• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.42-44
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• 1993

최근, 불규칙파를 조파시킴으로서 발생하는 실험실 스케일의 해빈변형에 대해서 그 정선변화 뿐만아니라 수심변화까지 포함한 수치 simulation모델이 개발되었다. 그러나 현지파랑은 파고, 주기가 불규칙하고, 또한 입사파향도 일정하지 않기때문에, 앞서 논한 예측법에 의해 현지연안에서 발생하는 지형변동을 예측하기 위해서는, 현지파랑중 어떠한 방법으로 대표파고를 선정할 것인가가 큰 문제가 된다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.26-28
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• 1993

해안구조물의 설치나 해안환경 문제를 다룰때 가장 필수적인 것이 그 지역에서의 정확한 파랑자료이다. 파랑은 천해로 전파해 옴에 따라 수심 및 지형변화로 인한 회절 및 굴절을 겪으면서 변하게 되므로 복잡한 지형을 가진 해안에서의 정확한 파랑계산은 용이한 일이 아니다. 이러한 파랑변형에 대한 연구는 Berkhoff(1972)가 완경사방정식을 발표한 후 큰 진전을 보이게되는데 이로 인해 종래 개별적으로 다루던 굴절과 회절을 함께 취급할 수 있게 되고 파향선이 교차할때 생기는 불합리한 에너지의 집중(caustics)을 해결할 수 있게 되었다. (중략)

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.595-605
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• 1994

The field observations. data analyses and numerical experiments are performed to investigate the short and long term beach deformation mechanisms in Haeundae beach. The schematic diagrams of deposition and erosion mechanism due to the attack of typhoons are described from the analysis on the beach widths and profiles. The short term beach deformation depends strongly on the characteristics of incident waves and wave-induced currents. The main incident wave and the calibration parameters of the shoreline change model are determined using the beach width data. Beacause the main incident wave approaches obliquly from the SE direction, the net westward longshore sediment transport occurs. Therefore the unbalance of longshore sediment budget in the east of the beach where the sediment source dose not exist causes a beach erosion. On the other hand, the deposited sand in the west is lost offshore by the storm wave action.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.178-189
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• 2004

For designing a reliable harbor, a methodology for estimating design waves of 97.5% operable harbor condition is suggested using long-term wave data. For a practical application of the methodology, a marine police harbor was selected as a site. Wave data used were collected from February 1993 to December 2003 at Jodo wave gage station in front of Pusan harbor. Joint distributions of significant wave height and significant wave period for specified wave directions were obtained and used to feed as input waves for parabolic mild-slope wave model. Results showed that input waves with significant wave height of 1.75 m, significant wave period off sec and wave direction E yield design waves height of 1.06 m at the site of interests, which is a 97.5% operable harbor condition. Wind waves generated inside harbor showed to be no effect on the design wave condition. Swells propagated from deep water into harbor are shown to be dominant effects on the design waves of operable harbor condition.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.1447-1454
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• 2013

In this study, we developed the equation of ship wave crests in intermediate as well as deep waters by extending Kelvin's (1887) theory using the recursive relation for the dispersion relation. The present equation can be applied for varying water depth as well as constant water depth. Using FLOW-3D we conducted numerical experiments to verify analytical prediction. The ship wave crest patterns became asymmetric on a plane slope when the ship propagates alongshore direction. That is, in shallower side, wave crests tend to be parallel to the coastline due to refraction and, in deeper side, wave crests tend to be orthogonal due to reverse refraction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.367-373
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• 2021

In this study, deep learning model was set up to predict the wave heights inside a harbour. Various machine learning techniques were applied to the model in consideration of the transformation characteristics of offshore waves while propagating into the harbour. Pohang New Port was selected for model application, which had a serious problem of unloading due to swell and has lots of available wave data. Wave height, wave period, and wave direction at offshore sites and wave heights inside the harbour were used for the model input and output, respectively, and then the model was trained using deep learning method. By considering the correlation between the time series wave data of offshore and inside the harbour, the data set was separated into prevailing wave directions as a pre-processing method. As a result, It was confirmed that accuracy and stability of the model prediction are considerably increased.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.55 no.10
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• pp.843-854
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• 2022

For the rip current warning system to reduce rip-current accidents, the implementation method producing the risk index was modified. To produce fast response from the warning system based on real-time observations, the method employed the numerical results (i.e., rip current likelihoods according to the possible scenario) obtained in advance. In this study, instead of using the empirical curve-fitting functions of the previous method, the present modification utilized two-dimensional distributions (i.e., wave height and period, wave height and tidal elevation, wave height and direction, wave height and spreading of frequency-directional spectrum) of rip current likelihoods stacked in a database of the system. The wave and tidal observations in 2021 at the Haeundae coast were applied to the modified system, and its performances at several real events recorded in CCTV images were presented.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2010.04a
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• pp.555-556
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• 2010

연안 수역에서의 해상교통 환경변화에 부응하고 나아가 대형 해양사고 방지와 인명사고 예방을 위해 필요한 해양기상신호표지 시스템 구축을 위하여 해양기상 관측 및 항로표지 정보제공 시스템을 도입, 통항선박에게 안전항해에 필요한 정보를 제공함으로서 해양교통 안전을 확보하고자 한다. 인천 연안의 팔미도를 포함한 15개 항로표지시설에 기상(온습도, 풍향/풍속, 기압) 및 해양(유향/유속, 수온, 파고/파향) 관측시스템을 설치하고 항로표지용 AIS (AtoN AIS) 통신시스템을 이용하여 육상 정보수집 처리서버 및 항행 선박에게 해양기상관측자료를 실시간 전송하는 시스템을 구축하였다.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 1995

the necessity of development of the Nearshore zone greatly emphasis in recent years. In the wave deformation model, we can get the wave height and wave direction using the hyperbolic mild slope equation considered the reflection wave. Radiation Stress the driving force of flow was calculated by the Watanabe and Maruyama who proposed on the partial standing wave. In the surf zone, applying the Izumiya and Horikawa's turbulent model considered the bottom friction and energy dissipation, we compared and examined with the Numerical model and Hydraulic test result of Watanabe and Maruyama. This model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach agreed well with the Numerical results. This model is expected so helpful to solve the prediction of the wave deformation problems in the development of the Nearshore zone in the future.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.123-130
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• 2018

The present study investigated the validity of an equilibrium shoreline empirical formula for real phenomena. Among three types of equilibrium shoreline formulas, Hsu's parabolic type static formula was employed, which is well-known and the most practical for shoreline estimation after coastal or harbor structure construction. The wave data observed at Maengbang beach and the CERC formula on longshore sediment transport were used in the present investigation. A comparison study was only conducted for the case of a shoreline change after the construction of a groyne. Reasonable agreement was seen between the observed wave data and the data obtained under a wave angle spreading function S = 3.5. However, significant changes were observed when S increased. Thus, careful application is required when using Hsu's formula.