• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.246-255
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• 1996

A mild slope equation of parabolic type is derived with the revision of the 2nd order differential term and a new approach for the application to large area is presented. The replacement with long waves can overcome the numerical difficulty due to small waves over the system of large grid sizes. No matter how long the replaced wave length is, the refraction and shoaling are maintained by toeing its own wave speed and group velocity, respectively. However, the diffraction effect is modified by means of Eikonal equation. The developed numerical model was applied to the shoal of Ito and Tanimoto (1972) to yield the satisfactory results.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.5B
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• pp.559-573
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• 2008

In this study, we newly proposed 3-D nonlinear wave driver utilizing the Navier-Stokes Eq. the numerical integration of which is carried out using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics), an internal wave generation with the source function of Gaussian distribution and an energy absorbing layer. For the verification of new 3-D nonlinear wave driver, we numerically simulate the sloshing problem within a parabolic water basin triggered by a Gaussian hump and uniformly inclined water surface by Thacker (1981). It turns out that the qualitative behavior of sloshing caused by relaxing the external force which makes a free surface convex or uniformly inclined is successfully simulated even though phase error is visible and an inundation height shrinks as numerical simulation more proceeds. For the more severe test, we also simulate the nonlinear shoaling and refraction over uniform beach of wedge shape. It is shown that numerically simulated waves are less refracted than the linear counterpart by Hamiltonian ray theory due to nonlinearity, energy dissipation at the bottom and side walls, energy loss induced by breaking, and the hydraulic jump occurring when breaking waves encounter a down-rush by the preceding wave.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1996.10a
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• pp.156-161
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• 1996

컴퓨터의 공학적용과 더불어 천해파의 산정은 파향선식(Ray Equation)에 근간을 두어 격자상에서 이를 산정하는 방법이 이용되어 왔는데 수심이 복잡하여 파향선이 서로 교차되는 경우, 파의 중복에 따른 영향이 반영되지 못한다. Dobson이 제시한 모형이 이러한 파향선법중에서 가장 보편적으로 적용되어 왔다. 이러한 한계를 극복할 만한 접근이 꾸준히 전개되어, Berkhoff (1972)에 의해서 완경사 방정식이 유도되기에 이르렀고 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사등 파랑의 제 현상을 반영할수 있는 모델이 수립되기 시작하였다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.254-258
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• 2003

파도가 심해역에서 천해역으로 들어오게 되면 천수, 굴절, 회절 및 마찰손실 등에 의하여 급격하게 변이한다. 따라서 수치모형의 격자는 해저지형 및 파의 변이 정도에 따라 상당히 작은 크기를 사용하여야 하는데 대개 100 m 내외가 되며 때로는 10 m까지 상당히 작은 크기의 격자를 사용하여야 하는 경우도 있다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.134-137
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• 1998

항내의 파랑장을 구하는 것은 항만설계상 중요하다. 요즈음에는 많은 경비와 노력을 요하는 수리모형실험대신에 다양한 수치해석이 행하여 지고있다. 그러나 회절 및 다중반사, 굴절 등 복잡한 파의 변형을 표현할 수 있는 수치해석 방법으로 여러 가지가 제안되어 있지만 아직 충분한 수준은 아니라고 판단된다. 등수심에 대해서는 이미 확립되어져 있는 Green함수법을 변수심장에 응용하기 위해서 변수심장에 대한 점원파(source waves)의 기본해(unit solution)를 구하는 것이 본 연구의 목적이다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.119-125
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• 2008

The aim of this study was to determine the characteristics of wave transformation in the shallow water of the Nakdong River estuary due to variations in air pressure, air temperature, wind speed, and wind direction. We analyzed the correlation between weather factors and wind waves in offshore regions near Geoje Island and the Nakdong River estuary in April and May 2007. The weather and wind wave data were obtained from the automatic ocean observation buoy near Geoje Island operated by the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). For the estuary region, the wind wave information was the result of field observations, and weather data were obtained from the Busan Meteorological Station. Field observations of water waves in April and May showed that the maximum wave height decreased by about 2.2 m. M oreover, wave height decreased significantly by about 1.3 m due to the reduction in wave energy caused by the water waves propagating from Geoje buoy to the Nakdong River estuary. We conclude that offshore or wind waves coming into the Nakdong River estuary showed considerable height variation due to the prevailing weather conditions, especially wind speed and direction. In particular, headwinds tended to decrease the wave size in inverse proportion to the wind speed.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.619-633
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• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.47-57
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• 2010

Subgrid scale stabilization method is applied to Woo and Liu(2004)'s extended Boussinesq FEM numerical model to eliminate the 2dx wiggles. In order to optimize the computational efficiency, Hessian operator is introduced and the matrix of velocity vector is combined to one matrix for solving matrix equations. The mass lumping technique is also applied to the matrix equations of auxiliary variables. The newly developed code is applied to simulate Vincent and Briggs(1989)' wave transformation experiments and the results show that the numerical solution is almost wiggle-free and it matches very well with experimental data. Due to improvement of computational efficiency and wiggle reduction, it is plausible to apply this model to a realistic problem such as harbor oscillation problems.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 1996

The waves are most important dynamical factors for the analyses of structural stability and topographical changes on coastal engineering field. However, wind-generated waves are very irregular in shape and transformed through refraction, diffraction and shoaling when they propagate into shallow water where bottom topography and water depth vary significantly. Recently, Vincent and Briggs (1989) reported hydraulic model experiments for the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound. They concluded that for the case of combined refraction-diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular wave conditions can be vastly different. On the irregular wave transformation have been made theoretical and numerical studies for several years. Although theoretical and laboratory studies on wave transformation have progressed considerably, field measurement and comparison of numerical results with related theories are still necessary for the prediction of the phenomena in reality. In this study, field measurement of both incident and transformed waves in Youngil Bay were made using various kinds of equipments, and numerical computations were made on the transformed frequency spectra of large waves propagating over the shoal using Chae and Jeong's (1992) elliptic model. It is shown that this model results agree very well with field data, and thus the applicability of the model is now validated.