructed results. To test its effectiveness, a student oriented design workshop was held to extract design results through the practice model; in addition, the students also conducted a survey to evaluate the effectiveness of the method. According to the self-evaluation result, the participants generally accept the design efficiency through the distinctive process. An evaluation by three fashion experts was also conducted. Experts assessed that the model is recommendable for seniors having knowledges on 'Construction', it is appropriate to deal with the trickled-down copying trend that could promote student interest and generate separate results according to different visions. Therefore, it could be accepted that the applicability of this study's practice model was confirmed.