• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.259-271
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• 2019

A statistical downscaling method was adopted in order to establish the high-resolution wave prediction system in the East Sea coastal area. This system used forecast data from the Global Wave Watch (GWW) model, and the East Sea and Busan Coastal Wave Watch (CWW) model operated by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). We used the CWW forecast data until three days and the GWW forecast data from three to seven days to implement the statistical downscaling method (inverse distance weight interpolation and conditional merge). The two-dimensional and station wave heights as well as sea surface wind speed from the high-resolution coastal prediction system were verified with statistical analysis, using an initial analysis field and oceanic observation with buoys carried out by the KMA and the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA). Similar to the predictive performance of the GWW and the CWW data, the system has a high predictive performance at the initial stages that decreased gradually with forecast time. As a result, during the entire prediction period, the correlation coefficient and root mean square error of the predicted wave heights improved from 0.46 and 0.34 m to 0.6 and 0.28 m before and after applying the statistical downscaling method.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.110-114
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• 2010

A data set of current, wind and wave height measured at the monitoring buoy and sea level at Busan harbor were analyzed to explain the physical conditions during the strong rip current events at Haeundae Beach of Suyeong Bay during 13~15 August 2009. Tidal current, with spring-neap variations, has similar average speed to the short-term non-tidal currents. The common features at the time of rip currents are the strong northeasterly wind and superposition of tidal and non-tidal currents both flowing toward the coast. However on 14 August when the rip current did not occur, tide and wave height were similar to the rip-current cases but the tidal and non-tidal current were to nearly opposite directions. While strong winds produce large waves thus the basic condition for rip current but its influence on the local circulation in the bay is relatively small. Of the three adjacent beaches, only at Haeundae the rip currents are reported. This difference may be due to the unique bottom topography featured by underwater hill in the central region off Haeundae which can decay the incoming waves, tides and currents to intensify the rip current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.147-153
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• 2013

There exist various types of the WEC (Wave Energy Converter), and among them, the point absorber is the most popularly investigated type. However, it is difficult to find examples of systematically measured data analysis for the design of the point absorber type of power buoy in the world. The study investigates the wave load acting on the point absorber type resonance power buoy wave energy extraction system proposed by Kweon et al. (2010). This study analyzes the time series spectra with respect to the three-year wave data (2002.05.01~2005.03.29) measured using the pressure type wave gage at the seaside of north breakwater of Hupo harbor located in the east coast of the Korean peninsula. From the analysis results, it could be deduced that monthly wave period and wave height variations were apparent and that monthly wave powers were unevenly distributed annually. The average wave steepness of the usual wave was 0.01, lower than that of the wind wave range of 0.02-0.04. The mode of the average wave period has the value of 5.31 sec, while mode of the wave height of the applicable period has the value of 0.29 m. The occurrence probability of the peak period is a bi-modal type, with a mode value between 4.47 sec and 6.78 sec. The design wave period can be selected from the above four values of 0.01, 5.31, 4.47, 6.78. About 95% of measured wave heights are below 1 m. Through this study, it was found that a resonance power buoy system is necessary in coastal areas with low wave energy and that the optimal design for overcoming the uneven monthly distribution of wave power is a major task in the development of a WEF (Wave Energy Farm). Finding it impossible to express the average spectrum of the usual wave in terms of the standard spectrum equation, this study proposes a new spectrum equation with three parameters, with which basic data for the prediction of the power production using wave power buoy and the fatigue analysis of the system can be given.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.135-145
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• 2020

Wave observation is widely used to direct observation method for observing the water surface elevation using wave buoy or pressure gauge and remote-sensing wave observation method. The wave buoy and pressure gauge can produce high-quality wave data but have disadvantages of the high risk of damage and loss of the instrument, and high maintenance cost in the offshore area. On the other hand, remote observation method such as radar is easy to maintain by installing the equipment on the land, but the accuracy is somewhat lower than the direct observation method. This study investigates the data quality of MIROS Wave and Current Radar (MWR) installed at Dokdo and improve the data quality of remote wave observation data using the wave buoy (CWB) observation data operated by the Korea Meteorological Administration. We applied and developed the three types of wave data quality control; 1) the combined use (Optimal Filter) of the filter designed by MIROS (Reduce Noise Frequency, Phillips Check, Energy Level Check), 2) Spike Test Algorithm (Spike Test) developed by OOI (Ocean Observatories Initiative) and 3) a new filter (H-Ts QC) using the significant wave height-period relationship. As a result, the wave observation data of MWR using three quality control have some reliability about the significant wave height. On the other hand, there are still some errors in the significant wave period, so improvements are required. Also, since the wave observation data of MWR is different somewhat from the CWB data in high waves of over 3 m, further research such as collection and analysis of long-term remote wave observation data and filter development is necessary.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.869-875
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the long-term wave characteristics and tendencies of coastal waters near Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling. Wave hind-casting modelling was performed with a wind data set from ECMWF (2001~2014), which provides data from 1979 to the present. The results of numerical modelling were verified with observed data collected using wave buoys installed by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) in offshore waters. The results agreed well with observations from buoy stations, especially during event periods such as typhoons. The quantitative RMSE value was 0.5 m, which was significant. Consequently, the results of a wave tendency analysis for 14 years (2001~2014) showed an increased appearance ratio for waves of more than 2 m in height at all regional domains. The mean appearance ratio was 0.082 % per year, which implies that coastal waves have been increasing continuously. This coastal wave tendency analysis data can be used to evaluate coastal vulnerability due to recent climate change and the design of coastal erosion prevention structures.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.291-302
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• 2015

The seasonal variations of sea surface winds and significant wave heights were investigated using the data observed from the marine meteorological buoys (nine stations) and Automatic Weather Stations (AWSs) in lighthouse (nine stations) around the Korean Peninsula during 2010~2012. In summer, the prevailing sea surface winds over the East/West Sea and the South Sea were northerly/southerly and easterly/westerly winds due to both of southeast monsoon and the shape of Korean Peninsula. On the other hand, the strong northerly winds has been observed at most stations near Korean marginal seas under northwest monsoon in winter. However, the sea surface winds at some stations (e.g. Galmaeyeo, Haesuseo in the West Sea) have different characteristics due to topographic effects such as island or coastal line. The significant wave heights are the highest in winter and the lowest in summer at most stations. In case of some lighthouse AWSs surrounded by islands (e.g. Haesuseo, Seosudo) or close to coast (e.g. Gangan, Jigwido), very low significant wave heights (below 0.5 m) with low correlations between sea surface wind speeds and significant wave heights were observed.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.517-524
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• 2022

This paper analyzes wave measurement using X-band navigation (ship) radar, changes in radar signal due to snowfall and precipitation, and factors that obstruct wave measurement. Data obtained from the radar installed at Sokcho Beach were used, and data from the Korea Meteorological Administration and the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency were used for the meteorological data needed for comparative verification. Data from the Korea Meteorological Administration are measured at Sokcho Meteorological Observatory, which is about 7km away from the radar, and data from the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency are measured at a buoy about 3km away from the radar. To this point, changes in radar signals due to rainfall or snowfall have been transmitted empirically, and there is no case of an analysis comparing the results to actual weather data. Therefore, in this paper, precipitation, snowfall data, CCTV, and radar signals from the Korea Meteorological Administration were comprehensively analyzed in time series. As a result, it was confirmed that the wave height measured by the radar according to snowfall and rainfall was reduced compared to the actual wave height, and a decrease in the radar signal strength according to the distance was also confirmed. This paper is meaningful in that it comprehensively analyzes the decrease in the signal strength of radar according to snowfall and rainfall.

• Journal of Korean Society of Disaster and Security
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.19-31
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• 2023

According to the climate change scenarios, the intensity of typhoons, a major factor in Korea's natural disaster, is expected to increase. The increase in typhoon intensity leads to a rise in wave heights, which is likely to cause large-scale disasters in coastal regions with high populations and building density for dwelling, industry, and tourism. This study, therefore, analyzed observation data of the Donghae ocean data buoy and conducted a numerical model simulation for wave estimations for the typhoon MAYSAK (202009) period, which showed the maximum significant wave height. The boundary conditions for wave simulations were a JMA-MSM wind field and a wind field applying the typhoon central pressure reduction rate in the SSP5-8.5 climate change scenario. As a result of the wave simulations, the wave height in front of the breakwater at Sokcho port was increased by 15.27% from 4.06 m to 4.68 m in the SSP5-8.5 scenario. Furthermore, the return period at the location of 147-2 grid point of deep-sea design wave was calculated to increase at least twice, it is necessary to improve the deep-sea design wave of return period of 50-year, which is prescriptively applied when designing coastal structures.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.251-261
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• 2007

The wind-wave interaction around the Kyung-gi Bay, Korea, was studied using the observed data from ocean buoy at DeuckJeuck-Do from Jan. to Dec., 2005, and from waverider data at KeuckYeulBee-Do on Mar. 19-26 and May 23-28, 2005. Wind-driven surface waves and wave-driven wind speed decrease were estimated from the ocean buoy data, and the characteristics of wave spectrum response were also investigated from the waverider data for the wave developing and calm stages of sea surface, including the time series of spectrum pattern change, frequency trend of the maximum energy level and spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range. The wind speed difference between before and after considering the wave effect was about $2ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.1Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $5-10ms^{-1}$ and about $3ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.4Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $10-15ms^{-1}$. Correlation coefficient between wind and wave height was increased from 0.71 to 0.75 after the wave effect considered on the observed wind speed. When surface waves were generated by wind, the initial waves were short waves about 4-5 sec in period and become in gradual longer period waves about 9-10 sec. For the developed wave, the frequency of maximum energy was showed a constant value taking 6-7 hours to reach at the state. The spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range varied with an amplitude in the initial stage of wave developing, however it finally became a constant value 4.11. Linear correlation between the frictional velocity and wave spectrum for each frequency showed a trend of higher correlation coefficient at the frequency of the maximum energy level. In average, the correlation coefficients were 0.80 and 0.82 for the frequencies 0.30 Hz and 0.35 Hz, respectively.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.273-283
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Bolaven incident on the west sea of Korea in 2012 are performed using the JMA-MSM weather field provided by the Japan Meteorological Agency, and the calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the various coasts of Korea. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys operated by the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency and the Korea Meteorological Administration. Additional simulations are also performed based on the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by the Joint Typhoon Warning Center, and the calculated results are compared and analyzed. The waves and storm surges calculated using JMA-MSM wether field agree well with the observations because of the better reflection of the topography and the pre-background weather field. On the other hand, the calculated results based on the weather fields produced using the JTWC best track information show some limitations of the general trend of the variations of wave and surge heights. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.