• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.209-229
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• 2001

Simultaneous field measurements of short-period and long-period waves were made at five stations inside or outside Okkye Harbor, which is located in the east coast of Korea. Based on the measured data, spacial and temporal variations of the long-period wave energy were examined. Three smoothing methods were examined for the spectral estimates: fixed interval averaging method, incremental interval averaging method, and moving averaging method. It was shown that a proper smoothing method should be chosen depending on the period of first resonant mode and the length of data being used. By comparing the results obtained using the long-term data with those obtained using two-day data, we showed that it is necessary to analyze the data of calm seas and storm seas separately. The Helmholtz resonant period in Okkye Harbor was found to be about 9.6 minutes with its relative amplification ratio of 9 to 10, and local amplifications were apparent at the periods of 1.2 to 1.3 minutes and 0.7 minute. During calm seas, both at the harbor entrance and inside the harbor the energy of the waves of 9 minutes or longer period was larger than the infra-gravity wave energy by more than 100 times. However, during storm seas the energy level was very high all over the period band, and local amplification was larger than that during calm seas by more than 100 times, especially inside the harbor, Finally it was shown that the energies of the Helmholtz resonant mode and the infra-gravity waves of 1 to 2 minutes are proportional to the storm wave height.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.37-46
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• 2000

한반도 주변해역은 고조위와 태풍의 내습에 의한 강한 파랑으로 특징지워진다. 저조위때에 나타나는 1700$\textrm{km}^2$에 달하는 갯벌로 이루어진 서해안과 황해 동쪽 지역의 해안의 조건은 경기만에 l0m 범위의 높은 조위 차와 동계 계절풍과 태풍으로 인한 4-5m에 달하는 높은 파고를 발생시키는 고에너지와 높은 탁도 환경을 만들어 내는 매개체가 된다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.240-244
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• 2003

파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사를 예측하는 수학적 모형은 크게 두 가지 유형으로 나눌 수 있는데, 첫 번째로 파형경사인 ha(k：파수. $\alpha$：진폭)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하는 Stokes 파랑식이 있고, 두 번째로 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh를 분산성의 매개변수로 하는 천수방정식(Shallow water equation)이 있다. 파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절만을 예측하고 회절, 반사를 예측하지 못하는 수학적 모형으로는 에너지 이송방정식이 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.297-304
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to observe the applicability of parabolic mild-slope equations allowing relatively large angles of wave propagation based on the use of a Pade approximant or minimax approximation and also the applicability of the models with nonlinearity of diffracted waves in the shadow zone behind coastal structures. To accomplish these objectives, numerical solutions are obtained from the above parabolic models and are compared with the results from Watanabe and Maruyama's(1984) hydraulic model test on the wave field with an impermeable detached breakwater. From this study, it is found that computed wave heights increase for the nonlinear results in comparison to the linear results due to the increased diffraction effect across the geometric shadow boundary. The model with a larger aperture with respect to the principal direction was found to spread laterally to a much greater degree where spreading angle (diffraction effect) is relatively large. which causes a distortion in the overall results due to the error accumulated by the approximation of wave length.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.397-407
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• 2016

The traveling waves of the left and right of the detached breakwater are bent behind the detached breakwater by diffraction, causing phase interference, superimposed and propagated. If the direction of the waves becomes same and they head to the entrance of a port due to the geographical conditions, superimposed wave energy could influence inside of a port. In this study, we investigated the influence of the phase difference of the left and right diffraction waves generated according to the length of the detached breakwater on the wave heights in a port through numerical experiments when the detached breakwater at a port entrance is installed. From this result, it was confirmed that the wave heights in a port is increased or decreased by the influence of superimposed caused by the phase difference of the left and right diffraction waves due to the length of the detached breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.153-165
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• 2018

In this study, the performance of irregular wave field generation of olaFlow is first verified by comparing the frequency spectrum of the generated waves by the wave-source using olaFlow and the target wave. Based on the wave performance of irregular waves of olaFlow, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters, which act as the main external forces of the salient formation, are numerically investigated. The numerical results show that as the gap width between breakwaters decreases, the wave height in the center of the gap increases and as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.165-172
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• 2021

Breaking wave is one of the important design factors in the design of coastal and port structures as they are directly related to various physical phenomena occurring on the coast, such as onshore currents, sediment transport, shock wave pressure, and energy dissipation. Due to the inherent complexity of the breaking wave, many empirical formulas have been proposed to predict breaker indices such as wave breaking height and breaking depth using hydraulic models. However, the existing empirical equations for breaker indices mainly were proposed via statistical analysis of experimental data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this study, a new Munk-type empirical equation was proposed to predict the height of breaking waves based on a representative linear supervised machine learning technique with high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification challenges. Although the newly proposed breaker height formula was a simple polynomial equation, its predictive performance was comparable to that of the currently available empirical formula.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.165-173
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• 1987

A numerical model is presented that predicts directly the wave angle and height at every point on the grid. The governing equations used are conservation of waves equation and conservation of energy equation which are derived from the basic linear potential equations by means of an asympotic approximation. Finite difference methods are used to solve the governing equations and the solution is obtained for a finite number of rectilinear grid cells that comprise the domain of interest. Model results are compared with the results obtained from wave ray methods and it shows no significant differences between two results. The model is especially efficient for modeling large areas of coastline with arbitrary bathymetry, and therefore it is anticipated to be used in many coastal engineering problems such as littoral drift problems.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2018.05a
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• pp.197-198
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• 2018

In recent years, diversified demand for marine utilization has been increasing not only through the development projects for the utilization of the conventional coastal zone but also by the development of marine leisure sports and marine energy. It is very important to understand the characteristics of blue for safe and economical utilization of the ocean. Using the observed wave data, we derive the wave parameters to represent the irregular sea state proposed in the previous studies and examine the relationship between them to confirm the characteristics of the ocean wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.583-588
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• 2008

Swell data observed in the East Sea in February, 2008 were analyzed using wavelet method. The wavelet analyzed results show detailed time series variation of wave group, peak frequency and spectrum. The comparison of time averaged wavelet spectrum with fourier spectrum turn out to be very similar in terms of spectrum shape and peak frequency evolution but the peak frequency wave energy and the significant wave height show discrepancies. Wavelet analysis can detect the change of spectrum in time as well as in frequency and very efficient to study transient and irregular phenomena such as freak waves and abnormal swells in the ocean. More analysis with more wave data are needed for future application.