• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.32 no.11
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• pp.841-852
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• 2023

In this study, the significant wave height and wave period of a specially designed observation system that connected two drifting buoys to an ocean data buoy was observed for 23 days from February 7 to 29, 2020, and the results were compared and analyzed. The results indicated that, in comparison to the ocean data buoy, the drifting buoy exhibited greater variability in significant wave height over shorter time intervals. The wave period of the ocean data buoy also appeared longer than that of the drifting buoy. The greater the observed significant wave height and wave period from both the ocean data and drifting buoys, the more pronounced the differences between the two observation instruments become. Moreover, the study revealed that the disparity in observation methods between the ocean data and drifting buoys did not significantly affect the significant wave height characteristics, as long as the period remained unchanged for up to half of the observation time.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.65-71
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• 2014

In recent years, strong typhoons have passed South Korea almost every year and severe damages were incurred directly and indirectly. However, instances where wave and wind data were procured from the offshore approach path of the typhoon are very rare and thus researchers are experiencing difficulties in obtaining calibration and verification data of typhoon-generated wave modeling. This paper provides a synthesis of records of observations by the Korea Meteorological Administration and Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology on storm waves generated by the typhoons SONGDA, NABI, and SHANSHAN that passed from 2004 to 2006 in order to help researchers interested in typhoon-generated wave numerical modeling. Although the trajectories of typhoon NABI and SHANSHAN were east of the Korea Strait, a significant wave height of 8.3 m was measured at Namhyeongjedo located east of Geojedo. Moreover, an unprecedented significant wave height of 12.2 m was measured for both typhoons at a station 1.4 km away from Yeongil Bay breakwater. Meanwhile, a comparative analysis of data obtained with a ocean data buoy at Geojedo and a Directional Waverider at Namhyeongjedo showed maximum wave heights that were similar but considerably different significant wave heights.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.135-147
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• 2023

Satellite-observed significant wave heights (SWHs), which are widely used to understand the response of the ocean to climate change, require long-term and continuous validation. This study examines the accuracy and error characteristics of SWH observed by nine satellite altimeters in the North Pacific and North Atlantic Ocean for 25 years (1992-2016). A total of 137,929 matchups were generated to compare altimeter-observed SWH and in-situ measurements. The altimeter SWH showed a bias of 0.03 m and a root mean square error (RMSE) of 0.27 m, indicating relatively high accuracy in the North Pacific and North Atlantic Ocean. However, the spatial distribution of altimeter SWH errors showed notable differences. To better understand the error characteristics of altimeter-observed SWH, errors were analyzed with respect to in-situ SWH, time, latitude, and distance from the coast. Overestimation of SWH was observed in most satellite altimeters when in-situ SWH was low, while underestimation was observed when in-situ SWH was high. The errors of altimeter-observed SWH varied seasonally, with an increase during winter and a decrease during summer, and the variability of errors increased at higher latitudes. The RMSEs showed high accuracy of less than 0.3 m in the open ocean more than 100 km from the coast, while errors significantly increased to more than 0.5 m in coastal regions less than 15 km. These findings underscore the need for caution when analyzing the spatio-temporal variability of SWH in the global and regional oceans using satellite altimeter data.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.4B
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• pp.243-251
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• 2012

To investigate the characteristics of rip current occurring at Haeundae beach, observations obtained from a buoy and a CCTV were analyzed and numerical experiments were conducted. During observed rip-current events, the CCTV images showed that a couple of wave-trains, which are close to regular waves with slightly different directions, propagated to the beach, and wavelet analyses of data from the buoy showed very narrow-banded spectra with a peak frequency. From the evidences, it was inferred that a known mechanism of generating rip current due to the nodal line area of honeycomb-patterned wave crest was one of the significant factors of rip current occurrences of Haeundae beach. The mechanism has been explained by the following: When two wave-trains with slightly different directions propagate to a beach, wave crests of the incident wave-trains form honeycomb pattern due to nonlinear interaction. The nodal lines of honeycomb pattern are developed in the cross-shore direction. And longshore currents flow toward the nodal line area which has very low wave energy. Consequently their mass flux is expelled through the area toward the sea direction. To confirm the generation, numerical experiments were performed using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. In the cases with two incident wave-trains with slightly different directions and with a monochromatic wave propagating over a submerged shoal, it was seen that the honeycomb pattern of wave crests was well developed, and thus rip currents were evolved along the nodal lines.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.177-185
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• 2012

Wave field measurements were made over a period of 18 days to study the spatial distribution of incident wave on seaweed tarm field around Gumil-up Sea, Wando, Korea. These measured data were compared with data from the Geomun-do ocean weather/wave observation buoy. A numerical simulation model that combined the offshore design wave with the seasonal normal incoming wave was used to study the incident wave distribution surrounding a seaweed farm. The results are summarized as follows. (1) On-site wave measurements showed that the major relationship between maximum and significant wave height was $H_{max}=1.6H_{1/3}$. (2) Offshore incident wave energy reaching the coast was greatly influenced by the wind direction. A north wind reduced the incident wave energy and a south wind increased it. (3) The calculated maximum wave height under the design wave boundany conditions was in the range of 4~5 m and the reduction in the incident wave height ratio ranged from approximately 38.1% to 47.6% at Gumil-up Sea. Under normal wave conditions, the maximum wave heights were 3.6~4.0 m in summer and 2.3~2.7 m in winter while the reduction in the incident wave height ratio was about 41.8% to 49.1%. (4) The sea state in the southern area of Gumil-up was the most affected by ocean waves, whereas the sea state in the northern area was very stable. The significant wave ratio in the south was about six times that in the north.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.303-314
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• 2022

The persistence analysis of marine physical environment factors is a basic analysis that must precede the use of sea areas as an analysis required in the coastal engineering such as downtime and design. In this study, the persistence analysis was implemented for wind speed and significant wave height data from four observation points of Deokjeokdo, Oeyeondo, Geomundo, and Geojedo among the marine meteorological observation buoys of the Korea Meteorological Administration. The persistence time means the consecutive time of observation data beyond specific level. The threshold wind speed and significant wave height were set in the range of 1~15 m/s and the range of 0.25~3.0 m, respectively. Then, the persistence time was extracted. As a result of the analysis, the persistence time of wind speed and significant wave height decreased rapidly as the reference value increased. The median persistence times under the maximum reference thresholds were assessed as a maximum of 5 hours for wind speed and a maximum of 8 hours for significant wave height. When the reference wind speed and significant wave height were 15 m/s and 3 m, respectively, the persistence time that could occur with a 1% probability were 52 and 56 hours. This study can be expanded to all coastal areas in Korea, and it is expected that various engineering applications by performing a persistence analysis of the metocean data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.252-261
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Kong-Rey incident on the south coast of Korea in 2018 are conducted using the JMA-MSM weather field provided by the Japan Meteorological Agency, and the calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the south-east coast. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys operated by the KHOA (Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency) and the KMA (Korea Meteorological Administration), and the data observed at AWAC stations of the KIOST (Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology). Additional simulations are also performed based on the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by the JTWC (Joint Typhoon Warning Center) of the United States, and the results are compared and analyzed. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.391-405
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• 2015

A global tsunami prediction system was suggested for a distant tsunami using a finite fault model and a cyclic boundary condition. The possibility of the suggested system as a distant tsunami response system was checked by applying it into the case of 2014 Chile tsunami. A comparison between the numerical results(tsunami height and arrival time) with different conditions (boundary condition, governing equation, grid size and fault model) and measured data (DART buoy, tide station) showed the importance of the finite fault model and the cyclic boundary condition.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.465-480
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and the wave induced by the Typhoon Sanba incident on the south coast of Korea in 2012 are conducted using the JMA-MSM forecast weather field, NCEP-CFSR reanalysis weather field, ECMWF-ERA5 reanalysis weather field, and the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by JTWC. The calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbors along the coasts of Korea. For the waves the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys and the underwater pressure type wave gauge. As a result the JMA-MSM and the NCEP-CFSR weather fields give the highest reliability. The ECMWF-ERA5 gives in general surge and wave heights weaker than the measured. The ECMWF-ERA5, however, reproduces the best convergence belt formed in front of the typhoon. The weather field obtained using JTWC best track information gives the worst agreement.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.240-252
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• 2005

The relationships between wave and wind around the Korean Peninsula have been analyzed with the data from the buoys moored at five stations (Dugjug-do, Chilbal-do, Geomoon -do, Geoje-do, Donghae) by Korea Meteorological Administration. Generally, the relationship between wave and wind is the highest at the stations in the West Sea and the lowest at the stations in the South Sea, and the middle at the station in the East Sea. The characteristics shown at each station are as follows. Highest wave is developed at Chilbal-do with strong northwesterly wind in winter because the sea is opened in the wind direction and wave is amplified by shoaling effect. At Chilbal-do, wave directions coincide with wind directions relatively well. On the other hand, waves are not fully developed at Dugjug-do in winter due to limited fetch since the sea is blocked by Hwanghae-do in the northwest direction. The limitation in fetch is more serious at the stations in the South Sea. In the South Sea, the direction of dominant northerly wind is blocked by land so that wave heights are small even with very strong northerly wind. In the South Sea, whatever wind direction is, waves dominantly come in the direction from the East China Sea, which are from the south at Geomoon-do and the southwest at Geoje-do. At these directions, waves are coming even with weak wind. At the station in the East Sea, waves are highly developed due to vast area, but not so high as in Chilbal-do because wind and wave directions do not coincide in many cases. As shown, wind direction is important in the wave development as well as wind speed. The reason is that the fetch is determined by wind direction. In the case of long-lasted wind with fixed direction at Chilbal-do and Dugjug-do, wave directions are well coincident with wind directions and wave heights increase with response time, which is the duration between the highest wind and wave. However, in the case of disagreement between wind and wave directions at the station in the East Sea, wave heights do not increase as highly as at Chilbal-do and Dugjug-do in spite of strong wind and longer response time. The results show us that waves are highly developed with strong wind, long fetch, and long duration, and also show that wave development ratios are different at different stations due to environmental factors such as the direction towards sea or land, bottom topography, and the scales of adjacent seas.