• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.763-778
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• 2021

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai's knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study's data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai's distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.173-188
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the collaboration and artification of the Issey Miyake fashion brand and to suggest the best course of artification that can secure the brand's value. The research methods are as follows: i) identifying the companies' strategy and flow through collaboration concepts and examples from Issey Miyake; ii) selecting Issey Miyake fashion brands and carrying out a literature review through websites, articles, and books; and iii) examining prior studies on the relationship between fashion and art. Results are as follows. The exhibition is divided into spaces for brand intangible assets, artistic collaboration with partners, art co-creation, and the aesthetics and tradition of the brand. Using exhibitions to share the artistic work of collaboration partners is expected to positively affect the brand's likability. The exhibit shares art collaborations in display cases for clothes and photographs. Artists and brands appear as an extension of the creative space and convergence design area. The artist's improvisation forms the creative space that communicates with the audience, and the convergence design area is expanded through the unifying organic connection between the various media in the fashion brand. The photographers and brands section displays the nature images of Pleats Please, as well as human and prism garment images. In these images, the viewer can perceive a story in the interplay between the human body and nature.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.209-216
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• 1998

The results of the study of diving the 21st century's Korea fashion market into consumer market, fashion market, and a new marketing strategy are as follows. The 21st consumer market is First, a fashion democracy phenomenon. As many people try to leave unconditional fashion following, consumer show a phenomenon to choose and create their own fashion by subjective judgements. Second, a phenomenon of total fashion pursuit. Consumer in the future are likely to put their goals not in differentiating small item products, but considering various fashion elements based on their individuality and sense of value. Third, world quality-oriented. With the improvement of life level, it accomplishes to emphasize consumers' fashion mind on the world wide popular use of materials, quality, design and brand image. Fourth, with the entrance of neo-rationalism, consumers show increasing trends to emphasize wisdom, solidity in goods strategy pursuing high quality fashion and to demand resonable prices. Fifth, concept-oriented. Consumers are changing into pursuing concept appropriate to individual life scene. Prospecting the composition of the 21st century's fashion market, First, sportive casual zone will draw attention more than any other zone. This is because interest in sports will grow according to the increase of leisure time and the expasion of time and space in the 21st century, and also ecology will become the important issue of sports sense because of human beings's natural habit toward nature. Second, the down aging phenomenon will accelerate its speed as a big trend. Third, a retro phenomenon, a concept contrary to digital and high-tech, will become another big trend for its remake, antique, and classic concept in fashion market with ecology trend. New marketing strategy to cope with changing fashion market is as follows. First, with the trend of borderless concept, borders between apparels are becoming vague, for example, they offer custom-made products to consumers. Second, as more enterprises take the way of gorilla and guerrilla where guerrillas who aim at niche market show up will develop. Basically, they think highly of individual creative study, and pursue the scene adherence with high sensitiveness. However this polarization becomes mutually-supplementing relationship showing gorilla's guerilla movement, and guerilla's gorilla high-tech. Third with the development of value retailing, enterprises pursuing mass merchandising of groups called category killers are expanded and amplified to new product fields, and expand business' share. Fourth, using outsourcing, the trend to use exterior function leaving each enterprise's strength by inspecting its own work is gradually strong. Fifth, with the expansion of none store sale, the entrance of the internet and the CD-ROM sales added to communication sales such as catalogues are specified. An eminent American think tank expect that 5-5% of the total sale of clothes and home goods in 2010 will be done by none store sale. Accordingly, to overcome the problems, First international, global level marketing, Second, the improvement of technology, Third, knowledge-creating marketing are needed.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.319-329
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• 2021

This study aims to investigate Korean fashion-related research trends and knowledge structures on digital transformation through information-based approaches. Accordingly, we first identified the current status of the relevant research in Korean academic literature by year and journal; subsequently, we derived key research topics through network analysis, and then analyzed major research trends and knowledge structures by time. From 2010 to 2020, we collected 159 studies published on Korean academic platforms, cleansed data through Python 3.7, and measured centrality and network implementation through NodeXL 1.0.1. The results are as follows: first, related research has been actively conducted since 2016, mainly concentrated in clothing and art areas. Second, the online platform, AR/VR, appeared as the most frequently mentioned topic, and consumer psychological analysis, marketing strategy suggestion, and case analysis were used as the main research methods. Through clustering, major research contents for each sub-major of clothing were derived. Third, major subject by period was considered, which has, over time, changed from consumer-centered research to strategy suggestion, and design development research of platforms or services. This study contributes to enhancing insight into the fashion field on digital transformation, and can be used as a basic research to design research on related topics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.585-602
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao's Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao's traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.262-280
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the organic forms, expressions, and characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion design and to present various materials for understanding and utilizing this organic design style. The criteria for organic design expressions and characteristics were classified through a literature review, and the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion were then analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the morphological characteristics of nature's forms are used as objects in Alexander McQueen's fashions to represent organic characteristics. Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means creating an abstract representation of the object being represented. Abstracting organic forms occurs by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics or by visualizing these characteristics within the surface of the natural object. Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of the expression of the gradual growth of organisms; this reinterpretation is based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect their external forms. Fourth, the structure of using natural materials, as well as regional and cultural characteristics, is shown in the designs through use of the physical characteristics of expressions and materials that use natural elements. Fifth, symbolism through subjective thinking implies that the element of nature that an object expresses is the element that appears in nature; this includes created organisms along with environmental factors. These characteristics are best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves through creativity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.27-44
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.70-90
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• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20 no.1 s.69
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• pp.5-20
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• 2007

The aim of this research is to find out the flows of mega-trends and design trends by analyzing the factors that influence trend and design trends in the late 20th century. Moreover, it is to forecast and recommend design color trends by evaluating color trends in design trends for the near future. Secondary and primary research were used in parallel. In the late 20th century, mega-trends were analyzed from secondary research based on PEST. Design trends were analyzed from case studies in fashion, space, product and visual design. On this basis, design color trends were analyzed. Also, color trends were forecast for the near future. The results are as follows. Firstly, the main trends in the late 20th century were 'female thinking', 'back to the nature' and 'heaven of peace'. Second, main design trends in the 1970s were modernism, post-modernism and high-tech. In the 1980s, with those of the 1970s, ecology was introduced In the late 1980s. In the 1990s, modernism rose again and ecology had an influence. The trends of 'female thinking' and 'back to the nature' controled the design in the early 2000s. Third, design colors in the late 20th century changed from Red to Purple Blue. Tones changed from 'grayish' to 'dull' Finally, it was forecast that Purple Blue, Yellow Red and Green colors with 'grayish', 'dull' and 'deep' tones were going to be used mainly in the near future. Also, achromatic colors with female and warm nuances would be reflected in design parts. This research will be very useful in that it has built a concrete database reflected on design trends forecasting in the near future by organizing academically a methodology to identify trends reflected on design and identifying relation between mega-trends and design trends based on analyzing factors that influence trend.