• 한국지형공간정보학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.157-162
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• 2003

실시간 동적 GPS 측위를 이용한 해저수심측량은 GPS 수신기가 이동중인 상태에서 신호단절 없이 연속적인 수심측정이 가능하며 등수심도와 등고선 제작에 정확한 위치를 결정할 수 있고, 음향측심기는 발사파와 수신파의 도달시간을 측정하여 수심을 관측할 수 있기 때문에 실시간으로 정확한 3차원 측량이 가능하다. 본 논문에서는 해안지역에 대한 지형 분석을 하기 위하여 기준점에 대한 정지관측을 실시하여 좌표변환계수를 산출하고, 이로부터 실시간 동적 GPS 측량과 음향측심기를 이용하여 해운대 해수욕장과 해안을 관측하였다. 1:1,200 축척의 수치지도에서 추출한 수치표고모델에서의 체적은 $97953.9m^3$이며, 실시간 동적 GPS와 음향측심기를 이용하여 추출한 수치표고모델에서의 체적은 $95994.9m^3$로 나타났다. 이는 수치지도에서의 체적과 측량결과의 체적이 단지 2.0%정도로 나타나 실시간 동적 GPS와 음향측심기의 결합에 의한 해저수심측량이 매우 성공적임을 알 수 있었다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2010.05a
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• pp.2038-2042
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• 2010

본 연구는 동해안 속초항에 정방형 직교격자체계(Regular Grid)와 직교-곡선 격자체계(Orthogonal Curvilinear Grid)를 이용하여 SWAN 모형에 적용시켜 각 격자체계에 따른 파랑변형의 특성을 비교하는데 목적이 있다. 본 연구결과 북방파제가 연장 중인 방파제 선단에서 회절현상이 관측 되었으며, 속초 해수욕장 인근에서의 해안선 형상에 따라 굴절 효과로 인하여 입사 파랑의 벡터들이 해안선에 수직하게 입사되는 현상이 관측 되었고, 특히, 조도 주변에서 파랑의 굴절 효과와 차단효과를 관찰할 수 있다. 정방형 직교 격자체계와 직교-곡선 격자체계의 계산결과는 유사하나 직교-곡선 격자체계가 해안선에서 보다 정밀한 계산 값을 얻을 수 있었다. 하지만 직교-곡선 격자체계는 계산시간이 최소 4배 이상 증가하는 단점을 가지고 있다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.226-233
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• 1994

The present paper considers the method to estimate the bottom friction driven by waves and current on rough turbulent flow. Parameter adjusting technique is suggested for the computation of bed shear stress driven by uni-directional flow. and the value of parameter is determined by comparing the computational results against Bijker's laboratory data. For the computation of combined flow bottom shear stress, two methods are presented; one is the modified Bijker approach (BYO Model) and the other is the modified Fredsoe approach (FY Model). both of which are refined by the present writer. Both models are again refined in two aspects, and tested against the Bijker's laboratory data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.206-216
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• 2017

The temporal distribution of the turbulence kinetic energy (TKE) and the vertical component of Reynolds stresses ($-{\bar{u^{\prime}w^{\prime}}}$) was measured during one wave period under high wave energy conditions. The wave data were obtained at Hujeong Beach in the east coast of Korea at January 14~18 of 2017 when an extratropical cyclone was developed in the East Sea. Among the whole thousands of waves measured during the period, hundreds of regular waves that had with similar pattern were selected for the analysis in order to give three representing mean wave patterns using the ensemble average technique. The turbulence properties were then estimated based on the selected wave data. It is interesting to find out that $-{\bar{u^{\prime}w^{\prime}}}$ has one clear peak near the time of flow reversal while TKE has two peaks at the corresponding times of maximum cross-shore velocity magnitudes. The distinguished pattern of Reynolds stress indicates that vertical fluxes of such properties as suspended sediments may be enhanced at the time when the horizontal flow direction is reversed to disturb the flows, supporting the turbulence convection process proposed by Nielsen (1992). The characteristic patterns of turbulence properties are examined using the CADMAS-SURF Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) model. Although the model can reasonably simulate the distribution of TKE pattern, it fails to produce the $-{\bar{u^{\prime}w^{\prime}}}$ peak at the time of flow reversal, which indicates that the application of RANS model is limited in the prediction of some turbulence properties such as Reynolds stresses.

• The Journal of Engineering Geology
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.137-153
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the possibilities of identifying and detecting underground cavities using seismic waves recorded by the fixed and mobile stations. During 18 months of field work we recorded chemical explosions near the Bongdarn station. Seismic Stations were installed on the free surface and underground inside the Samba mine. The seismograms at the fixed(lorg-term) seismic station show abrupt change of polarization characteristics which can he associated with the appearance of P-to-S converted phase(PS) at 150 ~ 200 msec after the first P arrival. This result indicates that converted phases are generated very near to the Bongdarn station at a depth of 190m. Shear-wave splitting phenomena have also been observeci The time delay between fast shear(fS) and slow shear(sS) waves ranges between 30 and 60 msec(average is 42 msec). However, exact time delay between the fast and the slow shear waves can not be accurately measured because of the very short time delay and limitation of sampling rate. Chemical explosion experiments were recorded at stations along various paths to contrast the seismic response of areas with and without cavities. The seismograms recorded at the stations installed at cavity areas show an abrupt change of polarization characteristics but not on the other stations. Seismic waves propagating through the cavity are characterized by the attenuation of high frequency waves and predominantly low frequency seismic waves after the S wave arrivals.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2018

This study was conducted to observe the effects of gravity and infra-gravity wave of detached submerged breakwater in the coast of Yeongnang-dong, Sokcho, as analyzing continuous wave data by performing field observations on the front area (W0) and rear area (W1, W2). Wave transmission coefficient ($K_t$) of submerged breakwater was analyzed in two parts, short-period wave (gravity wave) and infra-gravity wave. The wave energy reduction effect was analyzed and compared with the value of the design. In case of above wave height 2.0 m at the front area (W0) of the submerged breakwater, the short-period wave height at point W1 is reduced by about 65% and the short-period wave height at point W2 is reduced by about 59%. The depth of crest of submerged breakwater conducted in a sea area differs from the design, and the wave energy reduction effect is analyzed to be smaller than the design plan. The infra-gravity waves were amplified to 2.11 and 1.71 at the W1 and W2 points, respectively, and the wave height at W2 point was smaller than that at W1 point.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.51-64
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• 2002

To investigate long-period wave responses in Sokcho Harbor and Cheongcho lagoon, field measurements were made for long-and short-period waves and current velocities using a Directional Waverider, a ultrasonic-type wave gauge, four pressure-type wave gauges, and a current meter. From the data analysis, it was found that the Helmholtz resonant periods of Sokcho Harbor and Cheongcho lagoon are about 13.6 and 54.5 minutes, respectively, and the dominant period of wave induced current in the passage between Sokcho Harbor and Cheongcho lagoon is about 55.2 minutes which depends on Helmholtz resonant condition of the Cheongcho lagoon. It was also found that the energy level of the far-infra-gravity waves during storm conditions is very high compared with that during calm sea conditions. To investigate relationships between far-infra-gravity waves and short-period waves at offshore station, regression analyses were carried out especially for 1) heights, 2) periods, 3) direction and height, 4) height and period between short-and far-infra-gravity waves, respectively. The results showed that the long-period wave height is highly correlated with the short-period wave height. However, no special trend was found for the other relations. In the future far-infra-gravity wave heights on return period around Sokcho Harbor region can be suggested by using extreme value analyses of long term measured data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.574-585
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• 2007

To analyze the incident wave characteristics around Haeundae beach the long-term deep water wave data computed by wave hindcast method were used and a continuous wave observation was carried out for 1 year at the 20 m of water depth in front of Haeundae beach. Wave observation data showd that the prevalent wave direction was SSW-S in spring and summer seasons while E-SE in autumn and winter. A numerical modeling shows that the waves from E-SE are refracted strongly due to the shoal developed at the south-east side of Haeundae beach. The simulation also shows inflowing nearshore current along the east coast of the beach develops strongly in autumn and winter. Radioactive isotope tracer experiment for 155 days indicated that the tracers moves to the on-shore direction in the 1st and 2nd tracking then dispersed to the E-W direction along the shore.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.252-261
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Kong-Rey incident on the south coast of Korea in 2018 are conducted using the JMA-MSM weather field provided by the Japan Meteorological Agency, and the calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the south-east coast. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys operated by the KHOA (Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency) and the KMA (Korea Meteorological Administration), and the data observed at AWAC stations of the KIOST (Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology). Additional simulations are also performed based on the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by the JTWC (Joint Typhoon Warning Center) of the United States, and the results are compared and analyzed. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.